Your welcome sir. I have to let other people fix for me, on the road a lot so no place to do the work. Videos like yours helps me "guide" the technicians in the repairs. Keep it up!
bought a new egr valve because I didn't know you could clean them and it could fix it. but found one online for $30. if it wasn't for these RU-vid videos I'd spend hundreds of dollars at a garage. thanks for sharing your videos
sooo true, sometimes cleaning valve will not stop code from disappearing. I too had to just buy the valve cost under $30. Some oil change shop charges $299+ for "cleaning egr valve"
One thing I do if taking loose or putting on a bolt or nut in a tight spot is to place enough tape (masking tape, duct tape, whatever) sticky side out , inside the socket to hold the nut in place while starting it (or removing it). I'm a subscriber on your pen site and didn't know about this one..... so had to subscribe also. Thanks for the video !
I replaced head gaskets, lower intake manifold gasket, valve cover gaskets, fuel injector o-rings, exhaust manifold gaskets, and the plenum gaskets on a 99 3.1liter for 40 dollars. got the gasket kit without the head bolts for $32 ordered through eBay. everything was right except the plenum gaskets. so for $7 at O'Reilly's she was done. ran like new for about 100 miles then I got a Egr error code. (don't remember the wording for the code). I pulled the valve off and it looked pretty good to be 20 years old! 😊 but it was sticking....been running good for a while now. the engine parts were easy, it was the dang plug wire boots stuck on the plugs, rewrapping most of the wiring harness (it just disintegrated from heat and time), making my own fuel line tool to remove the lines, and of course the egr valve sticking........little things like that which takes more time. but if you don't need the car for a couple days and can work at a pace, its worth it. moms car wasn't worth much before, but it only had 120,000 on it over 20 years. I wouldn't feel bad about selling it now....after I drive it a little first since I did save a ton of money.😊
You did a boat load of work. I’ll bet it was a job but well worth it for that kind of money. I’ll bet the engine runs smooth too. Thank you for sharing. Regards, Bob
Thank you very much for this video, Bob. Just may save myself some money. When I put nuts in a socket of a socket wrench and have to aim the open end of the socket downward, using plumbers putty or wet chewing gum (can be wetted with clean water if preferred) in the socket with the nut keeps the nut from falling out. Hoping this will save lots of trouble, especially for those times when there is no room to stick a finger down with the end of the socket to hold the nut in .
+Robert Evans Thank you Robert, I hope so too. I'd like to stretch a few more miles out of it. I always joked I was going to get half a million. Regards, Bob
On a Ford, if you get EGR codes, replace the Charcoal canister purge valve. If you get codes about oxygen sensor running rich and lean, replace the MAP sensor. If you're getting vacuum to the EGR at idle, replace the purge valve if it has one. If the engine idles smoother with the vacuum hose removed, it's something upstream from the EGR valve. If you apply vacuum to the EGR with a Mityvac at idle, the engine should run rough. If it doesn't, the passage under the EGR could be clogged. Short trip driving can cause it.
WhatchaDoinBob My Snap-on scanner has a Troubleshooting menu and THAT'S how I fixed my car! Otherwise I would've replaced parts and not fix it. Snap-on scanners are useful on OBDI and some OBD II. E-Bay has them.
You know what I've found to work on heavy carbon or grease removal. OVEN CLEANER. And let it soak for maybe 10 - 15 minutes. You'll be surprised how clean and easy it makes the job.
A little MMO or WD40 to liquify the carbon first helps the oven cleaner do it’s job faster. You’ll also use less of the oven cleaner (lye), which can be hard on aluminum- lots of water to flush all the crud & chemical out.
