This is how to produce an instructional video. No "Whatsup guys?" And 5 minutes of yacking before gating into the important info. Concise and to the point!
Would also like to say that you should make sure to check all of your lines for vacuum leaks, especially plastic connectors, like on the PCV, which can tend to crack. Vacuum leak/s will cause rough idling and would be best to rule that out before you go looking at the IAC. Another thing to make sure of first, is that your intake air temperature sensor is operating correctly, as well as your mass air flow sensor. It should also go without saying that you should use a scan tool on your vehicle to see what trouble codes your vehicle is throwing. That's usually a decent indication of what is wrong with the system as a whole and where to start, but not always the case if it's something wrong with the ECU, for example. If you've done all that and ruled it out as a possibility, then we can move on to the IAC. A better test for IAC's, would be to start the engine, and pay attention to how your motor runs and what rpm it falls to after a couple minutes, and then shut it off. Now, figure out where your valve is (usually on or near the throttle body of the intake manifold in most cases; sometimes a hose will lead from the throttle body or intake air tube to a remote valve somewhere, so make sure where yours is) and unplug the wiring harness connection, and then start the vehicle again. If your IAC Valve _has_ been functioning properly, you should know right away because you should immediately notice a change in how the motor runs with it unplugged. If it _hasn't_ been functioning properly, you will most likely see no change in the way the motor runs because the compensations that the ECU has made are still in effect. At this point, we still don't know for certain if it's your IAC though, so don't immediately condemn it. At that point it would be best to get a multimeter or test light and test the electrical pins on the control valve. You would need to look up what the correct voltages are for your vehicle from your owners manual or by looking it up online, and it would be good to test the pins on the wiring harness as well to make sure that the wiring is not faulty either or getting bad signals from the ECU. The reason we want to do all of this troubleshooting, is to rule out or confirm the IAC or the wiring being the problem, and if it is not, then we can start to troubleshoot elsewhere, like your engine timing. Perform troubleshooting tests whenever possible, otherwise we're just blindly ordering parts and pissing into the wind. If you're here reading, I hope you figure out whatever the issue is, and have a nice day :)
Yep, that's why I'm here reading! Opel Corsa idling high and revving on its own. Mechanic scanned and diagnosed coil pack as he saw misfires but that has made problem worse - car is now shuddering at times at idle and feels like it could cut out easily at lights. Apparently this issue could be as a result of any one or number of sensors MAF was replaced so next it could be ICV or cam/crankshaft sensor. Or that one you mention above about the temperature. I'm wondering how you'd know that the ECU was gone altogether
@@nixon9346 we replaced the car September 2020 and bought a 2016 Auris diesel. We love this new one. It frustrated me that mechanics here in Dublin couldn't/ didn't want to fix that Opel. A final decent mechanic we brought it to said he'd clean out the throttle body and see how that went and if it needed a refurbished one it might cost €200 or something. I said that's fine. He diagnosed the throttle body by turning on the car and while it was doing its revving he disconnected a sensor from the fuel line(?) and it started revving normally. He said it could be a temperature sensor either and told me he couldn't look at it for two weeks and to call him back. When I did I couldn't get through so I left it. We were on the brink of buying a new car at that point anyway. I often wonder if it's just a fiddly bitch of a car to fix - I had to practically take off the front left wing to replace a headlight bulb - and mechanics refused to touch it. And I sometimes wonder if it wasn't a busted fuel pump inside the tank that was the issue - we let the petrol level go down to the sensor light a few times before the revving issue arose and Scotty Kilmer freaked me out by saying that shouldn't be done with modern cars as modern fuel pumps are located in the tank and lubricated by the fuel. It's bizarre that mechanics I brought it to here in south county Dublin didn't have a clue or werent genuinely interested in fixing this issue. I wanted to bring it back to the English guy who had replaced our MAF sensor 6 months prior which fixed a starting problem but he had left that shop. Buying a car in Dublin is not a big issue - finding a decent mechanic is, however.
@@james6401 i know man.I have problem that when engine is warm and i press clutch while driving revs drop almost to zero and sometimes it stalls.I thought maybe problem is with throthle body and idle valve but to get to it on my corsa b 16v i need to remove alot of shit and i am not sure i can do that.
