You made a great board. I got a new 24v fan and it works great. I'm happy to know I have a bigger window for upgrades down the road. I'm also happy to report that both Wathai 5015 Blower Fan and WINSINN 5015 Blower 50mmx15mm 2PIN Fans with the fan mod fit in the Spriteburner v2. I almost forgot, you have to flip the positive and negative pins on the fan in order to make it work with the Mod Board since negative and positive are reversed on the board, otherwise the fan won't spin.
Nice. For the standard ender 5 I did something similar, but the 60x60x25 - took the PSU cover off and then used brass stand offs to list the lid up to make space. I also replaced the 4010 fan and reversed the direction to pull cool air in and expel it with the other one. The PSU fan is temperature controlled so it only comes on sometimes. The stand offs reduce the resonance as well. It was a bit of a mistake, but worked.
Hey Nathan I love your videos, you inspired me to get into 3d printing and tinkering with the printer itself. I have a ender 3 s1, running klipper on a RaspberryPi and soon to add a breakout board when it arrives! Keep on making the great stuff and I will try to follow in your footsteps to make these cool mods! Ps: My project next year is to add a Enraged Rabbit Carrot Feeder once I figure out how to make it work with a Sprite extruder haha.
Hey Nathan, I just wanted to let you know that the fan grill on the power supply fan is probably making the bulk of the noise. I have a similar power supply, I replaced the fan inside it to a 92mm one with a 3D printed cover that had no fan grill, and then I took the old power supply fan and used it to cool the mainboard (on my old printer) - without the weird fan grill - and it sounded much quieter. So just removing the fan grill off the power supply cover might mitigate most of the noise.
Should be getting the Sonic Pad tomorrow... I heard the new firmware for it was bricking people's sonic pads. Wish they would just open source it and let the community figure out the software configuration.
adding the resistor on the board permanently and allowing it to be toggled on or bypass using a micro switch so users don't have to risk destroying the board by soldering it without experience or proper tools might be something to try on the next version of the board. It is nice that you gave the solder points some space from the rest of the circuit, but don't underestimate the human capacity to catastrophically fuck shit up
True. I want to build a buck converter into the next version. If someone is not capable of soldering it themselves, hopefully they can find someone who can, or use it as a learning opportunity. If it's too daunting I would just recommend people to not install it and stick to 24V fans.
I changed the fans in my power supplies on my Ender 5 Plus machines and it is so so quiet, I have my printers in my workshop and before I got the 5+ printers I had Ender 3's in there and didnt bother changing the fans as they were loud but not annoying but the 5+ printers are in another league, I could hear them outside the workshop thats how loud they were!
If you do a full klipper install (not with the sonic pad) with a Pi or equivalent, you can add canbus and use a canbus toolboard. I have a canbus toolboard on my voron, and I klipirized my older bed slinger, and put a canbus toolboard on it too. Now just need 4 wires going to the toolboard -- not 24 or however many the ribbon cable has. I've migrated my big 4 headed printer to canbus as well, a huge reduction in amount of wires it uses.
I would like to try Canbus eventually. It's nice to have less wires but you need more microcontrollers and stuff. Plus, doesn't it rule out anything besides klipper?
Perhaps you can mount the resistor on the other side of the board, so when it heats up it doesn't damage your plastic connectors. It seems you have room to do so...
Might have glass beads put on resistor as that was old way to stand it off board, love the board will be getting one, the phone connectors when you squeeze them it’s called insulation displacement
You could do like a toolhead board for the Ender 3 that also works with Micro swiss direct drive as i have one installed with an cable out board down close to the mainboard so you could tiddy it up a bit more and use a single cable im unsure if its possible but just an idea.
So many ideas, so little time! Not sure I get the idea of a toolhead board. There is a way to install the modder board in the base of the machine, then run standard cables out to the hotend. But I like taking advantage of the 24-pin connector. Its pretty nice!
I don't think you *need* it, a it doesn't offer anything above what a modded ender 3 v2 offers, but it is an interesting form factor and can go slightly faster with better components in the stock configuration, so your call!
Really love your channel I am about to buy the Ender 5 S1 shortly your channel is full of useful information thanks for all your time and effort, but if you ever make another revision there are small cheap plug in models of like 7812 that are switch mode power supplies. Then you can go for more powerhungry fans too :)
thats basically a good idea but you have a around 2W heater with this module next to the stepper motor in an Ender 5 S1 so if you use the 7812 you need an additional heatsink for it
Hey Nathan, met you at ERRF. Couldn’t agree more with you about creality machines basically being tinker grade. Just wanted to float an idea, what are thoughts on making a similar breakout board to work with tool changers like the hermit crab or mutant?
Could be interesting. I will have to look into those products in more detail. Would it be too add sprite compatibility to those systems? Or just make them more moddable in general?
