Ender 3 S1 - The Silence of The Fans

Подписаться 37 тыс.

Просмотров 138 тыс.

50% 1

The Ender 3 Upgrade that lets you Upgrade Your Ender 3.
www.nathansellsrobots.com/
Fan Duct and Squash Ball Feet STLs
/ 62156070
5015 fan and super quiet version: / 62368547
Simplified Fan Mount STLs: / simplified-fan-67965448
Discord Channel: / discord
Pinouts for Ender 3 S1 Hotend Breakout Board
www.nathanbuildsrobots.com/pr...
Products Used (Affiliate Links):
Printer: www.pergear.com/products/crea...
www.pergear.com/products/crea...
amzn.to/3Jcg77M
Flexible Steel PEI Sheet (235x235mm): amzn.to/34olfqI
Fans:
Noctua NF-A20: amzn.to/3HC2CO5
Noctua NF-A4x10: amzn.to/3B6OWbo
Noctua NF-A4x20: amzn.to/3JeAIrS
40mm Blower Fan: amzn.to/3GDz9Cd
Electrical:
Heatsinks: amzn.to/3uzeSeF
Tiny JST Connectors: amzn.to/3B4uata
Shrink Tube: amzn.to/34Ee2T0
12V Zener Diode: amzn.to/3JcQQu5
Buck Converter: amzn.to/3otYGYn
Mechanical:
M3 Bolts: amzn.to/3AUwCm6
T-Slot Nuts: amzn.to/3oxN46s
Squash Ball Feet: amzn.to/3rwAxlL
Duramic PLA: amzn.to/3B8YJOn
Tools:
Sheet Metal Nibblers: amzn.to/3J7J1Wk
Soldering Iron: amzn.to/34k3rgl
Solder: amzn.to/3gANqVL
Drill Bits: amzn.to/3HBfxA4
Torch: amzn.to/3oB5aVj
Intro Skit:(0:00)
Intro:(0:38)
Fan Duct:(1:27)
Hotend Fan Wiring:(2:30)
Base Fan Install:(4:28)
Print Tests: (6:28)
Test Data: (7:32)
Conclusion: (8:34)

Наука

Опубликовано:

15 июл 2024

Ссылка:

Скачать:

Готовим ссылку...

Добавить в:

Мой плейлист

Посмотреть позже

Комментарии : 461

@NathanBuildsRobots 2 года назад

Just to clear something up about the 150C diode at 3:30 I was using a 5V noctua fan instead of a 12V noctua fan at first, so it was overloaded to 480%. After installing the correct 12v fan, it is now running at 36 C.

@Doyle69 2 года назад

Great to know this, the temp put me off doing it :P

@AznDumbum 2 года назад

Oww wow... Ok Zener diode here I come!

@the_edge_of_time Год назад

You probably should update the links above. Noctua as atleast two 200x30mm 12 volt fans. One a using a four pin connector and the other a three pin.

@mo0dz3dprints16 Год назад

So its save to do i dont need a stepper ?

@reassor 11 месяцев назад

5w diode is crazy hot. Tried 2 in parallel same... link the diode parameters you used to get 36c

@ScottYuJan 2 года назад

that intro deserves an Oscar 😂

@NathanBuildsRobots 2 года назад

Yeah. Oh hey, I just realized it's Yu! 👋

@skunkprints7952 2 года назад

You are my hero man. I sincerely appreciate this fresh approach to the world of 3d printing!

@BeyondBeleaf Год назад

I couldn’t say this better myself! He is what this community needs!!

@mrt1426 2 года назад

The opening of this video had me in tears. New to the channel, genius work my friend.

@RichardBronosky 2 года назад

Great work! I'm definitely doing this to my Two Trees Sapphire Plus. It's pretty quiet except for the fans. Right now I'm working on my filament dry storage. Fan upgrades are next.

@NathanBuildsRobots 2 года назад

I want a cube printer! All mine are bed slingers, except for a Voxelab Aries, which isn't very moddable

@wakeupgeoff Год назад

Mate I had a good laugh at the gags in this vid. Looking to upgrade my S1 Pro, Cheers!

