I use two different cutting methods to cut a hole in porcelain tile around a toilet closet flange-- an octagon and a circle. Watch the video to see why one way is faster and easier than the other. Full demonstration and tutorial.
Isaac, put the guard back on that grinder, I have seen pieces break of those blades and fly straight at the person using the grinder. Had it happen to me, but the guard stopped the piece hitting my face. . I cringe when I see that.
I’ve had mine on for years. Recently took it off , but only because these blades won’t mangle your hand like a metal blade. That being said I never considered the blade breaking apart I may need to consider putting it back on.
Good vid. I know it's not part of your tile-cutting thing, but still worth mentioning something very important to the viewers. You have now raised the floor by the thickness of that tile. And a toilet flange must always sit ON TOP OF the finished floor. Therefore it is imperative to install a small flange extender (there are many kinds available) before installing the toilet.
That's not always true. I did a couple of American Standard toilet installations and quickly found that with the flange installed on the tile the toilet was actually a bit too high off the floor and needed to be shimmed up quite a bit all around to get it to not rock. I recently pulled one of those toilets and installed a new tile floor over the existing floor, and left the flange as is. The toilet now sits perfectly seals just fine.
As a plumber, you want the flange of the toilet on the tile, not same level of tile!!! This is the number 1 issue that renovators do, a classic bathroom remodel with no real plumbing change so a plumber isn't called in because there's nothing "complicated". The tile flange has to be minimum 1/4" above tile. The toilet wax is for odors, not water so what happens is the toilet gets installed and no water is noticed because no issue until 6+ months when the wax has worn away from the flushing and water starts to seep on the side and ruin the subfloor over time. Please, tile under the flange!!! Worst case with a plastic flange you can get a flange extension (not perfect but better than nothing). Remember, 1/4" minimum above tile to create proper toilet seal!
@Bryan Bolden not exactly sure what you're trying to say.... the flange of the toilet should be installed ON TOP of the tile, you never cut the tile to go at the same level as the flange... really not sure what you're trying to say but what I've explained is in every building code that exists, it's in all the literature that comes with every single single toilet you purchase. So, without having fully understood what you're trying to explain, I'll just leave it there.
@Bryan Bolden I'm a contractor, carpentry, but mainly plumbing and heating... when you're doing a job, the tile guy never thinks about the plumbing the way a plumber does, to do it properly, you need a plumber to REMOVE the toilet flange completely so that the tiles can be redone properly and only THEN does the plumber come back and install a flange. Every single time a tile guy who doesn't think twice about the plumbing comes, removes the toilet (because it's isn't rocket science) and then tiles, and then reinstalls it... every single time a plumber comes back 6 months later "my toilet is leaking... why?" because the toilet flange is not sitting high enough, the plumbing job was so tiny, the tile guy or handyman took it upon himself. When I worked for insurances, this was #1 problem for water damage. A simple retrofit/revamp renovation that turns into water damage in the future. And even now, I get a call at least once a week about a leaking toilet... THIS is the issue. I tell all my tile guys and other contractors to be mindful of this because I've dealt with it and continue to deal with it on a weekly basis!
@Bryan Bolden Michael Dubois is trying to say that the bottom of the flange (the lip) should be the same height has the bottom of the toilet IE the same height as your finish floor that the toilet rests on. This is to ensure a 360 degree solid seal against gas (and water) with a common wax ring. Rarely is that the case unless you plumber comes back through. It most definitely isn't the tile guys job. But the thing here is that there are flange extension kits and many different toilet sealers beyond a wax ring. Some of those various kits have extra pieces to add spacing just for recessed flanges. This issue might have been more true 20-30 years ago but this particular problem has come a long ways with easier solutions than resetting a flange. In new construction the plumber is supposed to know what the finished floor height is, set it and move on. The tile guy has little to do with drains. For the cheap man jumbo wax rings are a thing now days, they are much taller to accommodate for these common sorts of errors. Mike is right, this is super common in old houses, but it has been out thought a dozen different ways. Still it does need recognized if you are going to seat a toilet. Usually not the tile guy's thing.
