Thank you 🙏. I’m using this pump for a aux transfer tank in my truck I wanted to pump it through a filter before it went to tank instead of gravity. It also goes through a two position valve so I can kidney loop the diesel.
Been using one these to push and filter waste veg oil through two 10" common water house filters 20,10 micron and straight into my diesel fuel tank 1HZ Toyota engine. They work hard and go good, can reverse polarity to make then pump backwards. I know of ppl that have used them for years pumping 1000 ltr IBC veg oil. I thought they were no good to start off with as would start stop, start stop and not pump much through. As waste veg oil from fish chip shops often has particles and junk in it. I learned it had to have a Y trap mesh bout 80-120 micron pre-filter and that fixed everything it flowed like a gem for ages. I normally use it for 20Ltrs at a time. If filtering veg oil it is a good idea to put a DPDT reversible current switch on and clear hoses, when you see some creamy veg oil coming up the line can quickly stop the pump and reverse it to clear that junk out that you don't want. When you stated high PSI i wander if it could supply 80 degrees Celsius heated oil to a centrifuge needing 80-100 psi but i don't think it could keep up to it. But if anyone has tried this successfully please comment to let me know.
Same thing as the AmarineMade version? Part number is the same: FP-12. I picked one up with the idea of setting up a prelube pump: just purge/fill oil galleys and move just a little through the pushrods after sitting a few days or more. What I got came with fittings to suit 12mm hose. The pump ends are threaded: appears to be parallel ISO threads, of 3/8" BSPP [19 tpi]. Fittings supplied are decent but minimal, in that you have 5 thread engagement, but there is room for 8 or 9 if you want more robust fitting install. I do wish there was just a little more area on pump body for positionable 90 degree fittings with an o-ring seal - that way suction and discharge can point the same direction to make install & maintenance a touch easier.. There's room for an o-ring [just] but shoulder area to keep it captured needs another 2mm or so all the way around for those type of fittings generally - the casting is minimal. Decent bang for the buck purchase, but BSP has to be explained to 98% of auto parts stores you meet: P has no taper, T has roughly half the included angle vs npt, and... zero chance its on any aisle now, or at any time since... ever. Nothing npt is interchangeable with this standard, not even 1/8" which has the same thread pitch but since taper is different... a mix & match on that size leaves something just under 2 thread engagement - no amount of teflon will save the day when pressure is applied. Theres a flaw in my pending install: Ive got to find out what the psi ceiling is that overloads the motor and spec a reief valve. Got a DC amp clamp somewhere... and thank you: nice test & review.
I’m shopping for one of these to prime a passer gear on a QR25DE. I’ll have to make a fitting to the cam gear cover to fill the phaser with oil bcs it’s not staying locked during startup bcs I have cams and harder springs bcs it’s a turbo build and the phaser isn’t equipped to hold the valve spring tension on the cam lobes although everything is new as well as phaser. ANYHOW... I don’t know if I DO or DONT need a return bcs the phaser does have two in&out oil passage ways and any extra oil would just flow into the rest of the motor, idk... there’s not a lot of information that I need about the technicalities of the QR25DE so that I can fabricate the prime pump for the phaser. How has your pump treated you so fast and was it over $60?
What I don't understand about these pumps is that they are promoted as a pump to scavenge oil from a turbo or to circulate oil for diff coolers. But then they say that the pump has a 30 minute duty cycle. So you can only drive for 30 minutes at a time?
It's Chinesium: thrash it, and see where it gives out - AvE would. Since duty cycle is generally expressed as a percent... 30 minutes vs a complete unknown means what? Something failed in translation. Maybe this needs a pwm controller for dedicated scavenging? A 30% duty cycle would slow it down and in doing that also avoids some of the pitfalls we saw from high pressure. But mainly, this pump seems aimed at transfer: the test we saw [1 quart in 5 seconds] applied to a 30 minute run time suggests 180gph transfer rate. Freightliner tank? About 150 gallons I believe. A D5 dozer? About 80 gallons. A 60 foot yacht? 1900 gallons... and tanks need balancing to trim list periodically. List of applications is gigantic.
