Echo 620PW with 32" Bar Buried in Red Oak 

Glad you like the video. My son had a good time running the camera. You won't be disappointed in the 620. It's a fantastic saw. I've had it for three and a half years and have had zero problems with it. As long as the chain is sharp it rips through pretty much anyting.

You won't regret it. It's fantastic saw.

Me too

It's a great saw for sure. I would love to try out one of the new 7310 saws. They only weigh half a pound more but have 22% more power. I think at this point the perfect combination if you've got the budget for it would be a 501P and a 7310. I'd run an 18" on the 501 and a 28" on the 7310 with a 36" available for really big wood. I'm about to buy a 355T for limbing and small stuff. I don't think you can go wrong with any of Echo's pro saws.

@@theinternets7516 your 620 earned its keep that day ! Love my 490 501 620 and just ordered the 7310 w 24" and feel like a kid waiting on Sanny Clause . Cheers

@@sundial6919, I would love to have a 7310 but just can't justify it. I'm waiting on a 361P to come in right now. Same feeling. I can't wait to get some cutting done with it.

@@theinternets7516 I dunno, the thing about the 7310 is it comes very detuned stock. I have the CS590 and bought the 7310 6 weeks ago, the 7310 doesn't seem a whole lot more than the CS590 stock. Yes, it's all broken in about 25 tanks. Echo built a saw that could be modified very easily here, you won't get the most out of it unless you get it ported. I'm actually selling my CS590 for a 620PW (when they finally come back into stock in July!) so I'll know more then. if the 620 is even close the the 7310 I'm gonna sell it.

@@gordonhenderson1965, unless you need to run more than a 28 inch bar you'd be better off to sell the 7310. If you do need a longer bar then get the 7310 broken in and tuned up and I think you'll be happy with the extra power. I use a demo model 7310 but the chain was so dull it was hard to tell much about the saw. I told the echo rep he'd better sharpen the chain on it if he hoped to sell any.

I tuned the carburetor but it's otherwise as it came from the factory. I had considered doing some modifications but runs great and didn't want to void the warranty.

@@theinternets7516 thanks. Well-tuned this saw. It really performs

Lol. I'm not sure what it weighs but it is HEAVY. I'd guess 300-400 lbs. I ended up cutting it across the middle and taking it off ½ at a time. Thanks for watching and commenting!

The echo 620p is a real sweet saw. I have a video with a shorter bar in seasoned red oak. I love all my echo products.

@@whiskeytangofoxtrot9403, I'll definitely check that out. I really don't think you can go wrong with the 620 unless you're in really big wood every day and at that point the 7310 is definitely the way to go.

I've been very happy with it. It does get heavy on long days but otherwise I have no complaints. If you're not going to need a 24" bar or larger I'd say a 501p is probably the best all around saw. I'm looking to buy a 361p in the near future for smaller stuff because even though I love the power of the 620 sometimes you just don't want or need a saw that's that big. Thanks for watching and commenting!

It depends on what kind of cutting you do, and how big the wood is. I currently do farm maintenance, firewood, and creating cleared pasture "bubbles" on our brushy/wooded lot. I've used the little 3510 extensively for brushing, limbing, trail maintenance, etc. I HAVE bucked a few logs with it that were over it's paygrade - because its light weight lets me get it to certain problems easier. I've fallen countless 14" trees with it. For 35cc it'll chooch. That being said it's night and day difference when you run a 50 or 60cc saw in the big stuff. Intended Use is everything. If I were just cutting fallen off my trails and fencing, a 3510 would be my only saw. When I throw in "and remove the wood for the woodyard" that 620p steps in (and probably a 4910 maybe next year) If you are going to go with ONE SAW for as long as possible, id stick with a 4910/501p. With the right chain/grind you can make them pretend to be big saws, and they are a lot lighter. I did about everything with a stihl 026, and then an ms271 for a long time. But that MS271 was what converted me to echos 😄

@@mattfleming86 Thanks Matt! I since figured out I need the smallest saw I can use to do the job. I'm not going to be doing a lot of firewood. I get caught up in a project and want to get more tool than I need.(What guy hasn't?) I'll probably leave it sit in the shed, so if I get one I think I'll go the smallest saw route. It seems to get past a 20" bar you are getting into expensive saw big saw territory. My beloved late sister-in-law was a Fleming. She was pretty awesome cancer took her years ago. She was from NY. Thanks for the info!

