Engine Won't Start - No Crank Diagnosis (Troubleshooting Starting System Issues) 

Nice job. We have been yanking hair out on a 94 Escort 1.8 starter issue. Since I dropped and cracked the solenoid, we R&R'd it with a new one, now we have intermittent starting,, almost like a bind up of the solenoid. When we rock the car, it will start. No shims in the original, and no bad sounds ever. I'll check for negative Voltage Drop. Thanks for the great vid

Wow... you truly are incredibly gifted. You know every name of every part of the car. Thank you for sharing such wonderful knowledge with simple ppl like myself. By far the most best explained video Ive seen yet.

I am impressed with the organization of your work and the choice of words to teach the lesson. awsome

LOVE this dude! Some videos are so much fluff or SOOOO un-edited! He doesn't even have a helper and it still has great info and camera work. Thank you so much!

Man, I hope your a teacher somewhere, that is the best instructional video I have ever seen. great job.

Best video ever. Thanks for taking the time to explain all the parts to this you did!

just want to say you made a great video I actually learned more from this video on testing/diagnosing a starter/ no crank than I did in my automotive class THANKS!!

Thank you for a thrall over view with detail. Love the pull down voltage from pcm to zero or remains at 5v good differential testing this is what I needed to hear. Now I am not going in blind thank you Bushougoma.

I just wanted to say, thank you You saved me hundreds of dollars on repair.

Can't tell you how much this helped me, thank you!

Awesome video, thank you for taking the time to make it! I learned a bunch and this video helped me diagnose my bad starter.

Really good vid !! No High priced devices just common good info..Great Vid

good videos i watched alot of them but i like to point out my starting issue on my 94 accord ex was a bad main ground wire exact starting issue no click no dimming of anything replaced it so far no problems back to old faithful keep up the vids u are helping lots of diy`ers

Very informative helped me fix my car and now know a lot more about electrical systems. Thankyou for your time

excellent video most informative . its from now on my go to video. thanks .

Yeah sometimes overlooking simple things can lead you down the wrong diagnostic path. It happens to all of us. Glad you figured it out before having to fork over money for a tow.

Thanks for yout great video that actually helped me fix my car.

Thanks Man! fixed my 98 with this vid

Good job, just what I expected from Bushougoma. There are now several good RU-vid videos of this common circuit problem, and I even did one last year. For people willing to put in the time, there's ample room to learn this online. It's a little frustrating when you can't do a drop test because the device won't turn on. I've tried a Loadpro tester in that setting, but conceptually I prefer to use the innate device if possible. Cheers!

Thank you for the advice

Very very good video. Thank you .

very well done, good on you

great video and explaining men good luck

Boas dicas.

good job on checking starter

Excellent video! Everything is clearly and correctly explained. My car has been having trouble with the engine not rotating when attempting to start but it appears to be the automatic transaxle not completely engaging in park. I have to move the gear selector around until it eventually engages. I was wondering if you know what could cause the transaxle to not engage correctly like this. Any info would be great!

Thanks a lot u were very helpful. It was the positive wire connection on the starter that was loose. Good deal

Very helpful. Thanks.

I do understand the need to troubleshoot something quickly so you can get back on the road. But if you know how the circuit and it's variants work you can perform pin point tests on any vehicle not just a specific model to quickly identify the issue. Thanks For Watching.

Love the detail video. Do you have the same video for a chrysler 300c. For no crank no start

Carrie Krull Your vehicle has the Passlock anti theft system more commonly known as VATS. There is basically a resistor in your key if the anti theft module doesn't sense the proper resistance it will disable the starter and fuel system. I'd rule it out as a culprit before going further. If the security light on the dash is on when you attempt to start the vehicle it means that the VATS system is responsible for preventing the vehicle from starting. First check the resistor in the key with an ohm meter if you can't get a reading the key is bad and is the reason for the issue. Check inside the lock cylinder to make sure the contacts that make contact with the key are good. If they aren't the cylinder needs to be replaced. Check the following fuses: Fuse 11 in the instrument panel fuse box Fuse 4 in the underhood fuse box and Fuse 8 in the relay box. I can provide further troubleshooting info if you need it.

