Trey, your presentations are outstanding. You should be teaching at a University or College. You give explanations as to what each part is, what it does, where it goes, and you give caveats as needed. You add NO FLUFF to your presentations, and your video views are excellent. Using your multi-part presentation, my Daughter... a Nursing student, and myself, an old AC repair guy, are rebuilding her 08 Jeep 3.7 Liberty after head failure from over heating. Neither of us have done this before... I do all our vehicle maintenances but never something this complex. With YOUR videos along with those of Issac Moreno and Martinbuilt, we are rebuilding her vehicle. THANK YOU for the time you have taken to create this EXCELLENT step-by-step series... Thomas Jones, New Orleans, LA
Thank you for an informative step by step tutorial on a complex procedure. Thank you for taking the time to film it in a professional manner. I was dreading changing the chains on my 3.7 but now i feel very confident about completing the job. Awesome video!
Just wanted to thank you again Trey for your in depth videos on this 3.7l. I can't tell you how many times i watched them and how much they've helped me on my rebuild! I've never rebuilt an engine before this and your videos plus a lot of in depth reading gave me the knowledge and confidence to do this and made it go do smoothly. Thank you sir!
Filmed very well, explained very well. I am replacing both heads while block is still in vehicle & was afraid of taking primary chain/gear off. Looks like it would be much easier to do so, also be much easier to confirm everything is in time. Thank you again.
Great video, I just rebuilt my sons 3.7 in his Jeep Commander. Motor turned out great, only problem I had was brand new oil pump wasn’t pumping enough oil, or light flickers at idle. Changed out sensor still flickers, looks like i’ll have to change the oil pump again. But thanks for all the great info especially on the timing.
Have to say thank you for doing these vids. I have a locked up 3.7 Liberty and I actually think I am going to go ahead and tackle it. Sorry but I chuckled a few times as the chain fell back in a couple of times and that damn bolt fell in too. Not laughing at you...laughing at the fact that I’m glad I’m not the only one that crap happens to but man your patience level is much better than mine. Nicely done!
Michal Jurzyk You are correct about that. I realized it after the camera was off and corrected it. I forgot to mention it after the fact. The engine started and ran well.
Thank you so much for making this video and explaining the Mark's. I'm doing head gaskets and alldata does not explain anything on how to do the timing. Just gives a diagram.
That engine it's off timing the Dot supposed to be in the center of the two black links and that one he have it on the first black link not in between.
Very observative. The last time I installed the idler, the chain was off by one tooth, but it was off on both gears, so the engine was in time. I did realigned the chain even though it did not affect the timing. The key to success with the idler chain is that your dots on the gears be right. The crank gear mark should be at 6 o'clock and the idler gear be at 12 o'clock. Thanks for noticing.
Why is the timing mark on the big sprocket not centered between the two black chain links? That’s not right the way you put it on you have the dot on the left black chain mark instead of between the two?????
Excellent video Trey, you my friend are one patent man. A real PITA on a stand ,can you imagine what the flat rate dealership slammers have to go through? Mopar engineering went south many years ago I'm afraid. I'm going to hug my pushrod "low tech" LA engines forever.
Installing the right head chain, when you say its a tooth mark to set the chain to is it a scribe on the tooth? Im not finding a mark or dimple on mine just need clarification. Thank you
Very nice videos! Really appreciate it! Quick question on the tensioner on the cam gears. I put it back together and the chain is tight on the top but not on the bottom. Will the chains and tensioner adjust themselves with the oil pressure or have I done something wrong? Thanks again!
aaron campbell The tensioners should have come with pins installed in them to keep them compressed. You should pull those pins. In my experience once those pins are removed, the tensioners tighten up by themselves. When there is oil pressure present, they will tighten up more, but they shouldn’t be slack after they are installed. You might try to pull the tensioners toward the tighter position. They might just need some encouragement.
@@TreyClanton Awesome! Thanks for your help! I noticed the bottom chain has just a little slack, its just not tight like the top. I appreciate your response and enjoyed your set of videos!
Thanks for your informative videos! My question is regarding the Left And Right tensioners, Does the left tensioner have a plate, it looks like it does in your timing video? You do mention the right side plate. My timing chain kit came with 2 tensioner plates? 1 with a small hole in it. Can you tell me the correct way? Thank you Clay! Gary Avery
How do I release the chain tension on the 2,4,6 cilinders. I only have the valve cover off so I don't have all the other stuff off. Can I just take the sprocket off on the cams and release it that way? I don't wanna have to mess with the tensioners. Please help, thank you
What are some preformance kinda cams or an intake from another v6 that has better cam lobes designez & intake that will mount to this 3.7L ?? Been looking for something else for a while. Was thinking of having my original onces modified some to see if it will work. I gone through mine already. Put a ATI damper pully EGR deleted steel head gaskets new guides tensionerz, one original ones broke when being uninstalled.... but man im ready to find some actual preformance parts.
Yoopertube Jeff adamczak I have never work to improve the performance in one of these engines. I’ve always just done stock rebuilds on these engines. Let us know what you come up with.
What if you don’t put the idle sprocket on the dot section what if randomly spin then just line it on the dot,do you know what I mean,like what’s it timing purpose if any real timing purpose like a cam or crack has ???
On this engine all of the sprockets are relevant. The center sprocket times the balance shaft which is very important. I may not completely understand your question though.
