in which we see some extreme stripping but get no lap dance, and then prove that a happy ending is still possible with a little elbow wax and discipline.
Hey Will as a FYI, when went to a Micro mesh class on how to polish out scratches on a real canopy. The one thing the instructor stressed was not to sand in a circular motion. We started out with the "roughest" grit, spray a lot of water (we used a regular pump type spray bottle with tap water) sand in one direction. Once the area felt smooth and you weren't feeling resistance on your sanding pad. We went to the next highest grit and started sanding 90 degrees from the previous direction, and so on and so on till it was almost crystal clear and then we used some plastic polishing compound.
Yes correct and I forgot to mention that. Always sand orthogonally. Having said that, I have to also say that I hate micromesh because of their shady made-up grit system. Regardless of that, though the technique is valid.
I've always used Mothers Plastic Headlight restorer. Paint, Super glue, scratch marks and fog from Lacquer thinner all comes clear and leaves a perfect shine using Mothers. A little dab on a cotton bud and some elbow grease. Works every time.
Excellent video. Thank you for sharing and stressing that this isn't rocket science but simply hard work to achieve the desired result. Your detailed explanations help a lot.
Maybe I was heavy handed and likely used the wrong buffing wheel, but I used a dremel and tamiya polishing compounds on my Tamiya 1/32 Spit canopy and had some melting happen. Many hours of hand sanding and polishing followed. Saved it.
You ever try Nevr-Dull? An old civilian watchmaker who worked in the instrument shop at one of the bases I was stationed used it to polish scratches out of watch crystals. He would put a little spit on his finger and rub it on a small piece of crocus cloth to pick up some of the rouge, then he'd rub the crystal with his finger to polish the scratches. Then he'd wipe that off and use a piece of Nevr-Dull to polish the haze off the crystal. He'd make scratches disappear in a crystal that you would think needed to be replaced. It's a cotton so you could take a piece of it and polish on the inside of the canopy with your finger.
Dettol antiseptic disinfectant is great at removing paint totally non-districtive. Soak overnight, but starts to work within minutes. No idea if it works on 2k though. Ironically, I have cracked a canopy putting blutak inside to support it so I didn't crack it!!!
How would you apply the uber subtle Gold ting to the canopy that is designed to keep the deliverence from blinding the cockpit in cold war era aircraft? by the way, we used Micromesh on aircraft canopies, up to 10,000 grit i beleive.
Wow. Starting with a 'disaster' and accompanied with some self ironically comments it ends with a great great result. I was entertained and learned a lot. So really great stuff. Thanks from Germany
Will, I may have missed it in an older video, but what kind of fiber are you using on that polishing wheel? My little cotton wheels don't seem to work well for me, even after I rough them up with a blade. Someone in the comments mentioned a soft foam medium for liquids?
@@barpfoto Shit, I feel lesser of a man now. My technique must suck, or I'm really obsessive of my shine with a cotton wheel and tubes of Tamiya polish. I'm getting some Zam.
What is the name of that polishing tool? I messed up a canopy by trying to remove some paint on it with mineral turpentine. The clear plastic immediately turned fuzzy! Is sanding the only option, or is there another way to fix it?
Hmmm......not convinced about not using Future. I think it really brightens and clears clear parts pretty darn good! Especially for the time commitment.
@@paulwoods4349 you're welcome to disagree. You do you. But that doesn't change the fact that you're doing unnecessary work and creating unnecessary risk and still not getting something that looks as good as a properly polished canopy.
Hi Will, I know I'm probably about to ask a stupid question ! But I'm sure I'm not alone. I have been modelling for 40 years. I started with airfix enamels and now use acrylics, but you talk about mrp laquers. So I lay myself on the alter of ridicule and ask what are laquers and what is the difference between it and paint . And could you do a video explaining. Many thanks ( from England which probably isn't far enough away from you ! ) john
Big difference is that the laquer of the MRP is what I'd call slightly hot, meaning that it ever so slightly melts the surface because it is a solvent to styrene (like a ketone) which actually kind of bonds the pigments on to the surface and gets superior adhesion that is resistant to peeling or wearing. It becomes one with the styrene like Tamiya liquid glue does to plastic, but far less volatile. Enamels are more of a varnish oil mix that hardens on top and doesn't penetrate the surface. Many "enamels" are more water based it seems these days. I think Will has some vids on it. Doog's Models I think does also as well as others. You can find them under MRP here on RU-vid.
Great tutorial. I don't think it matters about not getting a perfect finish. Aircraft , especially ones from a conflict wouldn't be perfect either. That was some example to show though. Are you sure magic wasn't involved?
Will, I have used Future/Pledge floor care to cover some small cracks on the canopy of my typhoon to a good effect, looks like those windshield repairs that enters into the cracs and make them desapear, I had some of them looking like the Phanton you have showed here some time ago, In my model it was gone, I have masked them, painted and it didn´t peeled off. Now to strip paint I always use IPA in the ultrasonic bath, works every time for me. And I see you like power tools, have you tried out the foam type polishing pad that are like the ones of real cars? you can prime it with the polishing liquid in small amounts so it does not fly everywhere, it is squishy so it fits and conform to many places, you can get one backplate with some velcro on it and you swap the top ones in different density to have more cut or less, you can find it in one or two inches of diameter, you can also find sanding discs to hook on that plate, I found very confortable to fix the tool to the table and move the piece around against the spounge of the pad . www.ebay.de/itm/1-Soft-Sponge-Polishing-Pads-M6-Air-Sander-Thread-Car-Buffing-Waxing-Clean-Tool-/323562194462 plus this one www.ebay.de/itm/Abrasives-1-Sander-Backer-Plate-Pad-1-8inch-Shank-100Pcs-Sanding-Paper-new/302963887782?hash=item468a0e0ea6:g:7XkAAOSwSppb8h5v:rk:25:pf:0
He needs attention because his mommy didnt love him, his wife wants him dead and his kids have disowned him and if he isn't following accomplished modelers around trolling them he otherwise gets none.
Glad to know you invented the wheel Cadenhead. I'll make sure to watch any announcements from you on what's new and what isn't. Otherwise I'd like to thank Will for all the effort he puts into to teaching and informing other noobs like me.
