This was a really really well done video, on all levels. Thanks so much for the step-by-step walk through. Question: Do you store your electric chainsaw (I happen to have the same Remington one plus a Greenworks 14 inch also) with the oil in the reservoir? You have some very good videos- definitely subbed!
Thanks Chris, I really appreciate that. Yes, I leave the oil in it. I hang mine from the handle with the blade down vertically. The oil does slowly run down the bar and drip out, but I have a small plastic cup hanging from the end of the bar which catches it. I just pour it back in when I use the saw next.
Great job. I have that very same model saw. Got it for free need to get it cleaned and the chain sharpened. Find a bar cover too. Love electric chain saws. Thanks
I'm so impressed! Excellent video. He knows what he's doing, knows how to lead you into thinking and give you the solution... very engaging. The camera work was outstanding, no stone unturned. Subscribing!!!
Watched this video last night. Took apart and cleaned my little Remington electric detachable pole saw. The oiler would no longer work. I am not the handiest. Cleaned it based on your video and could not have done it otherwise. Filthy and full of crap inside. I have not used the saw yet, but there's no doubt that the oil bulb will push oil through with no problem. Don't understand why so relatively few views. One of the best "how to" videos on RU-vid. Thank you, thank you, thank you.
thanks, great steps to follow for a clean. since i had no success in buying/ finding a cap for oil res, a aluminium soda cap for now. instructions and visual + clean work space got you 10 stars by me. safety glasses first tho.. hehehe. ☮☮❤❤
I'm curious why you didn't pull off the drive sprocket (white circle thing)and clean all the gunk and built up nastiness that ends up behind that thing(the white circle thing). It pulls off relatively easy. Well you do have a slightly different saw but I am just trying to figure out how to properly lubricate the saw before I go to slap it back together, Parts wise it's almost exactly identical. yours has more horsepower the one I am working on is 1.5 HP.
I don't recall that there was evidence of debris behind that disc, it moved freely. On assembly, there really isn't anything in there needing pre-lubrication. The chain and bar are the important things to oil and that oil will get spun onto everything else as necessary.
@@ItsFixable there were a few things behind that disk that needed to be cleaned and attended to. There was quite a bit of fine sawdust that was basically filling up the teeth on the drive sprocket. And then the thing the drive sprocket sits on has two bearings that are these like little sleeve bearings I don't know what to call them I've never seen them before in my life until just yesterday but after further research I discovered that they do it would need just a tiny little bit of Grease just to keep them all going good and whatnot. I read regarding gas-powered chainsaw specifically that those little bearings on that driver sprocket need to kept clean and maintenance. when the saw is not cutting and it's just running and idling it will start making what sounds like a cowbell knocking, when those get worn down. I understand it's slightly different with a electric saw those bearings are still there. I tried the saw today after cleaning it all up, and it's never worked better. When it came to the chain I took the chain off and I put it in a glass container with a rust stain remover from the brand winks, with a little bit of some foaming bathroom cleaner spray with bleach in it. Added some water to covered the chain and swirled it with a screw driver. The dumped it out and washed throughly. Then slightly heated it dry with a propane touch. Not getin it too hot by any means. Then put it back into the glass container that I had( which was technically old candle originally) and filled up to the container until the chain was fully submerged in boiled linseed oil. And then I took some plastic Saran Wrap and put it over the container and pushed down the center of it so that it was making contact with the linseed oil and then rubber banded it shut. Let sit for 12+hrs and the chain looks better then ever. Also when I removed it from the oil I patted it dry with a paper towel not completely dry though. All in all it came out great. But honestly everywhere I looked I never found one video or anything that specifically explained that drive sprocket area of an electric chainsaw. I don't know if there's a specific reason for that but I know for a fact my needed it cleaned up and attended too. Great video by the way
@@metal422lifeSounds like you did a very thorough job. Yes, it's important to keep the drive teeth clean. A gas powered chainsaw has a centrifugal clutch that need to remain clean in order for the saw to idle properly. An electric chainsaw doesn't. Sleeve bearings are low maintenance bearing and are very common in small motors and appliances. If I'm not mistaken, boiled linseed oil will oxidize and harden, or rubberise. In the paint industry it is used as a primary ingredient in many varnishes and lacquers. Therefore I don't think it is an appropriate lubricant. Bar and chain oil is engineered to provide the proper lubrication and heat dissipation to insure the longest life for your chain. In some jurisdictions, biodegradable bar oil is mandated to be used because running a chainsaw sprays oil into the environment. I'm pleased you found my video useful, thanks!
@@ItsFixable I understand it's not a great lubricant but it does rehydrate slightly mainly it's a rust preventative. That's also why I made sure that there was basically no error in contact with that boiled linseed oil because I know that it oxidizes and it basically leaves hard hard rubbery film. But the chain needed some love because it never seen maintenance for years until I got it. Got some good chain oil in there after I tested the saw out briefly, mostly to clean out the rest of that linseed oil the paper towel didnt get. I personally like to use boiled linseed oil on my polished axe head. Anytime I use that axe I rub a little linseed oil on it and it prevents it from rusting. Oh yeah an the bearings where dirty and dry on mine. Not now though. Their happy.
Those e-clips can indeed be stubborn. Use a flat screwdriver that is narrow enough to fit into the space on one side of the inner back of the ring. Keep the tip firmly against the metal plate and try pulling it toward you instead of levering it away. Be sure to have your other hand or a rag positioned to catch the thing if it shoots out. You don't want to go crawling around on the floor to find it! An e-ring tool like this certainly makes removal and installation easier. smile.amazon.com/Neiko-01970A-Clip-Remover-Installer/dp/B000W94UEQ/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=e+clip+tool&qid=1633961808&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzUVk0OEE2RU4wSUJMJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMjM1NDc0QVhVNExET0NaUDhNJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA2NTA2OTAyWEhVQ0pCUkNXTkYzJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ== ,but I don't have one.
@@ItsFixable I tried box cutter before reading this. Get under alright, then goodbye box cutter. My Remington is a 14 in Limb & Trim. Almost identical, if not.
