Just wanted to let everyone know this trans that Marshall has been building and making videos showing us all how it’s done, I went up to his house yesterday and we installed the transmission in my 94 lightning it works perfect, when Marshall was test driving it he gave it about half throttle and on the 1-2 shift the truck went sideways when it shifted, this truck finally has the right transmission it deserves, from now on Marshall is the only guy who touch any of my transmissions from now on , Thank you Marshall for taking the time to make my transmission work flawlessly, I’m looking forward to dry weather so I can test drive this bad boy.
Yeah man that was good stuff ! No adjustment needed as of yet. Hard to tell with that truck on wet roads though. Once it started boosting and making real power the tires let loose for sure. Keep us posted when you get the FULL road test in the books !
Wouldn't be easy I'm sure but could you list the kits that you purchased for the rebuild? I'm trying to make a little girls dream come true with a beautiful Powerstroke and being a single mom I have no option but to do the work myself... With the generosity and patience that you and Marshall have provided I know I can do this!
@@mebusy2280 I purchased the transgo tugger kit and the rebuild kit was from trans tech I also put all new steal planets (4pinion and 6 pinion ) except the low reverse planet is still aluminum, you can do this pay close attention to all the bearings and thrust washers, I had built this trans but I missed two bearings and almost destroyed it, thankfully Marshall worked his magic and saved most of it , the trans is awesome now
Marshall. I owe you a beer if I ever meet you buddy. Just drove my 1995 F150 around town and she is shifting great! Couldn’t have done it without your videos. I made a mistake of flipping a valve around in the main valve body but I stopped after a few miles and went through the valves and solenoid pack again just to make sure. She’s all good now! Thank you brother. I appreciate the videos that you’ve made. Couldn’t have done it without you
Love it! Your WelcomeYeah it’s all about paying close attention to detail! I have put some valves in wrong before as well, It’s just a hard lesson we have to learn sometimes. Glad it all worked out and your on the road and shifting proper is all that matters! Thanks for the comment.
I just finished building my first e40d with a tugger kit. Your videos were instrumental part of successfully completing the work correctly the first time. Thank-you for the 1st class information.
Awesome! Very glad to hear it worked for you. The first time down the road stories are the best. I do my best to get proper information out there just for that reason. Thanks for the comment.
Aw dang sorry to hear about the first attempt, I guess that’s first hand experience in how important every detail is. Happy to hear you figured out the problem and have it all corrected now! That is a lot of weight my friend but sounds like she did well. 160 degree temps are just fine especially when towing you must have a good sized cooler on your rig. I would recommend manually shifting gears when towing that much as well. Thanks for the comment !
Probably one of the best transmission related videos on RU-vid. Really enjoyed learning about the design and the advantages of the shift kit. Thank you for sharing this information!
This is a very well put together video! I have been studying it as I am in the middle of rebuilding my diesel 4r100 and I gotta say this is definitely the video im choosing when I install the transgo kit. This will be the first time ive ever done one of these transmissions so it goes with out saying im nervous about it but I feel all that much more calm all thanks to this man. Thank you!
Love it ! Thank you for the kind words, my videos are a bit long winded but it’s for a reason ! I do my best to not leave anything out because all it takes is one thing to mess up a rebuild! Happy Building ! You got this Like and “Subscribe” by the way
fantastic job of explaining the fundamentals of how the accumulators work and definitely appreciate the tip on no reverse if bolts and or gaskets installed incorrectly. looking forward to acquiring more tips and knowledge from your videos. I appreciate your time and patience in sharing your experience. never realized the importance of how the valves are supposed to move so freely.
Yes Sir ! Appreciate the Comment, quite a long video but Everything is important when it comes to “Getting it Right” in transmissions. The Devil is in the details ! You Clearly are paying attention and that’s all that matters. Good Stuff my friend !
я думаю это лучшее описание работы гидравлики 4r100 и набора Tugger kit. спасибо! i think that is a best explanation of how hydraulic logics works in this transmission and tugger kit! thank you sir! и привет из России! hello from Russia!
