EASY KOHLER skirted toilet install 

Thank you for talking about both bolts particularly the shorter bolt. Every video on this type of install didn't mention those bolts in depth and the connectors associated . It appears I didn't get instructions and I was missing the 2 white connectors with the shorter bolts which was frustrating. To complicate the matter I couldn't find a video that address my issue until I viewed yours! Thanks again!

Thank you so much for this upload, it really helped my husband to install the toilet without a lot of cursing going on ! He’s Italian you know what I mean lol!

There were some parts of the installation (particularly the tank installation) that just aren't covered in other videos. Thanks for the thorough guide, which you managed without belaboring any specific topic and dragging out the video beyond what's needed.

I think we wore out your video. Excellent. Great help. Only took us 5 hours, don't ask. Your video was very helpful.

Awesome video. Thanks so much! You walked me through every step!

Thanks for the skirted installation. I wasn't sure how it worked, after watching your video I am going with a skirted for a cleaner look. Reviews that are negative seem to be about their installation. You got that solved!

You have no idea how helpful this video was to us thank you so so much

Excellent video, I just installed one and it went very smoothly. One thing that could help future viewers is to use a shop vac to get the remaining water out of the bowl and tank, it didn't spill a drop after I moved mine out to the backyard.

The gray water color is dye to see if you have any leaks some tanks have blue dye verifying with a color not clear for first few flushes.

This helped me put a toilet in for my mom. Thank you !

So wonderful-thanks for the video-much simpler than the paper instructions 🙄

Good job bud! Very helpful…

Very helpful. Thank you.

Thought I would add a few notes as I just installed mine and had some small issues that required some thought. 1) the toilet sticks out a bit to the sides as it is skirted. This complicated my install because it sat in such a way I could not touch the water supply valve. I added a 2nd vertical 1/4 turn shut off on top. I couldn't move my shut off because it was already an extension and would have required me to open up my wall. Note that if you do this, you want to get a 9" supply line (10" would be better). The standard 12": was too long. 2) to remove my old toilet I flushed, then put in old towels to get the remaining water. I used liquidlock (let sit sit 4-5 minutes to get the water in the tank. Removing the toilet then was easy 3) Kohler does a lousy job at describing how to install. Watch a couple of videos 4) one thing that worked well to sit the toilet was using some painters tape to indicate where the tube was and then the same on the toilet so I could align and have it easily fit Good luck all

Thanks for painting the wall….it was making my teeth itch. 😁

Thank you!

You mentioned the weight of the toilet seats the flange on the wax ring, not so in this case. It's the bolts on the adapter itself that park it. The weight of the toilet is born all the way to the floor and sits on it's skirt. The cool thing is the toilet is less likey to break the wax seal if it rocks a bit.

Super helpful video helped us install our gleam. But we keep having an issues with water leaking at the base (front) of the toilet. Be took it off, the floor around the main drain area was dry…reconnected. Still, slow leaking and pooling at the base. Any ideas?

Well done video. Toilet looks nice, I want one. Is that the Kohler Gleam?

Was your existing flange flush with your finished floor or a bit below? I have an old cast iron flange I have to drill out before installing a PVC insert and want to know if it goes flush with floor or slightly proud of floor

I gotta install a couple of those dual flush jobbies. The instructions actually say "watch the video FIRST." Yours is WAY clearer and easier to understand than Kohler's. And of course the skuzzier bathroom toilet supply line does NOT have a shut-off valve. Why do people do this kind of nonsense? Houses should have a cut-off at EVERY SINGLE water supply line.

So, I would like to buy this toilet but I'm really weirded out not by the tightening down mechanism but by the fact that there's just the naked porcelain tramway that goes into the plastic lower trapway assembly. What if the toilet backs up? There's no gasket to tighten in order to make a waterproof seal, as far as I can tell. Is there some sort of rubber gasket on the top of the plastic assembly to seal the connection? How has the reliability been? Free of leaks inside the skirted area?

Do you recommend caulking the base of the toilet to the floor? Other videos suggest doing this but leaving the back uncaulked for any leakage to show up.

Looks so easy, doesn't it. But you may need to tear up the wall to move the water valve before the bowl will fit. Once you've got that covered, since you can't see the connection to the floor mounted tube, you need to use "The Force" to figure out where it is. A small piece of painter's tape on the wall aligned with the center of the tube center will make it easier. Once you find it, push down on the toilet and you will feel it slide in. The big problem, at least with the Transpose model, is installing the tank. There is no plastic clip like the one in this video to hold the bolts. The bolts on the Transpose are integrated with rubber plugs factory installed in the tank. The bolts are much too short, and the plugs holding these bolts are not fully seated, compounding the problem. I needed to use a drift to properly set them, then compress the plugs using the mounting washers and nuts. Even with the tank unmounted there was barely enough exposed thread to get the nut started when I began. After several rounds of compressing, then backing off, I was able to get just barely enough exposed thread through the mounting holes on the bowl to get the tank mounted if I leaned on the tank over the bolt. Part of the problem is caused by poor factory molding. There is a hump in the porcelain where the tank gasket meets the bowl, preventing the gasket from soft recessing into the bowl. This is not a mistake; we bought 2 of these toilets, and they both have the defect. A look at the Lowes website shows that this is a common defect. I have removed and replaced many, many toilets over the years and, all in all, this was a total PITA! The pictorial directions that come with the toilet are pretty much just a bad joke. One RU-vidr showing an install said they were only good for sliding under the installed toilet to check for leaks! He was right!

What is the rubber "O" for in the kit? I'm not talking about the wax ring. Its rubber gasket in the tank mounting kit.

How are you able to make sure it all lined up when you put the toilet on? We thought we had it on but than it started leaking around the bottom before we sealed it up

Would it be the same install for KOHLER Transpose White Elongated?

Would the pressure of a plunger cause that seal to leak?

What is the single small black gasket for? I see that you didn’t use it?

do all skirted toilets need this flange adapter?

That looked way harder. How does the toilet drain create a seal with the black part?

12” rough from finished wall or framing?

It still move a little bit. Is that what the caulking is for?

I have the problem where the water supply slowly dripping out, I quickly connected it back to my toilet. How to fix the shut off valve before it gets worse?

I can't seem to tighten the side bolts enough to keep it from rocking. What do you suggest?

Is this a 10 or 12 inch center

I could swear that you put that wax on upside down.

We did all that and still got leakage … 🫤