The intake manifold in my car is a pain to replace. I think I've got carbon buildup in my ports, which is very common for a Honda. I'm just doing everything I can to clean the ports without taking them apart right now. The EGR valve is in a tight spot with my car. I was able to get to the bolts with a regular extension the first time, but this is the only time I ever used my wobble extensions on subsequent cleanings. It makes the job much easier because they can offer that slight bend. The EGR valve is so simple to get off now. I can take it off in probably 2-3 minutes. The magnetic pickup tool has been really useful with this as well.
Use CRC GDI intake cleaner, after it heat soaks it will run great as long as you dont have a vacuum leak at the intake manifold. A vacuum leak will just spray it out at any vacuum leak not doing a proper cleaning. It cost $13 a can, but worth every penny. Also Chevron Techron super concentrate fuel additive works realy well cleaning carbon deposits, even on your intake valves. It's the only fuel additive that ford motor company recemends for its GDI engines. Both these cleaners will give your car new life and much more engine performance. I was surprised by these two cleaners, i could feel the power in my veins after going for a test ride!
There is something that can be used to break up that carbon build up thus making your honda run hella better bro. You can also use mystry oil auto zone advance wal mart dollar general napa sell it. Comes in red bottle it can be used in two applications on vehicle. One use is in the fuel an other is pour it in oil an it cleans n keeps all the parts in great condition from use as treatment with oil an fuel. I use it in my Zx7r 750 as well my Saab and i now use it in my BMW X5 SAV truck.
carbon build up is exceptionally common for any vehicle with an egr valve, due to it breathing its own soot, imagine if they stuck a pipe from your nose to your backside.... best thing for an egr is a blanking plate. (if legal in your area)
A leaking intake manifold gasket will likely allow coolant to leak into the engine oil. Most times, you will not notice this until one of two things take place....1) your engine light come on. or 2) you routinely check your fluids as I do and you find abnormal conditions taking place that require further inspection. I was fortunate to have caught a leaking intake manifold early. I can tell you that replacing intake manifold gaskets on a van is the most painful exercise you can go through! Any DIY can do it, just don't begin to think its a one day job only! I have no trust in garages and dealerships doing what is necessary for long term performance. I did my own at my pace and very thorough!!!! Eight years later, I still have an excellent performing engine passing all government emissions testing and still going strong on the road.
Only SOME vehicles have intake manifolds that also have coolant channels. The 4.3 liter is one of them. Did it on my Astro van. MAJOR effort and learning curve. Took days but I also upgraded injectors and other stuff. Saved some big $$.
Great video - Just a helpful hint, Instead of dropping those bolts, try put a magnet on your socket shaft. Solution = stop dropping bolts. You might also consider wire-wheeling the threads on those bolts then using a little anti-seize on the threads. It'll make a world of difference next time you need to remove it.
@@haleiwahi27 on the socket in order not to loose bolts and nuts when disassembling and reassembling just a small drop i allso used to tape the extensions and socket its up to you if u like fishing and have plenty time
I can tell by the sound your ratchet is American made Last of the true Sear Craftsman Tools. I'm willing to bet you have a Sears Red Roll Around Craftman tool chest. 'There Was More For Your Life At Sears" Sears I miss you.
Good idea cleaning the EGR valve. A lot of people are not aware of that. But, when you clean it, next time, as a suggestion use Q -tips to clean not only the valve but the housing as well. You shouldn't use metal to clean it. The throttle cleaner is great. You should give it a few hours to sit. Allow the solution to settle. To better clean out the carbon
Make sure to use a good sealant on the new egr gasket, old permatex part 2B is good enough. Take a little trip to Home Depot or Lowe's, get a magnet washer from their screws/nuts/bolts isle, that way I don't have to hold a nut where my fingers won't fit!
Lol but the repair shops are so so busy, people love to spend their money to not have to think about it. This man has discovered what every home mechanic knows, its an interesting time in any home mechanics life, reality is fun. Now auto repair places provide a valuable service but we can save so much money by doing it ourselves.