Love your videos so much information I’ve rebuilt a E4OD on my brothers 93 E150 van and one in my 92 F150 and a 4R100 in my 2001 F250 diesel 4X4 using tugger kit years ago I wish I’ve seen your videos before I did my rebuilds Keep up the good work 👍
After all these videos on the e40d/ 4r100 if anyone still couldn’t build this trans then they just aren’t cut out to build transmission’s, just awesome videos on this trans. So glad you took the time to do this thing Right, tell Marshall sorry about the delay on his El Camino I’ll make it up to him, this trans is going to be perfect
All good man! This thing is right and the road test will prove it tight. Let’s just keep moving forward and make it happen! No worries on the trans I have had SO many transmissions kick my butt around the block that it is what it is. Some easier some harder but the outcome is always the same,”Right and Tight” and good to go ! Just have to get the El Camino off the lift and we’ll R&R the trans here. Should be pretty cool !
Thank You really appreciate the comment. It seems you saw I corrected myself at 58:30 in the video on the plate being backwards. You-Tube doesn’t allow corrections once the video is published! Happy building my friend!
Got a chuckle on this comment from the transmission guy: "I don't pull it down at 60 miles an hour or anything, but I'll use my engine braking to slow my truck down all the time, even if I'm not Towing something. That way, I'm not wearing my brakes out as much." I'll choose to wear my brakes before my transmission any day. Brakes are easy and cheap to change. Same on my manual transmission cars. I'll brake before downshifting to slow down. Syncros are not expensive, but a PITA to change. I only use downshifting to slow a vehicle on long downhills so I don't overheat my brakes.
All good man we all have different driving habits ! I have always used my manual downshifting capabilities since I was a teenager. When a person has to slam on the brakes to avoid collision/animal/ RED LIGHT just ahead downshifting actually gives me not only braking Control but the Transmission Control as well. If done PROPERLY it doesn’t hurt the transmission at all. I have a 2020 Chevy “Trail Boss” with 25 k miles on it. It has a brake pad wear indicator on the dash display that says 92% Rear brake left/ 89% front pad left. If the calculations are correct I’m looking at 200k on a set of brakes And the way I drive even towing I expect 200k out of the transmission as well 🤞! We’ll see how that plays out but I’m confident !Good Stuff thanks for the comment
@@marshallsanders5672 Yes Marshal. I have not pulled it yet. 1997 Ford F250 7.3 and I just ordered a BD torque converter and stage 4 kit. Hoping that should do it. Was having a code said overheat the odd time. Then it would shift like BANG. I have change the tranny fluid and filter two times. It on ly has 140000 kms. I live in Terrace BC. I am 76 but don’t look it or act it. You remind me a lot of myself when Iused to be on the bench. Thanks a super bunch for taking the time time teaching these videos. I have spread my knowledge as much as I could.
@@garrydoney5333 Awesome I love hearing comments like these ! Many reasons for overheating but the less obvious one is the SONNAX Pressure regulator valve 36424-04K which ensures Adequate fluid pressure and volume to the torque converter and cooler at all times. My " pump from hell" video and the "TCC/PWM explained" video covers just about all you need to know about this transmissions particular characteristics and what they need to survive as far as hydraulic issues. Check them out if you want to know more about this ! Happy Building my friend, Your only as old as you feel and sounds like you have made it happen in your life. NOTE: The banging usually happens when the computer sees certain codes and it puts it into high line pressure/limp mode so as to not burn itself up which in turn causes it to "BANG" or shift very hard if that makes sense.
Marshall - I am writing in hopes you can help. The picture you see by this comment is my hubby of 26 years. A month ago, he decided to pull the transmission apart on our 7.3 diesel Excursion. It was having a problem (slow in forward, fine in reverse) and he had figured out the issue. Since he was in there, he decided to take the whole thing apart and give it a good cleaning. A week later he was in the ICU after a serious motorcycle crash and is still there today, only semi-conscious with a severe brain injury. Long story short...I have lots of friends who are mechanically inclined, but nobody knows where he was in the process. I know he was watching your videos, but again, not sure where he was. If I send photos, could you help me figure out the next step? Once I know where we're at, I think I can find enough help to put it back together again. Thanks in advance, Robyn
Robyn, Oh man that’s not good news! I hate hearing about motorcycle accidents for obvious reasons. I will help you any way I can. Send me as many detailed pics of where he’s at and I’ll let you know. My email blows up whenever I put it out there so please respond asap so I can pull it down once you email me! It’s the only way to get me pictures. overdriven67@hotmail.com PS where are you located at?
@@marshallsanders5672 I've got the email. I'll take pictures in the morning. We live in Washington state near the Olympic Penninsula (across the water from Seattle). Thank you SO much in advance for your help. I'm willing to try to do it myself if I have to, but I just need the coaching to get it done.
