What, so you don't apply heat to each pin one by one, pull on the pins individually, melt the plastic, swear like a trooper, mangle the pins, attempt to lay the soldering iron flat across the whole thing hoping that might help then after 20 minutes give up and throw the board away anyway? That's I how thought it was supposed to be done?! (NB nice to find a fellow electronics Brit on youtube I hadn't seen before!)
I just spent an hour wicking and sucking a pin header I melted and was about to toss the board when I found this video. 10 minutes later and the socket was out. Thank you!
Thanks for sharing! I've destroyed a few boards due to the frustration of trying to pull each pin out one by one and this looks like the perfect answer.
Working on replacing a variable resistor (of a Vestax dj controller which is very worthy to me) with 'only' 5 points and actually came up with this idea myself and searched the net if this was stupid. Your video proved it to be a good idea. Thank you very much making the video and taking the effort of sharing. I didn't think of using solder but only a wire, maybe connected to soldering iron but this looks like thé trick 🙏🏽
Could be. I prefer not to heat up an entire board and it electronics because it causes stress and most have strict limits of max process temperatures and duration and without a controlled process it if difficult to meet these specs.. basically reliability could be affected.
Perfect advice. Needed to remove a similar 16 pin connector at home as my normal hakko desoldering equipment is back at work due to the lockdown. Worked a treat with this method demonstrated and again the part fell right out ! Thanks again will hit the subscribe button.
What a genius idea, thank you very much! I was struggling with a socket bar on an ESP32 board which was unfortunately pre-soldered on. Ended up plucking out each pin one by one. This is going to save me from the same headache.
Hmm... isn't better to use cheap and right tools instead of spending time on bending wire, soldering it etc? I would recommend to buy T12 soldering station with iron series 14xx or much more better, but also much more expensive T245/T210 compatible soldering station with similar iron(s) series. In this case, just put gel flux on pins and heat them. Usually I spend max 10 seconds for removal any 1 or 2 rows headers. Waste of time is struggling with such a simple issue.
Point taken. I clean every board with IPA and a brush and inspect. I seen managed so many engineers that spend hours debugging a fault that has been caused by their own sloppy solder splashes.
Very good thank you very much for your information information why can't you tell me how to clean any motherboard and comments with connector cleaner or other cleaner can you please suggest me
Thank you! My lab technician and I tried desoldering a 20 pin through hole connector on a multilayer PCB and we decided to break the component and took the pins out after! This technique would have been so much easier.
Thanks, that´s a good Tip. Last time I tried to remove a large header, I ended up destroying it to desolder the pins separately. This does seem a lot easier...
About 380 degrees. The temperature that the iron is stet to is important but so many cheap irons have a problem delivering the heat into the work-piece as they often don't have a good thermal coupling between the sensor the tip and the element. If in doubt use 400 C or a larger soldering tip.
Possibley. Compared to copper has a dramatically lower thermal conductivity. Since a paperclip would help maintain the solder flood then I reckon a paperclip is worth a try as the solder blob will conduct the heat.
The desoldering pumps that I have tried are sitting on the store room. They are not that useful. They maybe OK of some specific production problems but I never got along with them. The advice you should tale away from this video is the most important tool by far is the actual soldering iron. I have used virtually every cheap one there is and they are a true false economy. The ability to deliver the power and control the temperature is key. My Weller is 90 Watts with silver heating element closely coupled to the solder tip. The cheaper irons are like trying to play soccer with ballet shoes on. I discovered a decent hand solder sucker, a good iron, some flux, some decent Loctite or (formerly Multicore) 60/40 lead/tin and excellent close up vision is all you need, I rarely use hot air soldering much as this tends to stress some components when repairing stuff.
Please bin that old PCB killer sucker 😮💨 It's much more safe to use braided solder wick, though it may take some time to adapt to this method. The tin sucker is only safe on old tube radios with birds nest fitted components.
Strange comment. Everyone one knows expensive solder will not clear 1.6mm plated through holes. I have never damaged a PCB with it and it always works speedily and efficiently and does not waste money or copper.
@@razenby Strange reply to a comment. Everyone one knows that a tin sucker is able to suck up a heated pcb pad and part of the pcb track together with the melted tin. Everyone one also knows that a freshly tinned 1.6mm plated thru hole can be cleaned out using solder wick. I have never damaged a pcb with it and it always works speedily and efficiently and does not waste eyeballs or lamp bulbs or copper.
Hot air has many problems due to poor quality PCBs and cheap hot air soldering tools that do not control the temperature properly. Often it is easier and does less damage to use a good quality soldering iron and do it fast with localized heat.
Nice method, but geezus christ you are putting a lot of heat for a long time, onto that board & nearby components. Would be better to try n get it done a lot quicker, with less pfaffing around.
Heat is no the same as temperature. It is perfectly safe and within the spec of the FR4 and the components. Due to the mass being heated the overall temp is just about the melting point of Sn/Pb 60/40 so well withing the reflow temperature range. That is the difference between an professional and an amateur with a hammer. The skill is knowing how hard to hit it.
@@razenbyYou are an imbecile who has obviously never soldered anything in your life. Every pad on that board has a copper trace that conducts heat very rapidly along to other components which are heat sensitive. The longer you sit there, with molten solder in contact with the circuit, the more you fry the components all around. Fact.
