Decided because of the rainy day in sunny Manchester to strip my Miele W304 washing machine and replace my dampers, wow what a difference, thank you so much for your video. I put down a piece of cardboard and popped the screws in, in the order I took them out. Lots of " Brownie " points for me. 👍👍. I didn't bother altering the spring because the dampers were really badly worn.
Brilliant video Simon. Everything explained in such a clear way. You saved us a bundle of money by us being able to replace the dampers on our 20 year old Milele W487 and adjusting the springs. Keep up the good work 🙂. - Martin (London).
Thanks Simon, did the shocks and springs on my W2515 today, your video was a great help. Just one thing I found, when you remove the clear facia it is easy to mark the plastic. I found that if you use the Yellow plastic thingy on the back of the dispenser (you use it for opening the filter door) to remove the facia it doesn't damage the plastic.
Thanks so very much Simon. This is incredibly helpful. Our 11 year old Miele has developed a scraping sound coming from the front boot area. The Miele repair person came yesterday and said, first, that this was not repairable because the brackets that hold everything in “alignment” are not replaceable. When pressed, he said they would fix it for $1700 by replacing the motor and drum units. Needless to say I am frustrated and disappointed. I will venture to fix it myself. I hate the throw-away mentality and had hoped that this company, which sells good quality products at a higher price, was also. Perhaps not? Your video will help me immeasurably. Thank you!
@@jesshothersall my Miele w3725 is 14 years old this year. It is rumbling and shaking at its highest rpm1300. I mean bouncing like wtf. I am thinking springs are stretched and or rods need replacing . I found 20 dollar rods bran new let’s see hey✌🏻
@@Garrysullivanjones Since mine had new shock absorbers (not springs) it seems to be good for several more years, no more vibrating, and no more things falling off the top when it's on either!
You are a legend Simon. Watched your video. Ordered my dampers online. Then replaced them as per your instructions. Even adjusted the springs as per your extra advice. If you were in Australia, I would drop a bottle of nice wine in to you. Thanks
It's funny because I just repaired my toothbrush, which is the same you have. Then I clicked on your name to see what else you have published, and I found this video. I had the same washing machine, not sure if the exact model, but it's a Miele, and it looks like yours. I replaced the shock absorbers after 16 years, and at the same time the ball bearings, which was tricky because I had to dismount the entire machine. It is still going strong after 20 years of service. My sister is now using it.
Hi Simon, thankyou for this brilliant instructional video. Although our model is from 2006 it came apart pretty much the same. It was a bit more involved doing the job as there was a dryer on top joined with a stacking kit and they are built into the laundry cupboards but none the less the dampers were the issue so i replaced them and adjusted the springs where necessary and with an overall cost of $100AUD including delivery for the original parts you helped save us time and money. much appreciated. Regards Bill Perth Western Australia
Simon - THANK YOU SO MUCH! this was an INCREDIBLE video. My father and I replaced the shocks and springs in my miele washing machine. It is now working brilliantly. this was after one repairman told me to replace the entire washing maching, and a second repair man couldnt grasp the fault (even though the machine would slam into the wall if it was trying to spin a heavy load). Your video was super clear and gave us just the right amount of detail to get the job done. Machine now on its second load and I am so happy. And it was great to do a job like this with my dad, as Ive lost alot of confidence in these sorts of jobs as Ive not done so much DIY lately. So an enormous thank you to my father - Ed - also. :)
Great feedback, im so pleased you were successful in repairing the machine. In respect to your comment on DIY skills, they are useful skills to have but they come though a via an initial sense of curiosity followed with a bit of determination!
@@PowerOn- So spot on, Simon, about the big C & D of DIY. To wallow in the sweet satisfaction of watching the thing run again as new, after Dad (anxiously) fixed it and then telling Mum: oh it was QED, darlin'.
20 years, now that is a good washing machine :-D i can see why it's worth the odd part being replaced over the years. I had a 18 year old service 1000 machine, it used a rotating cam as the controller. Old tech was basic but more reliable than modern junk.
