What a great video. Replaced my clutch and ran an entire tank of fuel through before I realized it wasn't oiling. Why didn't I watch this first. Thanks for the great vid, Lester. I learned a ton.
Thank you so much for making this video! You definitely helped me to replace the oil pump on my CS-620P saw that was no longer working. Three of the gear teeth on the old pump gave up. The saw oils great again with a new pump!
Good video Lester. I run almost exclusively Echo equipment other than some ancient Poulan saws that I just like having. The cs590 is one of the most versatile saws we run it’s big enough to handle most jobs but not so heavy that it wears you out. The vibration isn’t bad either. I like Echoes warranties better than every other brand I’ve tried but I don’t really have much trouble with them.
Very good video. I just bought a cs590, and learning about this machine means the difference in cutting and not doing so. Besides, doing your own mechanic work save a bundle!
Wow, Lester, this one got a lot more comments than some others! As I see more and more different saws it's interesting to me how different manufacturers address the the bar oiling concept. Some, like the Stihls I've seen so far, use a plastic worm gear, which to me is kind of crazy with that little rod that sticks out only on one side. Then there's ones like this Echo, which have a far more robust system with a rotating bar that engages 180 degrees apart and a separate metal worm gear that easily slides off. The Husqvarna's I've seen so far (rebadged Poulans and Craftsmans) that have a slide on spring-type worm gear that requires either a factory tool (no longer available), a DIY tool (what I'll be fabricating when I can get the parts) or flat-bladed screwdrivers and patience to get the gear off and a socket to put it on (but then having to make sure the coils are spaced correctly and the bottom coil is seated in the crankshaft groove). I think I like Echo the best so far. Then there's the Homelite XL Automatic Oiler (I've got two I'm restoring to flip) which has an impulse-driven diaphragm oiler - a completely different concept altogether. Never mind the manual oilers on a lot of older saws! ;-)
I replaced the sprocket on my 620p I could not get the c clip back on then you explained the notches had to align with oil pump and it fit no problem thanks for the information
Great video. I had the opposite happen. The connecting piece on my hedge trimmer attachment sticks out too much and won’t slide in. Any videos on how I can fix that?
Whats up bud nice vid man i actually learned how to do the work myself im a new sub here today and a local service an repair shop told me it would be 74$ plus parts to service and repair my CS 590 echo chainsaw. The hell with that ill do it myself what tools did you use?
I replaced mine and it doesn't change at all. It has a roll pin that only allows 1/4 turn. I removed the pin to try to close the flow and the whole adjuster comes loose. I tried 8 different amounts of turns and it still oils excessively.
I have the same saw. Is it normal for this saw to get so gunked up with oil literally over the saw or is that because of the oiler problem? Also I think the oil on the bolts is making it difficult to keep the chain tight? Mine also clanks when running, now I know it is normal for that saw. Thank you very much for this video.
I was considering buying one of these. Is the oiler covered u see the 5 yr warranty? And how much use are people getting out of these before this happens. I want to buy a saw for about 20 hours of use per year.
Hi Lester, great video. I have question on. Stihl FS38. Could a totally plugged muffler blow out the crank seals or block gasket. Mine was totally plugged and now I can’t dial in the carb, so I’m thinking air leak. I know I’ll have to take out the engine, do I need to split it to put in new crank seals? Unfortunately, I don’t have the means to do a vacuum or pressure test. Thanks
Amazon, but you can get by without one if you're careful and this is an infrequent repair. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-JEfyzfxK6_o.html
I've tried to get the right clutch removal tool for this saw twice now from amazon. both times it said it was for the CS-590. Neither time did they work. Any ideas on where to get the right CRT? Thanks
Are you sure the bar, sprocket, chain are the same pitch? Have you replaced either one of those components recently that might have been mismatched? Maybe a new chain on a worn sprocket?
Do you know how or can you tell me how to replace the chain brake spring? I had to replace all the chain brake components but can not get the spring on.
@@lesteroliveintheshop9825 I just wanted to let you know I actually got that spring on & in place, that was a pain in the @as but it's done and the chain brake is operating as designed. Just wanted to give you a heads up and save you the time from irritation 😂
You can also lock the chain brake and pop the throttle once or twice. The left hand threads cause it to tighten in use. As long as it doesnt spin off initially, it's a self solving problem. I just go till "snug" and let the horses under the cover wrench it tight.
Hey Lester, Bc of ur video, I did this w/o a problem. Yet it still isn’t pushing oil out right. I cleaned clogging areas but still no real flow (new oiler). Any thoughts on things that could cause this? I checked without bar and oil slowly comes out so I thought maybe the b/c oil wasn’t warm enough. I let warm up. Still nothing. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
@jaredglass2562 this was a great vid appreciated it cause I learned to do the work myself instead of a local repair shop that was gonna end up costing me over a 100 bucks .
