Also thanks for the tip on the tire rotation. I've done two oil changes so far and rotated the tires. Not a big deal but if I don't need to do it that will save me 15 minutes.
Great video. Not mentioned, but probably of interest is the relationship between viscosity and hot lifter tick, and change intervals and cold lifter tick. In the summer, here in the Western Mohave on mountain ascents, but also, according to the forums, on the track, on hot days (e.g. 100F) e.g. in Arizona, B6 and BP engines, with their low (for the industry) oil pressures can exhibit hot lifter tick. Going up in viscosity from 5W-30, to 0W-40 will eliminate this. For extreme heat, e.g. 110F, adding some 0W-50 works. For cold lifter tick, my experience is that keeping a fresh load of detergent in the oil, by changing frequently, e.g., every six months, does reduce the varnish in the lifters, and on the inside of the engine generally. (You can see the level of varnish when the valve cover is removed.) I use 5W-30 in the winter, and 0W-40 in the summer, (to prevent hot tick), and I cannot remember when I last had cold lifter tick on start up. In Colorado, you probably do not experience hot tick very often, but many owners report cold lifter tick. Your thoughts please?
Regarding the “tightness” of the oil filter - my father showed me something I’ve never experienced before, or since. He’d tighten the filter about a 1/2 turn post contact, then demonstrate that it was easy to spin off. Once the oil change was complete, he’d fire up the engine and demonstrate that even his vice-like hands could not budge the filter when the engine was running. Try it yourself… Point. Unless you have a gorilla periodically changing your oil, there’s no need to own a filter wrench.
30 PSI of oil pressure, pressing on the are of the end of a 3" diameter oil filter (area = Pi x 1.5^2 = 7 sq. inches) is 210 pounds of axial force. So no, that oil filter is not going anywhere. Good demo.
Good info. I've been using Mobile 1 Euro spec 0w-40 in my 300k mile 97' NA8 with good results after replacing all the hydrualic lifters a couple years back. Car seams happy with it and I get less in the catch can than I did when running T6 or standard 10w-30. I live in Ohio as far as climate goes. Also have in the 170's for dry compression accross all 4 cylinders.
Stepping up a grade to 0-W40 is commonly done on older engines. Interesting about less in the catch can. You would expect less oil to slip past the rings with a thicker oil, but the oil in the catch can is proof. I am interested in what you say about find that you compression is so good at 300,000 miles. Reliable information on these engines with a long service life is hard to come by. I change oil on a schedule, 2X per year, with different winter & summer oils. At 130,000 miles I am very close to factory compression. At first I thought my compression gage was wrong. So I bought a new gage. Both gages read the same. Modern oils changed regularly extend the life of these engines beyond anything anyone dreamed at the time these car were designed and built.
I have never been able to put 4 quarts in my 2002 nb2. I put the car on ramps an let it drain to a very slow drip, to get to the full mark it takes about 3.5 quarts. Any ideas? I have had car since 2015 with no problems.
Not mentioned but, if you overfill your oil, and you have a hand plunger type oil/fuel pump and a 1/4” tube, it’s super easy to remove the excess through the dipstick tube. Too much oil can cause the crank lobes to whip the oil into a froth. And oil pumps don’t handle froth well, so over-filling with oil might under-lubricate the engine.
@-dash Mazda (and most major manufacturers) actually do define what they call "extreme operating conditions" in the owner's manual and the service manual - we'd recommend seeing if your conditions fall under their definition. That many days of extreme heat in a row would likely qualify!
Hypothetically speaking... what if my Miata leaks oil and I unknowingly ran it until it was bone dry; should I be worried and do I need to do anything other than fix the leak and fill it with new oil?
I was recommended by the place that restored my 1997 1.8L non turbo MK1 MX5 to use 10W40 Semi Synthetic, would there be any positives or negatives compared to your recommendation of 10W30 Synthetic? Thanks
Just curious why you guys stopped selling your Randal intake tube? I''ve been looking for them on the second-hand market and haven't had much luck finding one
Forced induction is simply the name given to a power adder that forces air into the engine, such as a turbo or super charger set-up. Our recommendations (with capacity for a stock setup): 0w20 for the ND, 4.5 qts 5w20 or 0w20 for NC models (depending on year), 4.5 qts 5w30 for our V8 conversions 10w30 for non-turbo NA/NB, 4 qts 10w40 for turbo NA/NB, 4 qts 20w50 for track use only NA/NB (4 qts) or classic Minis
Oil’s such a tricky topic as there’s so many variables. For instance, you’re recommending 10W-40 for forced induction NA’s & NB’s - both the owners manual and Red Line recommend 5W-30 (though the manual states 10W-30 is allowable) for my Mazdaspeed MX-5. Looking at Mobil 1’s website they say 5W-20, which tells to me they’re probably thinking in terms of maximizing fuel economy. My MSM is primarily a weekend toy that’s kept at “F” with 5W-30 synthetic, allowed to get good oil & water temperature prior to hitting boost, and idled (hood ajar) ‘til the fans kick in three times (two or three minutes) prior to shutting ‘er down. I generally leave the hood propped open for a half hour too. I’ve yet to go beyond a 3500 mile oil change interval and flush the (FL22) coolant every two years. These cars run hot, and I sure hope I’m doing right by my trusty buddy… Thanks for all the videos FM, I appreciate them!
So I have a 2022 ND2 Miata. And I daily drive the car, and once every other week.. I like to take it up at the mountains and run it quit hard, so my question would be? Would you still recommend for me use the recommended w20 oil?
A good quality full synthetic at the recommended weight has worked great for us in most cars. unless you have high horsepower or really extreme weather, there isn't a good reason to switch.
@@OscarC789 We're obviously partial to Redline, but you can't go wrong with any good name brand synthetic. The important thing is keeping up with maintenance and oil change intervals.
@@FlyinMiataVideo and yes I understand you 100% but there’s something I’m not understanding about different types of weight in the oil. The main one would be, the friction and heat/cooldown of the oil. Kinda like saying. Since I drive the car kinda hard every other week, but I’m running the recommended weight which is 0w-20 for my ND2 but I want to put 0w-30 to add a bit more protection since I know I daily the car and well, run it hard asf?
@@OscarC789 A 30 weight oil doesn't necessarily provide more protection. It just means it is thicker at the "average" operating temperature range. The NDs have high tolerances and high compression engines that don't like super thick oil. Any oil will heat cycle and burn after being run hard at high temperatures over and over. Almost all modern synthetic oils have polymers that bond to the metal parts to ensure lubrication. There are definitely justifications for thicker oil, depending on the car, specific engine, use and environment, but for ND Miatas, we haven't seen a big reason to switch. The best way to protect your engine is to keep the oil topped off, keep it fresh, and keep it clean.
@@FlyinMiataVideo and this is why I watch you guys! Thank you very very much for your time and responses. Super helpful :) so I have concluded with. Just get a oil cooler at best and stay on it with the oil changes :)
