In this video I now have the Kennedy Engineering motor adapter so I go over how to check out everything for a good fit. Then I bolt and torque on the adapter, flywheel and clutch. And then I install the motor.
Michael Rhoades, Yeah I expected there to be some issues. Nothing to major. Collect what you can so when you start the swap you can rock and roll on it. Thanks for the comment.
Hi! I´ve been following your build from a while, and using most of your tips (as much as I can, money here is an issue), trying to get a rear suspension like yours I found a ford T-bird rear suspension with basically the same configuration, so I adapted it to my bug. I really admire you and your craftsmanship, and I hate you ´cause I can´t follow your rythm building my bug hahahahaha. The good thing about it, is that when I start building something, you already built a better version and I can follow the new one hahaha. However, your videos are very educational and motivating. Keep up the good job!
Hello Carrillo, thanks for the comment. It was really nice and I love hearing stories like this. I'm so glad the videos are helping you some with your build. Using existing parts like you are to integrate into your design is an excellent way to save some money and time. Especially if you can get them from a doner car or junkyard. Good luck with the build, and reach out to me if you have any questions.
Being watching your vids and your doing a lovely job on the baja. I personally would have stuck with the original vw engine, i noticed CB performance do big stroker dub motors which would have delivered great torque and power plus kept it very light.. But its your baja and i respect your decision.. still very keen to see how it all works for you.. just subbed... keep em coming cheers from Tasmania....
Hey Buddy, Welcome to the channel, good to have you on the team. lol It has been interesting seing the differences between the air cooled and Ecotec so far. My Bug was really light and simple with the air cooled motor. It was a little heartbreaking taking that out and adding all the components to operate the Ecotec. I hope it's worth it. The air cooled is safely in the basement, so we might see it again. ;-)
The engines from CB performance are really high dollar, you can get a ectec for what 250 dollars and have 160+ HP takes more money to get 160 HP from a VW engines, I know all about it I've played with VWS for a long time, still do some
Not sure if the plug end is the same , or if it will even fit, but both the cam position sensors on a 2011 chevy Cruze come out of the sensor straight, yours turns 90 degrees. And they are 3 wire. Might be worth looking into prior to moving the fuel cell. Part # SU13343 from autozone is the intake side.
Holy cow! Good tips with part numbers, nice. I'll look into it. I might need to mess with the fuel cell either way for access to the rear of the block but this might give me some options. Thanks!
For once, someone takes the time to show folks how they do some of the wild builds they do. My 8 yr. old has really shown some interest in our bug build...
sweet ....my buddy is a fabricator and mounted one of these eco tecs in a 1988 bmw e30..he also mounted it inline using a toyota 5 speed trans... turbocharger..custom intake and intercooler with header...thing was a rocket til he rolled it..whoo hoo
@@DougBugBuilder "was pretty quick" he rolled it...a car he built before this bmw.. i mentioned was a 63 bug, he put a street ported 13b rotary in it..which as you know must be water cooled..he seen the idea out of a 70s custom bug mag and figured it would be cool..the thing was a rocket! scarey fast off the line! he rapped that one around a light standard as well!
"Accessing this bolt for me is almost impossible" Seems like that's pretty common on completely stock vehicles both classic and new, European and American. Looks fun.
Hey Mike, hope you don't mind I have recommended your channel to a couple people, it would be a shame for someone that's in to Baja's not to be able to enjoy your work!