I tapped the starter with a hammer and now it's working again. So all other elements are working correctly.Thanks again for your input.

great video.

Thank you made my day i fixed my accord

Absolutely superb!

good job thanks a lot

thank you!

awesome vid thanks

just a fyi on my issue i tried switching the ign relay that was in the fuse box under the hood and it cranked, just a lucky guess but turned out to be right, thanks for you help

Thanks for shooting this video? Could the CKP/TDC sensor combo be the culprits in a no-start condition in which the starter motor is turning but the pinion gear does not seem to be engaging the flywheel (starter motor RPMs sound higher). The reason I'm asking is this just started happening on the first start attempt after I replaced the crank & camshaft oil seals and the timing/balance belt/wp on my '97 Accord non-vtec 2.2L w/ AT (315k miles BTW). The CKP/TDC sensors on my 97 are below the timing belt crank sprocket & had grime on them from the oil leaks, & I cleaned them with a towel wet with brake clean. I know this video is old but I'm hoping to pull a bad starter instead of having to pull the balance belt again.

Thanks allot!!!

Yep, ground voltage is non-existant and no continuity. Thanks a lot for you help... will def be watching the install video tomorrow morning.

Dead starter the brushes were worn out. I didn't think to film it before I replaced it. Excessive voltage drop or an open power or ground can cause the starter to appear dead so it's important to check voltage drop after the verifying power on the trigger wire when in start.

Very helpful video, thank you!

I'm at the final stage of my hot rod truck, '97 Ranger V8 swap. but when I hit the key all I hear are the 2 solenoids and no crank. it's maddening to the point where I want to pull out what is left of my hair LOL. I'm really hoping it's the High Ground resistance that you mentioned because all mechanicals are brand new even the battery.

I like your video. The problem on mine when I check the voltage on the trigger starter wire was there was a voltage fluctuations. What causing the voltage to fluctuates? Thanks for your help.

Can you do a video for how to replace the fuel pump for Honda Accord 94-97?

Hi. Great video. You really know your stuff! I have an LDV convoy and I'm having starter issues. When I turn the key to acc the starter relay is constantly clicking with the immobiliser light. I have no power and the headlights and indicators aren't working. My battery is fine (12.6 V) as is the earthing strap. Any ideas what it could be? Any help would be greatly appreciated as I'm a bit of rookie! Thanks

Thank

Do you have the same type of video for the same problem for a 2004 Ford Taurus?

BTW, the no crank is an intermittent problem. Another info, each time I turned the key to start, the panel lights came up and central locking system came alive, but the starter just didn't crank. Thank you very much!

n the old starter just went bad and at the store they said it was no good. I really dont know what's going on am I putting the wire wrong? Iam going to try that voltage test you said to do and will get back to you. thanks you been a big help so far :)

Hey Busho, We Honda crazies out there love your videos, but we do need a tutorial on how to replace Brake Master Cylinder, all Brake Rotors, all Brake Pads, all Brake Calipers. Because them crooks out there are robbing people blind, my girl already had all the needed parts and the damn mechanic had the nerve to charge her $750.57 for parts and labor to replace 2 Front Brake Rotors, 2 Rear Brake Rotors, 4 Brake Calipers, all Brake Pads, Bleed the lines and a Brake Master Cylinder.

I got a 1997 Accord coupe with a no crank issue. My Ignition switch is good as well my my starter relay. I still have no power to my solenoid wire. My power windows also stopped working at the same time I can't think of anything else??? Also my Ignition fuse is good and I'm getting power and out of the switch at the right times.

I cross the big wire and the little wire in the started and the starter spins. I also found the relay and cross 30 with with 87 and the starter cranks

i have a 1995 Lexus ls400 sometimes it does not crank over and the next day it works can anyone help

Nice video! When do drop test, what is the safe and easy way to disable ignition (23:24 in the video)? Unplug fuse for fuel pump? Unplug distributor wires? Thanks!

