It stalls sideways because the wheels have stopped turning ! It’s lost its forward momentum, at low rpm you have practically no torque available from the motor, it’s not a diesel engine & you have a huge flat spot in the power.
It’s a traditional manual transmission. When the clutch is engaged you can’t just stop. I know he put that Revo transmission in but that doesn’t change the direct drive nature of the setup.
No, the carbs are losing their prime because there's no tank pressure. The diaphragm pumps on the carbs depend on intake pulses to function, and at high rpm the pulses are too close together to provide sufficient volume. That's why you have run a line from the muffler to pressurize the tank. This is done on a lot of RC planes as well for the same reason.
For curiosity sake since I'm not a mechanic or engineer or mechanically incline... would a check valve "back flow preventor" work similar to plumbing applications?
It would actually reduce the engine RPM; plus he's already burning out clutches on the flywheel he has, so this might not be a good idea. The comments above about pressurizing the fuel tank with the exhaust is probably an easier solution and won't require any additional modification. Seems to me like the system is losing fuel flow to the dual carb setup in a tilted position which is very indicative of low fuel pressure.
@@someonesomewhere_777 A heavier flywheel will not reduce engine RPM. It WILL slow engine response due to more inertia, which is why a lightened flywheel is a common performance modification. The downside to a light flywheel is a tendency for the engine to lose RPM quickly...sometimes so quickly that it dies. Which is what might be happening here. Slowing engine response will not hurt the clutch. If anything, it will increase clutch life due to more gradual changes in RPM. Johnny has a lathe and a mill - adding weight to the flywheel shouldn't be a big deal (if that in fact is the problem).
Same, he's very talented with everything he makes for these cars. The new engine he just showed, the orange one that made by a different company, seems like it would be way better in this.
The effort and determination of this guy is insane. Every time I see one of your video's in my for you page I don't even hesitate to click on them. I am proud to be one of your 1.87M subscribers!
I would love to see new rotors for the supercharger!! There's so many videos out there with little superchargers and turbochargers for micro engines like this and none of them ever work. it's so sad I want to see one that works. you can do it!!
If you think it’s fuel sloshing make baffles in the tank to reduce the liquid movement. And also the low rpm if you throw the drift tire with a plastic sleeve you can draw your conclusion of fuel loss and or rpm being to low
its been more than 2 years followed you and i'v seen this little thing grew and now its 90% finished i am so proud of you. gg and continue let's go to the 2mill
U could cut a two slots into the metal, to maintain balance of the clutch and into the friction material, and use two dowel pins plus a lil glue to keep it from delaminating!! Just a thought!! Keep it up, love the Vidz!!!!
Awesome video as always, Sir. Long time subscriber. As an American, I always love seeing a fire breathing V8, in any form. I hope you can get the blower figured out. Keep up the great work Mr. Q90!
My guess is rotor shaft flex and the tolerances of the supercharger synchro gears: -That tri-lobe rotor looks to be a 3D ratio, with 3 segments I doubt it has the rigidity to stay straight under boost. -The synchro gears would need to have insanely tight tolerances and sub tenth backlash to maintain the lobe seal with such small gears/rotors. Even operating with a wet seal design. -If you do decide to make your own rotors, may I suggest a helical tri-lobe.
I've been waiting for this video for so long and I'm glad it's finally here. But also I can see it needs some refinements in the power band, especially in the low rpm, knowing your potential it would be amazing to see you make turbos like you did for the twin cylinder 4-stroke, but have two different sized turbos and connect them in a compound setup so that way you can get the most torque down low and horsepower up high.
So exciting to see that beast off the chain and thrashing about! Just like any scratch built DIY project, things are going to happen. I have 100% faith that you will work out the bugs. Looking forward to the next update!!
i think part of the reason it stalls when u slide is causee the engine just doesent have enough energy to keep going when the wheels slow down after a slide. real cars do the same if u spin and dont disengage the cluch
It seems like there is a lot of hope for this project to actually come all the way through. Looking great so far and I can see it getting the last 25 percent improvement and then it probably will be the best rc car of its type on RU-vid. It starts, the throttle is responsive and its fast enough to warrant the effort.
It has a terrible understeer, the car doesn't want to turn. And if you apply too much power, it immediately oversteers. I suggest you check your differential (if exists) . This issue causes extra load to your engine and clutch while turning. The car came from a long way, and I love how you build it with great effort and create quality content. Keep on, friend across the pond!
Dry sump tanks in race cars are tall to prevent the oil pick up in the bottom from being uncovered. You need to do the same with your fuel tank; taller talk will prevent the pick up from pulling air. Great work!!!
I agree with a lot of these comments about the stalling issue. I’m leaning towards the idea that was mentioned about the clutch being still engaged while the car comes to a complete stop. That would definitely stall my car at least. That also probably played a roll in the clutch breaking. If it’s a fuel issue though, my suggestion is try a bigger fuel line, and a carb bowl if they don’t already have one. The bigger line will keep it from hydro locking, and the bowl will help with whatever air still gets through. As for the super charger I’m on team solid rotors lol. Those have to be one, solid, smooth piece to get rid of the slap. They have way too much wiggle being three pieces each. In other news; line lock? Totally unnecessary and would probably destroy the transmission but man would it be cool if it worked. Just sitting there roasting the tires and then turning it off and peeling away. As always, love the video. Keep up the awesome work, and I can’t wait for the next one.
Fantastic model !!! Can’t wait to see it with the supercharger working and a flat out run for top speed. Not much into drifting and burning up the tires. Would love to have one of these, first one I’ve seen with the actual engine being used in a vehicle.👍🏻
@JohnnyQ90 - just a thought: set up the throttle and clutch actuations on the same servo (or multiple servos from the same channel) - as you give it more throttle, the clutch starts to engage, and as you let off, the clutch disengages. This would take an incredible amount of fine tuning, but I’d imagine would work extremely well, but still provide that realistic functionality you’re looking for.
