I leave here my tips for nylon printing on creality 3 s1 pro. I got successfully printed pa-6 with bellow parameters: hb temp: 85’C. Nozzle temp 260’C. Cura settings: 0,4mm nozzle, 1-st layer hight 0,3mm, regular layer hight 0,4mm, layer width 0,5 mm. First layer flow 140%, first layer width 150% and it sticks to standard pei with no fancy tricks
I got that printer yesterday (very first 3D printer) and I only have PETG filament (actually read it was fairly easy to print and a bit more durable than the PLA) . The models came off without any force at all. One literally fell off when turning the bed to the side, no material left sticking. I didn't put anything on the surface. So you may use PETG on the original bed without problem.
Awesome & valuable review. The Ender 3S1 seems to be a great deal for commercial grade type products for functional applications. I have been looking for an robust printer for exotic materials & this seems to be the best value to fit the bill. Thanks!
Came upon your channel while researching this particular printer and I have to say I absolutely love you. You remind me of the guys I used to watch on tv as a kid
youtube has been wonky for a while now, they auto delete a lot of ppls comments that arent even bad stuff, it happens to me too and i see other people saying the same thing, its unfortunate
Love the video, I bought the Ender 3 S1 and just ordered an all metal hot end and nozzle upgrade for $26 USD or $42 CAD still a great deal. I can handle the firmware upgrade myself. If I’ve been able to order the pro though I would’ve ordered the pro instead
Two things: Could you share a link for the three wrenches you mentioned (torque wrench for the Ruby nozzle, the metal heating element wrench, and the robo grip from Rigid ). Also, would you do a video about bed leveling on the Ender 3 S1 Pro? I have seen your other videos on leveling, but it seems that it is a bit different on the Pro. Thanks.
Nice video, thanks for sharing! Something that has worked well for me on nylonX bed adhesion is aquanet hairspray on glass. Has been my go-to for many years.
Excellent RU-vid video! I purchased the Ender 3 S 1 pro about a month ago and I am loving it! I have not tried printing with any other filament other than PLA but I am looking forward to trying them !
I’m using the sprite pro kit on my e3v2, 422 board, Jyers modified to give a 60 second 9 position BL touch probing ( CR touch on another printer) and 230x230 Ned area, 300c hotend. I’m loving how well it’s printing! But you brought up an interesting point about replacement nozzles. How does one verify the new nozzle is flush tight against the all metal tube when replacing a nozzle? I’m assuming if the nozzle barrel length is identical to the original it’s ok once tightened? Or are there a few extra threads on the nozzle length to snug it up? So far I’ve only printed pla and Petg for a short time so I haven’t explored changing or substituting a new type nozzle. Maybe a follow up video on sprite pro nozzle changing? Thanks.
@@MakeWithTech Does this new printer use a new kind of nozzle, or does it use the standard Mark 8 nozzle a standard Ender 3 uses? The nose looks different.
Very bold words to put it on a class the same as the prusa you’ve said yourself that when you just want a print to work you build it on your prusa we will see if you actually stick to the ender the prusa is often Imitated never duplicated there is a reason they are 5 weeks out on shipping I hope you’re right and this thing holds up time will tell great work as always!!
Thanks! I am looking a investing in an S1 pro currently, it will be my first printer, I am a total newbie. Everything made sense, and was very helpful. Did you have your s1 in any type of enclosure for the Nylon or Nylon-X? Wondering how much value is added with a soft enclosure, seems like a filament dryer is more important, though I am in Denver, so may not be an issue here. Thanks again!