@@theinternets7516 The way I see it, if you "rarely" need to get through big wood, a little 4910 is light enough to do storm damage all day and not kill ya, have enough beans to do so at a reasonable pace, and in a pinch you could buck a 30" tree from both sides with an 18" bar and have room to spare. If the trees on your property are on the smaller side, go 3510. Even doing firewood and farm maintenance my 3510 is still doing more than half the work...

I expect it will be going for many years to come. It's been great.

The carb is adjusted for a 24" bar. If I were going to consistently cut with this 30" bar I would definitely do a carb tune.

It seemed to do okay. The oiler can be adjusted as well if you find that your bar is getting hot.

@@theinternets7516 yea I have a 590 and guys told me anything over 28" and it wouldn't oil enough. It's the same oiler though. Appreciate the reply, thanks!

The 32" crosscut through oak was definitely maxing it out. I can't imagine trying to mill with a bar that size. I know the ripping bar use a narrower chain so that might make up the difference but I would look at a bigger saw if you really want to mill stuff wider that 18"-20". I'll pass on the positive feedback to Cooper. He was very excited to get to do the camera work. Thanks for watching and commenting!

Did the 32inch bar just fit or did you modify it? Is it the one for the 7310? They told me the 32" would only fit on the 7310. I meant to say (can't ) in the last comment. I would only mill once in a blue moon as I don't have access to big logs. But if there's a 32" bar that will fit I'd rather do that then let a $1000 sit around collecting dust with the 7310. I have smaller saws 14 & 16" I use for Ice carving and trimming small trees. 7310 is money I can use for other workshop additions... A ripping bar and chain will cut smoother and smaller kerf. Not necessarily a huge difference in speed I was told by a few guys. They said a few seconds faster but since I'm a rookie to milling ..... No difference, lol.. in an Alakan mill you loose a couple bar inches and I'd like to get up to 26 to 28" on a slab when that occasion comes around. Thanks for any advise. Your little guy looks alot like my 8yr old. Hanging with Dad doin' manly stuff.. :-)

@@Lotto123630, the 32" bar fits without any modifications but it's not the same bar they use on the 7310P. The 7310P is a Husqvarna bar mount. You'll need to find a 32" bar that's made for a 680P. As for finding that in a milling bar I don't know.

Thank you! The mount is the biggest deal and you answered it. I knew the 7310's wouldn't match up, but your 680P was the answer I needed.

@@Lotto123630, happy to help!

I got the 32" bar for use every now and then. The 24" does 95% of what I need. The 32" and three chains was a better option than $800 for a new saw that wouldn't get much use.

Running that bar won't hurt the crank bearings.

Pulling on that bar, after its been pinched in the cut absolutely will. 620 definitely have some torque for a 60cc saw. Ported no problem. Full skip and a razor sharp chain will help remedy that. And I dare you to go into a dealer tell them that you used a bar OVER their recommended length and see what happens. Better have the gift of gab or a sweet pair of tits to convince them otherwise.

@@jerseyjoshua4818, I was using a brand new full skip chain in this video. I was very happy with the performance.

@@theinternets7516 I totally understand man. I was just correctly informing the fellow above me. Not trying to high jack this comment section

Stock. I'd like to do a muffler mod but it's still under warranty so I hate to mess with it at this point. Honestly though, as well as it does the muffler mod isn't a must.

@@theinternets7516 The way that saw pulls stock, I absolutely wouldn't void the warranty. 28" full comp and 32" skip... very impressive for a stock 60cc. I honestly don't know of any other stock 60cc chainsaw thats simply as strong as the 620.

@@obeconoberougle9497, I agree with 100% on that. In my initial review of this saw, I said that I felt like it was the best saw for the money. I still stand by that 100%. The MS 362 is a really nice saw and has a tad more power and weighs about a pound and a half less but in my opinion it's not worth the extra $300. I would definitely buy this 620pw again.

@@theinternets7516 362 is a nice saw as long as the M-tronic carb functions properly. And it's lighter than both the 620P and 620PW like you said. It is rated at a higher hp, but from reviews I've seen an read of people that have or had both. They claim the 620 will out cut the 362. I think its because the 620 probably has a longer stroke, which means less hp, but more torque. I know the Stihl is factory rated to run up to a 25" bar whereas the Echo a 27/28" bar.

@@obeconoberougle9497, I think you're probably right about the echo having more torque.

It's not ideal. I'll give you that, but if you only need it once or twice a year it's better than spending $800-$1000 on a saw that won't get much use.

@@theinternets7516 Good point. It got the job done. Unless you’re a professional tree surgeon who can afford a 572 or 462 to use once a year or less and collect dust. It did better than I thought it would.