Yep I wanted to do that but didn’t make it happen. We did tests but didn’t post it. P/90psi N/90psi D/90psi Reverse/120psi Man 2nd/100 psi Man 1st/110 psi These are all psi #’s at idle with no throttle applied to the best of my knowledge. Factory pressure regulator system should be around 55-70 psi at idle in park.
thank you so much for taking the time to film and post these, both you and your son videoing they have been a life saver. one thing I didn't see you cover is the tugger kit comes with a different style seal for the direct apply piston,im assuming because it ups the pressure? either way do you think it is important to change it? I had my trans all together before noticing it was in there and am wondering if its worth taking apart to upgrade it?
Yeah that outer direct piston seal they change to a “d” ring instead of a lip seal. I have never put that “d” ring in any of my builds. I just don’t deem it necessary to use it. I have never had a problem or a comeback related to that seal so I just use the factory lip seal! Either way it’s a preference thing and not necessary to use. It doesn’t raise pressure it’s just a somewhat stouter seal but like I said I’ve never had a problem just using the factory lip seal. Thanks for the comment!
40:25 you talk about flexing. There may be a reason for this - when you have a flexing part, there is always a rebound and this will additionally fasten the pressurisation of the circuit - important to not let the clutch slip too much after it begins to couple and create the back pressure.
Im going to be rebuilding my 4r100 for my 99 f250 and will be using your build series as a reference. I do intend to haul heavy loads such as my 5th wheel and maybe a tractor in the future. Would you be willing to cat about parts and upgrades you recommend for a towing/hauling application.
Austin, There are quite a few upgrades to do on a 4R100 for heavy towing. Quick list, Borg Warner or better clutches such as Alto, Kolene steels, H/D 45 element 2nd sprag, 6 pinion front and rear planets. Also you can add an extra clutch in the forward and direct packs for more torque and load capacity. Transtar sells a thinner direct pressure plate to add an extra clutch, and remove the wave in the forward to add an extra clutch. At least a steel O/D planet 4 or 6 pinion, Transgo "Tugger" Kit a must, Center support snap -ring upgrade a good idea, Sonnax Line to Lube "pressure regulator valve" a must, Tig welded Coast Clutch Drum if you want it bullet proof, NEW Pump Gears, 1 piece case bushing and most likely all new bushings, Spiral O/D snap ring, H/D Coast Clutch Drum snap ring, Aluminum Front Lube Drainback valve a must, H/D external transmission cooler a must, High quality converter a must and PWM delete to ON/OFF Transgo Lock-up valve" recommended. Set up ALL clutches on the "tighter" side of the spec to avoid delayed engagements. A lot of it comes down to a "Rock Solid" rebuild (all parts new or like new condition, bushings/bearings/cleanliness) These are great transmissions when rebuilt properly.
Nice that is reassuring yourself for sure. I’ve never done that but I’m an ADD/OCD type person so I ALWAYS torque…..let it “SOAK” / gasket compression for 5 or so minutes then go back and recheck ALL my bolts ! Good Stuff thanks for the Comments !
You are great at explaining in layman terms, embarrassing question to you is when I’m towing my 14,400lb trailer with my 2000 f350 7.3, I just leave my overdrive on all the time, the only time I turn it off is to down shift to slow down. I’ve had people tell me not to tow with it on? Am I hurting the transmission?
That is a really good question actually. When towing you should turn off O/D for a few reasons. The main reason is with O/D cancelled the Overrun clutch comes on which helps protect the small/ vulnerable overrun roller clutch in the overdrive section. When you take off in O/D the roller clutch has to hold all the weight of the truck/trailer which puts a lot of strain on it. With the O/D cancelled the overrun clutch comes on so now you have the roller clutch and the overrun clutches themselves taking all the weight. Second the computer raises line pressure slightly to help hold the clutches on tighter beings your in a towing situation. Lastly O/D is the hardest gear to hold the clutches on so you should keep it off most of the time and just turn it on when there isn’t a lot of strain on the drivetrain meaning when your on flat road and just cruising. Your friends come correct on this one! The biggest thing with towing is the driver behind the wheel and just being mindful of how hard the transmission is working and manually shifting when necessary. My”importance of gearing” video talks about this a lot. Not my most watched video but some of the best information on this subject. When I talk about the low roller clutch/ low reverse clutches it’s the same concept as the O/D section in your 4R100. That is a LOT of weight so it would be advantageous to take off in manual low as well. Long answer hope I explained it well enough to understand it! Thanks for the comment!