Now I know why I quite rebuilding engines many years ago. Messy work.......! On those places where you can't get your fingers in to hold the nut in the socket, you can put a small dab of heavy grease around the nut, then put the nut in the socket and the grease will hold the nut 'till you get it on the stud.
Two summers ago my pick up would barely run . The guy at the garage check it and told me the knock sensor was bad . And it was under the intake manifold . I told him to change it . The next day he called and told me it didn't fix the problem . He said they check it again and it was the distributor. Long story short I got a bill for 1480. bucks . I wish I have changed it myself .
yes sir, there are places that ppl can get their EGR cleaning service done that cost more to clean it. Back then its $299 to clean egr valve. But i remember i replace mine on my ford explorer and the valve itself was only less then $30. Anything a shop service is over price cause they in business to generate profit.
Let's not call that a profit but a livelihood. Means the same, but sounds a lot better. Holland (The Netherlands?, uhmm Amsterdam?) has been DIY country for decades. You have to become a jack of all trades to get by. In a way that is a bit cheap. Okay, thrifty. Frugal? That is because of labour price per hour. I meet a lot of Indians and they just know someone who can do it for them. In and around the house. That is because there are lots of people waiting in line just to make a few pennies.
Watching you cleaning the EGR.VALVE with a tooth brush.reminds me of my sister..when she was using my tooth brush to clean the inside of a toilet.with out having an idea it was my own tooth brush....she caught me sucking up.my tooth brush after I had just happilly. Had brush my. Teeth...she went crazy...i just said ..so.....why .you used it. And not asking who it belonged to....1984. Memories southern California .L.A....NOV.2020
whenever you are taking off these hard to get screws/ nuts, you could easily get to'em by putting a single or double piece of a small paper inside the socket and then put in your hardware there - just push it 👌 also, whenever you are servicing an egr valve that you need to remove, replace the base gasket with a new one bc it may leak out - if it is for testing, civer it with indian head shellack, if not available use silicon or grease at least atst, when cleaning with any chemicals/ aerosols the orifices of the egr valve, use penetrating oil to make the pintle traveling experience a hit 🤗 that is the way its performed at a repair facility 👍
It's the unburnt fuel that gets forced by the piston rings and into the crank case. It's then recirculated through that system and returned into the combustion chamber.
When you are removing mechanical or electronic parts with multiple screws or bolts to break loose; break loose the first just enough to loosen and then each other one the same; then, finish taking all the bolts loose. When you leave one bolt tight you are risking bending or cracking a part.
Just a word about getting the nuts off and on , in a in tight places, use heavy greese to hold it into place, install in socket push nut or bolt in to socket will stay put intell removed or installed, clean off greese in tell next time, Auto
You might need to check your throttle body also spray some of that B12 spray to clean your throttle body and kind of give it some gas while you spraying it in there and that'll make it run a whole lot smoother also
Normally it is easy to just clean the Mass Airflow Sensor. That normally fixes that problem. Cleaning the EGR Valve is the thing to do. To take it off, spray it down with Carb Cleaner helps. But it is best to let it soak and then scrub it with an old toothbrush. Then spray it out with Carb Cleaner, let it dry and reinstall using a NEW Gasket.
90% of all egr valves and pcv valves just need cleaning and they can serve forever . Just soak it overnight with good carburetor cleaner .do not soak electronic part of egr though :) as far as gasket goes there good products to try like ATP 205 seal or flex seal You could get it fixed for less than $10 total :)
My take on your trouble is that all your problems originated from the intake manifold air leak, that will allow unmetered (and unfiltered) air into the cylinders and causes conflicts in the MAF and MAF sensor feedback, this will result in the ECU not knowing how to react properly with regards to fuel trim. (causing poor gas mileage) and setting the MIL to come on. Always resolve air or vacuum leaks first then reset the ECU.