@@nixon9346 yes that sounds exactly like our problem, we had to keep revving for fear of it cutting out. If you have the time and ability and don't need the car too urgently I'd be envious of you doing it yourself as mechanics werent touching it with barge pole! We were willing to spend €1000 on getting that issue and any others fixed and keeping the car for another 2 or 3 years - our current car repayments are nearly €3000 a year so we'd be saving and my missus is into recycling and keeping things until they fell apart. I'd focus on the throttle system though - the motorised valve in there might be the cause. Have you ruled out other potential problems like temp sensors, cam sensors, the fuel pump etc? The English mechanic checked all our lines for leaks 6 months earlier when he replaced the MAF and it was all good he said
Yes on the white smoke coming out of the tailpipe, the last couple weeks. I'll have to check the milky stuff, theres no cap on radiator to look inside. i had some work done on the car a few mths ago and at the time the car would just not start for a couple days then fire right up and be fine. The mechanic kept the car 2 days and it started every time! Nor would the check engine light come on. He advised me to have it towed in when it wouldn't start but it has ever since. while there he did a "new car" inspection to break down what all i need. A tune up, valve gasket covers, tie rod...to the tune of $1500 for everything. The most important repairs running several hundred each, so i just didnt have the money. It may take a couple days but I'll def let u know what happens. I would've traded in already Matt but i need a couple of months to be financially set to handle the pymt. i was hoping this one would hold out for me. But its winter so i dont see it happening. i was hoping to spend the minimum and get what life i could out of it until i could afford the new one. i start a new job on the 27th making more $ but its biweekly pay and i NEED the car to get me there. I will keep u in the loop, though i assume i have at least a couple of urgent issues now. Hopefully it'll be something i can pull off! Thanks again so much for your time and wisdom. im gonna become one of those kick ass girls that knows how to fix 🚗 ;)
+Mel Mel labelle No prob! And that's great! Always nice to see the ladies fixin' their own cars! Thanks for keeping me in the loop! Yeah it sounds like you have a blown head gasket / cracked head. I wouldn't do any repairs on it as it is a gone-er, so it is very good you didn't pay that mechanic! By "gone-er" I mean it would cost so much to fix, you might as well get a new car.
On my 94 Mitsubishi Montero it had what appears the same IAC. My engine was not holding idle, but stalling out. I was able to take the IAC apart (3 small screws), clean it, and put back together......and it works now. Also cleaned the throttle body area where it fits into as it had some corrosion/grime there.
Thanks Matt,I just subscribed to your channel,my 1997 jeep had the same symptoms, after spending about $400 bucks,on a new fuel pump,o2 sensors,I was even going to take the catalytic converter off and drill through it and weld back on,turned out to be the dam I.A.C valve ..smh.Anyway thanks for the video.Jeep runs great now
Does a bad IAC cause random misfire code? I removed my IAC while the engine was cold, and the pintle was stuck out on it. Would that cause a random misfire?
Would the iac cause an intermittent no crank no start for 7 months...its gotten progressively worse...almost daily. I have a po507 code. I had the throttle body replaced a year ago. 2008 jeep Cherokee 150 000 miles. Thanks
Hey Matt! So they ran a test on the battery, starter, & alternator. The alt tested good but I've heard these readings can be inaccurate..?? The belt appears to be in good condition, tight and unremarkable. The oil isnt milky on the dipstick but we are having to add water/coolant to the reservoir frequently. Also the power steering fluid needs to be filled every week or so. The milky substance is allover the front of the engine. under the. intake etc. At Advance, they put a new battery in yesterday. Light flickered very dimly last night. The shuddering and loss of power has twice now been accompanied by the speedometer and rpm's jumping all the way up when i was going 10mph. Very strange. Thank u so much for your time and input. I truly appreciate it and i hope the good stuff comes bk to u!
+Mel Mel labelle Is there a check engine light on? If so, what is the code?  I remember one time I was working on a Honda Civic and the battery light would flicker on randomly. All tests of the alternator came up fine and the wiring was also good (as bad wiring can cause this problem as well). Finally I just pulled the trigger and replaced the alternator and the problem was solved. I did this because the battery light is CAUSED by the alternator. Meaning, the sensor that sends a signal to the computer to turn the battery light on is INSIDE to the alternator. If all wiring is fine (most of the time it is) then the problem is likely the alternator. Let me know what it ends up being. I am always curious to see what solves the problem my viewers ask me about! Since you have some bad leaks, try to see if any of the leaks are leaking onto the serpentine belt. Something is making it slip and it might be the fluids leaking onto it. Is the coolant milky inside the radiator or expansion/overflow tank (Depending on which coolant system the car uses)? Milky coolant usually means oil is getting mixed with it. This usually occurs when there is some failure in the sealing of the cylinder heads, such as a head gasket or a cracked head. Was the car overheated recently? Is there an excessive amount of white smoke coming out the tail pipe? Especially in the morning on first start up? This issue needs to be addressed first as it would be the most expensive to fix. (Most cases, people get rid of the car when they have a head failure since it costs so much to fix). The speedo and RPM's going up is also a concern. Does the transmission have enough fluid? How is the condition of the fluid?