Dude, your videos are amazing! I've been slowly going through all of them and I can't thank you enough for all your detail and most important....your honesty and integrity!!! It's very hard to find guys like you in any industry! Thank you for everything you do!!!
Isaac, tomorrow I will try to do the circle cut. Thank you for showing the way. You made seem simple. I know I will challenges but with the help of experts like you, it makes the job easier. One more time, thank you amigo
Thanks....you are awesome. I been in the floor industry for 16 years. Now i started doing showers and do them as you teach. Other tilers i know think they know it all and i can see all the corners they cut. Thanks to ur videos. I want to one day be able to do all that great work you do. I started doing residential carpet, then moved to commercial vct,lvt etc. But i enjoy shower work much more. Thanks again and keep up the good work👍👍👍👍 by the way i also want to add that you, sal deblasi and landberg tile are myrole models. I only do work as you guys show.😎
I just started watching your videos. With 45yrs exp. I must say you are awsome!!. Keep up all your good work. Want to note about not useing the gaurd. I know that there a danger with not having it on. But over the yrs its proven to only limit an get in the way of alot!! You should always with eye gear on, or a full face shield if concern about flying chips. Maybe you should do a video on the pros an cons on the gaurd.
I always tell my self I'm gunna stop trying to cut so tight around flanges and just cut octagons but I always end up wanting to cut a perfect circle it just feels better for my o.c.d lol
I started setting tile 20 years ago and used a grinder without a guard too. I put it back on after I nicked my finger and in the last 15 years I have not encountered a cut that I could not make because the guard was in place. So not using a guard is insane, yet many tile setters do it.
Hot tip from someone who just did it for the first time, while the octagon looks easier the circle is better because the tile is less likely to break. I broke 3 tiles doing the octagon then finally completed a circle with the same tool, same blade, same inexperienced me. I think it must be just a better shape.
I do almost the same thing. We keep one of those toilet flange blanks on our truck, so after we measure out the square we simply put the blank in the square, trace it and cut it out 1/8 larger than the blank. I can see how cutting the straight lines would be faster than grinding a circle. I’m going to modify my method mixed with yours next time and see how that goes
Thanks so much for making those mistakes, so we don't have to. Or at least not so often - I just spent yesterday tiling a shower surround, and today ripping it out 'cause the tiles weren't well bonded. But without RU-vid, and people like Isaac, I wouldn't even have been trying to tile my own bathroom. Lots of love, to all sharers!
Your the BOMB Tile Guy !!! I started out using a four and a half inch continuous diamond blade. Two times towards the end the tile cracked. I purchased a four and a half inch diamond mesh blade and I had absolutely no problems. Perfect circle on the first try. And yes I'm a rookie these are my first tile jobs in the house and I have two more bathrooms to go. Thank you much for your informative videos. No way I could do this job without some of the tricks and tips that I watch on your RU-vid videos !!! And I'll save at least $2,000 on three bathrooms versus hiring a Tile Guy like you. 👍👍👍👍. Thanks Again
Yes. That was an awesome idea I never thought to put those two together. By the way love that last bathroom you did. You just had to show off with them glow in the dark golf balls. Haha, LOL. Nice job, bro.
You could always use an old wet saw blade and just go a little wide on the pencil Mark.. Don't have to worry about the saw blade teeth getting in the way. But great idea nonetheless.
Isaac, I use a toilet flange that I bought just for this purpose a little over 3 years ago. I keep it with my tile tools and when I need to cut a hole for a toilet I locate where the cut out will need to be and use it to mark the tile. The octagon is a good idea too.
The octagon cut works just fine, so need to cut the circle. The octagon also generates less than half of the dust that the circle does. The octagon straight cuts also stress the tile far less so the chance of cracking the tile is minimized.
Awesome instruction for a middle-aged dude about to tile all kinds of rooms in the house. I have to say, the last two minutes need to be played in every high school orientation.