Hey bushougoma I like your video it helped me a lot but my question is I have a 93 ford explorer it still won't crank I changed the battery completely new changed the starter and starting cylinoid both 3 times I also changed some relays on the fuse box under the hood....and also the fuses by the driver side inside the car are fine ignition is fine wires are alive the spark plugs are good all spark plug wires are in contact as we'll any ideas what it can be right of the top of your head??

I checked with my multimeter, I put the ground on the battery and tested the fender solenoid. It has 12.4 on the constant side (good) but I got .100+ on the side that is suppose to not have any current until triggered by the ignition wire. Replaced it with HD version and still got the .100 reading. Would a high resistance ground be the cause? That would also be the cause of my no crank but click problem? Any help would be great, ty. This is the final step of a 3 year project build and I'm must humbly admit electrical is my weak point.

O one thing that eric the car guys video left out was ignition key / switch could be bad for a no start no crank Though one could test the starter directly to rule out the starter and and manually spining the crankshaft to completely rule out the no start no crank problem into a no start or start/stall problem

First make sure the battery is fully charged. Perform a voltage drop test on the starter if the voltage drop isn't excessive the starter is on it's way out. A sign of a failing starter can be a slower than normal crank speed or an erratic crank speed. I've had the starter on my vehicle do that before it finally died the same day. When I autopsied the starter worn brushes not making contact on the commutator were the culprit.

what ground to starter open?started is bround itself to a block didnt understand nothing,what was the fix? if voltages is good

hi, why do we need pull and hold in, if hold in can do pull in job, is that because hold in is not strong enough to engage the initial pinion gear travel.

Thanks fr answering but please more details.

I have a 2002 ford f150 thought the fuel pump went out so put a new one in and still won't start cranks but doesn't start has oil has coolent battery has been fully charged hoping it hasn't jumped time or hoping its just a sensor

My problem is on the trigger wire I believe. The battery is good. I've tried 3 starters, (original, rebuilt from parts store, and used one from ebay) Sometimes (rarely) it will have 12 v and will crank. Most of the time after the first crank it has 5v and does nothing. Could you be able to help explain this one? I have never seen anything like this.

I been having problem with my 2001 honda accord wont start wont crank...Did u find the issues?

I left my key in the on position for approx 5 min gas came from the engine. Never started it. When I tried it make a single clunk sound

i really liked a video

Thank's for the reply- also, I have one more question; is the Starter and solenoid not damaged by the "ON" position of the key in the ignition switch for 15 minutes? ... I had no issues with starting the car... up to this point. My assumption is no damage, due to to no current sent to either, unless in the start position.

I left my key in the ignition switch for 15 minutes, in the "ON" position. My car would not start. The Battery negative Cable was hot, and the positive cable was warm. The battery has a normal charge, the headlights are bright, and do not dim when key is in START position. I can here the starter relay, when turning the key. The starter wont crank. no starter solenoid sound. its a 5 speed 1997 Eclipse.

My accord will make a clicking sound when I turn on the ignition key, but it usually takes me at least 3 tries to turn on the ignition key before it starts. What problem would that indicate? This has been going on for 4 months.

hi could you not use the min/max setting on meter for voltage drop test if you don't have a remote starter ? as this would record the test when ignition was turned on.

On a 1998 Ford Escort with a switch on there's a humming under the hood and the car won't start but when you plug a diagnostic tool into the port it will run but when you cut it out full it out it won't run diagnose problem

What does it mean and I'm sure you covered it but I missed it... But my car doesn't want to crank when I first turn the key in the ignition but starts right up the second try and only in the morning and it's not to cold here in California so Idk. Could it be the starter cable is loose or corroded haven't checked yet... Thanks

I have the same vehicle can you help me resolve the problem. I turn the key and the the motor turns doesn't start just turns and makes a buzzzzzzzzzzz sound like a mini turbine

You're going to have to get a wiring diagram and start checking grounds. If 12 volts is entering the box but not getting to certain fuses chances are the accessories (like turn signals) are switched by the ignition switch before the fuse and there may be an issue with the switch. Give me the year make and model and I'll pull up a wiring diagram to give you more specific areas to check.