@@bretfeeney1072 A respirator wouldn't help either. Dust mask like he is wearing (is for large dust particles )and respirators (smaller particles and fumes like paint depending on the installed filter). Each need to be used in ventilated areas, neither of these produce oxygen. He needs to pull that car outside or get an oxygen mask like fireman wear.
after I replaced the spark plugs on my 2008 Toyota Sienna, I unplugged the throttle body and clean it, now the car won’t idle. It runs fine smooth (not rough) for 5 seconds then turns off, do I need to reset the throttle body? Basically the car stalled after five seconds. Please help.
There is a good chance of being found passed out of dead with your dusk mask on... That thing is used for sanding, mowing yards, etc. Pull the car out the garage or park it in the garage in the opposite direction to exhaust the fumes outside. You need a oxygen mask if you want to continue to do things this way.
in my 99 cherokee my car wont even stay on, it rolls over and i can give it gas but as soon as i let off the gas it dies, would that be an iac problem?
TheBaronvonbadass Yes it could be, but to me it sounds more like a large vacuum leak. Check for leaks around the intake manifold or brake booster. Also check the air intake after the MAF sensor.
You mentioned that if you hold the gas, it will stay on. Have someone hold down the gas while you check for leaks. When you check, you really need to check for places that could cause a large leak. Small vacuum lines are not likely to cause this issue. Check around the intake manifold and throttle body gaskets, as well as the brake booster line.
Hi how much is the valve moving on a good valve? My 2006 lancer moves only an 8th,another ?,does a faulty valve cause a high idle about 3000 rpm and also have gas in my oil dipstick. I have turned the key on then unplugged the valve wiring until it was as far out to close it fully where it idles perfect but after about 3 starts it begins again
So my truck is occasionally running a high idle when I crank it up but when I put it in gear, it's idle returns to normal. Do I need to change my IAC or is it something else?
, I had idling issues after my engine gets warmed up. After months of googling I found IAC is stuck on my palio 1.2 (2002). So I have removed it and cleaned with carb cleaner. I also loosened the spring and removed the pintle which comes on it without measuring. Now the problem is I don't know how to recalibrate the pintle which is present on the IAC. I don't know whether to tighten it till the end of thread. Because I'm concerned about the free back and forth movement of the IAC. Please let me know if you guys know how to calibrate or how much should I tighten the pintle on my IAC. Thank you!!
When i start my car it idles between 2000-3000 rpms, i turned the car off and unplugged my idle air control valve and the idle dropped to around the normal range. I then plugged acv back in and the car was ok for a short while. Does that sounds like i need a new valve? Thanks
Dude, I really like your channel but content providers who edit their videos should not admit to forgetting something nor correct their mistakes, just edit it out and rearrange your video clips please, worse case overdub your audio and don't put text on the screen, this will get you more thumbs up and more viewers and more subscribers, no worries mate.
2.0 94 mitsubishi engine, looks like an 02-03 lancer. I'm having an extremely low idle problem, getting a tap from what seems to be the purge solenoid. and a creak when it idles up. I'm assuming my iac is sticking, along with the purge valve.
Will do. I don't know much about this stuff. I got a Megasquirt system and will have to get someone to program it for me. Bit off more than I can chew.
Hi Matt, thanks for your video it is very informative. I have a Chevrolet Tacuma that is causing me a whole host of problems because I live in Britain most garages don't see them very often. I love my car, but, it has a fault that doesn't show on any computer and it has now been to 4 different garages in 6 weeks. The issues is I turn the key to start the engine and it either doesn't start but makes the usual ignition noise of a key turning. Or, it starts for a second, and peters out... I have had the crank shaft sensor replaced even though nothing came up on the Engine Management System (computer), 2 days ago the idle valve and the problem is still there that's why I watched your video to try and get some clues. If by some miracle you know what this is, I would be eternally grateful!
