Why would Holley not include this with their kit. I spent $3000 on their harness and then I messaged them. Their excuse was well there’s a large array of alternators out there. We don’t know what people are using well most people with an LS swap are running the LS alternator absolute that kit nickels and dimes you to death.
Just for y'all's info: P: Pulse (or Stator Pulse). This terminal is used for tachometers, which measure engine RPM. It's like the alternator's way of saying, "Hey, look how fast I'm spinning!" L: Lamp (or Warning Lamp). This terminal connects to the warning lamp on your dashboard. When the alternator isn't doing its job, this lamp lights up to say, "Hey, something's not right!" F: Field (or Rotor). This terminal controls the alternator's field coil, which helps regulate the alternator's output voltage. It's like the alternator's way of saying, "I've got this under control!" S: Sense (or Battery Voltage Sense). This terminal is used to sense the battery voltage. It's like the alternator's way of saying, "Let me check the battery's level before I give it a boost!"
Man. You are spot on with this setup. I wish I would have watched this video before I burned up 3 alternators in a year on my 6.o swapped 84 monte. I ended up buying a 1 wire alternator and been good for over a year now.
@jmullis78ify thank you for your response and time ... also I did what he did in the video a hot key one wire with a 470omhs resistor and I still end up with 12 volts at the end of the wire idk what am I doing wrong
That gives you default charging. Now run a wire from the "s" terminal on the Alt. to your junction block, and you'll get higher charging ability.(14.5-15.0v) Thanks for helping explain it to people!
Doing the 5.3 turbo 91 Z71 sportside thanks for the info come in handy Hollies on backorder but it should ship out soon already have the motor the turbo and the camera built two heads and so on and so forth should be a pretty fun ride when I get done with it
This is also a fix for 99 to 04 gm trucks, if you have an issue with a new alternator not charging run a new wire with 470 ohm resistor from the L terminal (brown wire on connector) to and ignition source and you're done.
86 z28 5.3 swap here as well lol sloppy stage 2 cam only and I had the pro flo system on it but wasn't working right ig my battery wasn't charging so your a life saver man lol love the build. Where you from?
Great video. Simple and to the point... which is weird for youtube. Are you planning on putting you camero on a dyno, im seriously considering running the same motor/ holley sniper setup in my nova and was wondering what kind of power you would get at the rear wheels. Mostly so i know if i need to change out my 10 bolt rear end.
Yes, hopefully I'll get it on a Dyno soon. I'm still on the stock 10 bolt with 3:73s and a pumpkin girdle. Funds didn't allow for an engine build AND a new rear so I left the stocker in place so I can still drive it!
I'm curious about the "F" wire. It seems the field wire would need to be attached also, but you say no, so I'm gonna try it your way. Thanks. Good video
Ty ty ty. Hope u get this, been trying to wire a LS in my airboat. Not many people willing to give up free help. Ty ty ty. Any thoughts does a msd 6014 need a fuse/circuit breakerand if so what size? Does a starter need need same. Any help greatly appreciated
Just use your stock wiring that came in your ls/truck wire harness and have your PCM program “Alt L” option “1” then start your engine then prove the harness alt connector “L” pin or “B” pin you should have 9 vdc as a signal or to excite the alt. If your harness has no voltage reading then you can use this video procedures. I use the stock alt wire harness with no issue.
When u said the “L” or “B” pin should have 9 vdc does that mean 9 volts for the exciter wire? Im tryin to wire up my alternator right since im pretty sure i just burnt this one up and cant figure out where the two wires from my 10si swap to on the newer cs130d
What’s up bro LS 53 Standalone harness when I test power at the coil packs and injectors the test light goes super dim and I’m losing the voltage somewhere But a cranks but don’t start
Hey so I did this on my ls swap and as soon as there is any load like radiator fans or headlights, there's a God awful squealing that starts coming from my alternator, got any ideas?