If that is a fuel pump I would hate to be the one who used that to transfer any fuel to a tank!! They must have hoped the first run of Diesel fuel would clean it out and no one would ever notice.
Mine has a current rating of 6.5 amps @12vdc 12 lpm & was drawing 24 amps & switching on & off & found the carbon brush leads were long & shorting on motor shell inside
I am assuming that if it's marketed as a turbo scavenge pump that it must be rated for continuous service? How hot does it get when run continuously for a couple of hours?
Naughty Goat Farm I've only run it for a minute or so and it didn't get warm. Considering the poor quality of this pump I would not recommend it for something critical like a turbo scavenge pump. I only used it for priming the engine, not a critical application.
Also buddy,... could I draw oil from the filter’s sandwich plate for priming the phaser gear like I described in my last comment? The outlet on the sandwich plate is just like the outlet for the turbo oil feed line.
For priming purposes you can draw from the engine's oil pickup, but you MUST ensure that that the engine's oil pump CANNOT draw from the Tee-d line to the primer or the engine will lose oil pressure. This can be accomplished with a one-way check valve. You can source these from a hydraulic supply store.
Richard Mathews ..... so connecting the scavenge pump to one of the sandwich plate’s oil outlet will draw oil through the filter first and secondly from the oil’s pickup tube? I know an oil filter has some kind of one way flap inside the canister but I haven’t gotten far enough into this project to know if the pump will pull oil through the filter without discrepancy... I won’t need to worry about a check valve bcs the oil filter’s adapter only sends oil out, it does not accept auxiliary oil.
The outlet size hose needs to be unrestricted eg smaller hose diameter along the outlet hose otherwise it will draw 24amps & cause the thermal switch to switch on & off every 20 to 30 seconds so if the outlet is 3/8 you need to use 3/8 or bigger with no restrictions if your barbed outlet is 1/2” you need to use 1/2” or bigger hose/pipe
I've had this pump on my turbo VW beetle. It's very loud without rubber mounts. I made that mistake and then fixed it. It's also VERY heavy for what it is. The unit I got was pretty clean, so obviously you got a bad one with all that crud. I will say though, I'm still working through oil scavenging issues. I might be the pump, It's kinda hard to tell. But like you say, it seem to pump really well. The issue will be getting it to pump foamy hot oil from a turbo.
I tucked those leads out of the way against the plastic end cap away from motor case/shell some kind of thin insulation sheet could be put on inside of motor case to prevent carbon brush leads shorting
It's not an EBAY product, it's a 3rd party seller named "SingFlo" which made this oil suction pump and it was purchased from Ebay. Everyone blames EBay for shit that don't work, not the manufacturer.
+McKinney Texas Zeds - 100% CORRECT !!!! - People are STUPID, what can I say? They are like DOGS.... Find the quickest hole to crawl through, but if they take a bit of time. There might be a better path, LOL.
Hey just watched ur video im doin a stand alone oil feed for my turbocharged bike are u still using the pump or did it die.. did u have any other problems with it
Check current draw with no load on it then with a load 20 amps is alot of current for that pump motor there is a thermal switch inside glued to the end cap at 20amps you will find it will start/stop intermittently because it heats up at 20 amps & trips the thermal switch then when it cools the thermal switch automatically resets & motor will run again
Yes it could. It has great suction and does not need to be primed. These pumps are originally listed as marine oil change pumps. You could thread a fitting into the oil pan drain plug hole with a hose attached. Run the hose well above the oil level and plug the hose end. When you are ready to change the oil connect the pump to the hose and direction the discharge into a pail and power the pump. The professional marine pumps cost about $700. For just pumping out old oil this is all you need.