Hey Marshall I have a 2002 4r100 that burnt the forward clutches out of it. Upon teardown I found it had 9 check balls like 95 and down E4ODs. The extra was in the trough that looks like a Christmas tree. The separator plate definitely wasn't set up to have a check ball in this location. I'm wondering if this starved the forward clutches of pressure. But I can't find any diagrams to validate my suspicions
Ethan, Interesting someone put that ball in there, upon a little digging I don't believe that has any correlation to the forward clutch feed circuit directly. It appears to be in the circuits of the Low/Rev. Modulator,3-4 shift valve area. When I am in question about something like this I always Try to follow where the fluid goes and see what passages they connect to following the circuit from the bathtub into the case and back up through the valve body and so on if that makes sense. Without having it in front of me I can't do that but if you go slow you should be able to determine the exact path of oil away from that trough. Definitely try to find the reason for the burnt Forward aside from the checkball missinstall though. Hard seals, Worn out forward piston, low fluid ? Let me know what you come up with and ill dig deeper if need be ! All the comments like these help other people with issues like this so its nice to see the resolve comments as well.
1200 miles on my rebuild. Thank you for all your info. How many miles should I put on trans before doing a flush and filter after rebuilding? I am thinking 2000 miles. What fluid do you recommend as my OEM manual says MERCON and ford no longer sells that? I used Valvoline DEX/MERC for initial fill.
Sounds like your good. If your confident you built it right and “nothing” is creating microscopic metal then your good for 20-30,000 k miles. If any doubt then service it like you said after 2000 miles and check the metal in the pan and on top of the filter, there will be metal it’s all about How much, and what type of metal you find. If it’s clean with minimal metal after 2000 k miles then you should be good to 50k. As far as the fluid goes just use a good newer synthetic fluid such as dex IV or Mercon V and your good there. The Valvoline Dex/Merc is fine !
Can you please do a video on how to understand the connection between the ECM to my e4od? My overdrive light stays on I have to basically floor the gas pedal to get it to move.. please and thank you
It is taking off in a higher gear. You need to check the codes in it the o/d light on is telling you there is a code the ECM. My Who’s in Control” video explains a good bit of computer to transmission relation
There you go asking the tough question! I have never used the TRANSGO Tugger kit before. I don’t like judging kits I don’t have Personal road miles experience with. I have always used a combination of superior and sonnax parts in all my units. Let’s just say I like to use the BEST specific parts those two companies offer and I have had great success with that. With that said the Tugger kit is a very well thought out kit with a few exceptions, I used the sonnax “line to lube valve” , the O/D metal lube relief valve in the stator, the reinforcement plates in the accumulator spring retainer clips, the 1 piece sonnax case bushing. ETC. which are all necessary parts in my opinion. so as you see in my opinion there is no best out there. I use the best of all the kit makers and kinda make my own if that makes sense. The Tugger kit at this point seems to be the best for towing and manually shifting though. With the additional other brand parts I mentioned. I hope that clarifies “My Opinion” for you. As you got the long answer on that one! Great question!
No Sir ! There is no special machining done whatsoever ! That’s the myth that’s being sold for hundreds of dollars ! Usually the accumulator spring upgrade to 3 or so springs and the Modulator boost valve .372 or .427 with “O” Ring is what Most of the companies are putting in and selling for 3-4-5 hundred dollars. Some may put in the Transgo accumulator transition valves but not totally necessary and or the Sonnax “Stiffining” plates between the transition valves and the accumulator piston but that’s it. I will usually go as far as flat sanding the valve body with 320 grit sandpaper on a flat piece of marble to ensure no cross leaks. And the #1 thing that MUST be done is completely disassembling that valve body and making sure the valves are “DEAD” free in there bores as I show in the video. That’s it !
I buy 90% of my parts through 3 different sources. Whatever It Takes transmission parts/ Transtar/ or PA Cargo in New York I believe is there main location. There is only 3 different ones for these transmissions. 89-94 early thick wall connector which has the diodes in the solenoid pack. 95-97 late which has a thin wall connector/diodes in the computer and not in the solenoid pack itself. These two packs have an On/Off lock-up solenoid which has a brown snout and ball pintle just like the shift solenoids. 98-up 4R100 has a PWM lock-up solenoid and has a white snout with three holes not brown with the visible ball pintle like the early On/Off solenoid. I explain this in both my solenoid pack test videos. The E4OD solenoid pack testing video and my 4R100 solenoid pack testing video.
