I'm fully aware that I am not the only one to report praise for your videos and the detail of your content, but I earnestly appreciate your videos on printers and the depth which you go into to help viewers better understand products and the industry overall. Thank you so much for what you do, friend!
Unless Creality drops the price significantly people are better off buying a P1P. Matching a P1P on performance will require upgrades like linear rails and a raspberry pi or a sonic pad to run Klipper. Each of these will make an Ender cost more than a P1P. Goes to show even the disrupters are being disrupted.
I am very interested in this printer. I am certainly going to buy it the coming months. I plan to use it combined with the Creality Sonic Pad, because that gives me even more control over the print quality (klipper has some advantages over Marlin). I already have the Creality Ender 3 S1 (non-Pro version), and I am happy with that one, but I always had a Ender 5 chugging away in the background. I am going to replace that one with this new Ender 5 S1 (and make someone else happy with my "old" Ender 5), so I have both models. I love that Creality finally has taken the jump to direct drive models for this range. It opens the possibility to print stuff like flexible filament (I already tried on the Ender 3 S1 and it went beautifully).
Thanks for the great video! You talked about it shortly at the end. But what would you say the big difference with the ender 3 s1 pro and this one? Which is your preference and why?
@@KurtVSJ i have issues with e5s1 with leveling. The latest sonic pad firmware seems to fix if.. Take a look at bambu lab p1p.. Id get this one, if i could return 5s1..
Actually quite sad Creality still not know how to do powerloss recovery right, even as Prusa does it the correct way since 2017. The moment AC fails, the PSU still gives power to the printer due to the capicitators inside. Maybe just for a tenth of a second (if both heaters are heating at that moment). The trick prusa uses: The PSU has an optocoupler unit (called "mk3 power panic") inside. The very moment it detects power loss on AC, this is signaled to the board. Marlin imeditly shuts down the heaters, so remaining power from the capacitators last for 2 or even 3 seconds. More than enough time to write the exact(!) actual position information (not only the actual layer like on Crealitys printer) and even move z a centimeter, so the still hot nozzle do not damage the print. I am not sure if the filament is also retracted (surely would be a good idea to avoid potential clogging, as the coldend fan of course also gets off on power loss) as I never experimented a power loss here in Germany in the last decade. This "real power recovery" function of course comes not for free. You can get the needed electronic on AliExpress for about $12 (search for "mk3 power panic"). You have to modify firmware of course, to use as intended. So the power recovery mode Creality uses comes for "free" but with a lot of downsides. As you have seen, you have to turn it off for vase mode. But also it just stores the actual layer, not the exact position, so you see the failiure in the final print, as the printer can not continue at the exact position the power was lost. With the real thing you see barely anything, maybe a little blob if the power loss occured while printing a perimeter. Depending on the region you live, you might simply add the mk3 power panic sensor and modify the firmware. But here in Germany I never had a short power loss in the last decade, so I do not need it (but of course, if you tinker at other electronic projects and do a short, you might loose power for a moment, so not only the region you live but also your other hobbys matter). Still, Power loss recovery only helps for short power loss, because nowerdays most beds release the print if cooling down, so you can not continue print after about 5 to 10 minutes of power loss anyways. Of course, if you use Klipper, you might also need a battery buffer for the Pi (or maybe the SonicPad) and need macros to handle the situation.
Irv, Bambu has passed most of the 3D printing world. I have the X1 Carbon with AMS and the P1P, I donated my 3 Ender 5s and my Ender 5 Plus to my local high school, I am happy with my decision. Creality has simply made new versions of the old printers and not done any real new innovations.
29:42 Spire .(Spyre or s-pie-r). a tall, slender, pointed structure on top of a roof of a building or tower, especially at the summit of church steeples
I have the original Ender 5, and I looked at the Ender 5 S1 and I can't see a lot of benefit to it for the price it is. The price of the Ender 5 S1, even compared to the original Ender 5, is ridiculous. If you need to spend more than the price of the printer on "upgrades" how are they really upgrades? There are better printers for the price point, even several that are Core XY. With regards to enclosure, Even the original Ender 5 could have acrylic sheets to enclose it, but Creality just didn't release it. You just slipped acrylic into the channel, same as you do with the 5 S1 kit. I may be mistaken, but the enclosure kit does not appear to have a lid, and heat rises so most heat will be lost from the top. The speed. Honestly, I could get 150mm/s and acceleration of 1750mm/s out of my stock Ender 5 without any upgrades. The build volume isn't really sufficient to take advantage of the higher acceleration properly. Add Klipper to the original Ender 5 and you do get really quick prints that really make the S1 look like less of an upgrade. I love your videos, and you are one of the few I watch and really take notice of, but I just think there are much better printers around for a similar price than the Ender 5 S1. I wish Creality had made this a true Core XY Printer.