I have a washing machine for 22 years, and it still works. The heater has been changed 3 times already, and the shock absorbers 2 months ago. That is Gorenje, a Slovenian product, they made high-end home appliances, known for their excellent quality and durability similar to Miele, but unfortunately they failed to expand the market after geopolitical changes and mass globalization. Now they have been sold to the Chinese, Hisense or something, and their new products are junk.
Thank you for a very helpful video. Was able to do exactly the same repair to my W2104, including the adjustment to the suspending springs. Worked just fine. Best of all, I had only 2 screws left over at the end 🤪
This was a great video, and did a good job at getting me started. But while my Miele W 1986 looked a lot like this, it was substantially different in many ways. First, there were no side or back panels. The back and sides are a unified piece of metal with a front piece welded on. Second, the drum boot stayed with the drum assembly (which was a good thing). Third, some of the fastening screws were in different locations, and some were Phillips head. But all in all, you gave me enough of an understanding to get this done. The top springs were really hard to remove, but very easy to replace. I had to dump the Washer on some pillows on its side, remove a bottom panel, and access the dampers from there. Not a lot of room to work that way, but very doable. Put it all back, but got a "Inlet Water" error. Turns out the sensor uses a vacuum hose that connects the main control panel which does the actual sensing of water pressure when filling the tube. It comes off pretty easily when you swing the front panel open. Oh yeah, the front panel is hinged on the right so its swings open when the screws on the left side are removed. By the way, if that water level vacuum hose did come off and you started your washer, be aware that the washer will think the drum is empty. So if you push the Open Door button it will open and fill the room with water. Yes, that's right. It happened to me... Anyway, thanks a million for posting this. It really help me a lot!
Many thanks for the super helpful video. After watching, I purchased new springs along with the new shocks. Decided not to remove the front as it looks too fraught. I undid the side panel screws and just forced them open enough to get access😅
Thanks for the feedback Cameron, glad to be of help. This video is quite a few years old now and unfortunately my Miele had to be replaced recently. The drum 'spider' collapsed/broke and the repair parts are just not available any more.
@@PowerOn- Sorry to hear that. Our Miele is 25 years old and been in action pretty much every day. It cost us £900 back then! Proving the adage, you get what you pay for. It looks clean as a whistle inside and the bearings and belt look fine. For £50 on parts I may be able to eek out a few more years, fingers crossed .😅 Thanks again.
Today I changed the springs and dampers on my 15 year old W304 PLUS thanks to your excellent instructions. I found the old springs were all 4mm longer than the new ones so I put the new springs in the original slot positions. It works as good as new! Your video was a godsend! Thanks again. J
Thank you very much for this video. I used the first half of it (to the point just before you removed the side panels) to get into my Miele W3922 washing machine. All identical to take apart the top and front, except that the kick plate on mine snaps off rather than unscrewing. I was then able with some improvisation of my own to remove and replace the rubber door seal. I can honestly say I have never attempted anything like this before and the door seal had been purchased 18 months ago and sat in a cupboard whilst I procrastinated! Your video gave me the knowledge, courage and motivation to fit it. My machine is currently going through a couple of test rinses and so far so good - no leaks! :-) A non-DIYER woman :-)
Great to read your comments and feedback. When putting these videos together my main hope is to help and encourage people to 'have a go' themselves while possibly saving a bit of money at the same time. Well done you😁!
Many thanks for this - the 'part 2' spring adjustment tip is a lifesaver; I'd never noticed the adjustment facility, but I guess Miele have just about thought of everything. Oh, and I've had the lid off several times but never noticed that it hinges at the back....
I have a Miele w828 model and the front panel can simply swing open without having to take out out the same amount of screws you had to. Thanks again for sharing this video.
Thanks a lot Simon for this great video. Helped me to find all the screws on my Miele. Had the same damper problem. Now waiting for new parts to arrive and checking the springs. Greetings from Germany.
Thank you so much for this video, our Miele was making an awful noise and smelling a bit burny....... Followed your instructions and out shock absorbers were wrecked, paid £15 for a new set, put it all back together and our 18 yr old machine is back up and running.... Saved us anywhere between £400 getting it fixed .. Or £800 for a new machine..... Cheers....!