@user-ei1ym1lq6h 2 года назад

I subscribe to A LOT of channels... Nathan, you are so damn awesome, you're by faaar my favorite. You add just the right amount of humor when I'm not expecting it. Lol

@NathanBuildsRobots 2 года назад

Thank you, thank you. Thank you very much.

@ashvanes484 2 года назад

ok this intro is awesome; to add, this is all more than I am able to do to a printer, but it's really cool to see. I am pretty keen on the Ender S1 and it might be my 2nd printer.. I am still learning on my Ender 3 that we just got fully set up

@NathanBuildsRobots 2 года назад

Thanks! I wish manufacturers would do more with silent fans. I like a quiet machine. It's doubly important for me because it makes it easier to film and record audio when the fans aren't so loud

@wovenskin 2 года назад

loving these mod videos!

@SpiralDogma1990 Год назад

Finally, someone who cuts out the fan shields. Those create so much turbulence. Just removing them makes a HUGE difference.

@phill7487 2 года назад

That intro was gold

@AndehX 2 года назад

those blowtorch segments always crack me up haha

@MrRfries 2 года назад

I'm going to try one of these fans on my OctoPI. I loved the intro!

@NathanBuildsRobots 2 года назад

Nice, there are 5V versions that you can plug directly in to the Raspberry pi either through USB or on the I/O pins

@fornoobs990 Год назад

Thanks for the work you put into this. I can now print in peace! One thing I discovered was that on my noctua fans (A4x20 and A4x10) the red wire is +12V, not yellow as mentioned. I passed on making a separate cable so maybe thats why.

@NathanBuildsRobots Год назад

That is very interesting! Maybe on the 3 on versions is different? I always get the 4 pin versions

@fornoobs990 Год назад

@@NathanBuildsRobots Yea I looked it up on the noctua page and found this noctua.at/pub/media/wysiwyg/faqs/noctua_pin_configuration_12v_fans.png

@wrxsubaru02 Год назад

5:50 LOL You're underrated. I just subscribed.

@KegRaider 2 года назад

worthy of a sub, thanks for the info mate.

@diy_wizard 2 года назад

Great video! I might think of this when I upgrade from my old ender 3 v2 to a S1, but although your explaination ist grear, it's a whole bunch of work. Especially cutting of the buttom seems like a huge step for me. But a very great video, I loved the beginning :D

@NathanBuildsRobots 2 года назад

Some people just replace the stock fans with quieter versions that are the same size. That is the "smart" way to do it.

@Narsissy Год назад

@@NathanBuildsRobots Could you drop a link to some?

@broossie7902 2 года назад

These video's are very helpful. Subscribed.

@NathanBuildsRobots 2 года назад

I'm here to help!

@zekeq1523 2 месяца назад

lmao that intro was great! thanks for the tutorial too

@davidjernigan8161 2 года назад

For cutting the metal you could get diamond cutoff wheels from harbor freight to use with a dremel.

@NathanBuildsRobots 2 года назад

Cutoff Wheels are a bit tough to cut curves with, but yeah it could be done. Speaking of better tools for the job, I just tried out a 400 watt laser today that would have cut right through this in about 10 seconds. I'll be going back for seconds and making a video about it!

@Krulay 2 года назад

First channel that immediately has been "Patreon"-ed by me. Keep up the good Ender3 S1 (short ESI) content, and developing "that fann" of yours. :D PS.: Please, never be normal.... thnks

@NathanBuildsRobots 2 года назад

Thanks Krulay! I will be making a couple different versions of that fan shroud, 40x20 noctua, 5015 blower, 120mm blower, am I missing anything?

@Krulay 2 года назад

@@NathanBuildsRobots I just try to keep up with you, ordering all the necessary equipment to be your gunnie pig guy relating to ESIs :D I will use ASA to print them, 'cause of its UV resistance. The first one is already printed as a tryout from PLA, one not the stl would be nice if orinted in the printing position. My dream is to make a 12cm Noctua into a cooler in the head (what a nonsense, but fun idea), and also thinking about making a cooling solution, where there is a big cooler is relatively far away from the head, which will be cooled thru a tube. I dont know if pressure and frictions are allowing it, but i like the idea of using something powerful and deliver its stream into the tiny head. A Tube-fun on RU-vid .... See? :D Man i like your style... I hope/wish you will have the same rising viewcount as 'I did a thing' has since i get to know him. ;)