I have the 2 wire 05 truck alternator l terminal is the signal wire but what I have read it is controlled by bcm so I don’t know what size resistor I could use to signal say 4 volts which would give me a charge of about 80% not sure it’d this would work but wow it is hard to find a whole lot of ways to make the dr44 dr36 alternator charg w
this very good information my question is what does "L" stand for or mean I'm asking because I have a 2 wire alternator that came off a newer LS engine.
I ordered a 100 pack of 470ohm 1/2w resistors, and wired it just like you explained in the video. Didnt work I can take a peice of wire straighr from a battery, hook the resistor to 1 end of the wire and test voltage on the other side of the resistor and its still 12v, i ordered a 100 pack, none of them make it go down to 5v I ended up cutting the unused map sensor pigtail and used the 5v reference wire Holley should give you a 5v spaee on the harness somewhere
Cool video... I also have a 5.3 with a standalone harness... I'm using the 411 pcm.. pinout red-18 is the alternator signal wire.. my alternator hums while the key is off.. so I used my multimeter. Red-18 is sending 7v to the alternator without key.. I bought the resistor 470ohm.. and using a switched 12v source.. multimeter shows 12v still on the other end of the resistor... I bought the pack of 100 lol... tried 5 out of the pack still shows 12v after resistor.. check yours before you fire up
Did you get it figured out? I bought a pack of 100 and they test 470ohm with multimeter but not reducing voltage when wired in. I don't what the deal is!
@Jeremiah Morrow yeah I have it figured out... don't buy a ebay harness lol... I have my ecm to a key source now... can't send a signal if it doesn't have power in the first place lol
Couldn’t you run the L wire with the 470ohm right to the main lug on the back and then only one wire to the battery. Then it wouldn’t burn it up. Or would that eventually drain your battery
With the 470 ohms resistor inline it shouldn't matter much if it was straight to the battery because at 12v off or 14v running its sub 30 ma that can flow but switched it ideal
It's actually the stock upper hose that came with my 5.3 pulled from a truck. I shortened each end to make it fit and also cut about 1.5" off the water pump snout.
So all I have to do is hook up the alternator wire with 470ohm resistor to a 12 volt source what happens if you lose 12 volts when you hit the key on but than goes back to 12v when you let go of the ignition would this connection work thanks
That doesn’t matter. It will work. just follow this video. You take the single wire to any wire in your vehicle that has 12 V when the key is on. The reason the resistor is there is to drop the voltage down to a lower value which tells the alternator the battery is low and needs to start charging.
Factory upper truck hose, I shortened the snout on the water pump about an inch, and trimmed the hose to fit. It was suppose to be for temporary use, but it worked perfect so I left it.
Wait I’m doing this exact thing right now and I can’t figure out how the alternator is going to send the current back to the battery. I know I’m missing something obvious, but how does that one small wire tell the holley it’s charging the battery without having a lead going back to the fixed 12V?
Yes this is exactly how you would do it. I am using a Terminator x and there really isn’t any other way to do it. Holley offers a harness you can buy for 20 or $30. I would not waste the money. You can get this connector from a junkyard for nothing.
@@KravasGarage Just for more clarification. My harness came with a 1 wire setup, I noticed my alternator wasn't charging. So do I take that wire out of the harness, add a resistor and put the end I cut to 12v keyed?
No, the wire I ran is a 12v sourced wire but is knocked down to 5v or so by the resistor.. the alternator gets it's 12v source through the main power wire that goes to Batt+.
This may or may not be related to my issue as this is my first swap. Swap completed but my battery dies after a couple of days. Some type of draw and I can’t figure out where. I used an aftermarket harness and it had an alternator plug on it. Could this still be a possible issue and way to resolve? Any input would be appreciated
I would first verify alt voltage with the engine running to verify it's charging.. then do an amp draw test with a meter and see if you have a draw draining the battery..
my cowl hood clears it with ease, itI sure doesnt look like it would. Ive been told it will clear a factory hood.. but its ugly.. ive got plans to redo the serp system in the future!
Lol he has a hood scoop I have the 6.0 in my 86 trans no hood scoop. Mines the same way I had to cut a section out of hood frame where it hit. It closes great now.