Good video. I have an Ender 5 S1 though I bought it for around half the price, not quite. If I had to buy it at full price though I probably would have bought a K1. I don't think much of the enclosure though as there are gaps everywhere. Also, they changed the design of the bottom extrusion so I had to 3d print a hinge block that would work. The printer itself though is great. Better quality prints and much faster than my older ender 3 pro. I usually print with the layer set at .28 and a speed of 160mm/s and acceleration of 700mm/s. I might play around with speed and acceleration to see if I can get it to go faster, but right now I am satisfied with how fast it prints. I think the flow rate might be a little high at 100% though as the corners of the calibration cube are a bit bumpy. I have never used vase mode and I am not sure I ever will. I can't think of any practical prints that I could use vase mode with. Maybe a small desktop trash can or a pencil holder.
13:20 and again Creality builds a hotend on which the cooling fan is just blowing the hot air against the mount/bracket. This was already a design flaw on the standard Ender 3 hotend (the red one) as there will be a heat build up in the space between the mount/bracket and the fins. The Sprite hotend has the advantage of pushing the air from left to right, parallel to the aluminium beam, which is much more effective.
Brilliant and thorough video. I'm new to 3d printers and looking to purchase one in the next day or so. Been looking at this one and the Kobra 2 pro, but don't know which one is going to be best, will be using it to make diy bits more than anything and would prefer something with really good quality. Which out of the 2 would you recommend, or is there any others that you'd recommend costing around 250
I'm an IT specialist for almost 30 yrs but a newbie in 3D printing. I just bought this printer and the rabbit was my first printing. The first three tries where a total dissappointment. At ~30%, what's left on the bed, started moving with the extruder. I thought it was the printing speed which was set to 100% (the factory default speed). So my third try was at the reduced speed of 80%, which also failed. After reading here and there, i checked my bed leveling. I used a A4 paper to check the distance of the nozzle in the middle of the bed and to my surprise the paper could be freely moved, although i had doubled and tripled check the leveling before each of my other printings. Then i decided to manually change the Z-axis just so the paper barely fits under the nozzle. And the rabbit was printed perfectly at 80% speed, around ~28 minutes, using the filament that came with the printer. BTW, you present your videos very nice, like a school teacher, which i like since my dad was a teacher.
@@Bennett_Lab Sure! I was told about this. However even with that filament it printed perfectly, after a few tries. Possibly with a better filament it would have not failed, but this made me wiser ;)
I've been having issues with leveling for 3 days and ended up removing the sonic pad. About to return it, but will give your settings a try. Ender 3 pro is still throwing great prints down.
How do you think the Ender 7 compares to the Ender 5 S1? I remember Creality was focusing on 250mm speeds on that a printer a while back, same speeds as the this one.
Owner of Ender 7 for a short time, looked promising, but a complete dud as you shall see. Best Creality was Ender3 S1:especially with Sonic Pad, now Ender 5S1 joins it. But, will I buy it, no. Bambu Labs is my next purchase. There is no comparison to these printers compared to the P1P let alone the X1.
can you print around the edges? When I print parts along the left and front sides it won't stick. Printing anything in the center sticks perfectly. I'm having so many problems with this printer, I'm starting to think it sucks.
I have not used a P1P but while great specs seems to be mixed reviews. Hard to say without comparing them side by side. I expect Creality will reduce the price over time.
Yeah - I love to get my hands on that Sonic Pad (although I will use it on my Ender 3 S1 for now, because the Ender 5 S1 is planned later this year). Unfortunately the Creality Sonic Pat is very difficult to obtain in my country at this time. The moment it becomes available it's sold out. I already missed the sale 3 times, because I was too late. I now have to wait until mid February before a new batch will arrive.
Good thought. Here are some interesting settings in the 3d Benchy: Wall Ordering inside_out Printing Temp 220 Print Speed 120 Wall Speed 50 Z Hop Speed 10 Print Acceleration 2000 Travel Acceleration 2000 Print Jerk 10 Retraction Distance 0.8 Retraction Speed: 50 Small Feature Speed: 30
@@MakeWithTech Yes. I don’t think there’s much you can do about it but I thought you should know, the ads are very long, not those short ones you can skip.
Great video. My question is how is the canter leaver bed? Have you had to print different support arms? I seen one RU-vid video where they added new support arms for the 3D printer not the Ender 5 S1 I forget what one it was. Thanks for the insight.