@moulinherve8374 Год назад

Apart from the big resonance of the metal body and the Y motor, it is a good machine. The big fan Noctua eliminates no noise.. But after some printing problems, I discovered a difference of 1mm in horizontal on the X axis. So it is to be monitored and corrected for new users. On your sprite cooling fixture, the fan for the Hot-End looks the same as the standard one? The loudest is the small 30 mm near the CR-Touch

@fuglong 2 года назад

Absolutely love the intro lol

@TechAmbr 2 года назад

Agreed! Adding a bunch of brown to my Ender 3 was one of the best mods I've done to it.

@NathanBuildsRobots 2 года назад

I heard noctua is coming out with some 24v fans for the 3d printing market. It's gonna be sweet!

@TechAmbr 2 года назад

@@NathanBuildsRobots That would simplify things *so much* Buck converters are cheap, but less wires are always welcome!

@onesadtech 6 месяцев назад

Great overview of what goes into this modification! I just installed a Sprite Pro kit on my V2 so I'm not sure if the same fans will work, but I want to figure out something eventually cause the Sprite hotend is actually louder than the V2 one.

@MrKillerHobbes 2 года назад

lol that intro, first time on your channel. insta sub

@TBL_stevennelson 2 года назад

Thanks for such a good video.

@NathanBuildsRobots 2 года назад

Thanks for putting it in the basket!

@EmptyPocketProductions Год назад

Just subbed, What IC was that - the hot one. So the viewers can opt to put a heatsink on there too. THanks

@NathanBuildsRobots Год назад

the one that was in the wire harness was super hot because I was using the wrong size fan

@EmptyPocketProductions Год назад

@@NathanBuildsRobots I mean that hot one on the mainboard

@williamwiese9963 Год назад

Awesome video! I just subbed.🤘 Love nocta fans on my PC looking to get an ender S1 and do this.

@NathanBuildsRobots Год назад

Nice. Good luck and be careful!

@evFPV Год назад

I am keeping the hotend fan (I cut the stl in mesh mixer and kept only the heatbreak fan). I will be using a gelid fan instead of the noctua... they are 50% cheaper. I will receive it tomorrow, so I will check how it performs...

@IsraelMolina1997 Год назад

You have a unique styleee! Nice videeo! Saludos desde Chile. (sorry my english haha)

@NathanBuildsRobots Год назад

Yes, Machu Pichu!

@NathanBuildsRobots Год назад

Oh shit. Machu Pichu is in Peru! Go Chileeee!! 🇨🇱 🌶 🇨🇱 🌶

@OmegaCreationsChannel Год назад

this intro is just next level :D haha

@JavelinD Год назад

Came for the noctua on the S1 mod. Stayed for that into.

@satibel Год назад

if you have pwm control, you can set the max duty cycle to 50% and add a capacitor in parallel to the fan to get 12V instead of using a zener which will get toasty.

@adamix157 9 месяцев назад

Good advice, but the cap needs to be big enough ;)

@cartaphyllus5086 2 года назад

I’d love to see this setup with a 5015 blower fan, I literally have like 6 extra just laying around haha

@NathanBuildsRobots 2 года назад

I got you covered www.patreon.com/posts/62368547

@SuperPablo565 10 месяцев назад

Thanks for this great video. One question: Where to connect the voltage for the fan, placing the voltage reducer. Thank you

@danielharris3827 Год назад

I had a HeroMe set up on my E3P and all Noctua except part cooling which used 2 5015s. I just got a sprite, and it is LOUD! But, I don't know how I feel about modding the Sprite yet... I really need to build another machine. Like the eyeballs!

@smkole2 2 года назад

your hysterical!

@randomadventures125 2 года назад

Really good video and I already started with the part cooling fan and already saw some huge improvements but my question is what did you do with the old cooling fan for the hot end did you just leave it in there unplugged or what happened with that

@NathanBuildsRobots 2 года назад

I removed it so it doesn't impede the airflow, but you could probably leave it in there. If i left it in, I would consider running it and the noctua fan at 12v in parallel, with the 2nd noctua flow direction reversed so they arent fighting, if you catch my drift.