Thanks for the instructions whch were really clear and easy to follow. I have a Miele W304 but it was pretty much the same. I took a short cut and changed the springs at the same time as the dampers :-) thanks fro the Heads-Up on that. Just one thing, it would have been good to show how to refit the boot to the door. getting the sprung ring back in place was a bit like changing a bicycle tyre but I got it in the end. :-)
Thanx to your video I repaired our 12 year old Miele V5845 using the supra shocks. Didn't have to exchange the springs although I bought them precautionary.
Just found your video, my Miele WDB020 developed clunking sounds just after the 5 year warranty (what a coincidence) ... I couldn't locate the noise back then, but I seem to have tracked it down to the top rear spring. Will have a look at the dampers and springs at ease with daylight tomorrow, thanks for the info. They sure don't make them like they used to
Good video. Our Miele W865 is 20yrs old and goes almost every day. Dampers have gone and Im replacing them this week. I found Ebay for 30GBP per pair. Now looking for new springs.
I have a nice (old) Miele W8225. I don't want to buy a new one, this one seems very good, in spite of the "walking through the room" ..... This video helped me to replace the dampers, even if this type not the same. And the fact I have two left hands, as they say here in The Netherlands. Thanks Simon!
@@PowerOn- Dampers arrived today, the old ones were both inoperative and (probably because of the banging) were broken at the drum fixation. First test wash successfully finished. Side and back panel of my Novotronic 90x is in one piece, and the front turns out on hinges, so I had to access the dampers from the front, rather awkward. However I realized then that the dampers are (or at least appear to be) accessible from underside the machine, mitigating the need to do any disassembly at all. Next damper change 15 years from now I may get by just laying the machine on one side.
@@torbjrnsund677 Will you not need to be Superman to get it back upright again, after lying it down? It nearly killed us getting ours into where it lives, and we just had it tilted...
Watched it a few times then tackled mine, bought one that had issues that you describe and yep the dampers are totally shot. Your vid made it pretty easy to pull apart and mine wasnt the exact same model as yours so I'm glad to see they havent changed much with their construction.
Thanks for the comment Jiota. As the damper/shock absorbers are a common part I'm guessing the repair guide is very similar for different Miele machines.
Simon, Thanks for the very informative video. Have a similar “bumpy” issue with my Miele W5825. I’ve ordered shock absorbers and coil springs. Should be able to fix this pretty quickly after watching yr video.
Thank you for the video this is on our machine the same problem After 20 Years good working. After Repair its werking good. Hopelijk for a nex 20 Years 😂👍🤟 greatings from Holland
Thank you, I've been told by the repair chap that the pcb is at fault, and just discovered refurbs (£42) are often sold with new dampers too, as squishy dampers can apparently cause the pcb board to fail. (New board fitted is £500 for a 15 year old machine, not really sensible). Other half pointed out we need to know how much trouble to renew dampers, as well as fitting the board we already have a £20 quote for. Hence watching your video. Seems labour shouldn't be much of an issue, as it looks pretty straightforward, and we could possibly even do it ourselves? Downside, my machine is in a previous downstairs loo, so only has a few inches clearance either side, which means dragging it out into the next room. We're in our 70's and himself has a bad back, so probably a job for a young strong chap, wonder if my son would like to visit soon? Many thanks for the demo, and the addition of the stretched springs too.
Found a second hand pcb board, and bought some new dampers, for less that £20, man fixed it for £45, and machine is now working beautifully again, what a relief!
Thanks for this..our old Miele w404 plus has started to misbehave so I dove in ..interestingly my springs are set exactly the same..back at the top..front in different places...my dampers are definitely on the way out so that helps. Initially I was only looking to change the belt when I found your video and so by checking the same issues as me you've saved me a ton of time. One good thing on mine is you don't have to remove the control panel to remove front and sides... So maybe they made an alteration to the model...must have had mine over 20 years now... Hopefully I'll get another 10. Before the bearing collapsed....😁 Did moving the spring position create any issues later on?