Hey Mike, I know you stand behind Lincoln welders so I have been spending a lot of time looking at the Lincoln 210 mp, the reviews on the stick and mig are really good, the tig seems to be ok, but I guess you have to wire up the foot pedal, but i'm ok with that.i have a couple of questions I see that most of the time I am seeing gas with the mig welding is that when you don't have flux core wire or do you always need gas to weld mig, and do you recommend gas? and my other question is can you mig and tig aluminum with this machine. thanks Mike
That welders tig process is not AC, so it won't do aluminum. Don't buy it. You really have to step up in the welders to get AC tig. You will really need two welders. One for mig and one for tig. The benefit is you can get the mig now and in a couple years if your fab skills are still growing you can get an AC tig and start tigging aluminum. www.homedepot.com/p/Lincoln-Electric-180-Amp-Weld-Pak-180-HD-MIG-Wire-Feed-Welder-with-Magnum-100L-Gun-Gas-Regulator-MIG-and-Flux-Cored-Wire-230V-K2515-1/100670932 For the money I think that is the best Lincoln welder for Mig. It will do mig or flux core. If you do mig you will need gas. The gas will be a mixture of Argon and CO2. If you do flux core you wont need any gas. The Lincoln Square Wave Tig 200 is a good choice for a garage tig welder that will rock and roll aluminum. For tig you will need 100% Argon for your shielding gas. Almost any tig welder will stick weld as well. Of course there are no name brand welders for a fraction of the price. That's up to you. They are likely fairly good. All I can say is both of my welders are 20+ years old, local supply houses support them. And when I go out into the garage both of those welders look at me and say "what are we welding today"!
Mike , right now I have a brand new Chicago .stick welder and a new dual mig, I bought both from my neighbor for 150, they both came with carts, rod ,wire, helmet, and and a big fat book on everything you need to know about welding. Mike I couldn't pass this up for the price, these are only temporary, I will be getting much better quality stuff soon. would you agree this is a good way to practice on small welding to sorta get the hang of it. I have already built a little dog for my wife and I had a blast doing it. now I know why its called stick welding, but after a while I was going along pretty good, then it got fun. again these cheap welders are only temporary! Now time for another episode of Doug Bug
Mike that's perfect! A great way to dip into the waters and test some stuff out, for $150 that's a steal. Now you can fiddle around and casually look at an upgrade if you decide to go that route.
Filling these with oil/doing filter changes in a beetle kinda suck, but the ecotec is a great swap. Wiring is super easy too! Just make sure to get your oe pcm security hacked (if you're running that) or it won't start.
I'm learning a lot. How do you sleep I don't sleep I think to much best time for me is when I sleep ive. Fixéd a lot of stuff in my sleep and repair next day I think I'm nuts sometimes
I worked with 54 techs at one time a big Toyota dealérship we sometime fixed problems with new cars write reports for Toyota for warrentee suggest ways to fix problems Toyota ahead of the rest great car .I spent 23 years there and my dad owned the oldest Volvo dealership in america first ducatti and subura also I don't no anything else no I'm disabled at least they tell me I am got hit head on.sucks but I can sleep in
The bolts for the motor mounts were dictated by the threads that were already in the side of the Ecotec motor. If I remember correctly they were 12mm x 1.25mm.
Awesome video, thank you for taking the time to post it. Was the flywheel modified at all to fit the VW transmission/clutch/pressure plate or does it happen to work for that particular swap?
Thorvald Moen, This flywheel comes with the kit and is machined to fit the VW transaxle with 200mm flywheel. So on one end it is machined just like a VW flywheel and on the other end it is machined to mate with an Ecotec 6 bolt crankshaft, and when it it designed/machined the proper offsets are put in it. I paid a little extra to have it lightened, but that didn't affect any of the fitment. I hope that answers your question.
Great videos. I think it's crazy that the adapter costs twice as much as the engine! How hard would it be to build your own adapter, to keep it really cheap? You just tripled your budget!
Yeah I agree. We need a couple million more people to start buying these adapters to drive the costs down. I don't have machine tooling big enough to make anything like that. Otherwise I would. Thanks for the comment bud.
That would work.....But would really take a lot of work because of all the connection points I made on the transaxle. There would be a lot of fabrication involved. Not like that ever stopped me before though. Thanks for the idea though.
Doug Bug you're welcome and I wasn't thinking about the work that's already been done.. but the the downfall to custom projects they never seem to find a true finished point. Always somthing that can be improved or changed up.