@MichaelWatersJ 2 года назад

The intro is like the adult swim version of CNC kitchen. I love it.

@woodcat7180 2 года назад

And I was told putting 120mm fans on my E3v2 was an overkill. Great intro btw.

@satibel Год назад

you can get noctua redux fans which are grey and cheaper because they only come with the fan and a set of screws instead of all the adapters

@LordHonkInc 2 года назад

I've been using a 40x20 12V noctua for hotend cooling and a 120mm beQuiet (undervolted to 5V) in a custom electronics case and have had zero problems since I've installed them; the coldend has pretty much the same temp as stock (measured by hand) and the raspberry pi and motherboard run at around 35 celsius during prints (measured by klipper firmware). Should get to replacing the stock blower sometime, but procrastination is a strict mistress xD I've heard the 40x10 noctua is a bit underpowered, cooling-wise, though I haven't verified that claim myself; I just bought the 40x20 since the only good reason for the 10mm thin one is that it's a drop-in replacement for the stock mount (size-wise; you still have to regulate the voltage). Love the detailed walkthrough, though I personally would recommend using a second DC-DC buck converter instead of the zener. Not that it doesn't work - quite evidently it does - but I just don't like the thought of a passive component just toasting away in a cable somewhere. Again, just a personal recommendation and not a "don't do that" :)

@doestilvoort1 2 года назад

@LordHonklnc Where did you use the 120mm fan?

@aggarwaldipesh 2 года назад

"If you go blind, you wouldn't be able to watch my videos anymore" 😂😂😂😂 Great content man. Keep up the great work.

@NathanBuildsRobots 2 года назад

Somewhat of a recurring joke on my channel, that I'm more worried about my view count than your safety 😆 But really, staying safe is more important. So take your time and protect yourself!

@george1999days 2 года назад

I am a fan of this channel

@NathanBuildsRobots 2 года назад

But are you a big fan or a little fan? Both are welcome BTW

@djispro4272 Год назад

NONONONONO with that power supply cover!

@user-pn7pc8od8f 2 месяца назад

This might be kind of a stupid question, but where do you plug the wires for the hotend/part cooling, cause even if I remove the original part cooling fan, one of the ports is still occupied?

@DursunX Год назад

im here for the Lamb's reference... oh and i also own noisey beasts

@mrmechano Год назад

Noctua are expensive, the stock fans powered at 12-15v are sufficient. I didn't buy any particular fan and used the stock one with dc dc step down mini bucks. I've the Ender 3 V2 Neo, and now it's silent without any particular mods, simply I've used Mini 360 bucks on the stock PSU and mainboard fans that I've choosen from 12-15v till obtain low noise and still good airflow. And opened with a cupsaw the power supply cover to have more air flow. On the hot end I've used a Sunon MF40202V2-1000C-A99 DC 24V 0.68W 40x40x20mm achieved for 21 db. I don't need any other special mods, now my Ender 3 print's well and has very low noise.

@keithkolmos5933 Год назад

Wow. I can't believe how quiet this makes my Ender 3 S1. Nathan you are AWESOME. Thank you so much. I do have a question for you though.......I notice when I am printing...if I have a light plugged into the same surge strip, I see flicker in the light. Do I need a better surge strip? A better power supply in the printer? Or should I get a UPS to try and isolate the conducted emissions coming off the printer?

@NathanBuildsRobots Год назад

It's common for LED lights to be very sensitive to voltage fluctuations. So I would say its normal, as long as you are not overloading it. Most surge stops are good for over 800 watts. I'm glad the mods helped!

@crosbyhayton 8 месяцев назад

Hi, probably too late to help, but my Ender 3 S1 did this because the switchable PSU was set to 240v from the factory. I flipped the switch to 120v, and the flickering went away.

@3dprint4u 2 года назад

That new mount for fans looks great, i saw u swapped the heaterblock and maybe even heatbreak. What are u running?

@NathanBuildsRobots 2 года назад

I did the install here. Though if I were to do it again I'd use the slice engineering heatbreak, whi h should fit in without using a hacksaw. And if I wanted to do it the easiest way, I'd use the slice heatbreak and a mk8 CHT or stock nozzle, and keep the old heater block. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-YrIYvhOGAs4.html

@Sticknmove77 Год назад

I attempted to install the buck converter to the power supply but got paranoid and stopped. How did you power your converter? It doesn't look like it's connected to the PSU in the vid. Thanks!