Hello Mr Marshall thanks for taking the time to do such a great job with your work and showing others, i rebuilt my 1995 E4OD Transmission and when i put it in reverse it locks up and engine shuts off. What might be the problem you think, if you dont mind me asking Thanks
Herman, It is definitely the torque converter clutch applied because that’s the only thing that will stall the engine. With that said oddly enough the most common problem I’ve seen with that other than digging deep into the transmission is the filter falls down just enough to unseal completely from the pump intake causing it to suck air and not be able to RELEASE the Torque Converter Clutch properly. Do you have the correct filter? Is the filter in there ? As big of a part it is I have seen people just plain miss putting it in ! Even if it’s correct this can still happen. The fix for it is is PEEN some dimples in the pan to hold it UP in the pump. I would first pull the pan and see if the filter comes down with the pan or whether it stays in the pump. If all that is fine then it’s time to dig into the TCC hydraulic circuit and figure it out. TCCSolenoid stuck on/TCC apply valve in the pump stuck on/ bad Torque Converter etc. This should get you going in the right direction! Thanks for watching be sure to check out my TCC/PWM explained video as that video explains Torque Converter Clutch operation in Great detail !
@@marshallsanders5672 Mr. Sanders Thank you so much for your help, I pulled the pan and the filter was still in place i pulled the transmission back out and took it back apart one of the obvious things i seen is the forward clutches was burnt and the van hadn't left the lift yet. Could low fluid cause the lock up as well? i have never experienced this before. Thanks Herma
@@hermanjones4124 Herman, Yes low fluid could cause that also, TCC Release gets what you might say Priority after the Pump gears begin to pump and just after the pressure regulator gets fed oil is sent to the release side of the Torque Converter Clutch. If the pump is starving for oil similar to the filter not being in all the way the TCC Clutch doesn't release properly. Also what I've seen is usually the first clutch to burn up when the fluid is low on transmissions is the forward clutch so that would explain a lot ! Was the fluid low? Why was it low ? That's not making sense to me other than you just didn't put enough in. In a case like this I do my best not to assume anything and I would go through the Lock-up system VERY thoroughly . Including splining the input shaft down in the converter and making sure the clutch isn't STUCK ON Mechanically. The Input shaft must spin free of the converter housing ! It sounds like you have built a few of these transmissions ?
@@marshallsanders5672 Yes sir i have been building for some time now but very few E4OD trans, Also i mis counted my fluid level i think that may have caused my problem, in the mean time i will troubleshoot carfully while putting the trans back together. Thank you so so much for your help and your time as well!!!!
Please help!!! Tested my valve body with tips from your last video. All solenoids seem good mechanically and electronically. My O/D is in constant off, no light. 1st and 2nd manual are just one gear, (2nd I believe), and when in (constant) O/D, it’s stuck in 3rd. MLPS and TPS tested good. No broken wires in trans harness. Can you help me understand where to look?
Lots going on there. What year transmission is it. This is a case where you must scan it and read ALL that the computer is Seeing and attempting to do. MLPS,O/D cancel switch,Shift Solenoid activation meaning what gear is the computer commanding etc. The O/D light always off is a red flag for sure possible the switch itself is bad but must see what it’s doing by scanning it.
I already built in a sonnax performance kit. Does it make sense to make a "combination" with the main valve body modifications of the Transgo HD2 Reprogramming Kit? I am wondering if that would be a good idea. I just need the exhaust brake posibilities of the Transgo
Yes absolutely can be done that way. And definitely want to use it if your using engine braking and Manually shifting it ! I generally try to use best parts available by all the different companies for the application and if that means using two different companies products in the same trans to make it the “best” it can be So be it ! Also make sure it has the SONNAX Pressure Regulator Valve in it as well not sure if it comes in the Sonnax H/P kit
Marshall I'm rebuilding a e40d transmission and I'm vacuum testing the valve body. Do you have any personal specs for inches of mercury? Specifically low reverse modulator valve.
