Converting the John Deere easy oil change back to traditional oil change system. www.howtowithd... There you can find parts list to convert the John Deere easy oil change system.
Just a little help for someone changing there oil and adding the extension lines. You can put aluminum foil over the frame right under drain plug before you remove it bend the edges to make a drain into your pain. the throw foil away when done no mess
Personally the EZ change system only purpose is to improve their profit margins. For a thread locker like Loctite Blue to work, all traces of oil must be removed from the surfaces, if you can't do that, it won't work and you're wasting money buying it. I hope you didn't use a torque wrench instead of a breaker bar to break loose that big bolt, that will really mess up your torque wrench, the accuracy will pretty much be gone. You mentioned the importance of proper tools, I almost fell out of my chair when I saw you using those big Channel Locks to tighten the oil drain tube, and those universal pin wrenches are a poor substitute for a proper socket.
Just finished installing the oil conversion kit. All went very smoothly and glad I made the change. One point I discovered is that if you don't have a alligator wrench a great substitute is a 13 mm 12 point socket instead. I found it fit perfectly and removed the bolt easily. Note: a 13 mm 6 point socket will not work - only the 13 mm 12 point.
Just a tiny thing that you might consider, a couple small blocks on the opposite side of the drain you can pull the mower onto, the incline help drain a bit more of the oil out. Used a slope that led into a car port when I changed the oil on my rider.
The pin wrench trashed the external threads on the MIU13767 adapter. DO NOT USE! Spend the money for the proper 12 mm hex socket. Off to order a new adapter...
A section of cardboard (or heavy paper) that is creased into a V can be used to keep the oil off the frame. A plastic bag on the floor that has kitty litter on it makes for easy cleanup.
The Courage V twin engine on my cub cadet LTX-1046 had the same oil change problem. I replaced it by using a 3/8 inch ball valve connected to the engine block with a 4 inch threaded nipple from Lowes. I added a threaded plug to the ball valve to keep it from leaking if the valve were to be knocked open. Then I took a 2 inch nipple and forced it into 6 inches of 5/8 inch clear tubing. I keep it in the accessory box. When I want to change oil, I put the tube assembly into the ball valve opening and open the valve. Done. Looks like that would be better than that gadget you are using. BTW, I'm on this page because I am thinking of moving to the Deere because this deck doesn't mulch well with a plug. And I need a mulch plug to keep from throwing grass on my red mulch covered flower beds.
Any tips for getting the new oil filter on? I'm having a very difficult time getting it to go on all the way. I have the correct parts for the e160 (i.e., the same as the OP used) and am also ordering a oil filter wrench (the TY26640).
I'm not sure about using the locktite and if I did I would use it sparingly applying it with the small brush so it's just on the pipe threads to prevent it getting mixed in with the oil...Thanks for the helpful video. It's nice to see how it's done before hand.
Dang Doc. I can't get anything done when you upload. The notification comes in and everything else stops. Think you could hold back for a few days haha!?! Keep up the good stuff!
It's a very good idea, but I installed one of those on mine about 30 years ago. Oh yeah, my JD garden tractor is still running strong, no matter how much I abuse it... I do like the Gator🐊 Tool though, where'd you get that???🤔🐊😲
Nice video, thank you. As far as that right side square plug, bend a piece of cardboard to make a valley under that square plug directing the oil out to you bucket before removing the square plug. Will keep it 90% clean.
Excellent... I was thinking the same thing and the alligator socket was the missing item for me... open end wrench will fit the oil drain but there is not enough room to move it in the tight area. I like the idea of aluminum foil to help guide the oil out as Eric said too. All good Ideas... Thanks Doc.
I know, right, everybody's a critic. Me too. Try turning your oil container around and pour with the spout up instead of down. I know, it seems counter intuitive, but it pours easier with no "glugs" by releasing the inside air locking. Great video, clear instructions and demonstrations. Love John Deere but I agree with the viewer that indicated it to be a scam. Pay more for the convenience, then go buy the parts to change back to traditional.
Nice job, doing it right is better than doing it quick. After the change, what size filter can I use if I don't want to use factory or just go with Deere one?
One of the things I enjoyed the most when I moved up to a X570 two years ago. All of that came standard. My only complaint is the location of the fuel filter still hard to change.
To those who prefer to retain the factory system, and leaving aside the cost, where are you putting the used "Easy Change" filter which still holds over a quart of used oil? In the garbage can I expect.
I definitely recommend as you will for sure save money and make sure to get all old oil changed, but it will cost you more than "$5".....probably like 15-20 for the SAE-30 (api SJ if calls for, mine does for warranty) and a quality filter.
Saw a video last night where the tech used a piece of cardboard under the drain plug to create a trough to initially guide the oil past the frame and into a can. No oil spilling onto the frame and all over the place. Once the oil drained the extender tube could be installed. Minimal mess.
I prefer Synthetic oil, 0W40 or 5W40. Anybody have a preference or recommendation? Also, anybody have thoughts on Cub-Cadet XT1/2, or Sears ProSeries ? I also like and want the Kohler V-Twin motor, skip on a Briggs&Straton.
Hey Doc, what is that 90° fitting that is up high on the engine between the oil filter and the spark plug boot? It’s the one with the hose attached, right above the orange and white sticker.
I appreciate you taking the time and doing the video. I just bought an e120 and was going to do the same to mine. I just can't think of old oil being in the engine when changing my oil and filter. I was planning on extracting the oil from the crankcase via the dipstick holder prior to installing the kit instead of the route you took. Then I thought well why don't I take the advantage of a larger filter and extra oil capacity to help keep the engine running cooler. So then out of the blue a bell went off in my head and I thought of not buying the kit keeping what I've got now and just once a year extract all the oil out of the engine and just add extra oil to get it to where it should be with the 30-second oil filter. Once a year oil change I can handle the $40 filter price.
My kohler and Kawasaki motors say not to twist in the dipstick cap when checking oil. You may want to check your manual. If you screw it is and shouldn't it will show more oil on the stick than it should.
Great video that was a great video I wondered about that I didn't think a lot of that oil would come out that dirty do you weigh the oil filter was. Why do you side to get a John Deere give me a good idea thank you
I used the female end of a 3/4 drive ratchet extension to remove the drain plug. I could not believe how much dirty oil is left in the motor with just using the quick change alone.
In order to get a proper oil level measurement, do NOT screw in the dip stick. Also, make sure to check it again after you run the motor for a minute and allow the oil pump to fill the filter.
Dude....I make nearly 40 an hour, you are taking a system that you pay 40 bucks for to change, to make it a traditional oil change that takes up more time and more disposal etc....sorry my time is worth more than going through this and changing it back....but hey to each their own.