@@NathanBuildsRobots a bit of both I’d say. I’m going from a Sprite to the hermit crab right now. Ideally I’d just like to have one of tool plates taken but by the Sprite. IMHO the hermit crab would be better if it used a flat ribbon cable and if the wiring terminals were in a different spot. During assembly of the hermit crab you have to remove and reinstall the PCBs anyways, I’d imagine if someone were crafty enough they could design a better PCB.
@1:00...wth would you use a resistor instead of an LDO? They cost basically nothing, are a single T0-220 package, aren't gonna get hot, and can do like...2-3A... Look up the L7812 - they have a wide voltage input, 12v output, with very few components (practically none), and can do 2A easy. Without being a fire hazard...
Do those have short circuit protection built-in? I can add them in the next revision, but I think they burn off the power, but if they are soldered to the board it will have a lot more dissapative power. Would also need to probably use a capacitor too?
Join us on Discord: discord.gg/pZW7femQaJ First thing I would check si the correct polarity for the noctua fan wires as well as where they are attached to the board. The backside of the board has +/- markings to tell which pin is which polarity, and the noctua fan documentation says which color wire is which polarity. Just remember that the + is red on one model and yellow on another. look up the noctua fan pinout for 3 or 4 pin fans depending on which you have
You can, but generally part cooling fans are higher powered, which means you end up dumping more heat into the resistor. I don’t like using resistive limiting for anything over 100mA
I have this board on my klippered ender 3 s1. I plugged in a 24v 5015 fan to either the 24v slots and it doesn't run. I splice the fan into the JST creality wire and it works. is there a code that I have to input into the printer configuration file to make those fan works ok those slot?
I would check the fan polarity. There are + and - leads on the back of the board. Lots of fans and cables have the red and black wires switched, since there is no standardized polarity. Can you join the discord and ask there? It helps to be able to see pictures of the setup.
@@NathanBuildsRobots I am having the same kind of issue and I am using sonic pad, I plugged the original heater fan into the side spot instead of the top with the JST and it worked there so I am thinking I have to go into the config file to change the pin location but I am trying to figure out what the other would be named.
Just bought the modder board from your site since the stock fan decided it was going to lose 3 fins ;) didn't do anything to it, just heard it vibrating really bad after a long 2 day print. Question for you if the modder board I bought does it have the limiter already soldered on ?
I leave it off in case someone decides to plug in a fan that draws too much current as it could melt some things. The idea is that if you solder it in yourself, you’ll prove enough electrical knowledge to know how to not mess it up. It’s really only meant for noctua fans or similar low power fans.
Nathan, you say in this video the the E5S1 is more for modding, and that its not like some other printers where they are just great out of the box.. I am curious, what are these "great out of the box" printers?
@@thomase907 I would get this or the P1P. P1P is better in the sense that it works with no fussing around, and is faster. Easier to put together and start using, very little tweaking/tuning required on your end to get the most out of it. Downside is the Bambu Cloud stuff and lack of DIY serviceability is not my cup of tea. I like the Ender 5 S1 printer because it’s more fun to work on. You have to set aside $100-$200 to spend on upgrades to tailor it to your liking. It’s much more of a project than the P1P, but not as much of a project as a Voron kit build. It’s a worse design by almost any metric. It I have a lot of fun with mine.
If I were going to start my own print farm, another option would be to get 2-3 artillery sidewinders. Great printers, easy to assemble, massive build volume, decently fast, Super cheap.
@@NathanBuildsRobots Okay so I did a deep dive on the P1P last night and it ended with an order completed for it haha this machine looks amazing man, its exactly what i've been looking for. Thank you for your help and suggestion!
@@NathanBuildsRobots thank appreciate the offer..i bought all new fans last night though..thanks for the speed too..was not expecting to get it already
Can you check the + and - to see if it matches up with the fan’s positive and negative? Sometimes it’s backwards. If you hop on discord I can take a look at the wiring and help out more
Hi Nathan, I just received Modder Board v2. My question is I have the Wathai 5015 Blower Fan 12V, I already modded it to make it fit in the Spriteburner too. But, Did I buy the wrong voltage 5015 fan, should it been the 5v instead of the 12v? Still confused about the resistor part, Thank you in advance. Chris
Hey @@NathanBuildsRobots Since you have a source for that connector I got an idea I would like to run by you if you have 5 min at some point. it should be very simple but I don't have the skills to draw up pcb's. We share a few discord channels so I should be easy to find :)
Hi Isaac, I sent you an email with your tracking number. It should be arriving today. The pre-orders were all shipped this week shortly after I received them on Monday. Any future orders will ship out in 1-2 business days.
@@NathanBuildsRobots Dang I need to order a couple of the fan wire pigtails and some of the solderless splices. Or I could get them from AMAZON or DigiKey maybe
just received my V2 all the lower connectors, those that mount the original creality fans work the whole upper row does not seem to work, plugging fans in the 2 Pfan connectors and one in the HF1 do not spin any idea? i'm using standard 24c 4010 and 5015 fan am i doing something wrong? Am I forgetting to do something?