Nylon bore brushes are the best for sure! They don’t injure the bore and clean very well. A little trans fluid and spin the brush in the bore by hand. Also in serious situations I use 600 and 1200 grit sand paper wrapped around a screwdriver and spin in the bore with transmission fluid. It’s tedious but it works!
Great information on this transmission.I have this same transmission in my 95 e150 econoline van 4.9 engine.it has small problem in 1st to 2nd shift in auto. It's slipping just about 3 seconds then it's fine.I think it's in the accumulater valve body.am I right or wrong
You are absolutely right ! Put in a .372 valve because you probably have a .331 valve and just stronger springs in the accumulators and generally that corrects 75% of the shift “feel” issues with these transmissions ! As long as it hasn’t burnt the clutches already 50 bucks in the valvebody portion and fluid and filter your good for another 75k.
@@marshallsanders5672 thank you so much for responding fast.and thanks for information on my transmission.are you going to do a video installation on the truck and let us know how it drives
Yes what’s your email. Or I mention this in one of my videos you can go on AllData.com and pay a 1 time fee for full access to your truck. Meaning all repair data (wiring,hydraulic schematics etc.) which is what I would be emailing you.
They work great in that application. If yours is stock it might just need the accumulator valve body upgraded. Stronger 2-3 accumulator springs, larger modulator valve etc.
I just rebuilt an E4OD with an overdrive sprag failure. It had a superior shift kit. Now when I start it it will have 60lbs of pressure. It go to zero after running for about 30 seconds. Did I put a ball in the wrong place or you do think the pump is bad? I'm the Nissan mechanic that contacted you earlier. Thanks
Oh geez! Sounds like something in the pump (pressure regulator line up in particular) check ball location won’t effect line pressure. I’ll have to check hydraulic diagram for another possibility but most like in the pump for it going to 0psi.
@@marshallsanders5672 thank you Sir, i assembled my 4r100 at second attempt (first i had no oil pressure, missed orange spring at main regulator valve). Everything good, i pulled 9.5 tonn loaded trailer through the Ural mountains. That was not easy, but transmission fluid keep 140F, And couple times raised to 160F.
I am currently working on a project. Converting my 95 ford dually to 4x4. I was wondering instead of sourcing a used 4x4 transmission. Can i replace the out put shaft and outshaft housing on my 2wd e4od, to make it 4x4(mate to a transfer case? Or is there more involved?
Holy Smokes! Yur’ a Badass as far as I’m concerned 😎. Nope nothing special to do but change the output shaft and tailhousing to accept the transfer case! I converted a 1984 Chevy van to 4x4 in 1995 Awesome project and cut my teeth mig welding on that project! It’s a ton of work but really cool accomplishing that type of conversion. Keep us all posted on your progress.
@@marshallsanders5672 i was just reslizing it. I have to pull the trans out regardless, so ill rebuild it and convert the tail sharft. Most want at least $500 for a 4x4 trans. I found tail shaft and housing for under 200.
If your not in a hurry and search deals out there on the innerwebs you could probably score that output shaft and tailhousing for around $100. There’s no real difference in H/D ness of those two parts there all the same so just be patient to find it on the cheap!
@@marshallsanders5672 oh im not, im still in the planning stage. I like to get all my ducks in a row before i tackle a project like this. I learned my lesson from last time when you helped me with my trans on my other truck. I started working on it before i had all the parts.
Funny you mention that. I built a 4wd van back in 1995, Awesome project, took me 8mnths to build and learned how to actually weld on that truck. That is a tall order for anyone to take on. Not sure I would go there these days as time is difficult to come by. Loved the truck when I was finished though. There is pics of it in my welder video.
@@marshallsanders5672 lol that's awesome.yeah it is tall order to transform that van.I definitely appreciate you taking the time to respond on a Sunday.and I want let you know that your videos are awesome
Marshall, I’m trying to figure out if my PWM 4R100 tranny solenoid pack is working. Saw your video on the E4OD solenoid pack. But I have the PWM pack. Should the solenoid that controls the overdrive (white top) click like the others? I have a new rebuilt one and my old one and neither “click”. Should it actuate “click” like the other’s? How do I test that circuit?
Wayne The PWM sol isn’t spring loaded like the others so depending what position the pintle is in is whether you’ll hear a faint click or not. As far as testing it just cut a piece of hose just long enough to seal the entire snout of the solenoid and your air blower and test it like the others. Power to it and no Power to it and it should blow through and seal just like the other shift solenoids. I didn’t have a PWM sol. At the time I did the video and can’t go back and edit the video. Hindsight I should have talked about that more. My bad hope this helps !