Leza Boyland The first thing I would do is check the fuel pressure. A bad fuel pump or something faulty in the fuel system would cause this issue. I actually had something like this happen to me before. The problem in my case was that something (a rock or something) got inside the bell housing between the engine and the transmission and got wedged between the engine flex plate and damaged the teeth. The crankshaft position sensor looks at the gear teeth as a reference to the engine position and with a couple teeth damaged the engine couldn't start. However in this case, I DID got a code for a crank sensor, but it is still a possibility in your case. If you're really getting desperate, you might want to check this. Remove the crank sensor and shine a flashlight into the bore and observe the gear teeth. Rotate the engine over completely and see if all the teeth are in good shape.
+MattsMotorz just one thing I forgot to mention and I don't know if it will change anything. This problem is intermittent, when it starts it s great, the car runs really well. But, it's just getting it to start and some days it will start fine and other days I have nothing but the problems as described previously. This means though it's totally unreliable for work etc.
Ah that is actually very different, however the issue could still be the fuel pump. Try this next time. Cycle the ignition from OFF to ON (dont crank) about 4 or 5 times before attempting to start, waiting a couple second to turn off after each cycle. When you do this,the fuel pump turns (You should be able to hear it, it will run for a couple seconds) on an primes the system. Many times the valve in the pump goes bad and drains the fuel back in the tank, leaving the fuel system empty. Priming the system 4 or 5 times pressurizes it and allows the car to start easier.
Im having issues with my Pajero IO 1.8L. I brought another IAC and coils hopefully this fixes the issue. But could the pod filter cause low rpm/uneven idle upto 2500 rpm?
nice vid. you can also remove to iac from the throttle body. start the car. then in the engine bay hold the iac and rev the engine by hand. if the iac works then the pin will move in and out as the rpm raise and fall.
Just take it off once, and bench test for continuity with multimeter. 3 pins: center is +, left is open, right pin is close i think. Reading between 20-24ohm is considered 'good'. You can also bench test IAC with a 9v battery. Just get the pinout correct. Theres a vid here that shows it on a Toyo i think..cheers
Big Love I wouldn't say "just" because that's not true. Reading the correct coil resistance values only tells you there is no short or open circuit in the coil which is a less likely problem than bearing wear or general gunk buildup causing it to not move freely or not seal when it tries to close all the way.
I just bought a new GM IAC valve on ebay for a custom setup I'm doing. It has 4 wires. Before making a mount for it, I decided to test it using a battery. I do have good OHM readings across the wires, but when I apply voltage to it, nothing happens. I used both 6 and 12 volt batteries. I don't know if it will work this way, but I'd really like to know that the valve works before I install it.
+earlyhemibill IAC valves are stepper motors. They operate by taking a square wave pulse as the input. The square wave duty cycle determines how fast it moves. Applying DC voltage will not do anything. Look up "stepper motors."
I replaced the Idle air valve for a new one and then an O2 sensor code shows up and then minutes later the code for an Idle too hight show again so the problem wasn't the Idle air Valve so what can be? 2002 montero sport 3.0
Hello Matt!!! My jeep 2000 cherokee has its check engine light on. i got it tested and it says its the idle air control valve. can i clean it or do i have too buy a new one?
+kayla reifschneider Normally cleaning doesn't ever fix anything, but I have been surprised before. If it is easy enough to get at you might as well try it, otherwise I would suggest to replacing it.
+MattzMotorz i did all the test on your iac video. everything look good im still getting a bad iac code.. clean the iac and trotted body.. do you have any dieas... thank you
upstream 02 sensors can do that too matt. I had that tricky shit in my 99 ram. especially when it was hot! like 80 plus days.... very strange. I needed the help of motoyam82 big thanks to him.
A dusk mask will not filter out vapors or fumes. You need a respirator that will filter out organic vapors. I'm not knocking you, I did not know either. Thanks for the video. Other people should not make fun of you for this and actually explain the fume problem because I did not know until last year.
im having issues with my 1996 Ford Ranger 4.0l with hard starting issues once it runs about a minute or so it clears up but has hesitation when giving it gas. I replaced the IAC valve, now while the truck is running if i unplug the wires to the IAC valve it dies a few seconds later so could the new IAC Valve be bad or is it good? i have no idea about IAC valves this is no matter if the engine is cold or warm if i pull the plug off it dies. the old IAC valve still ran the vehicle when i unplugged the wires. so im so confused on this issue
correct me if im wrong but isnt the spring a return spring and when unplugged will always move pintle back?the iacv uses magnetic field to push out pintle against spring force and wonder if second test the iacv needs to remain plugged in.just wondering. also stepper designed iacv dont move at all when unplugged i think so this might only work on certain design
One problem with this is you can't be sure if your valve is a motor, or a solenoid. If it's of the solenoid type, it'll always go to the same place when not energized, so measuring it is pointless.