Blue painters tape just rocks and is an excellent weapon in any toolbox. I seriously recommend folks have this on hand.. It works great on the bed for materials your having difficulty with and it works great in post processing to mask parts while painting. It's also much stronger than regular masking tape. But the best feature is that while it sticks really good, it can be removed really easily. Always keep some at hand.. Personally I find product such as gluestick, while does (maybe) give a little adhesion, in reality what they are good for is as a release agent - ie. It forms a barrier between the print and the bed, so when the print bed cools for the most part the print comes right off without ripping chunks from the bed (especially glass). I feel that products on bed should be viewed more as a release than a glue.. It would have been nice to see the crystals being printed, but I guess I'll have to check out the file.. The vacuum bags are great though the valve does eventually fail on you, but that's no problem as the bags are not ultra expensive. I do find though that the spool gets bent out of shape though being compressed by the bag - I'm thinking about printing some kind of support for the spool - I don't know if it will help. I also have issues with the dry box spindles not allowing smoth movement of the spool. Maybe I'll look into just why this is happening and if there is a fix. It may even be the tired spools themselves. Anyway good video and thank you Dr vax.. 😊
It is interesting to find someone using it in 2022 - it's a real throwback to the days when everyone was experimenting. Check out RU-vid videos from 2010-2017. Painter's tape. ABS juice. Mirrors from IKEA. (Which, incidentally, is what I use on my X2 - just clip one to the bed, use glue stick, works for most things.) The mirror sheets would actually make a good substrate should I choose to try those PEI film stickers - no need to apply it to the built-in bed, apply it to a mirror instead, and it's instantly removable. I suppose I could put blue tape (or plastic tape, if I wanted to print polypropylene) on one if I needed to also. And you get a pack of four for six bucks.
@@iskandartaib I swear by blur tape for some jobs.. for instance, I seem to get a lot of trouble with asa - blue tape to the rescue.. And when painting, rather than mark the piece with tape, the blue stuff comes right off. Sometimes the old ways are the best ways
I stopped the video when you said cura. I also have 2 enders and i'm completely aware and i know why it's bad. For most users the preassembled prusa makes absolutely more sense.
I'm sure this has been tried, but I'd put some desiccant bags in the printer dryer (in each of the corners --drilling out a good sized hole in each). And when not in use, I'd try to find a way to seal it up (a gasket all around and some tape over the filament hole) and attach a vacuum pump up to it. If you had a pressure sensor inside the dryer (connected to an Arduino or Raspberry), you could keep turn on the pump when the vacuum started to drop.
Thank you for all the great videos! As someone that's recently reviewed both the Ender 3 S1 Pro and the Super Racer, which would you suggest for someone who wants to use mostly PETG, doesn't care about speed and primarily wants quality and ease of use? (I wish both had larger print areas, but I'll just have to get over that.). By ease of use, I'm referring to the tuning and other efforts to get the best results (for instance the SR appears to have a very easy E-Step calibration routine). ...Maybe a head-to-head comparison video would be popular? :) Thanks again.
If you're printing MAINLY PETG and not interested in nylons or PC, want something bigger, and am not concerned about speed, I'd consider the Artillery Sidewinder X2. There are similar printers from other manufacturers as well - Two Trees makes the Bluer Plus, Creality makes several versions of the CR-10. Most of these use Bowden tubes, however, the X2 is direct drive. And rather than the Ender 3 S1 Pro I'd consider the regular Ender 3 S1, if you want to go that route.
@@iskandartaib hmm. I started with a Anycubic too. But if someone ask me what printer he should buy these 2 would be my suggestion. The Prusa will print without the need of tuning or modding it and the Voron is a mod and tuning monster. There is a new printer coming soon but still on kickstarter for now.
I am finally decided to replace my 3D printer and I am purchasing Creality Ender 3 S1 Pro so my question is, can I use my software from Prusa that I’ve been working with all these years? If your answer is yes, I cannot see the printer on their list of printers, so which printer should I choose? That makes the slicer work thank you very much Eli
Спасибо за интересный рассказ Друг мой! Вчера купил S1 pro и жду когда его доставят. Спасибо что подтвердил мое понимание в отношении использования инженерных материалов на этом принтере! Удачи!!!
Great video as usual. After starting out using painters tape, I'd rather not go back unless I have to. I print on a PRUSA at work and have printed some Taulman bridge with limited success. I now have a garalite clad spring steel bed for my next attempt but l might give the painters tape another try if it does not work.
Um...your math is a little off $379 to $499 is $120 difference; not $80. Even with your on-screen correction for the S1 @ $399; that's still $100 difference, not $80.
Gave your video a share on my Facebook page for a shoutout hope it gets you some fallows and interest into learning with desktop technologies 😍😎 😁 🤩 I really Injoy your videos .... 💗🇨🇦 Cheers 😊
Sr im from Mexico and i was looking for some test on the carbon fiber reinforced filament, thank god i found you jajaja such a nice information, thank you sr, subscribed inmediately
Irv Which Printer would you suggest for a Person who has been 2D Printing for about 2-3 months and wants a Printer that Prints and doesn't need all the work to keep the printer printing. I have an Anycubic Vyper and i'm having a lot of problems with.