Nice one mate, really helpful knowing how it comes apart and replaced dampers the same as you did. Also took your advice on adjusting the springs (that was a game changer). So all in all an extremely helpful video, thanks a lot for posting it! You haven't replaced the bearings on one of these, have you?😉
Thank You Simon, im not so good with my handy work, but i followed your video instructions step by step, and got the machine fixed, video was so clear and easy to follow,
Simon! You life saver. I've traveled through tens of rubbish clips. None are as good as yours. Good shots, brief but clear narration and really helpful. O my thing I would add is to use the orange filter flap tab found in the powder tray for removing the acrylic front panel. Small screw drivers can crack the edges. Damn Miele fur making their products so tricky to access. Btw got any tips fixing the float switch? Thanks
Thanks for the reply and positive feedback it's much appreciated. Thanks also for the additional tips, hers hoping they help another person tackle their repair. Sorry though I haven't any tips for the float switch....mine is still working...for now! 😉
@@PowerOn- I managed to take out the float and give it a clean. It got gunked up after a flood from blocked drain. I'll let you know if I got it fixed. Keep fixing!
NOTE: It is possible to just remove the bolts under the top and on the back. This wat you can get a 15 cm opening. This will give you enough space to reach in for the bolts and replace the shock absorbers. This way the replacements is done in 30 min flat ;0)
Ok,. I didn't know that. It's such a long time since I did this my memory is not 100% but I thought there were a number of other connections such as electrical and plumbing connections which might impede removal of the back panel. You're suggesting a 15cm gap is possible....I'll try it when they need replacing again 😜 (in about 20 years time)
Thanks to this video and this comment, I (a layman) managed to get in quickly to have a look. Unfortunately, it's a bearing issue in my case, so I'll probably need to buy a replacement machine.
Hi, i took your advice and it saved me a lot of time and hassle! Note that after removing the top and back screws, you have to push the side panel down and then out, to remove it from the bottom frame. There is a lip that holds it to the frame. This is very easy to do and also to put back in place. Anyway, there is just enough space with a little help from my wife to keep the side open :). So thanks for the video and for this comment!!!
Good video! We just came to the same conclusion for ours, REPLACE the SPRING & DAMPER/SHOCK ABSORBERS at the same time. Unfortunately our drum and spring attachments are PLASTIC (BLOMBERG). They don't make them like they used to (on purpose) so we spend more money on them now. Rediculous world, must change.
Simon great video thank you, didnt actually answer my particular issue though you started off the video talking about your Miele jumping around. Last night I thought I was being broken in to, thankfully not, it was my Miele W310 about to go to spin cycle. Turned off the machine (which I probably shouldn't do) to find my door seal seems to have come away or become creased in some way and my machine ended up 10 inches out of the cupboard its currently in, thats with the tumble dryer on top. If you have any ideas please let me know in a reply before I go ahead with buying a new machine as apart from this issue its fine. And its 15 years young! thanks
Well I'd take an educated guess that it is either an unbalanced load or the dampers have failed. Sometimes if you have a few heavy towels in the load it can cause an imbalance. As for the rubber seal, or boot as it is sometimes called, this is an easy repair if you are up for it ?!😄
Great video! I feel confident enough to tackle this job myself! One question: Is it any special sort of grease that should be used for the springs? If so what specific grease do I need to look for? Thanks!
Thanks for your comments P Jay, i hope your repair works out. As for the type of grease, i don't think it matters too much. Just one which is solid enough not to drip down in use. A thin smear should be enough.
FWIW I checked the damper travel and it seems to be about 70mm so I checked that they were in the mid travel (i.e. 35mm) when re-installed - so I didn't adjust the springs. I'll update this post If I need to get back in there to readjust them :)
Thanks for the great video. My machine is the W2240, however, it looks identical inside and I have exactly the same problem. And another thanks:- I now know how to access everything . . . . :o) Shockers on order.
Hey Simon , I have 14 year old Miele 3725 model. Out of the blue (well after 14 year of blue rinse) , it rumble and shake all over even to the point of sparks were seen at one point during its highest rpm of 1300. Anyway I pulled as much apart as I could without ruining factory preset . My question , How do I know if suspension rods and or springs are stretched or rods are needing replacement ? Cheers
Thank you for the great video. I am just about to do the same job and wondered if you had any tips for actually adjusting the springs. I have had a quick look and obviously they are under tension so was not sure how easy to move them will be. Did you just use brute force or did you have a tool to compress the springs etc ? many thanks and so refreshing to see a great shot and explained video like this.