@@marshallsanders5672 Thanks so much Marshall. I’m watching your Tugger Kit install vid as we speak. All your videos are super informative. One more question, have a P0741 and a pending P1744 on my 2003 F250 with the PWM 4R100. On the P1744, what is a CTO? Signal out of range? I’m subscribed so keep pumping those vids out man!
Wayne I am not sure what CTO is where did you read that ? I’ve never heard of a CTO or it’s signal being out of range ! Definitely Torque Converter performance/stuck off codes though!
@@marshallsanders5672 Yes sir. That’s what this crazy Innova/Zurich scanner tells me under the P1744 code above the TCC Solenoid Circuit Performance. Been trying to figure it out but but don’t know or can’t find out what a CTO is. Must be a glitch in the software. I’ll check it again with my small Alltell once I get the solenoid pack back in. 4R100 runs great in all gears but no overdrive. Appreciate your feedback.
Wayne, Yes this is where things can get confusing real quick ! It sounds like some kind of glitch and you seem to be UNDERSTANDING that fact and working the problem. It has no O/D or no TCC apply ? Very important to know what gears or TCC is the problem.
@MarshallSanderd, please correct me if I'm wrong but I have have been tring to find confirmation. My e4od with e9 valve body castings, will work properly with a f6 valve body casting as long as I use the f6 separator plate. As long as I use either all e9 valve bodies and plates or all f6 bodies and plates I should be good.......... correct????? Have been enabled to find this confirmed anywhere so far.
That is a good question! I’m not positive 100% sure about which castings will work/Not work with which plates . I’ve always just matched up what I had with what I’m replacing. Sounds like you have come across a trans that someone has swapped wrong parts out. I’ve always known 89 early/89 late, 90 to 95 and 96 up late E4OD/ 4R100 with a few variances with each of the 4. I don’t want to steer you wrong but it seems to me f6 bodies and plates will work together and f9 bodies and plates will work together as a general rule. What year trans are you building? I will do some research myself to get to the bottom of that one.
I'm building an e4od for a 1990 f250 5.8l. I have all the guts from a unknown year 4r100. The 1990 trans was a rebuild I bought 10 or so yrs ago. It had all 4r100 internals upon tear down exception being the thrust washer on the output shaft vs the bearing on 4r100 and the valve body and accumulator casting are an e9. While the diesel trans I have is a Virgin teardown all f6 castings case and valve bodies. I do see some differences in the channel casting of the 2 cases. I susspect the serperator plate and valve body are what account for these differences, as I also susspect all the aply and release passages are the same. I would like to use the f6 casting just because this trans was very clean and debris free all clutches, band and hard parts in excellent shape. My e9 casting has had a butt ton of metal and debris forced through it while I haven't found any valving to be in bad shape in either 1 I figure the e9 casting is the one worn the most.
@MarshallSander sorry to be a pain but I'm an engine and diag guy that's only been in a few c6, c4 and 727 so I yield the transmission knowledge to you sir.
No worries! As I know a ton of stuff about these transmissions I don’t know everything as everything is impossible so to speak. I am ALWAYS seeking to learn more so this is just something I haven’t learned YET is all ! I will let you know what I find. Also if you come across someone that does know everything your either being lied to or you e died and gone to Heaven where there is no need to build transmissions!
@@darrells4970 Ok from what I found your E9 castings and plates are from an 89 only trans which is specific to 89 case and must be used together. What will determine if you can use the Later F6 castings is the case itself. 90-up cases should work fine with your F6 valvebody castings and plates. You said you see differences in the case worm tracks. Bottom line is how many checkballs came out of the case ?
Hi to anyone who can help 99f350 4r100 ... Has a modded valve body to eliminate the mushy shifts... 2 to 3 upshift is harsh when on the gas say climbing a hill when you get to the top of the hill and it gets ready to go too 3rd it goes in way too harsh..bang....I sent the valve body back years ago and they softened 1 to 2 and 2 to 3...1 to 2 is fine now but 2 to 3 feels like its gonna break stuff. thx
Most likely not line pressure because the 1-2 is ok but can't rule out a pressure spike. Not knowing what they did to the valve body it probably just needs more tuning or detuning for that matter. I'm assuming you don't have a full shift kit meaning pressure regulator mods or any aftermarket tuners on this transmission? Tuning the accumulator valvebody is not an exact science and many times its just a matter of tuning it until you are satisfied with the shifts. The only 2 things internal to the transmission that effects shift feel is line pressure and the accumulator valvebody so its 1 or the other. Also assuming the clutch pack is in good shape as well.