Hey Isaac new viewer on your page. I'm a general contractor in Washington State. Started seeing you use this product called Kerdi that I've never heard or seen before., Just use it on my first bathroom to do water testing. I am simply amazed and Blown Away by how easy the product is to use. Thank you for your time and advice!
Isaac - love your stuff. It's real. Don't let the trolls get you down. After watching you place the 7-1/4" blade and trace around it I wondered why you just don't first draw the circle and then use your speed square tangent (just touching) the circles at 45 degrees. You wouldn't have to measure out the 2- 3/4" (which theoretically is 3.003). Also like your cutting on the Kerdi - great idea. I hardly ever comment but the trolls were getting out of hand. Keep it up and thanks.
I've been doing this for almost 25 years now. I've never even thought about feeling the Octagon pattern and always went with the circle cut. Bro, you totally blew my mind with that shit. Thanks for the video and keep up the good work. I'm from Jersey. We don't do mud walls around here, LOL. Unless it's a super. High end job But it's a lost art and you have a gift my friend. God bless
Hi, you are a thorough professional and today you did say to get educated first and then find a trade. Education is very important to lead a life and a profession to live a life. Thanks
Thanks for sharing this video. It's helpful to see two different methods and then choosing what works best for us. I also liked the explanation of the grinder blade differences. Very helpful
Isaac that is so cool you use the circular saw blade to mark it. I always use the plastic covers that the blade comes in but never thought to use the blade itself. Thanks for sharing tile coach.
All these years of tiling and to use an old saw blade to draw a ragged hole, surely by now you would have had a simple circular template handy to draw a nice neat circle, especially if used repeatedly. But great videos and I love watching you work. I have to second the comments about the blade guard. A friend of mine lost an eye due to cutting tiles without a guard. Watching this practice makes ones bum fizz.
As a plumber, what we appreciate is that there is side to side support for the base of the toilet. The front and back could have large gap since it won't interfere with our installation. However, fill it so when the wax fails, the void doesn't fill up with water and get under the tiles.
Thank you for all your wonderful help. You have made my life easier. I am so happy to have found your channel. My nightmare bathroom project will turn out beautiful. Universe Blessings!
Good tips here. I prefer the hex cut method myself, unless the hole is less than say 1" from an edge. I may do a partial circle along that side so there is less chance for a break. Another tip, if I may... since the toilet flange is supposed to mount on top of the finished flooring (best practice is on top of the tile, not below or flush it as most people show), I cut my opening like you show and use some left over tile pieces to shim up below where the flange will sit. Just place the tile pieces between the screw holes when you place the tile and use grout to hold it place. Best to make sure you have grout under the screw locations and not the tile pieces or you will have "fun" drilling those holes. ;) Makes for very solid install and little chance for leaking. Another advantage is more grout coverage below the flange at those mount holes round the base you could silicon to make it basically water tight.
Most of the bathrooms I've tiled have been with smaller tile so I've only had to cut a few enclosed circles. I did it by using a sacrificial-wheel that had worn down almost too small to be useful but was perfect for cutting vertically around the perimeter of the circle. As respects a comment below, I've replaced many toilets and often the flange is screwed to the subfloor and not installed on top of the finished floor. Some of the homes I worked in were plumbed with cast iron and I'm not going to bother changing what I found. Double-stacked rings is a viable solution.
Great job I keep a new spare toilet flange in my van to make my toilet cuts or a paint can lid works also. But I like the octagon cut and it saves time too!
Metal toilet replacement flange covers are cheap and a great thing to have in your work trailer for a template. Then you can draw a perfect circle to cut. Great job and great video. You're killing the tile industry, Isaac.
Issac, FYI the Pearl p4 thin turbo mesh blade that you are using is not made for circular cutting. The manufacturer specifies that one should not put side pressure on this blade, and that it should only be used for straight cuts. Might be worth looking into this, having one of those blades explode when cutting out a flange wouldn't be fun.