I have the same printer, the only difference is I haven't been able to print with it. not sure if I am doing something wrong or what. I have tried to get help from creality but no help from them. could you do a video of how to set the temperature choosing your print and then how to start the print, so I have some way of telling if something is wrong with my printer or if it's just me? Thanks
Were you ever able to make the video looking at the breaking stress for each of the different materials? I would love to see that but I couldn't find it on your channel. Thanks!
I really wanted to buy the "Ender 3 S1 Pro" its on sale for 399.00 on Amazon. BUT , I wasted 1 yr learning to draw solids with Fusion 360 and was transitioning to CAM ( I am a CNC Machinist ) when they pulled the plug. I was really pissed because I was about to purchase a CNC Router for Hobby playing. Now I want a 3d printer and still no CAD that is affordable so its time to give up on those dreams. Since 360 is cloud based, they could determine who was abusing it and cut them off, NOT ME !!!!!!!!
Hello , just started following you , love the videos, having trouble with following your steps for 3 line count to mimic vase mode with line width of 1.2 , no top layers, and 0 infill , with vase mode I get a time of 3 hrs and with your steps I get a time of 13 hrs, not sure what I'm missing
Your great videos really helped me get this hobby going for me. I bought an Ender 3 S1 Pro and loving it. However, i have a question you may be able to answer. My Ender print bed is 220x220mm, but the file i need to print is a tiny bit larger than 220 mm. I tried setting the printer to 235x235 in Cura, but whatever i try, the printer refuses to print larger than 220. I suspect i need to edit some G code to make this possible? Can you point me in the right direction?
@@koosy2987 just make sure when you do that you modify your external infill angles and support angles 45° as well otherwise you may run into support problems and infill problems.. I use simplify 3d for my s1 pro and I had to do that for a recent print
Yep. Sometimes my mouth gets ahead of my head. That said the prices are always changing. Right not the S1 pro is $479 on the Creality site. So it is getting closer.
Excellent video. Thank you. The ONLY PROBLEM IS that you speak to people with easy access to the stuff and stores you mentioned AND NOT to people that have difficulty getting stuff from even AMAZON. Please wake up and realise that America IS NOT THE ONLY COUNTRY IN THE WORLD but IS ONE OF THE FEW STILL STUCK in the imperial system of measuring stuff.
Laughing 😅If you think assembling a prussa takes too long, I made my first one from scratch including my own circuit board design. Disclaimer- I eventually switched to commercial ones when the quality improved. But my one did work! 12 years later, my CR6 Max even used the same microcontroller I used in a smaller pinout. The E3 S1 Pro is great. I've diverged off printing my own designs for a couple of weeks to print some other people's articulated animal designs.
Hi Irv, I had exactly the same problem as you found with EIBOS single roll filament dryer box feeding filament direct into a FLSUN SR. Caused the extruder to skip steps. So I too use the EIBOS to dry filaments and then place them into SUNLU filament dryer box ( which are NOT very good at drying filament ) to feed the filament direct into the printer. The SUNLU roller bearing work much better. Refering to Chess Knight's query re printing PETG, I have had a lot of trouble with my FLSUN SR printing PETG - model letting go of the bed after a couple of layers - tried glass, PEI, Glues. Will go back to the old painter's tape.
Very interesting. I use a printer with direct drive and an E3D all metal hotend with a hardened coated nozzle. I print engineering not decorative parts, so always interested in videos like this. Never tried nylon because of the reported moisture problems which sound like hard work to control, but may do so now. However, have you ever tried polycarbonate with or without carbon fibre as an engineering material? It needs high temp, up to around 300/100C (which my printer will do) but has the reputation of being very strong (similar to nylon, possibly less flexible) but from materials websites should have less of a moisture issue. I have tried Priline PC+CF which is good to print with, but seems to ooze a lot. However it is obviously not pure PC because it prints at around 230 to 240C so it must be a blend - they do not say of what. Would be very interested in a video comparing nylon and polycarbonate.
Thanks for the great review. This was helpful in deciding to purchase the printer. My original Ender 3 is still going strong but with the cost of all the upgrades I want to do to it, it makes more sense to get this instead. Thanks!