Hi Matt thanks for the comment. To install/adjust the springs I lifted the drum up with a lever (a length of 2x4 or similar). If you 'over' lift the drum you'll be able to hook the spring on with little or no tension. Tricky on your own but doable.
Thanks so much for posting this video. I would strongly suggest replacing the 4 springs at the same time, as I noticed that the drum could be bounced around like a basketball with the old springs in place, but super firm with the new springs fitted (yes without the shock dampers). Also there are several different types of retaining screws, so maybe keep them separated in a used egg carton to make reassembly easier. The spring around the door seal is a pig to replace. If anyone has any tips for getting that back on, I’d be grateful to hear it💪
Hey I used a screwdriver on that flat head to stretch it around the door seal when I replaced it. Took a couple of times but it worked when you get the hang of it. I own a Miele W5748 water control system. It’s similar to this one.
Many thanks Simon. My Miele is over 22 years old and has the same jumping around issue. I'm pretty sure new dampers and springs will solve the problem and your video gives me the confidence to have a go myself. Do I have to buy Miele OEM parts or will generic parts do ?
You have chosen a rather complicated way to change the shock absorbers. To remove the door panel you don't touch the fascia panel. Remove the lower kick panel beneath the front door panel. Unscrew one T20 screw on the left and one on the right bottom corner. Remove screws from the door lock, remove spring ring around the door seal ( pull the spring out at bottom of seal ). Last remove larger bolt directly underneath the door seal. ( 2 different bolts were used over time ). Take the door seal off the front panel and roll it in and now you can remove the panel by pulling it away from the bottom first. Now you can change the shock absorbers from the front. The left side is abstracted by the filter housing but that's only 1 screw to remove it. The small tube on the left side of the filter housing going to up the top must be clear. If blocked it will not spin properly due to an airlock. The fact that this machine is staffed is a problem with the spider support at the back, holding the drum. It's corroded and broken due to too much detergent and low temp. washing. You can still see it at the beginning of the final spin that soap suds are still hanging around the drum. A very common problem especially in soft water areas.
Hi Siegfried, so you can change both shocks without taking off the sides? I have taken off the front below the fascia to change the drain pump motor, which is easy to do, but now while I wait for a new motor I am thinking I could do the dampers too as they are not so good.
@@dalstonjazz Hi Dalstonjazz, yes, just remove the large front panel ( don't touch the fascia or the top ). With the front gone it's all open to change the friction dampers, ( 13mm socket and extension ). For the left side remove the filter housing ( 1 screw ) , push it aside and replace the shocker.
Not super easy. Probably better if you have an extra pair of hands available. I think I used a piece of wood as a crowbar under the tub to lift it higher than normal if that makes sense 🤔
Changed the dampers, adjusted the springs but now think as the drum has changed hight the fan belt is squeaking a tiny bit, But at least no more banging. The old dampers had worn differently as one was completely gone.
I wish to thank you so much for your video! I have a bumping 14 years old Miele W2365 washing machine and following your very accurate instructions I have understood the source of the problem. I have been able to dismount the front and right panels ( just some slight differences with respect to your model) and verify that the dampers were completely gone. I have just ordered the new parts and I will replace them asap. I just have to figure out if I need to move the springs, as you did, in order to lift the drum up. Please do you have any particular suggestion about how to dismount and remount the springs (e.g. where to pull, if the drum need to be lifted with some wooden piece underneath)? Thank you so much!
gcotogno I just used an adjustable strap fitted to both of the drum bolts and over the top of the machine, lifting the drum and tightening the strap. You can slacken the springs easily now, then lift them off and replacing them, one at a time. Cheers!