I practically spent the bulk of my working day as your student. It is a pleasure having a Tile Coach like you, I have learnt quite a lot about tiling, from you Isaac. Blessings
This was so helpful! Thanks for taking the time to put this together for us! Also, really liked the comments at the end about working in the trades; so true that many of us can find satisfying work here and college followed by days behind a desk is not for everyone!!
That's funny. I too started from college 31 years ago and decided sitting at a desk was not for me. On topic I usually cut the circle. Have extra flanges in my plumbing supply box.
Soh two heavy weights of the tiling world have commented on your video Sal diblasi and landberg tile where is that Mr know it all 🌟 you know who I mean great to see fellow tile professionals taking an interest in each other 👍👍
Thank you for these videos! You are awesome at breaking things down for anyone to understand. I am remolding our 4ever home and will try this octagon cut. 👍🏼You always make tile work look so dam easy, which is a testament to your skill. Thank you again
Learning the circle is important for exposed drains. It doesn't really matter for under toilet but what does matter is code. Flange goes on top of finished surface.
I just used a compass and made three 7 1/4 inch cardboard circles. I only have three bathrooms to do is I'm not a professional but it's worked perfect so far and only took me 5 minutes to make them. 👍👍
I do commercial and residential tile in Austin Texas . I hate having to use the guard and the PPE with the grinder . Some U.T jobs seriously make you cover everything from ears to sleeves,with dust protection for everyone else there too,It’s ridiculous. I started using wet Hole saws with a hand drill and never looked back . The biggest hole saw I have is 5 1/2” . Even on cheap tile it cuts cleanly without breaking. There is also a diamond dry bit (looks like a cylinder) you can buy to make the hole bigger if needed . Highly recommend
Thanks so much for a very informative video. As a mature adult home owner, I learned a lot coming from the point of view of plumbing. (I am a novice plumber!)
The octagon cut is the winner and you explained it very well why. You are an excellent tile setter, installer and an excellent teacher. Congratulations!!! I am very glad you are on RU-vid.
I'm a framer. Every time I get frustrated at my job and take a step away to do something else because I think the grass is greener on the other side I last about a day until miss framing again. Some people are just built for specific jobs. As soon as you accept that and learn to deal with the fact that every job sucks at some point (multiple points) you will be much happier. Nice job on the tile. I'd probably go for the circle, because when you try to do everything totally perfect even your mistakes/ sloppy work (because we are human) are acceptable.
My husband has been tiling for 45 years. These thin mesh blades are a fairly recent innovation. Although very good because they create less dust they do tend to splinter quite easily, especially when cutting a radius. Also you can buy them quite cheap, which means guys are buying cheap but not great quality. I'm telling you now, he would NEVER use a grinder with one of these thin blades in without a guard. The only time the guard comes off is when polishing.
Hey great show. I think octagon shape for sure to save time for toilet purpose. Good to know how to cut circle too if you need to expose the the shape. I'm learning a lot from your videos. Thanks you.
They'll split finicky tiles a lot easier than circles will. If it's an easy tile to grind than go ahead, but if it's a tile that likes to split, hexagon holes suck.
@@Laking86erYou are right about that I cut many tiles both ways and it seems to me that the really hard tiles tend to split when doing plunge cuts with a wet saw or using a Makita for toilet flange cuts. Just from the sound of the cut it seemed that the tile was a little soft. But on the other hand he said it was from Italy which from my experience is usually very hard tile.
3 года назад
I love your channel and videos brother. I learn something handy, new or useful constantly to use for my daily work!!! Much love broski!!!
I never knew the mesh blade was better for circles. I always struggled some with a smooth diamond blade. Thanks. You know how many people's head you made explode by improvising with a old circular saw blade for a circle. Good job
I use regular diamond blades and never cut a circle like he did. I just use the grinder and trace out the circle with the blade more perpendicular to the tile. Then cut through in a couple spots, flip the tile, and finish the circle on the backside. Juist as quick as the octagon which i also do depending on mood.
