Thank you, that was a huge help today. We referred to it several times. Major problem we had was with the feet due to my ceiling being the minimum height.
I purchased this ladder for my garage two days ago. AA2210 at Lowes. I get it home and right out of the box I saw that the door is particle board and not plywood as shown in this video. Ill learn to live with it once I get it painted. The particle board started to flex at the corners and separated away from the insulation since it is glued down. I installed a some extra 1/4-20 bolts with some washers to keep the door, insulating foam and back part of the door held together. While the cost was minimal I feel I shouldn't have had to do that. Install wasn't too hard. Just make sure your support boards are correctly in place.
Replace the particle board with strong ¾" Plywood! Also make sure you use AMERICAN made bolts and nuts. the crap Louisville sends along shreds and you don't want to be alone in the house on those stairs when that happens.
Feet were a problem on my install. Ceiling is 10ft and nearly maxed out the feet adjustment-no gaps and feet firmly on the floor. This also caused the feet to catch on the foot end of the frame when attempting to close. Resolved this issue by notching out a quarter of the non-screwed side of frame allowing the feet to pass and close properly.
Nice instructions but the book says use 3/16 drill bit whereas the video says use 1/8" drill bit. The videos Table 3 Chart of cuts to be made per how tall your ceiling is - also a bit different but basically same info. We used the 3/16 because the lag screws are pretty good size. Also, put your header lag screws in first don't be dumb like me and do the sides first and end up with a bowed hinge. (the other end square as can be LOL) It opens and closes just fine but wondering if will wear out sooner or break due to not enough support since not tight to corners? Emailed Louisville so we'll see. Good luck to everyone, seems like a great ladder.
is there a difference in the angle of your different stair models. my son installed this Elite series and it has a much steeper angle than the wooden stairs he took down. i find getting off and on your Elite model difficult .
I am beyond furious because I have a 12' Louisville ladder and I cannot retract it up into the attic without 2 people and 2 ladders to get it up. Louisville is, of course, oblivious to the problem, as they were when the upper wood cross piece of the frame the whole ladder was suspended from cracked when I was investigating why the ladder would not close correctly and it almost fell when I was on it. Thank goodness I was fleet of foot and was able to yell until someone brought me the 8' step ladder. so I could get down. Who designs a 12' aluminum ladder and does not understand that it needs to function without any additional ladders? Any suggestions? I am toying with the idea of mounting a pulley inside at the top step, running a strong twine down along the wood door behind it, attached to an eye bolt at the outside bottom of the next lowest, where the knee bend is, and pulling on that to retract the steps when down. It is very inelegant and offensive to the purist in me who believes in form and function being their own beauty, but tripping over a piece of twine while climbing up a 12' height on a ladder is not ideal. I appeal the the engineers out there, degreed or just the self educated, common sense ones. Please solve this problem that all the geniuses at Louisville ladder cannot!
