I think its people's opinions only. I know when I'd put and small block in a chev I'd have to seat the rings but hitting the gas hard, letting off and hitting it and letting off over and over for about 5 miles or so.
Old ways die hard. You still hear break-in advice from before plated bores and computerized metallurgy, which isn't relevant to new engines. Thanks Jeff
Marty Smith once told me that the strongest engines he had ever had were engines that were installed between motos after a 1st moto seizure. Thanks for your time
I kinda learned this by happenstance and experience. This guy is absolutely 100% correct. You have to run them! Load em up with high load but not pegged wide open through every gear. Load is key!
I was on a large turbo performance engine project for an OEM a few years back, the run-in procedure was to ramp in speed and load until maximum speed (with reduced duration at each point), then boom it's ready to begin dyno testing.
I recently returned to dirt after 35 years & sent my cylinder off for plating. I literally stumbled upon this instruction. Thanks for the info! I've read over many threads & methods, most are apparently wrong.
I always did it the way you do.The only thing I did try to do was use a bottle of Kawasaki racing oil for the 1st time.I used it in KTM's .That oil was a full petroleum oil at the time.I only now have 2 of them bottles old style bottles left but I don't buy new bikes every year when they hit the 10k price range .I've had 25 KTM's so far & will get # 26 whenever I think it's time to up date.
Like the old adage goes, if you want a motor to go hard you need to run it in hard. Paying heed to the difference in flogging a motor and just working it of course.
Dear Jeff, Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience. I just found your channel, and learned about your store. Would you be so kind to confirm that the processes you explained in this video pertain to forged pistons also?
Hello: I have a Wossner slavensracing.com/shop/wossner-top-end-rebuild-kit-for-ktm-hqv-gg-250-300-tbi/ forged piston in my bike. Just ride it and enjoy.
i always tell my customers to ride at 50-75% full pace for a few laps then send it. i rebuild a couple dozen bikes a year, never had any come backs from that.
My exacts thoughts on what I'm gonna go and do tomorrow for my 1st break in.. Get on it and ride the f****r Thank you for making people's live easier. Your rebuild video is class on the KTM 250. Helped me a lot. Perfect 👌
Yes ...... I also agree for the most part with this break in procedure listed here. My 43 year piece to add is this, I feel there is nothing wrong with warming a motor up a little more, maybe for 3-4 minutes before you take off and ride ( easy ) for a several minutes as listed. With todays larger capacities radiators, super coolers, liquid ice type anti-freeze additives that many people add to there machines today make motors warm a little slower then a decade or two ago. His opinion here is a solid one and a great way to follow in breaking in motors. I just am a little more easy on the new parts !
I was told by Tom at Moore and Sons in Santa Cruz that when I warm up my bike, I should not let it idle for very long. I should ride it so that the whole bike is warmed up evenly, not just the engine.
The first time I bought a new chainsaw I did heat cycles. Later on I took the muffler off to see what the piston looked like, and it ended up having scoring on the piston. I haven’t heat cycled anything since, just run it how it’s going to be run normally.
I've never broken in a new bike in my life but I'm a break in type of speed rider with enduro! LOL I DO warm it up in the winters! I've been lucky but I've only seen one new bike seize up after 10hrs a 2020 husky te300i. He did not break it in like suggested!!
Hey Jeff, Curious to know what your thoughts are on 2 stroke engine braking ? Coasting down a hill in the trail without having the clutch disengaged etc .. ?
I ride colorado mountains and I kill my bike and coast on most hills as most bikes I run with are 4strokes and the gas last longer than my 2stroke 19 yz250x!
Does it matter on the break in procedure you advise on whether the piston is cast or a forged piston ??? Or it doesn't matter ??? I prefer forged pistons .
Awesome advice. Once the rings have heat cycled do they not harden?? so the put putter idle around take it easy guys a doing themselves in as you said. Great vid!!
So why do many (if not most) manufacturers have a break in procedure in the manual that typically involves heat cycles, reduced rpm and load, or some variation of? KTM and Yamaha do, for example. I’m only asking because I don’t know.
Just looked at my manual. No mention of useless heat cycles. They have to give some words of caution or goons would ride 6th gear pinned up a sand wash in the first 5 minutes.