Your youtube channel is very helpful. Thanks for doing these I am a DYI guy and without these my work would be subpar and you make my work look like a pro. Thank again. I did round and it worked like a champ. I would agree on the guard on the grinder makes it harder to see your work but I accidently slid my finger on the grinder wheel and as easy as it cuts tile it cuts skin like a hot knife through butter ;-)
Great video. Lol...been doing tile for 25 years and never did it that way. This old dog just learned a new trick. Edit: I should have been more clear. The new trick wasn’t drawing the circle, it was the use of the framing square to line up the tile on both sides.
Me too lol... I used to carry around an old 7 inch high hat rim To trace my toilet cuts out. I haven't found another one on a job site since so this Video was very helpful. Haha
@@bryceoliver8899 I used to carry a flange around for cuts when doing flip homes & commercial etc... been doing mostly residential now .., always one of those things I don't think about . So many trips to the grinder trying to eyeball it lol
I'd be happy with the octagonal cut but appreciate this video because I'm about to reno my bathroom. No toilet but the principal remains the same. I notice you did the first cut on the top side and to the lines, the underside sorts itself out
Thank you. Having to completely tear out the sub floor in my bathroom right now and this is just answer to the question Ive been asking my self all day. Think I’ll just leave a riser and put the flange on last.
It’s better to put the flange on last above the tile instead of cutting a hole. I wonder how many people cut out their tile after watching this video, anchored the flange down below the tile and now regretting it because their toilet sprung a leak.. Spacers work too in such a case too I suppose.
If you prefer to cut the circle, try sticking a steel flange repair ring in your tile tools to trace. I use a sharpie to trace it so I get that over all 7 1/4”. I’m definitely not a pro like Isaac, just a trick I’ve learned over the years. With that said, I think Isaac sold me on the octagon method.
The toilet flange is supposed to be mounted on top of the finished floor, meaning on top of the tile not flush with it. The way you are doing it allows for a potential for leaks later on as the house settles/moves.
That's what you are supposed to do. If you work with plumbers that don't do that then I don't know what that says about them, but that is how you are supposed to install the flange, you generally need a diamond bit to drill the holes but that is the BEST way to do it. Can it work if it isn't installed on top of the tile? Sure. Is it ideal? No. Lots of things work that aren't done properly.
You beat me to it. They sell spacers to bring the flange up to the correct height. Also the wax is not designed to seal water, it is designed to seal sewer gasses.
Thank you very much very helpful I have a job coming up this weekend and that's exactly what I needed appreciate it and I'm looking forward to seeing more of your fine work my name is Rudy Santos
Kerdi board is by far the best surface to grind on, good support, no dust or blade grab. I'm gonna have to try a mesh blade, way thinner than the masonry blades I've been using. And don't listen to the OSHA advocates, I don't know any tile setters that keep the shrouds on their grinders.
You wouldn't be allowed to play with the big boys on the big project sites if you took your guard off your grinder, it even tells you in your instruction manual that came with your grinder not to remove it! Why do you think that is?
I’m OCD, a circle in a circle just looks perfect to me. But at the end of the day, reality is that some pretty nasty stuff will be passing through your artwork! So, I just cut the octagon, less dust, less time spent maneuvering the grinder with one hand and holding the vac. It’s a whole lot faster and safer to cut the straight lines.
ISSAC, My name is MIKE. I am 56 years old, and you did a wonderful job in teaching this. THANK YOU. I lost part of my ring finger, with a paint sprayer tip. Believe it or not. PLEASE PLEASE put your guard back on your grinder. Hate to see you lose an eye or a finger. Once again, Thank you
IMHO the straight cut is the way to go. I am a perfectionist which means I spend inordinate amounts of time trying to make things look perfect. You mentioned it: no one will see it except the plumber or the person changing the toilet ring. I am weening myself away from absolute time wasters that add no value. Thanks for the video