Adapter kit is awsum I wounded if I could put a fwd motor and trans from Camry 2.2 or 2.4 and use axles and struts just put it from for front to rear amazing work your doing what do you do for living
Doug. Ls motor L's 3 heads L's x or L's 1. Use crank use càm head work to L's 3 heads. They prove time and time HP come from L's 3 heàds. Stock short block head work ànd ls3 and high lift. Can. Ànd in return over 1000 horse power the best design in ten years racing guys are going nuts L's motors I've not done one but I'm sure I can I e built hundreds of engines I'm a problem fixer alluminum engine blowi hg head vskt because studs were pulling from block we fixed made inserts for blocks new studs ne2 nuts lß motors next on my list after I fix my roof hericanetook a little roof out I'm in north Carolina. Burgas nc
I don't run a T-stat on this engine. The temperature is controlled by the electric fans on the radiator. I got the air out using a plug as a bleeder on the leaving port for the radiator line up near the valve cover.
Hi Doug. I have a few questions I hope you can help me with. I live in Australia and from what I can gather there are no aftermarket Baja bug suspension kits available. Do you know of any in the US that I could use/talk to. I am interested in doing something very similar regarding suspension but to get home made suspension through engineering here in Oz would be near impossible. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Great video's keep them coming and hope to hear from you soon. Have a great Christmas
rottysaurus, You can't buy an A Arm setup like mine, that's a one off that I made myself. However there are some companies that make good trailing arms for the front or rear suspension. Try Kar-tek Offroad, Appletree Automotive, Chirco, and Air Cooled.net. These are all companies that carry good parts. Hope that helps!
Nope, the oil returns just fine, and no problem with oil pressure either. Every time I have the valve cover off the timing chain looks like it's getting plenty of oil too. I will say I do keep it up to the top on the dipstick. And leaned back that's a bit of extra oil. But I haven't had any issues.
The downfalls would be that the stock transmission isn't really meant for that kind of power. So it makes the likely hood of breaking the transmission really high.
My favorite is the LE5 block with the VVT. The VVT really helps with low end torque. It reminds me of the old Honda XR bikes. They growl at the low end, but keep chugging along. Mine is an LE5 and it came from a 2007 Cobalt.
I would stay focused on keeping whatever ground clearance you have due to future losses with some type of skid plate protection. Also center of gravity and overall balance something to keep in mind. Nothings perfect and you have the skills to change things later. I enjoy your thought process
Hey EZGZ, You are right. My first plan is to look into the oil return in the head of the motor. I don't want to change the angle. I like it and it helps with the tail draggi'n. I just need to make sure the oil can drain out of the head.
No, the brackets I used were on the engine in the chevy Cobalt when I picked it at the junkyard. I used those to set it in the chassis as well. Then once it was in there I unbolted them.
This is the stock VW starter. It bolts in the original location and everything. The Ecotec has a provision for a starter. But with the adaptor flywheel you retain the original starter in the original location in the VW transaxle.
Doug Bug. I am doing a engine swap in my Baja. My engine is a Mitsubishi Lancer 2.0 only because own the car where I don't have to buy another engine. Wondering if you can help me about the ECM. Do you know if the place how did your do other car manufacturers ECMs?
Doug Bug. Thanks!! What did you use to hold your fenders on with? You drilled a hole and insert the peace in & the tool name. I'm going to get some of them. You didn't mention what they wear in your video. Thanks for all the video's you are very good!
David, Throse are called rivit nuts. Here is an example of a kit similar to mine. amzn.to/2BmCzLF The rivit nuts I used on those fenders were 5/16-18. The tool I used is an industrial one from McMasterr Carr. It was like $180. But the link I gave you there is for a similar one just not as industrial. The choice is yours. ;-) Make some test sets first to get comfortable with it before you drill into the bug. Once you get the hang of it they are great though.
Didn't even think about that, a rotary would be a pretty cool motor to hang off the back there. I guess the answer is because I don't have any experience with the rotary motors.
Cali Coca, Thanks bud, I am still going to monitor the oil return just to be safe. If needed I can add a drain line at the rear of the head back into the oil pan. But with you saying it should be ok I'm going to just keep an eye on it. You can always email me direct at dougbugbuilder@gmail.com. Thanks.