@FilamentMunchers 7 месяцев назад

Hi, Nathan, I was just wondering something. Do these fan mounts fit the Creality Pro Sprite Extruder, and if they do which STL does?

@ComputersArentReal Год назад

Hey man, thanks for the great video! I saw in one of your patreon write ups that the parts cooler blower fan can be replaced with a Noctua NF-A4x20. Did you ever try this configuration? I feel like the Noctua fan would be quieter than the blower, so I'm curious what your reasoning was for choosing it. Can't wait to test these mods out on my S1 :)

@NathanBuildsRobots Год назад

Yes, I have models for it and they are on my Patreon, but the best config is the 5015 fan, best part cooling

@MilanMailaVasicek 2 года назад

When you will make video with improvements of S1 Pro? :-) And really nice videos!

@asilgado Год назад

Fantastic video, thank you very much! Why don't you put one (or two) buck converter(s) from 24v to 12v between the motherboard and the wire into the case?

@NathanBuildsRobots Год назад

I figured the always on approach is more failsafe than running it through the motherboard. There might be cases where the PSU is on and drawing lots of power, but the motherboard fan is off (like when heating up the bed at the start of a print).

@IndrekPajuste 6 месяцев назад

Hi, from the video it seems that you're controlling the hotend fan speed somehow. But as I understand, only the part cooling fan has pwm control. Can you elaborate on this?

@jpsfish5966 2 года назад

These get better and better each time. I just put one of these bad boys on my Aquila and a SKR Mini 3.0. Too bad nothing happened when I turned it on…not sure what I did wrong yet.

@NathanBuildsRobots 2 года назад

A multimeter is great for checking to see if your wires are done correctly, if the fan is seeing 12v it will turn on! Just remember , positive to yellow, negative to black.

@jpsfish5966 2 года назад

Thanks. I just got a multimeter and have yet to try it out. I don’t think the fan is the issue. They don’t boot up with the board on the 3.0. The stock board fried when the hot end hit the bed. So both the fan and the board are new. This should be a drop in for the Aquila X2 but nothing powered up. I probably did something wrong. But hey I didn’t see sparks or smoke, so any crash you can walk away from right?

@NathanBuildsRobots 2 года назад

@@jpsfish5966Damm, how did you run the hotend into the bed? That shouldn't be possible!

@jamesdodson5554 2 года назад

Heyo! I'm trying to do this and sorry I'm slow but at one point you seem to be using a 40x20 noctua and then at the end it looks like a 40x10? Which one are you using for the hot end cooling? Also are you leaving the original fan located on the left side of the extruder assembly?

@NathanBuildsRobots 2 года назад

Either will work. The 40x20 fan I later realized was a 5 volt variant, so it was drawing too much current. I took out the original mini fan

@Github_tech_with_ty 2 года назад

The beginning of this creeps me out for some reason

@NathanBuildsRobots 2 года назад

🤫 😶

@CallmeBigfat 2 года назад

Fix the links on the thingiverse post, they are all messed up and go to the wrong thing thanks

@VicHaunter Год назад

Did you created at the end the version with 2 5015? i am interested in thankyou

@NathanBuildsRobots Год назад

I have not yet. I'm working on a new breakout board PCB for the Ender 3 S1, I'll be designing some new fan mounts for that soon.

@ethancase1872 2 года назад

masterpiece

@angelherrera4855 Год назад

for the buck converter is there somewhere you can have me look for a better idea on how to get it done. i get that you install it right off the psu just curious how. i have not popped mine open yet so haven't a clue. parts are in the mail because jesus is that psu fan driving me crazy.

@martinsaur8819 Год назад

nice video! going for it asap, do you keep the fan on the left side of the sprite? I don't understand where to plug 2 fan if you do keep the one on the left could you explain that to me? my English isn't that good so I might not have understood something in the video! good job anyway!