Shouldn't the gear be in neutral before you try to turn the crankshaft manuely?

I have a 99 Lincoln navigator. no start when we crank it. the dealer said its not the anti theft. if we put the key in the ignition and wait 15 minutes it starts again.

I have a 2010 F15 5.4 won't start won't crank. cluster inop, door don't chime with key in ignition . Pats light don't blink. only hear relay click. all other lights doors, windows and auxiliary power works. what could be the problem? John H

This is a general video made to cover multiple vehicles and circuit designs. It would be impossible to give pin point advice on what to check with so many circuit variations. A working knowledge of the circuit you're working on is vital to a proper diagnosis. Lets say a certain circuit isn't functioning properly. How do you know IF it's functioning properly? How do you test the circuit to find the cause of the malfunction? Without knowledge of how the circuits supposed to operate you can't.

i have a mazda626 2001 is it possible to have multiple things wrong with my car at once I have been doing research and it seems it could be a few things but your video made me think it mite be my starter AND my battery is that possible?

Hello bushougoma, I have a no crank in park; crank in neutral; no start. Starter relay is load side good control side w/key in on position has a low pottage of 3.44v. Key in start position it goes to 12.39 volts. Do I have a block ground issue? where did this 3.44 low voltage referrence come from ? The throttle reads 1.8 volts on all 3 wires no resistance to open/closed throttle. It seems dead to me or broken or is the computer in some anti theft mode?

Got a question for you I have 2002 Ford with a 5.4 triton motor. New Battery, no start no crank, do you know where the PCM is on this truck. I cleaned both battery terminal. Turn the key, got light on the dash and the speedometer when from 0 to 120 and then back to 0. Odd. Still no start no crank. Got any ideas what going on??

just asking, but would be easier to remove driver tire and remove the nuetral saftey switch? im still green but getting there

hi bushougoma I have Honda crv 1997 I had one incident the shifter stuck on p position and I released it by the slot supplied, yesterday I have a problem the car won't start not even cranking only a sound under the dashboard ( passenger seat) after that I only moved the shifter few times and the car started normally, I suspect the starter is faulty tell me what you think? by the way good video specially the theory side

Can anyone help? I have a no crank no start condition on my project car and am really struggling with this one. It's got a new battery measuring at least 12.6v across the terminals. I'm getting the constant 12v supply to the starter and i'm picking up the 12v on the trigger wire as the key is turned to the crank position. I've been able to bench test the starter and it spins freely, but it won't spin when in position in the car. I've also checked mechanical integrity of the engine, and i can turn the crank pulley freely. No obvious sign of an anti-theft device affecting this, or a neutral safety switch, as i assume this would not give me the 12v trigger wire signal. Any ideas?

yes, I tried jump it with the remote switch you used on 24:07 and the starter started to work cranking the car. But without it and turning the key to start it just spins but does not engage the flywheel. It sounds like an RC toy car no crank sound..

Recently my brother's '97 1.8L Suzuki Sidekick stopped functioning. Wouldn't turn over in the parking lot, but it certainly was cranking. After a couple of days of sitting in the garage, however, it isn't even attempting to crank anymore. Turning the key to ACC will play a repeating tone from the dash, as normal. But now, turning to ON, the dash lights start out extremely dim, and many instruments appear to lose power. If it sits there for a minute, everything slowly brightens up and eventually the radio will be able to power up, but attempting to start the car quickly produces complete power drain. No lights, nothing. After the attempt to start, returning the key to ON, the car tries to recuperate. A couple of clicks will be heard, not during the process, but after the attempt is made. The tone mentioned earlier sounds like it is receiving insufficient power, almost as if it was trying to utter its last words on the deathbed (with fluctuating frequency that differs from the solid tone), and all the lights return to the previous dimmed state. Eventually it will go back to square one, all of the dash components and various lights in the car appearing to work normally. And this can be repeated over... and over... and over.... This didn't seem to be a problem a few days ago, minus the inability to turn over. A skid plate was about to fall off, but my brother fastened it with some wire, but I doubt that is the problem. I am positive the batteries are charged. A voltmeter will show around 12V on them (testing this with two separate batteries, same results). Now we are out of options. We have no extra money to freely spend on replacement parts. I checked the fuse box for blown fuses, but didn't see anything initially. I will check again. Do you have any idea what is going on?