Sweet! So glad you're at the testing phase. I've been watching the build process and am REALLY IMPRESSED! I don't know if anyone has mentioned it yet or I may grant forgotten if you already thought about this, but have you implemented some runaway protection? You know, how to make the car stop if it loses contact with the radio while under full throttle. Always an issue with nitro RC cars.
The scoring on the inside of the supercharger housing looked like it was towards the center, so the rods holding the rotors might be bowing from a slight imbalance when they spin fast enough. Someone mentioned one-piece rotors, so that might help a rigidity issue. If that's what's actually happening.
So freakin cool bud. That definitely has some power. It sure is nice to have that starter on the remote. I used to have to run up and pull start mine lol. But it was also a 1 cylinder tiger 21 motor. I think thats what it was called. This is just too cool bud. Well done.
The comment about the tank needing to be pressurized is correct. They flow a lot of fuel at WOT, and the diaphragm pumps in the carbs can't keep up with it unless you have some tank pressure. You might look into sintered bronze for your clutch basket. The hotter it gets, the better it works. You may need a bit stronger return spring though.. Other than that, pretty good run for the 'first' time out!!😄👍👍
Johnny, on nitro engines, we have to apply pressure to the fuel tank via a line from the exhaust. The impulses form the exhaust muffler pressurize the fuel tank.This will keep fuel flowing to the carbs and prevent leaning out due to fuel slosh.
Hey, here's an idea. Keep doing what you're doing, as long as you are having fun. I enjoy watching a builder working things out and growing a skill set. Hopefully, some sponsors will help with more tools and connections to push you more. It was my first time watching you, and subscribing is not a question for me. Subscribed. It would be nice to see you in the comments if you have not already.
Amazing totally 👍 on board with your drive in making outer perfection on a machine that’s thrills the senses of WOWness in the ability to create kudos to you bro 🎉🎉🎉🙏👍
I can only imagine how long it took you from concept, to making this video of it driving. R&D is an unimaginably arduous task of success & failure, until you get to the point of consistant successive runs of pure V8 stomping runs of smiling, until your face hurts. Some people think making these "toys" is a waste of an adult's time, energy & resources. What low brain wattage floofs don't understand is, this is the very type of activity which gives some of us a reason to wake up on the weekend mornings. Never stop researching, developing, assembling, testing, & succeeding!
Also, it shuts off becasue you need a baffle in the tank(possibly even the carburetor bowls). The G forces involved in that turn are preventing fuel from feeding the carb.
I'd add a baffled fuel cell to the list too, maybe put some foam in there and or make something custom with a baffled swirl pot built into it, the sort of thing you see on drag cars. The sudden direction changes and inertia were visibly causing the fuel to climb up the side of the tank which as the fuel goes down are probably starving the feed line.
At first I was worried JohnnyQ90 wasn't devulging that he is sponsored by Toyan or Sterling Kit, and that he actually gets all these engines for free. You're supposed to let people know if you're sponsored. To be honest, though, I think these videos have made me want these small engines less and less the more of them I see. Imagine spending $1700 on this "supercharged" V8, plus everything else needed to get it to run (and even more if in an RC chassis), and the thing just breaks almost immediately because of terrible manufacturing and tolerances. I'll stick with enjoying watching someone else spend tons of money on getting them to work right.
I don't mind he's sponsored or not. I love the creative process in his videos. I think he does a great job. I love watching all of the unique machining parts and 3D printed parts. Those engines seem on the surface really awesome but I can tell they break catastrophically really easy, the tolerances in the machining process are probably not good at all even though it "looks" good. Being sold extra attachments like superchargers that actually hinder and hurt the motor instead of actually giving more power. You would have to have a bunch of expendable income and enjoy this as a hobby because these motors seem like they're really low quality and horribly made and unreliable.
Using the exhaust to pressurize the fuel tank is good. Putting partitions with small holes into the fuel tank might help with stalling when sideways. that way the fuel doesn't slosh around as much.
The stalling issue could be due to being lean on the low end mixture. Try opening the low end needles 1/8 each, test and repeat. Also it doesn’t look like you have the exhaust linked up to your fuel tank? Most glow engines have a back pressure line to the tank or even a pump with regulator. This keeps positive pressure in the fuel system. These are the first things I’d check, could also be stalling due to change in wheel speed. Transmission wise, you can get 3 speed setup with metal gears. That would be cool and probably last lost than your current gearbox. Keep up the amazing work 😊
I think the stalling is many things at the same time. - low torque at low rpm. You either need to have the clutch slip or do a burnout to maintain enough engine rpm. Your lose all speed forward which forces the wheels to stop. You don't have enough gears in the gearbox to help keep the engine rpm. - add some baffles in the tank - consider some exhaust to add fuel pressure. Great video. But maybe not so great for the supplier of the compressor. It did have issues even before you installed it, being silent in only one direction. They need to step up their manufacturing quality and testing.
stalling- could be fuel pickup location on your tank you are using, also can play with the length of the hose from the exhaust to the tank to help keep constant pressure in the tank.
It would be interesting to spin the supercharger at operating RPM without the engine, to see how much air it moves. I think these tiny engines are too small for forced induction to work properly. And I think the tolerances are probably just good enough for them to run, I think any substantial level of boost would bend things or just end up being lost as blow by. I'd love to be proven wrong, though. "2 Stroke Stuffing" gets an astounding amount of power out of a 50cc engine, but that's only one cylinder, and it's actually designed for vehicular use.