@NathanBuildsRobots Год назад

Yes, you can remove the left side fan. Also, if you join the discord you can ask about other fan mods for the hotend. There are some good options out there that aren’t by me

@pimmen85 Год назад

i see substansial "wobbling" of the whole printer i i go even a little bit fast, are you compensation the softer/higher feet with slow print speed?

@reneetje4749 Год назад

Hi Nathan, great video and i’m using your design with a 5015 fan. For the hotend fan i’m using a ultra small buck converter and all works well. I was wondering if you could share the step file so i can make an addition to hold the converter. Greetings from René from the Netherlands.

@NathanBuildsRobots Год назад

I have shared the F3D file on my Patreon. These can be opened in Fusion 360 www.patreon.com/posts/69426214 Let me know if you can access them

@Pseudonymo.K Год назад

Hi Nathan, just another question. Do u know if you can regulate the Hotend Fan per voltage or pwm? I use Klipper if this matters (which I can really recommend its awsome) Or do I need to use a buck converter or have to find a free port on the mainboard?

@NathanBuildsRobots Год назад

Yes, I think so. But the motherboard and PSU fans are on full blast as soon as you turn the machine on.

@817abn Год назад

I added just the parts fan only version and I'm having issues with the fan not coming on/ not coming on full power because of the extruder motor. Did u have this problem? I'm using the fan from your parts list

@NathanBuildsRobots Год назад

Yes I had that issue. Which version are you using? The issue was documented in the 5015, but I posted a fixed version. Is it the 4020 blower? I might need to modify that one too, moving the fan upwards

@daniele2204 Год назад

What voltage is the stock PSU fan? I have a Ender 3 S1 plus and my mainboard fan is 60mm.

@JacobTech-3567 6 месяцев назад

Have you let prints run for a long time using this setup? I ask because I have a similar setup (slightly different design) using 2x 4020 Sunon Maglev axial fans (One for hotend and one for part cooling), and heat creep inevitably sets in for any print longer than 60 mins in duration. Upon further reading Noctua NF-A4X10 has a lower CFM than the Sunon fan. However, the Noctua provides higher static pressure. Can you advise please? Great video as always Nathan.

@NathanBuildsRobots 6 месяцев назад

I didn't have any issues. The way I designed this it provides much more cooling than some others I have looked at. The fan recirculates air against the parts its up against, in addition to pushing air through the heatsink. I've since swapped the hotend over to using an entirely different printhead (Microswiss NG)

@JacobTech-3567 6 месяцев назад

@NathanBuildsRobots I'll try a few setups. Thanks for your reply.

@mr.hammer1507 2 года назад

thanks for the perfect guide! A question regarding the height of the air flow, should it be directed exactly at the tip of the nozzle, or more higher at the nozzle (ie just below the heat block)?

@NathanBuildsRobots 2 года назад

I go for just below the heater block. IMO half of the air should hit in front of the printed area and half should go behind, so you get more even results at different directions.

@ronnifletcher3515 2 года назад

I just got my printer and printed another print head with the two jets mainly cos it reminded me of an octopus :D and I was put off by the 150 degrees, I'm so glad that is not an issue for the 12v fan. While it does indeed look cool, now when I print anything with infill I have pan pipes... And I can't add the side fan. Other than that the difference over the stock is so significant. Are the dual jets better/worse or the same in terms of output? Or does the fan improvement mean that it is now so over powered it doesn't matter?

@Lurker1222 Год назад

A: that intro is cinematic art. B: I did the notcua fan mod to my Fokoos Odin 5 and haven't looked back.

@NathanBuildsRobots Год назад

Nice… the giant fan looks awesome and does a great job of cooling things with virtually no noise. Best thing is when you flip your printer on and second guess if you forgot to plug it in or broke it because you don’t hear a thing!

@Lurker1222 Год назад

@@NathanBuildsRobots My printer has an annoying *BEEEEEEP* Every time you turn it on. I'm so OCD about the noise that I got some thick foam double sided tape and covered the little black speaker on the board haha.

@Aikaramba12 6 месяцев назад

You probably mentioned it, but is the old hotend fan still there, but diconnected?

@avgjoeshow4208 2 года назад

I want to do this but I don’t wanna go cutting any wires. Can’t I just get a 12v fan instead of buying the 24 and messing with wires?