Rebecca, For that price he's replacing the valve. I don't like when people just assume that every auto tech is trying to rape your wallet. You don't supply enough information for anyone to determine whether or not that is a valid price. Listening to any one of the people who have said that that is a steep price would be foolish. Those people are pulling answers out of their B-holes. If you supply the year make and model and 8th letter of your VIN code, then and only then can a person provide you with better answers. Depending on where you're EGR is located the industry standard labor guide is going to determine how much time the technician will be paid to do your job. The only people who understand how automotive technicians get paid, unfortunately, are us automotive technicians! When I clock in at work I am not getting paid! If you come to my shop and flag me down and asked me to put air in your tire... And subsequently begin asking me a bunch of questions about your car, I am essentially standing there earning $0 per hour while you waste my time. Flat rate technicians only earn money when they perform a labor operation on your car. With the appropriate information on your make and model, a technician will go into a resource such as AllData where it will show "EGR Valve R&R = 1.5hours." It will often also say "labor time is for Remove & Replace only. For cleaning add 0.2hours (12minutes)." Not all EGR valves are on top and easy to access as this guy's video shows. Regardless if your tech sold you a new part or cleaned the old one, you still must pay him for the R&R labor. Generally if the part is very difficult to get access to and the labor is high because of this, the tech will wisely opt to sell you a brand new part. Cleaning an EGR Pintle is something that One can try, but the Stepper Motor could be malfunctioning. Cleaning the EGR is like guess-work..... Maybe it fixes it, maybe it doesn't. For this reason, Technicians usually DON'T clean them. You see there is one thing we Professional Mechanics fear most..... Comebacks! If your tech tried to clean your EGR and told you he installed a new one, not only is that theft but he is risking having the job Comeback. Just so you know Shops do not compensate technicians for working on Comebacks. Most often when you had a repair done and then you bring it back because you think something isn't right or the problem happened again..... That same technician is pulled away from jobs that are paying him so that he can work on your car earning no paycheck. This Flat-Rate pay system encourages techs to do the best work possible the first time. Most Professional Mechanics care about Your car and they are genuinely trying to give you good results. We aren't out to screw people because this our livelihood and peoples Idiot opinions combined with internet Yelp reviews done by people who get butthurt when they paid for One problem to be diagnosed and fixed but then the car still has unrelated problems which the shop says they must charge more to repair. These things negatively affect our business and income. For example: customer states car Cranks but does not Start. Technician gets 1hour of Diag time. That's one hour of pay regardless if the problem takes 4 hours to find! Tech runs tests on fuel system=ok. Tech tests Ignition system (is there spark)=no. Tech finds that there IS spark coming from ignition Coil but not making it through the spark plugs. Tech notes: This vehicle has a distributor cap and high tension wires and they all appear to have age. Tech inspects distributor rotor and finds the electrodes to be all eroded away simply from age. Tech also notes the valve cover is leaking oil into the spark plug wells and oil is depositing there. Tech suggests Replace Distributor Cap/Rotor/Wires/Plugs to fix the no start, recommends replace valve cover gaskets to prevent future misfire problems, and recommends replace fuel filter as preventative maintenance. Customer says "I can't afford all that. Do the Cap and Rotor, no plugs no wires, and do the valve cover gaskets." Tech performs work and engine starts right up! Tech test drives and Vehicle performs well. One week later customer brings car back and says "my car sometimes dies when on a hill and you just fixed it!" Car is given back to Tech to inspect without pay, tech checks for OBD troubles codes finds none and takes car for test drive and no problems occur. Tech advises service writer "no problems with our previous repair are found and remember we were fixing Crank But No Start. This vehicle cranks and starts every single time. If the vehicle is dying on a hill, this is a separate problem for which i need to be paid another 1hour of Diag time." Customer becomes Irate. This situation was because the customer felt they spent a lot of money, but also wanted to pick and choose which of the tech's recommendations to follow. The customer doesn't understand that they are asking the tech to fix a secondary unrelated problem while he makes no paycheck. The customer would be happy to see the tech spend all day on their problem but the tech's time is his rent payment! A tech is only going to fix the problems the customer agreed to pay for and in this case that was the NO Start. Why do I get paid 34.50 per labor hour? Because I spent 20k on technician trade school. Because the shops who hire me do not supply tools and on average a tech will spend 50 to 75,000 dollars on the tools of his trade. Because these tool bills don't get paid by doing favors. Because Car manufacturers continue to make new designs which require more education and more special tools. Because of comeback situations, it is not always possible to book 10 hours in a day, some days im there 11hours but book 5.