Thanks a lot for the video. My W1918 had the same issue but is back in service after I replaced shocks and springs. Meile factory tech failed to identify the problem :(
Thank you for posting this video. I have a WT945 Washer dryer that is 21! It works fine but when going through the rinse cycles, when the weight of the water and clothing is heaviest, it rocks; not always but most of the time. When it gets to Final Spin it is fine and spins at 1500RPM (highest speed) without any issues. I took the top off and there is lots of play in the drum. If I start by replacing the springs, are they easy to get out? Am I wrong to assume that if genuine Miele springs are used, putting them on the exact holes that the old ones sit in should do the trick? For what new springs cost (around £60 for 4) I think it is worth trying this route first. Any help, advice appreciated. P.S. The machine has been used pretty much daily. At the weekend we did 5 washes so we have had our money’s worth. It has never been repaired!
The problem you describe is indicative of a damper problem rather than a spring issue. However, the springs do get some "permanent set" in them due to the constant weight of the drum. You may be able to see this as a sag or lowering of the height of the drum in relation to the door apature. Thanks for your comment and feedback.
Simon Jowett Thank you for your reply. It is appreciated. I will have a good look at it later when in front of it. From memory it doesn’t look lower so your answer while reassuring is not the one I hoped for; I was geared up for the spring change but the dampers might prove beyond my skills :( Miele charge £130 for the first hour’s labour plus parts. I may end up getting them out. It breaks my heart to buy a new machine if this is an easy albeit costly fix! Thanks and all the best.
Hello Simon, My W1113 was hammering loudly during the spin cycle. so like you I replaced the same shocks and retensioned springs. Only to find, once reassembled and power on, 3- dashes in display (---) and buzzer blaring. Now, can't access programming (press and hold START, while switching appliance on.........). No tech support on RU-vid at this level of disaster .. This is now scrap metal. Any thoughts? I must have scuppered the motherboard, but I doubt it after 16 years of hammering. I'm not blaming you at all, I was batting 1000 with repairs around the house up to this point. Would appreciate your thoughts as laundry is piling up around me as I write. No worries, plan B was to buy another Miele anyway. Such a nice machine before I mucked about. ;-)
Found this on another website.....3 dashes (or bars) in our Miele W1119 washer display. Beeping. All lights are off and machine is not working. Miele service call: the light bulb in the drum was loose! He pushed it back in and the machine worked fine again. This solution is nowhere to be found. Only in the service manual according to the service tech
@@PowerOn- no change after examining bulb and ohm testing, good. Appreciate your early (AM) reply at our bed time. Good-on-ya-mate. But would a dead light bulb cause this? On power up, pump runs for 2-minutes as described in manual. Nice to be retired and play with all my toys, but in a closet?, nice to know I still have what it takes. ;-), David
2 questions: 1st. My Siemens machine is running fine since 17 years. Would you in general recommend buying a new machine just because it uses less water and power? 2nd. What would you recommend, when moving a washing machine from one apartment to another ?
If it's running fine I'd keep using it. Washing machines have improved in efficiency but fridges have improved by a much higher degree so that's where I'd invest for an energy saving. As for moving, washing machines usually come with shipping brackets. After 17 years these are probably missing so just go gently when moving as they are typically very heavy due to the weights attached to the drum.
Bonjour! I'm not able to help you directly but, I would follow this video to remove the front and sides first, then remove the back. I think the back is the last to be removed as the water and electrical cable go through the back and a number of components are mounted on this panel. Good luck!
Miele W1926 took the front off, but sides and back don't come off. The sides and back are all one piece. No idea how to get to the two shocks and bolts and all of the springs from the front. Is there anyone out there that knows the Miele W1926 and how to service the shocks and springs? Any help would be very much appreciated.
Sorry, this video was made 5 years ago, i can't remember what i had for dinner last night! Just try ebay or if your concerned over quality buy a genuine part from a local reseller.
W3622 Platinum and avoiding damage - My 3622 does not have the kick plate covers but instead just needs a gentle pry and the top each side and about 3cm in from the edges. Also, I found that it I carefully use a Stanley knife blade flat to catch under the little screw covers then rock it I can remove them very carefully, And again with acrylic on face control panel. - ease the top surface of the facia panel up slightly with fingers and insert a 2cm wide blade scraper carefully, I avoided damage from a screwdriver to the ABS Plastic facia panel. Could do with showing that the control panel has a couple of connectors to undo and how to do that. That aside, very useful. Many Thanks