@sdbruder Год назад

You got the 24V for your buck converter directly from the power source our from one of the fans output (board or power source)?

@NathanBuildsRobots Год назад

From the power supply, it’s just turns on whenever the printer is on that way

@eenig8730 2 года назад

Very nice video. Hope some one like u design something like this for the cr10 smart pro. Dont actually know if the hotend is same messurements but seems like it .

@NathanBuildsRobots 2 года назад

Yeah it looks the same to me, it would probably fit. I'd like to get one and test it out, but $699 is to expensive for me right now.

@eenig8730 2 года назад

@@NathanBuildsRobots 699 is also heavy price. But when I get it i am gonna try your fan duckt on it. If it fits , i would love to see your design with som kinda cooling from both sides, and maybe 5015 blower fan for more pressure. .

@NathanBuildsRobots 2 года назад

@@eenig8730 a lot of ppl are asking for 4020 noctua, 5015, and 120mm blowers so I'll make all 3 and post them this week

@eenig8730 2 года назад

@@NathanBuildsRobots lovly .. U are the best

@Zane65205 2 года назад

Another great video! I think my ender 3 S1 is too precious to me to do a silent fan mod. I am quite the noob at modding and I don't really want to risk breaking it. But I still love the mod!

@NathanBuildsRobots 2 года назад

Is like to make those adapters and sell them. Do you think $15 for a 2 pack is reasonable?

@JoeSchmoe24 2 года назад

@@NathanBuildsRobots I would pay that.

@WasNiksIsNiksWordtNiks 2 года назад

@@NathanBuildsRobots very

@giraffehunter2848 2 года назад

@@NathanBuildsRobots I would be very interested

@rsunghun 2 года назад

@@NathanBuildsRobots my ender 3 s1 has arrived few days ago and I wish you sell them.

@Sticknmove77 Год назад

Great vid, I’ve been piecing all of the parts needed for this mod and had a question. Is the fan on the left side (cr touch side) unplugged or is it running? That fan seems to be the loudest stock fan on the S1.

@NathanBuildsRobots Год назад

I removed that fan. I might also recommend the modder board as it makes fan installs like this easier, but you can get it done either way

@Sticknmove77 Год назад

Thanks dude! Love the vids 💪🏽

@ricojacobs6530 2 года назад

LOVE! Just recently picked up an Ender3S1 First thing I started doing was googling and youtubing mods lol I tried to follow your patreon link to pay/get the print file for this but the link is broken :(

@NathanBuildsRobots 2 года назад

It's working for me www.patreon.com/posts/62156070

@elliottmyers29 10 месяцев назад

I don't know how to wire, is there a way I can do this mod without wiring?

@kennedysamarakody4925 9 месяцев назад

Does the Ender 3 S1 already comes with a fan inside?

@elijahf111 2 года назад

you should do a comparison with the upgraded printer and an original ender with non silent stepper drivers

@NathanBuildsRobots 2 года назад

Non-silent stepper drivers? Never again...

@Serbo-Greek 2 года назад

The sound that my S1 pro makes is crazy. Just the fans. I need to replace them. I would like to see another video for the pro version, maybe more updated with links to buy the thinks we need. That would be awsome.

@NathanBuildsRobots 2 года назад

The fan replacement process should be very similar for the Pro, but I may do another episode on S1 Pro fan replacement. It won't be out until next month, but it should be interesting. At higher speeds the Y axis on my Pro is loud compared to the normal S1, almost to the point where the fan noise doesnt matter.

@Serbo-Greek 2 года назад

@@NathanBuildsRobots Thank you for your work! I will wait, and I will share the video in this facebook group that are s1/s1 pro owners only. This would be very helpful. (P.S. if possible, try with less crazy thing, cutting the bottom so mutch and cutting original cables, are very scary things to see)

@G4UL 2 года назад

i've realised I added this to another persons question by mistake - adding here in case it gets missed/hijacks their quewstion etc ...I just got my printer and printed another print head with the two jets mainly cos it reminded me of an octopus :D and I was put off by the 150 degrees, I'm so glad that is not an issue for the 12v fan. While it does indeed look cool, now when I print anything with infill I have pan pipes... And I can't add the side fan. Other than that the difference over the stock is so significant. Are the dual jets better/worse or the same in terms of output? Or does the fan improvement mean that it is now so over powered it doesn't matter?