My 4r100 never sees temps higher than 180, but this summer when i switch into drive from park and it doesn't kick in right away .its very delayed ifeel iits the fluid not building pressure quicm enough. Or not enough pressure. Any input would be appreciated thanks man
Well, a bit of a loaded question because there are so many things involved in diagnosing particular transmission problems! Is it just a forward delay? Once its in gear does it slip at all during take-off and or upshifting? Any difference in engagement when you cancel O/D Button and or pull it down into manual low? Any difference between being hot or cold? Putting a pressure gauge on and checking line pressure is a simple but all important test whenever a pressure issue is suspect (70psi at idle and should rise to 150 or so at full stall throttle in drive) Does the fluid smell burnt or is it discolored at all? A lot of transmission diagnostics comes down to a process of elimination because any one particular problem can be caused by multiple different reasons. Check all these things and write down the answers and go from there!
@@marshallsanders5672 thanks for responding back to my question, to answer , no it doesnt slip when shifting at all in any gears and it only is a delay to go into drive and it can do hot or cold , and my fluid has always been clean red since i bought it , it has a huge cooler somebody installed and a afe deep pan and then also a guage and unless the guage is wrong it has never got higher than 180 degrees . i drove to work this morn it always shifts like it should through all the gears i know it cant be 100% diagnosed by a couple question , just trying to see where to go from here , thanks!
Ok gotcha sounds like everything is normal as far as the trans possibly the forward clutches are a bit loose in there clearance. One thing you can do is remove the spring in the Forward engagement valve in the auxiliary valve body. I show this at about 17:30 min into this particular video! I remove the spring on All my E4OD/4R100 rebuilds to help with delayed engagements because these transmissions are known for delayed engagements. It is simple and effective might wanna give that a try first. @@user-ri9hb6th1w
@@marshallsanders5672hey thanks fkr the advice , i am definitly going to remove that spring for the forward engagement in aux valve body, and at the same time im going to change the trans filter and fluid, also put remanufactured solonoid valve body and a accumulator valve body with a sonax shift kit. With a little luck that might solve my prob . ill let u know how it went when my parts come and i install em . thanks again..!
@@marshallsanders5672 hey just and update here on my 4r100 , i got in there and i changed the accumulator valve body and put rebuilt one i had laying around for 7 yrs i got from dieselsite , i changed the trans filter , and then finnally i took to spring from the forward engagement out . got it all back together and i can actually feel all the shifts now and when i shift into drive i feel it right away and it doesn't feel sloppy anymore . so i wanted to say THANK U for your advice its definitely working like it should until i save the cash for a rebuild . THANKS!
Not completely there are mods in the pump but doing All the valvebody mods will help it tremendously without doing the whole kit and it’s perfectly ok to do so without doing the pump modifications.
@@marshallsanders5672 got it. I am taking the spring out of the engagement control valve. To my surprise I found two little plastic balls in the transmission pan 😟 I have no idea what they are, but I guess I’ll just take them out.
No don’t take them out they go up in the main valvebody you should be able to see the round pockets they go in. Just use Vaseline to hold them in place.
I replaced the disks. Every thing was fine but after about one km it stopped and only the reverse was working. Then I found the forward clutch housing broken I wonder what is the cause
If everything was fine and shifting properly might have just had a crack in the drum you might have missed ! Was the clutch burnt up when you originally tore it down ? Heat will fatigue a part. Was it shifting hard (high line pressure when it broke) did it break at the snap ring ?
I checked the drum before it was good no cracks. I think the cause is the high pressure of the oil. Is there a valve regulator of the forward clutch. Maybe it is stuck.
There is an engagement control valve that feeds the forward clutch But I take the spring out to get faster oil to that clutch. I show it on this video. It doesn’t regulate pressure though just volume of fluid. It just get direct line pressure which is normal. Just sounds like a fluke thing at this point. Was it shifting hard after the rebuild ? I’ve seen those drums break but only in Super Heavy Duty trucks and the cause was just abuse.