Hi I know this is been a while since the video was posted I have a 1999 Honda Civic ex coupe the same thing is happening to my car now it turns on and everything perfect for a month and then is started doing it again now when it happens I move the cables around and it starts up I cleaned the positive terminal cables to the starter so it's good but the solenoid one I think that's something to do with that I don't think it something with the starter because it works fine what could it be the ignition switch is good as well i don't know if it's the relay or the cables please help.

do you know where the neutral safety switch is located on a 1995 honda accord ex 2.7 v6?

Do you have 12 volts on the tiny trigger wire going to the solenoid when in start? If you do. Check the voltage drop on the starter power and ground as outlined in the video. A high resistance or open connection (at the starter power wire or block ground) is most likely the culprit.

I have a 1999 Honda accord LX and I recently hooked up car audio subs and an amp. When I first hooked up my audio, I was running the power wire that ran to the amplifier without a fuse. when I did so, and the audio was running the car seemed to be struggling staying on. I quickly disconnected them and turned the car off. When I went back to the car it would not crank at all. It only makes a click noise. it only makes one click and when I hold the key in the starting position you can hear

My car will turn on sometimea but not others. When I turn it into the on position, the radio and lights and air come on but when I try to turn the engine over all I hear is a single click.

Can i Skip the selenoid i have a rv a 1973 chevy sports coach 454 Motor Oldschool

I would imagine that if one also manual rotated the engine the wrong way as long as he didn't screw up the crankshaft pulley wheel or unloosen it then one could start the car in any position that the rotation check left it in. Since one can manual shut off a good car at random and when the pistons come to stopping they are randomly positioned so when the starter cranks them they are in random position... so you shouldn't be to nervous about wrecking valves or other things provided your just turning the engine from the crankshaft pulley wheel... after the starter cranks them the camshaft sensors and the other sensors should tell the computer when to optimally fire the ignition and fuel injectors. i.e find there positions so everything will be cool

A 190 Mercedes is involved- having difficulty under certain conditions for the starter to turn the engine over when I try to start the car. If I drive only a short distance, e.g 1 km and then turn the car off it will restart. If I have driven a longer distance sau 20km and then turn the car off I have difficulty starting it immediately- I heara slight click soud but the starter does not appear to kick in- when I wait for say an hour then the starter kicks in and turns the engine over- From this experience it seems that my problem is heat related- Could this be my solenoid or a coil?

my friend has a 2000 Honda accord -v6 coupe -DX automatic, she said it cut off on her a couple days ago and now it will turn over like it wants to start but won't, Can u help me please

Thanks for the reply. I meant to say, last night, all the electronics (radio, dash, and headlights, etc.) go completely out when trying to crank the car. Today, I replaced the battery (was charged 100%, but had a dead cell); go to crank the car, and still nothing... the car doesnt even try to turn over. The headlights, etc., do not go completely out now, but they do dim considerably when turning the key over, and there is a single click sound coming from beneath the dash. Any other ideas?

Hi i got 2001 honda acoord ex , my tranmission not reverse , before i drive nomaL PUT GEAR NOMAL , but after i change the tranmission , key on but wont start , and the light ( P , R , N , D not on in the odometer , i check power at starter solenoi , no power come when i start , cant change the gear , i check neutral switch working , do u know what wrong ? please help me , thanks