need to mention that mosquito will allow you to print every material where the stock extruder is limited to around 240c before you start having issue so will be very limited to your material choices. The mosquito is for sure worth the money if you want a great hotend.
Not changing retraction settings after changing from stock to all metal hotend is a common point of failure. Maybe because people are excited to print right away after successfully swapping out the hotend. Glad you mentioned it. 👍😀
Thanks Chris, really cool that you keep them coming. The community appreciates your deep dives! as you are talking about speed; i know you have already done a video, but things have matured a lot: Klipper! I manage to do good.15 LH benchies with a .3 nozzle in 1h10m using Klipper on a corexy; i switched back and forth with Marlin/Klipper, and Marlin could not handle the crazy speed of my profile (100mms, 3000accel, 200mms non print move)- even on my 32 bit skr board. From a visual standpoint it is amazing to see the steppers fly and the machine is trying not to fall apart, whilst still producing a decent result. Maybe a fun challenge to see how far speed can be pushed?
Well done for renaming the original files. Ive seen others not do this. Newbies can end up in a mess if they can't go back to the Original Settings because they overwrote them using the wrong files.. It's Good Practice to do things this way, in general.
My recommended upgrades for the ender 3 is the bond tech direct drive extruder with an all metal hotend. I went with the e3d v6 as already had spare parts from my prusa. Honestly after going to direct drive and an all metal hotend I just use my prusa profiles from prusa slicer and results are near identical. Edit: I use the bontech bmg clone on Amazon.
The real reason to get one of these is that it doesnt fail nearly as often. Put hundreds of spools of carbon fiber nylon through it. This hotend is probably more for folks like me who print higher temp materials like polycarbonate. A stock v6 lasted 2 prints at 320c
in all honesty yes. but keep in mind the clone people don't have to pair any engineers that designed it. but in reality. the good thing about this is just convenience + size and lack of the need for a big fancy fan and all that. the thermal efficiency is amazing on this. but as long as you don't want an all metal even the cheap stuff work. but their thermistors usually suck and are inaccurate. for me I got a dirt cheap clone and just bought a genuine thermistor from e3d and a titanium heatbreak from 3d passion and it works great :)
Great video Chris, It was really interesting to see this on a bowden set up over a direct drive. I think you came up with some good results, essentially dropping the retract down from ~4 to ~2.5. The mosquito really does cool better. Thanks for putting in all that benchy time.
Now I can't really justify a hot end like that for the ender , so I'm off to buy a 90mm hot end cooling fan to see how well I can cool the hot end . 🤣🤣 Retraction be gone!! 🤣🤣
Another great informative video! Was just discussing retraction settings today with a friend and wondering what the impact of reducing that amount was. Now I know!
@@ChrisRiley very much looking forward to it. Also picked up the heating element and thermistor, so I've got the whole package on the way. Gonna upgrade to a 120v bed at some point in the near future, and it'll be complete (for a time)!
Ran a microswiss at 4mm/35 for a long time. Then I enabled linear advance and cut it down to 1mm. Used Teaching Tech's retraction tower. Is it strange that I've never printed a benchy? Lol.
I like your videos - there is certainly space to improve (audio quality would be my first choice) but I definitely enjoy experiments you show and less "look at my prints" more "you can try this and this will help" approach. Your videos tend to save me from some problems although often show something that I've already tried and loose some hair figuring out what to do ;) Keep up the good job!
Seasoning the heatbreak , retraction length and retraction speed and how they effect the print and the speed of printing is good information even if you use a cheap E3D clone...
I wonder how much of a difference the new hotend actually made, my guess is that most of the quality improvement was from switching to the new nozzle itself..... maybe...
Thanks Chris. Great presentation for a begginer like me who want to upgrade his original hot end at his Ender 5 Pro. I have understood a lot of things. Thumb up ! ( If I may ... For God sake, speak not so fast we are not all americans, lol !)
I applaud your passion for making videos, but i think in this case you focused on the wrong thing. The hotend has little to do with retraction settings, the hotzone is very small compared to the flex that the bowden tube has when retracting. Theoretically with a rigid tube (if a rigid flex tube was possible) the retraction would be the same as with a direct drive printer. The way to reduce the distance of the retraction is a shorter, stiffer and better quality bowden tube + great quality couplers
I wouldn't buy this as I would say my standard Ender 3 results are better than this upgrade using Cura 4.0 and Luke Hadfield's profile and Flashforge PLA at 60/210 degrees, however, I would like to see this setup with a dialed in profile
you sir, well...you must be a coder, because we are the only ones that "enjoy" this type of "torture". So, does that mean your print height has decreased?
Ok, for instance, I installed this Mosquito on Ender3. What the maximum speed will I get? Now I have stable 90mm/s...I had very hot motors after 15h print. Will I get...120-150 with this cinematic (without changing motors, probably not)? P.S. I realized that you did and why) it is just my question. Thanks for experiment.
Using Slice Engineering's cooling fan is terrible. The resonance travels right down to the tip of the nozzle (while performing Z offset, tip was vibrating the glass bed) and that's gonna end up in the print as ringing or such. Have you had any issues with the vibrations?
Hey Chris, Great video once again! Have you got any idea what the Z difference is between this hotend, and the stock Creality hotend? I want to put a Slice Engineering Mosquito Magnum on my Ender 5+ But I will need to make a adjustment to the bltouch sensor which came preinstalled on that machine.
I'd like to know your thoughts on the piper3d printer or other emt projects such as the mpcnc/lowrider v2 and tall string/emt printer at MRRF this year
Beware if you are using Linux and installed Arduino IDE from the repository, In Debian based distros (ubuntu, mint) i think everything is ok but for all the others if you just downloaded Arduino IDE you might wanna see if you have a programmer selected in the tools section otherwise you will get the same bootloader error on a machine that already has a bootloader
@@ChrisRiley I wonder if a "legit Chinese copy" of microswiss from TriangleLab would be in the same ballpark. Mostly printing PETG and ABS at the moment... Hmmm... PETG is stringy so lower retractions should probably help.
@@ChrisRiley not at all. I set up a short but quick retraction after reading about how retraction mostly works to release built up pressure of the filament in the bowden tube. Think like a spring. So a fast retraction is best to release that energy and keep the filament from oozing. a short fast retraction I have also found helps with seams in the perimeters. The filament doesn't cool too much and the flow of melted plastic doesn't slow down too much either so you get a more consistent flow at the beginning of a perimeter.
Thanks for the video! Nice approach off the beaten path to reduce retraction! 😂 I went the opposite way (0$) ending at 0.8mm with direct extruder. www.thingiverse.com/make:621440 Still, big thumbs up to the guys at slice engineering for this piece of art!
Too many steps for the noob to follow. Do this - go watch this- ....I see no discernible difference between the stock end and the more expensive one. I'll stick with Stock. Good video though!
Stop repeating the same false statement everyone seems to like. Marlin does NOT require a bootloader to run. A bootloader is OPTIONAL. It's only needed to update over usb. Leaving it out will save space and allow a few extra features. From the marlin wiki: "Once you have a programmer you can use it to install Marlin directly, but we recommend installing a bootloader first, then following the easy instructions above."