How would engine braking not blowing it up? If you reg up to 10k rpms then shut the throttle the engine is turning at 9k rpms and getting almost no lubricant
@@MrJasonfromcanada yes... if it's spinning 10k with throttle closed for example.... it would only get fuel through the pilot basically and have the same amount of lubrication as when at idle which is not as much as when slide is all the way up/throttle wide open
Hi @slaverace1 is it the same procedure for tpi bikes even it they had the top end rebuilt? Thanks in advance. I have a race on Saturday and I don't know if I should first do one deposit being gentle on the bike or not...
You romp.on it right away ..then 15 minutes later you revved it?..didn't you rev it when you romped on it early?..or do u mean you rang it all the way out after only after 15 minutes of going thru the gears
Hey Jeff, besides being a waste of money, what's your opinion on running Amsoil Saber in a new 300 at say, 50 or 60:1? Would it foul up the plug or cause unnecessary carbon deposits?
Great video sir, thank you!! I was wondering how the pros did it and was going to just do that way any how. Good to have some validation. SOOOO.. the next big question!! Install piston and rings dry or wet? If wet how wet? Heard one guy suggest to coat the bore fully and then wipe with paper towels until there's nothing coming off on it.... dunno? Thoughts? Thanks in advance!!
Hey Jeff i fully agree with your video here its how I've run every bike in from new or rebuilt. out of curiosity and a little off topic do you know how much hp the new 2017 250sx is putting out? Cheers
About to install a new cylinder and piston on my yz125. Would you recommend this break in procedure for the new cylinder? Also do you recommend lubing the piston and cylinder before install or installing the piston dry for better seating? Thanks!!
so you said you'd get a good ways away from the truck to let it warm up and then start working it but then you said you would then wait 15 mins and then start reving it. but didn't you advise to let it warm up two to three Minuit's riding then start reving it and doing some pulls and riding harder. or is it not that sensitive as long as you don't let it idle around so long it glazes.
Jeff is it true that the pre-mix should be rich on this break in procedure , it’s something a mechanic friend said is a must , the rest he told me is the exact opposite of what your saying, so I’m thinking so was that bit of info, so I’m just going to run the 50:1 ratio I would normally run to break in this new top end , Thanks Jeff, great video
Hello: There is nothing to break-in when installing a new top-end. The cylinder bore was broken-in a long time ago and rings seat better when ridden hard.
Just curious, what about putt-putting around when you're doing figure eights and such. I'm also not much of a rever, I prefer low engine rpm stuff... Should I then hit an open trail every once in a while and blow the dust off the piston? I remember you had to do that with the cars in the 60's to keep them running fresh, rev the crap out them once in a while.
Thanks for your reply Jeff, very timely info as I'm picking up my new 2017 TE300 Husky this afternoon!! Also curious as to whether you have any updates on the V Force reeds, Cheers.
Jeff Slavens hey Jeff. Thanks as always. Re: conventional vs synthetic. Does it really not matter on break in? Just my old school brain, but I thought synth was too slick to allow the rings to seat. Just wondering and truly asking for insight. 2) new plating on kx100 and Wiseco kit. After 20 hrs, I only get 50 lbs compression test. Cylinder and piston still look fantastic. Could this be due to bad break in? (I heat cycled it very gently about 4 rides) Could I have glazed the cylinder? Would it be easily seen on the cyl walls? Thanks again for a great vid!
i'll definitely try this with my kx250 it's due for it's 3rd piston soon the guy that had it before me had it from new and he didn't seem like the type to fart about with heat cycles or baby it and the bike rips really hard so this makes sense.
Jeff, you MUST use a wireless mic when doing your videos. I know I'm missing some words & phrases with a low volume and a pretty bad echo without the wireless. I like your videos, though.
Carl: We are working on the sound quality issue but it has been difficult to sort out. On our computers and phones it sounds fine. Many others say the sound is fine also but a few continue to contact us about the sound. We have purchased a new microphone system and we have contacted You Tube. Stay tuned, we'll get it sorted out. Ride more, work less. Regards, JS
Nothing wrong with the sound quality, it's just the recorded volume that is very low, I have to max out my laptop to get anything near normal volume. Thank you for the great videos though!
Yep, the sound is fine, it's just low. There is a lot of reverb from the room in this video because you weren't talking close to the mic, but who really cares about that? It's better that you keep making vids instead of getting burned out trying to get everything technically perfect :) If your audio/video editing program has effects called "Normalize", "Compress", "Maximize", and/or "Expand", I'd try messing around with those a little bit.