Yeah, look up the video by ErictheCarGuy (but I am sure there are many videos. I haven't made one though). You spray it around places where there could be leaks (like around the intake) and if the RPM changes, it means the carb cleaner got past the seal.
what does it mean when the IAC valve is making a ticking noise? the ignition is at the on position and the radio is on but the engine is cold, when i start the engine it will slowly stop making the ticking noise. I can feel that its the Idle speed actuator. Any ideas?
Hey man, nice video! I have a Mitsubishi Outlander 2006 and it has the ENGINE LIGHT on, the computer reads "Idle Air Control Too Low". When driving and I come to a stop and try to accelerate the car, it stalls, the car turns ON again after turning the key and rides normally except when it does this. The mechanic told me I have to change a "piece" inside the throttle of the body, is this correct?
My mother has a 97 pontiac sunfire that stalls when she takes her foot off the gas any ideas of what to check first? fyi it's recently got really cold outside and this is when it started. Help please!?!
+Shannon Lewis Normally when the problem goes away when you step on the gas it is an air issue. First thing I would do is check for vacuum leaks. If everything checks out there it could be an EGR problem. The test I use for that is to unplug it and then see if it still stalls.
I used to have a car with bad idle valve the revs wouldn't drop below 1500rpm one week then the week after it would stall. Once it cleaned it was fine.
Hello, I have slight problems pulling away, when I rev the engine gently its lumpy, and when revs come down the same, what is the solution please? (Toyota Aygo)
I tried unplugging while idling but my IAC pintle stays wide open.... Would this indicate a faulty IAC valve? I cleaned it and the Throttle Body and didn't change the idle. Also, the spark plugs are black and motor oil smells like gas. So its running rich too. I also noticed the PO removed the idle screw plug... so they could have messed with the screw too. Thanks.
Hi, I also have a Lancer Cedia. It starts normally but stalls immediately after starting, unless I put my foot on the gas to rev it. It also stalls after I release my foot from the gas. Could it be a bad IAC valve?
I have the same problem on my Mitsubishi Pajero 3.5 v6. Cold start it starts fine but stalls unless I hold the gas. Did you manage to get yours fixed ?
ok I have a 2000 Nissan Altima GXE and was driving and the car cut off on me and it's a spark and gas is getting up to the fuel injectors but they're not pulsing so I was wondering what possibly it could be. and MAF sensor or the wiring around it is what I'm guessing. the ECU is good.
+Drew Williams So the car died on you, and now wont start. You have checked for spark and fuel pressure and both have come out to be good correct? (Just want to make sure I understand) Does the car sputter or anything when trying to start it? Or does it just crank and crank?
Total length from base to tip is 7/8” when it’s cold. That’s because it retracts when it’s cold. This is also know as “turtling”. George Costanza made this famous after getting out of the pool.
First thank you for your diy videos on cars , I have a issue I hope you can help me with , I have a 2007 Honda civic 1.8 liter that at idle runs very smooth but at when I drive motor get very loud , it has 200,000 miles and engine light is showing idle air control , do you have and suggestions , thx again
Hey Matt! Thanks so much for the video. I have an 04 Escape that was idling fine one day, really bad the next. Idles ok in park, still shuddering, but once in gear, the idling, rpms, speedometer, everything goes downhill. The battery light is flickering dimly so I had that replaced but the problem is still there. A few things to mention... the car has 165k miles and needs a tune up, incl. valve gasket covers. It is leaking oil and coolant (milky) and the serpentine belt, replaced one year ago, is beginning to squeak sporadically. I have no money at all, I'm female, in a town with few ppl to call if stranded, and I'm going to have to figure this out and attempt to fix it myself as this is my only mode of transportation. I know it's hard without seeing, but ANY HELP u may be able to offer would be so so appreciated. thank u so much!