Lots of times the EGR will cause additional codes. It is part of how the engine "breathes", so if it can't exhale, (exhaust,) then you can get some back pressure and cause other codes. Also, never, never, try to reuse a gasket. It is a false economy. The gasket on the EGR is exposed to exhaust, at temperature, and in the video you clearly see the word "FUEL" on a sticker. At the very least, you could heat the fuel and it becomes a gas instead of a liquid, and you vapor lock. at the worst, the car could burn up. Gaskets are cheap, relatively, compared to a car. Cleaning the EGR is possible and could save you a ton. Also another thing, sometimes the after market sensors don't play well with the engine management systems. Don't know why, went through 2 MAF sensors and finally bought the OEM and problem went away. Go figure.
EGR woes can definitely cause a rough engine - especially near idle. Vacuum leaks? Not really - fuel trim [long term] will go positive to compensate, and engine still runs smooth.
i don't fuck with dealers so maybe you're right about that but it's not 1/4 Autozone or O'Reily's. I have Amazon prime so if you figure RockAuto's shipping charges it's pretty much the same price and I get it in 1-2 days instead of 3-5
where's part 2 Bob??? did you get to the parts store and back? Was she running rough? I would have put just a little squirt of blaster in that EGR just for good measure.
You didn't clean the EGR ports on the engine, does should be sprayed and gunk removed too. I didn't see you replace the EGR valve gasket . Otherwise every informative video, thanks
If manifold gasket leaks, could it be the torqued bolts working loose; retorque OR apply gasket maker to suspect leak area/s and torque tight.? Maybe ?
It also depends where the EGR (German AGR: Abgas Rückführung) is mounted on the engine. With my Golf 7 TDI it is definetely not as accessible as is shown in this video. It is somewhere below the turbo which is close to the firewall, so in my case it is snugly fitted at the back of the engine. I saw an example of an Audi where it is nicely on top of the engine. So, 'it depends'.
I liked your videos. Please i need your help. What could cause rpm to go high on park and neutral? what could cause fuel rail pressure sensor in high rage? Could leak exhaust manifold causes it, cause have changed the oxygen sensors, throttle body sensor. please, help me out. My car is Kia carnival 2005 2.5L petrol engine automatic. obd codes are p1169, p0056, p0156, p0030. Thank you for your help.