I have a KTM 300xc 2008. The previous owner had the jets for mix of 40:1. My engine has been freshly rebuilt after it seized, is 40:1 a good mix? Some are telling me 32:1. Please help
I believe was a Jeff KTM team mechanic or something? Anyways, if you talk to the factory recognized mechanics, like John Talley from Partszilla, or Jeff, they give the right advice about break-in. Ride it! With common sense of course. This is correct advice. Don’t waste your time with the over-specific garbage about heat cycles and rpm limiting that litters the internet.
Colby Hutzell im a thumper rider and im gonan tell you right now, worst type of bike ive owned, the more smokers i ride the more i love then !! And i own a 2016 honda 450
I have ridden many bikes and in my opinion as far as jumping and throwing the bike around on the track goes... 2 stroke is the only way too go.. BUT.. 4 stroke guys know when you are far out in the bush and faced with all kinds of rivers, ruts, hills, and heavy terrain your going to want a more reliable bike with loads of power in the lower end.. which is what my rebuilt from the dead 2002 honda crf450r had .. easily the best bike ive had. I got a 2007 klx250 now but havent even tried it yet.. guy before me didnt clean filter and had the carb all "tuned" aka fucked with.. just leave the damn bike stock or the bike is going to leave you stranded.
Hay Jeff, thanks for sharing your expert advice. Question for you and sorry this video has been out awhile now!, would a similar Brake in be used for a KTM 1090/1290? and would you suggest several early oil changes ? Thanks again.
Yes, just ride it but don't get too crazy. I have a 1290, monster motor!!! Be careful with early oil changes. They have good filtration so no need to do it too early. KTM uses a break-in oil designed to let the rings seat. If you change to a slippery full synthetic too early you might create an oil consumption issue.
Jeff Slavens , hay thanks for the reply..So following the factory directions to make the first change at 620mi(1000km) then every 9300mi(15000km) after that!! Seems like a loooong interval? The owners manual specs a 5/40 or 10/50 depending on temps, would you think the LC8 would be happy with dino oil after the first change or a semi-synthetic? Thanks again.
Morning Jeff. Thanks for your time and replies! After searching the owners manual a few times I did find that KTM recommends changing the oil to a full synthetic, a 5W40 or 10W50 Motorex Power Synt 4T. after the brake-in. Thoughts? Am I over thinking it, just go with the manual??? Thanks again...
Do you recommend the first tank on a new motor be at a richer fuel:oil ratio? My manual says to mix at 32:1 for the first four gallons. Should I follow this or mix at the normal ratio?
At least get a cheap Headset with a built-in microphone, it will plug directly into your camera. The mic MUST BE within ~10 inches of your mouth to record reasonably intelligible sound, closer is ALWAYS better.
Jeff Slavens The reason manufacturers dyno every machine is because letting a defective bike go out the door could cost them more than the damage they might be doing by testing them.This does not mean that this is the best way to break in a new piston, just the best for mass production. I would follow piston manufacturers break in instructions. Do you think you know more than the people who make pistons. If the new piston and rings are broken in after the first few minutes, how will avoiding full throttle and operating in the higher gears lugging. The first hour of operation cause problems if its all ready broken in you are contradicting your self.
You are very good at spinning my words and I did not contradict myself. I've worked for several factory teams and built engines that have won over 40 nationals and I'm surprised that I was able to do that without your guidance. Thank you for enlightening me.
You are obviously a by the book guy which is fine. If that makes you happy then do it. ALL manufacturers give very conservative guidelines to protect themselves from goons doing stupid things. I've built 1000s of engines over the last 47 years, with great results, and I have my methods that work for me. You do it however it makes you happy.
Jeff- you have good info but your vids are not always good quality...consider adding some production values to your vids...like a microphone and a steady camera- or at least consider boosting the audio. Keep on geekin'
That video is very old. I now use Air Pods and the sound quality is very good. Sometimes i use a tripod and sometimes I don’t. Most of the videos are made solo and the quality is not going to get much better. Personally I can’t stand the fluffy videos with poor content from goons that should lock up their toolbox and throw away the key.
@@slaverace1 With your guidance and superior knowledge and terrific sense of humor you can help those goons learn how to use their toolboxes more wisely. Specialists and idiots need each other to thrive