@G4UL 2 года назад

and apparently now I am using my son's acct. le sigh... old person here sorry.

@Daniel_Wolf Год назад

THanks. Nice work. Isn´t good idea use a zenner. Maybe was good use a 7812 IC Regulator. More disipation, less hot

@gasparigi 2 года назад

Ender 3 V2 had that problem, if you turn off part cooling the mainboard fan is also turned off. Is that the case with S1?

@NathanBuildsRobots Год назад

I'm not sure, but it seems like they carried over some of the design flaws from the Ender 3, so it wouldn't surprise me. The motherboard fan is constantly on unless you unplug the machine, which is really annoying to me.

@therelentlesscreator3938 6 месяцев назад

yeah i would like to do this but i don't want to hack up the brand new 3d printer im about to buy although i am thinking about buying that tube deletebut that will be later after i find out if i like it or not

@nathankean7968 Год назад

Does the noctua help with the over hangs? I can’t get over 60 with just the 4020

@NathanBuildsRobots Год назад

The Noctua 4020 axial fans dont move a lot of air due to their low static pressure. A 4020 blower fan or 5015 blower fan would get you at least 75 degree overhangs. For reference, the stock fan is a 4010 blower fan

@JustCreateYou Год назад

What is that hotend you using on this sprite direct drive ? And can I just use what I have and just order the hotend?

@NathanBuildsRobots Год назад

Check out the CHT videos. I was using a slice engineering copperhead heater block, and Bimetallic heatbreak. I have also be experimenting with CHC heaters, which are much simpler to install because it's all integrated into a single part amzn.to/3EEmFgg

@bwloawesome Год назад

Your bolts in the part list above go to an m2 set. Will those work?

@NathanBuildsRobots Год назад

The Amazon listing got changed, I updated it to a new M3 set.

@khoiNguyen-ws7wc 2 года назад

Hi nathan I saw picture : yellow wire ( from noctua fan) connect to diode. Is it right? Yellow wire of noctua control speed.

@NathanBuildsRobots 2 года назад

Hi Khoi, in my experience with Noctua fans, yellow is positive, black is ground. Blue/green are PWM wires. Other manufacturers assign yellow to PWM sometimes. Check out this article by Noctua: noctua.at/en/what-pin-configuration-do-noctua-products-use

@CraftWireServeren 2 года назад

Could you make the 5015 fan version ? :)

@NathanBuildsRobots 2 года назад

Yes www.patreon.com/posts/62368547

@Promethium666 Год назад

This is a brilliant cooler, it printed fantastically and it's such a nice addition. I followed the wiring guide for the noctua flx 40x10 and the zenner diode as shown but when connecting the fan and testing it i get nothing from it, could that be a bad zenner diode? I checked the pins when making the connector so the wires match polarity.

@NathanBuildsRobots Год назад

The noctua 3 pin and 4 pin use different wires for the + side. One uses red, other uses yellow. Try checking the pinout for your specific fan

@Promethium666 Год назад

@@NathanBuildsRobots I looked up a pin diagram and yeah I was wired up to the speed sensor (yellow) and not the 12v (red) as i butchered the wires directly from the fan. Many thanks for your help, your videos, and your modderboard Nathan, mine just came today :) Cheers mate, keep on moddin!

@Wiikendzgoodmix 2 года назад

Would you mind sharing all youre retraction settings? Cant seem to get rid of stringing on my stock S1..

@NathanBuildsRobots 2 года назад

I use 1.2mm of retraction and get good results. I go over how I set up my print profiles in Prusaslicer on my website: www.nathanbuildsrobots.com/testing/ender3s1

@brandonpinkney880 2 года назад

I am likely just going to replace each fan directly for the power supply and motherboard to start. I got a screencap of the motherboard fan (CHA6024RL-15B 24V 0.10A), but not the power supply fan. If you still have it kicking around, can you let me know what part it is? Thanks!

@NathanBuildsRobots 2 года назад

I haven't looked at my S1 in a while, been tied up getting a couple reviews made. But I will be looking at my S1 hopefully in a couple weeks and I can check.