Hi Trey, when you say you confirmed TDC, how do you determine that? I know that it means first piston is on the very top, but can the crank be 180 degrees off? Or can it be mistakenly put on the exhaust stroke? Just wondering how you confirmed. Thanks for any input.
Ethan Reddick For this timing system, TDC is self resolving. If you place the marks on all of the gears, in the correct orientation, the engine is in time. This includes the mark on the crank gear, the mark on the balance shaft gear, and the two gears on the cam shafts. There is no need to check piston location.
When it comes to aligning the camshafts, did you use a tool to turn the camshaft? I have installed them in the neutral position and now cannot get my idler gear to stay at 12 o’clock with the cam gear with v6 at 12
_ maclv Hello Sir. I used a pair of large channel locks to turn the cam shaft to the desired position. I put a thick rag against the cam shaft to prevent marring it. Take good care not to damage the cam shaft.
Thanks I actually did exactly that! Now just having an issue installing secondary chains. Think I need to remove the main sprocket from from the idle assembly. You did it in this video and there is no way to get the chains around and in time, without removing the front gear.
+karzygijose I would suggest that you go to EBay and purchase an electronic factory manual. That is what I used. It only cost me $7.44 and download instructions were sent to me in less than an hour. It is the nearest thing to the truth that you will find. I suggest that you also check out the video linked below and it subsequent parts.ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-BOx191b_u0c.html
Trey Clanton Thank you! i have a 03 jeep liberty renegade and the valve seat dropped and caused chaos so got a new piston and had the engine blocked bored a little bit out and got the heads rebuilt by a performance shop now i am just stuck at the timing chain i wanna get it right hate to take it off again
farm machinery fan Sorry so long getting to this. Busy weekend! The procedure specifies the position of the primary and idler sprockets while simultaneously positioning the cam sprockets. If you drop your e-mail address I can e-mail you the procedure I used on this motor.
Great series Trey. I have one question. How the hell do you get the idler gear off the splines? I got the crank gear to slide a bit but they need to come off as one. What about a 3 jaw puller?
That's a good question. I used a pry bar through the chain galleys in the head and tapped the end of the balance shaft with a rubber mallet. A three jaw puller is a better idea!
Trey Clanton Hey man I wanted to give a update Incase anyone ever reads this. I rented a 3 jaw puller from Autozone and configured it to just 2 jaw and that sprocket came off with ease. Piece of cake
Trey, I am thinking about buying a Ram pickup that has a 3.7 with a bad head. Can you get thr head off and out of these trucks w/o taking the entire engine out?
Kro- Man I'm pretty certain you can, but if you have access to an engine lift and engine stand, you might consider pulling it. The challenge is that with overhead cams, you will likely have to pull the timing system. You might be able to figure out a way to wedge the chains and keep them from dropping, but the tensioners will likely give you fits. If the truck is going to be a long term driver, it might be worth just rebuilding it. Either way you go, I wish you the best results!
Trey Clanton. I understand. It sure seems like a pain to get to the back side to loosen from the tranny. Just thinking that it might be simpler to take apart the front of the engine, but leave it in place, snatch the heads off, rebuild those amd put it back together. Is your concern that we might miss something on the bottom end like you found in this video series?
im having an issue with the primary gear i cant get it to come off motor is just about done and it wont budge i have both chains on and cant get primary gear off to put chain off
Hello Chris. I know that feeling. I had a little trouble getting this one to begin to move. Once it did move, it wasn't too bad though. I had to carefully use a pry bar behind the gear to get it to break free. I had to tap on the pry bar, but do it very carefully! I don't remember if there is room for a puller behind the gear, but that might also yield results.
thanks Trey! i tried a pry bar and hammer even heated it and wont budge and i already have the 2 timing chains on and need to get that main chain on and my motor will be done thanks for your great videos been a big help
Hello Trey! Dumb question time! If I put the number one cylinder at top dead center and line up the cam sprockets on the head.. Does it matter whether the heads are on the compession stroke or the exhaust stroke?
Forgive me. I'm a bit confused. If the engine is at TDC and you line up the cam sprockets on the head (V6 pointing up), both valves on #1 cylinder should be closed. (compression stroke).
Do basically it was a dumb question lol. I thought it was. So If the #1 cylinder is at tdc and the "v6" on each cam shaft is at the top then it's timed correctly. Each revolution of the crank only turns the camshaft one half of the way?
Finished rebuilding my 3.7 about three months ago. Im closing in on 3k miles and all is good. Watching you work gave me the confidence I needed in my ability when reassembling. I didnt doubt what I was doing because of being well prepaired. Thats a ton!!
Searched many videos, very good presentation where you could understand each step! Question: Will this video also work for a 2002 Jeep Liberty Sport 3.7 L? Thanks for your help! Gary
joseph anderson The pin keeps the tensioner retracted until the installation is complete. They should be removed once the timing system is fully in place.
joseph anderson The pin keeps the tensioner retracted until the installation is complete. They should be removed once the timing system is fully in place.
Trey Clanton thanks for the quick response, I cracked my 3.7 open the plastic guide is cracked in half I don't see a hydraulic tensioner there. I've watched this video about 100 times now in preperation. Thanks for taking the time to post it
joseph anderson the hydraulic tensioner is bolted to the block underneath the plastic shoes. It should have 2 bolts holding it on. Wish I could provide more detail.