Lets learn something Dr.! Ender 5 hack #28 Use cynder blocks or a nice heavy concrete/rock slab. I Learn this on my 1st ender 5 pro, again thanks for your help on should i buy this, Im sold on it ty again
once they make a bigger build plate like 300 x 300 or 350 x 350 i'll consider getting an ender 5 s1 i mean i could get a OG ender 5 plus with the bigger build plate and do all the upgrades but im in no rush to get a second one until i can allocate some funds for one plus 21:33 I never thought of printing that and now i need one
I've recovered countless prints by measuring the height and manually editing the gcode so have no clue what you mean when you say you cannot recover prints.
Trying to decide between a Flashforge Adventurer 4 and the Ender 5 S1 and was sure that the Adventurer 4 was the winner - was about to buy it. I don't know if it was a mistake, or a blessing that I decided to watch this video, because now I'm undecided again and I have to spend another 24 hours researching the options. This was the most thorough walkthru that I've seen on this unit.
I have only used one Flashforge printer, and my experience is that they work like kitchen appliances. This is excellent if you really want to print and do not want to experiment. Creality printers are a wonderful platform for folks that like to tinker. Two different use cases.
You don't want to put the printer on a stable table. Put it on a wooden/ceramic sheet and put a layer of sponge below. It will dampen vibrations super efficiently. Putting the printer on a fix surface will enhance vibrations
any clue on when the ender 5 s1 pro and plus come around? i love the s1 but i love an s1 plus wit bigger build volume even more! or at least a dual side rail structure.
I just received an Ender-5 S1 from Creality3D so that I can build and refine Marlin 2.1.2 with Input Shaping for the machine. Creality3D is not known to announce and send out firmware upgrades, but maybe they'll make an exception in this case, since Input Shaping has the capability to significantly increase the print speed without any loss of quality. Speaking of Input Shaping, the Marlin team is also working with Ulendo to provide even more and better Input Shaping options later this year. Keep an eye out for the updated Configuration and pre-built Marlin 2.1.2 for Ender-5 S1 shortly!
I bought this at Christmas time and have yet to get it to print. It always says it is outside of the print area. I don't understand why. Could you possibly tell me if you would know why it would do this. I am about ready to throw it out the window, and I am getting no response from Creality.
@@XA-JJKILLERs because they offer like 5x the performance of all the other pre built systems at an extremely competitive price. I care about performance and ease of use, not whether or not the product is open source. That's why people buy macs and iphones
@@MakeWithTech The best is use the kit with all cabling involved. You then just replace the old cabling on the Ender 5 with the new one. However - I don't know if the cables are long enough. The cabling on the Ender 5 is (as far as I know - I have not measured it) longer than on the Ender 3, that's the focus of the kit. Also - Keep in mind that the firmware has to be adapted/tweaked, because the direct drive has a smaller E stepper motor than the Ender 5, so it probably uses less drive current and can overheat when you use the standard current for the bigger stepper motor. It also has a gear, so you definitely have to adjust your E-steps. Other than that I think, because the Ender 3 S1 extruder is (relatively) light-weight, it would be a good replacement of the standard Ender 5 extruder.
At this moment, I am returning mine. I have that bed issue like everyone else where it needs to be tweaked for it to be level. I'm just gonna spend the extra and get a s5 plus or a cr10 max...
I have not had bed issues on any of my S1 models. In some cases people expect the ABL to do too much. You must still manually level the bed periodically and rely on ABL for fine tuning.
@@MakeWithTech I've yet to use the ABL. The bed is so cocked it's barely usable! Seems like a super common issue! I'll trade you for one that works! I was really hoping to keep this machine.
@@MakeWithTech Ender verified the issue as being common. They are taking it back. I'm now wondering if I should go with the same unit and try my luck again, or upgrade to an ender 5 plus or just go big and get the CR10 Max what the s1 makes up for in speed, the plus and max seem to be able to make up for in volume... Any advice?
Great video Doc. The retraction is somewhat high for a direct drive extruder but you have to do what you have to do to make it work. Thanks for the review!
You are correct. I just ran out of time as the supplier of the printer was pushing me to get the review out. I will do a follow up video with a better profile and a discussion about ABL across the S1 line. In many cases the key parameter is temperature. I will also experiment with that.
That price brings it in the area of the Bambu Lab P1P, with smaller build surface and way worse kinematics. Creality should focus again on what they once were good at: low prices!
@@waynefilkins8394 P1P is $699, but you can basically print your own enclosure for it. Of course, if you have the money, the X1 Carbon (around the price you were mentioning) would be even better. As long as you don't want a printer to tinker with...
Thanks for the great video. I own a 5 S1 + Sonic Pad and it's amazing! Regarding stringing... Haven't you tuned the retraction settings for your filament? I would assume the supplied files on the SD card are already optimized for the provided filament; but in Cura that would not be the case.
Hello! Can you tell me what settings / profile do you use? I have Ender 5 S1 + sonic pad and after 10min of print it clogg... It is brand new i bought yesterday. Thank you!