+Mel Mel labelle Sounds like you have a decent amount of issues there. When the battery light comes on or flickers it is normally a sign of an alternator or charging issue. The battery light is connected to the voltage regulator in the alternator and when it isn't working properly the light comes on. You most likely need a new alternator. Is it leaking oil an coolant separately or is is leaking milky coolant / milky oil? If the coolant or oil by itself is milky then you have a big problem. For the belt, check the ribs of the belt to see if they are beginning to crack. Many times the cheap-o belts don't last long. The squealing means the belt is slipping. A serpentine belt cannot be tightened and you probably need a new one. Hope this helps!
IAC's aren't cheap (but they say I am)..just wondering if you have tried reviving one by lubing the piston or working the pin back and forth, or do they usually die electrically...and I guess used ones would be risky..thanks for the helpful VID...
Oilsmoke Jones Normally you cannot move the pintle at all by hand because they are stepper motors. I never tried to revive one so I don't have much information in that respect. :\
Thank you... Man your smart I was wondering all the same things with my evaporated sensor on my Cadillac because when cold it runs fine but at soon as its hot it stumbles and no vacuum leaks... And that was it... Thanks info video for sure,,, and not those stupid techs with all kinds of unnecessary ridiculous gadgets that most people don't have... Ol school remedy use your eyes, hands, ears👍 hey can't I slap some of your viewers😂😂😂
Help!😭😭 😭 My 97 Geo metro is reving up and down in park after it warms up. Normal when in drive, but idles high when in drive. When I let go of the brake it brings me to 20 mph. It's as if I'm pressing the gas.😤I'm wasting gas!😩 All is well if i unplug the IAC valve. They say if that happens, it means it's defective. Should I replace it or clean it or check for vacuum leaks or indpect Throttle position censor? or was the unplugging test good enough to know it's bad?
Please can someone help me. I have a 95 mit eclipse sr I dont have power to the idle speed control. I replaced it with a new one, still no power, new computer, power turned on but its out again, checked all the wires, put new connectors....
Damn I should have! I already replaced it. Before replacing it, the engine would run fine when cold, but after it warmed up it would bog down and sometimes stall after revving or when under load. It would also run really rough until you step on the gas. This was because the valve was stuck open.
@@MattsMotorz I have the opposite problem: runs fine when hot, sometimes stalls when cold. Could it still be the IACV? Like maybe it's stuck closed instead of open?
When you talk about unplugging it while the engine is running you are describing a situation specific to only that style of "pintle" as you call it. Many are spring loaded and return to a specific position the moment power is disconnected, or will just freely move around without a spring and worn bearing.
Hey Matt my 1997 Chevy Silverado idles poorly and the motor kinda rocks and then after a minute it just stalls even if u give it gas it still just stalls on me idk what to do
Mudboggin22 Well if you give it gas and the problem doesn't get better than it is likely not any kind of vacuum leak. Next thing I would do is hook a fuel pressure gauge on it and monitor the fuel pressure as it stalls to see if it is getting starved of fuel.
As I stop at a crossing my car's RPM's dip to 500, then after a few seconds it starts to slowly trickle to 800 or 900 RPM's, could this be the problem?
Mine does the same thing I changed out the TPS and the IAC so far. And checking the codes don't tell you crap. Mine just tells me it's he faulty idle and I'm like 'No shit'.
If it's only dropping idle with the brake applied the check your brake booster valve, pull it out and see if you can breathe in and out through the valve , if you can it's bad.Also check the hose and make sure it's not vacuum line related . Good luck . Also check Mass sensor
+Princess Jordyn Yes it could be either of those things. To check the EGR, remove it from the engine and blow compressed air through the port to see if it is stuck open. If it is not stuck open, then it isn't likely the EGR. Sometimes vacuum leaks can cause the same issue. Check for vacuum leaks by spraying carb cleaner all around the intake manifold and vacuum lines and see if the idle changes (do this while the engine is cold since carb cleaner is flammable). If it wont stay on for you to do this, have someone hold the gas down.
i removed the throttle body today and cleaned the IAC and the throttle body inlet however i must have dropped the screws to the TPS sensor. so i held it on and it didnt change the idle any . Mystery this car has been.
Dillard, look for the inexpensive causes first. Try this before you clean the mass air flow sensor or check anything else. First check for water in your fuel. If that is OK drive up and down a steep hill. Listen and note any changes in how the engine runs. If there are changes and it still stalls you probably need to replace the fuel filter.
Im gonna try this. But is a car supposed to not start with iac unplugged? I unplugged it and tried to start it and it barely turned over then died. 98 explorer btw
Yes he is correct. You should direct the exhaust inside the car since you're not in there you're working under the hood. That way the exhaust gases won't get you.
