Ali ... what I did was to run a thread inside the tail boom first (eg. a long flossing thread). If need be, I use a flexible wire to help push the thread through inside the tail boom. Then I tied the ends of the floss together, forming a circular thread. I can then still use the thread to tie the end of the wire and then pull the thread inside the boom. With that, I can easily pull all 3 wires, one by one, inside the boom by using the thread. Not too difficult.
A quick and easy way to tell if a shaft's bent is to slowly roll it across a reasonably flat horizontal surface (A piece of glass, Most mass produced floor tiles, Or even something like a laptop screen if you're careful) while pressing down gently about 1 to 2 centimeters in from one end. The surface doesn't need to be 100% perfectly flat, But the flatter the thing you choose to use is, the more obvious any bend in the shaft will be. You want to see if the other end lifts from the surface at any point while it's being rolled. For extra clarity you can shine a light behind it and see if the thickness of the line of light you can see under the shaft changes. I used to use this method to check if an RC helicopters main shaft was reusable after crashing back in the day. I had an A4 sized piece of 5mm thick black acrylic that I'd stuck to a piece of 20mm MDF just for this purpose. It worked great, And saved me a small fortune on my 450's because I was no longer replacing main shafts just because they MIGHT be bent. I even used this method to satisfactorily straightened a couple of main shafts on those occasions I didn't have anymore spare main shafts on hand. I'd test them, then mark the direction of the bend, Carefully tweak it slightly using a vice (With alloy blocks to protect the shaft) and an 24" (600mm) long bar that I drilled down the end to the same diameter as the shafts, then I'd test it again. If it was OK it would be refitted, If not I'd tweak it again until it WAS OK. Many a summer weekend of flying were saved by doing this when new parts were back ordered. :)
Hi Ali, thanks a lot for the video! May I ask, what is the dimension of the HEX driver which you used for tightening of the small ring on the main shaft? (18:35)
HI alish. I unfortunately found that there is no conical washer (between the rotor head and the Main Blade Clip) as an original spare part for the e160. Do you think the one sold for the xk k130 will work? Thanks in advance
Hey bub great video. I was wondering if you would have any input on why my e160 is not taking off the ground after mid stick it’s at like 3/4 stick be for it lifts off. I have crashed an rebuilt prb 6 times but this time it’s not taking off when it should any idea thanks bud
Check you pitch setup and pitch curves. remove motor cables so motor will not start and set your pitches right. if before same pitch setup has been working fine, that means when you repaired and assembled the main rotor head, you have moved the shaft down or up more than it was supposed to and that disturbed the pitches settings. you need to check your assembly again, connecting rods and their lengths if adjustable etc.
Hi Alishan ... I would like to ask what is the type and size of the screw head that you used to screw the ball joint to the swash plate at Minute 18 of the above video. I could not find the right screw type to remove or to screw ba k the ball joint. Is it a 0.9 mm hex screw head? My 0.9mm hex screw head is too loose to unscrew the ball link. Appreciate if you can let me know.
Ali ! I need your help brother. I’m about to buy a precision tork screwdriver kit but I’m in doubt. What’s the tork numbers used in this E160 ? T2, T1 🤷♂️?
I have had to replace the tail boom and disconnected the wires going into the board. It’s been awhile and cannot remember the order that the red,blue and black wires go into the board. Anyone have a picture or know the order?
Thanks so much for the video, very helpful. I have an E119, I control it really well it is not 3D. I want to move to a 3D helicopter. What do you recommend E160?
Hi. My E160 has a fault that makes my heli go into low voltage cutoff before it should, battery 90% charged. I have replaced the esc and still the same. Could it be a motor fault. Hope you can help.
Update my post. I have found it was my main pcb. The one your servos connect to was faulty. But now I can't switch back into 6g mode from 3g in flight. Does anyone know if I need to program the main board, and if so how?