Your poor fuel economy is probably because when the MIL (Malfunction Indicator Lamp) is illuminated something may be preventing the system from entering Closed-Loop status. During coldt startup, the ECM is using readings from the MAF or MAP or both to compare to preprogrammed data tables to determine how much fuel to give the engine. Once the Engine Coolant Temp sensor tells the ECM that the engine has reached operating temperature, the ECM will enter Closed-Loop mode. Now the ECM is using feedback from the upstream O2 sensors to determine the Actual engine fuel needs and this method is much more accurate at achieving as close to stoichiometric Air/Fuel mixture as possible. Stoichiometric provides the best efficiency. there are several things that can prevent your ECM from entering closed loop no, something as simple as a bad/inaccurate ECT sensor or a stuck open thermostat. Either one of those may not turn on the engine light. You said they told you it has a MAP fault code. This does not actualy say its a bad sensor or if the sensor is detecting strange readings, so more info is needed. The intake leak they told you about, if large enough, may actually be allowing a vacuum leak does unmetered air is entering the manifold. This causes a lean condition and likely can be seen with a scan tool in your LTFT (long term fuel trim) as the ECM is trying to compensate by dumping in additional fuel. It looked like you have a 3.8L. and I'm not sure if you mentioned the engine size and year or if I missed it. Up to a certain year those engines commonly had intake leak problems, supposedly they corrected this in the manufacturing process but that doesn't mean it can't happen any more. When they said you have an intake leak, most likely they are not talking about the plastic intake manifold on top. If you try to do this job yourself and you change the upper intake plenum gasket, you're going to still have the problem. The intake leak affecting those 3.X litre engines is generally the lower intake manifold. There are two portions to the intake upper and lower. Changing the lower intake gasket is a rather involved job. That's not saying you can't do it, but if done incorrectly, thats a lot of time wasted and those gaskets aren't reusable. When the lower intake manifold leaks you will see coolant leaking. Sometimes you'll see it towards the front of the engine near the serpentine belt area, and sometimes you'll see it collecting on top of your transaxle. Sometimes if it's really bad you'll see both. There is a very simple test you can do to see how bad this leak is. If you have a small handheld propane torch, turn on the gas and do not ignite it. Run your engine at idle and trace the areas of the lower intake manifold with the gas nozzle. The idea here is that if there is an intake manifold leak, engine vacuum is going to suck in combustible gas and the engine RPMs will change suddenly. 😁
You do realize you dont actually have to take the small plate off just take off the part and spray it inside the hole of valve tell it smoothly easy move in and out,then let it dry about 1 or 2
I guess Im asking the wrong place but does anybody know of a tool to log back into an instagram account? I somehow forgot the password. I appreciate any help you can give me
@Julio Justice i really appreciate your reply. I got to the site through google and im in the hacking process atm. Looks like it's gonna take a while so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
Hi . My engine light is still on after i changed the EGR valve . Do i have to take the car to a service for updating the system so maybe than the engine light will go off?
The best place to find auto parts is on line, Ebay moters, good stuff, If you do side to go auto parts place, dont call just one, three would be the OK. Make a choice then, Intell next time, Auto
I wish somebody would help me I still can't find out where the crankshaft positioning sensor is on a 2000 Oldsmobile Alero V6 engine and it's driving me nuts I thought it would be must be behind the starter but it's not visual I'm going to have to call the dealer tomorrow I guess
Honey bear check online for the position, if you do any repairs on your vehicles I highly recommend getting a Haynes Manual for your car, it tells you all the techniques, pieces and locations for a full take down of your entire car. I got a like new Haynes manual for my car and my jeep for $10 or less. Autozone they're 25 new. I don't worry about new because I get oil and grease on the books when I'm working. These are definitely life saver books, tells you things like what bolts are reversed threaded, what small hidden screw needs to be turned to remove a part. Well worth the 10 bucks. 🐻✊
You kept cleaning the mating surfaces. The only important part is the solenoid inside. Your valve was leaking obviously through the gasket even as it should not be so dirty at mating surfaces.
I cleared the code and it stayed off. I still ended up replacing the Intake Manifold gasket as is war sucking air and that leaned out the idle and improved the mileage. Regards, Bob
Just wanted to let you know, I did check the intake for leaks but there is no leaks. Do you think that this is the cause; www.ebay.com/itm/Toyota-Lexus-Purge-Vacuum-Control-Solenoid-Valve-Unit-P-90910-12174-OEM/282821655544?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908105057%26meid%3Df50ef585a0dc463494882753d2c5b2d5%26pid%3D100675%26rk%3D5%26rkt%3D15%26sd%3D263876997990%26itm%3D282821655544&_trksid=p2481888.c100675.m4236&_trkparms=pageci%3Ab3632836-a4f6-11e8-9968-74dbd18071fc%7Cparentrq%3A5aa3d6031650a99bea72de7bffff8fb5%7Ciid%3A1
