Will you do our hobby such a great service with your videos - I always learn something new each time I watch your videos regardless if I've watched it multiple times no BS! The knowledge you impart on us all esp those new to model making or coming back into the hobby is priceless and you do not ask for donations or charity for doing it. I really appreciate your love of this hobby and your willingness to share and offer aid when asked for help by us. I can't begin to thank you enough for how much your channel has improved my modeling skills and I've been at it off and on for 35+ years. Will please keep doing what you do good Sir and I sincerely thank you, much love and respect!
Much needed video! Not enough info on this subject from the other sources. Mr. Color vs. Mr Hobby ,vs. Tamiya paints and what and why you can use to thin them, has had me pulling out my hair! Simple, by nature, it seams water and lacquer solvents don't mix! Will's video on metal finishes was "my go to video" when I was building my Model Svit P-51H Mustang. I used the Mr. Color Gloss Black, and Alclad Chrome System as was on that tutorial. I am impressed! And my work turned out great" if I don't say so myself(if I don't, who will)". But the fumes from some of these paints, and not being sure if I can substitute Alcohol in place of lacquer thinner etc. for less of a harmful vapor being released, has had me in limbo. Very true, the manufacturers don't really tell you much. I am determined to learn to adapt to painting outdoors as much as possible. The Mr. Color with leveling thinner has already won me over in terms of performance for very fine lines etc.. I think I will next try Tamiya and Mr. Color aqueous reducing with alcohol based thinner in some cases
Really interesting video, having only been back in the hobby for a year, come January and only started learning to airbrush since April, these are things I need to know.
Hi Will - paint chemistry huh? Great coverage - glad you didn't gloss over anything... Now I know what went wrong when I tried to dilute myself with alcohol - really informative video - thanks from the UK.
Thanks Will, well done and quite interesting as far as it went. It reminded me a bit of your video where you explained a bit about how scale effects shades of the "same" color. For myself, I have been really thinking about mixing pigments and bases to create my own model paints. The cost of paints compared to bulk cost of readily available pigments has truly led me to feel the we as modelers are being bled white by hobby suppliers. I confess to looking forwards to the howls of outrage and cries of heresy this video seems certain to generate! I for one appreciate your efforts on behalf of all of us.
Very interesting video, I am just getting into modeling and all the info helps. I am retired from being a professional auto painter so paint chemistry i am very familiar with, Even in my industry most clear coats are an acrylic urethane so I really get that this is a very universal term. I think this video will help out a lot of people and its always a good refresher even for veteran painters. Thanks for sharing all the info.
This was really useful. I come from painting on canvas and I was so confused to see Tamiya colors with flammable icons but also called acrylics. This video cleared up a lot of confusion. Very helpful. You earned a new subscriber.
Thanks, that was really useful to me. As someone who recently started modelling again since the 90's, I couldn't make heads nor tails of the "new" paints. I also noticed that modern plastic kits have as much detail, or maybe even more, as the resin detail kits from the 90's.😃
a fantastic video. really interesting stuff. I'm definitely with you on the'paint- nerd ' spectrum now! I've never seen a duff video by this chap. Really good stuff. Much love from the UK dude
Good video as usual. One point didn't come up and I'm not really sure what to make of it. For reasons of no smell & happy wife I use water based acrylics exclusively - the wonderful Golden High Flow are "go to." You have to mix your own military colors, but that's fun for me: Golden makes paint for the art market and includes the powerful "mixing" paints. I prime with Duplicolor sandable lacquer but only outside natch. (BTW: I think the acid test for water based acrylic is pretty simple - ask yourself if a third grade school teacher would use the stuff. If the answer is yes, you've got a water based paint. I wouldn't advise it, but I think you could drink a bottle of Vallejo Model Color with no ill effects - a bad idea with Alclad. And if anyone doubts your description about what happens to a water based acrylic when it dries, tell them to spill some on their clothes and try to remove it once dry. You don't.) As you note when using a water based acrylic you end up with a kind of film on the styrene. If you use lacquers (like my Duplicolor primer) the paint bonds with the plastic. Obviously the bond with the lacquer is stronger, but I think there's something else at work also. If you paint plastic with a lacquer the effect is to change the color of the plastic. However, if you cover plastic with a water based acrylic (Golden, Vallejo, Mission Models) it's as if a different color has been painted on top of a different base color. You do have to look at a model with this in mind but I can certainly tell a difference. What's better? When I look at real "war birds" it strikes me that it's quite evident that a layer of paint is over metal - you don't have metal that's olive drab. The last time I was at the Smithsonian in Maryland, the "paint coat" effect was very obvious. By the time one is done with weathering, the effect I'm talking about is pretty much gone. I certainly wouldn't claim that water based acrylics are better paints - I'd steer any new modeler to Tamiya paints.
great info. How about doing a tutorial/lesson/rant on how to remove old paint from a model by chemical means -- to avoid the drudgery of sanding/steel wooling etc.
Excellent video. What about using lacquers in an airbrush with rubber seals? How about using acrylics and lacquers in the same airbrush, after suitable cleaning?
Is the SMC Facebook Group closed to new members? I submitted my request but never heard back. Thank you for all you do, with no-nonsense strait to the point approach to sharing your knowledge and experience.
Yes. I read that you shouldn't connect alcohol with pure water based paints. But even knowing this, I added a touch of Tamiya Copper (alcohol based) to Vallejo Gunmetal (water based). Nice effect, a "warm silver." Painted OK, and I was thinking it worked, no "mix goo." But then I saw clumps here and there. The alcohol definitely reacted with the water and made goo. A little sanding and two touchups with pure Vallejo, and I was OK, lesson learned. I had assumed that a tad of Tamiya wouldn't be a problem, but it definitely was.
Hi Will Question not associated with your subject just snapped the sliding canopy on my special hobby KI27 across the top in-between the frame . ! Any thoughts . Did not slide anyway never fitted . Kind regards Tom
I just painted Tamya’s clear semi-gloss varnish unthinned with a brush over a white Tamiya coat, and it started to eat away the paint! I thought a varnish was supposed to protect the paint, not destrpy it!
For me Tamiya X-22 Clear came out frosted! Instead of making something gloss, it looked like it came out of the freezer. I generally like Tamiya, but have switched to Vallejo. Tamiya has alcohol in it, but Vallejp can be thinned with water.
Hey Will, Great video. Helps me a bit. But you forgot one paint that I'm using simply because i don't like Vallejo paint. It's too fragile to work with. I know you will probably have a heart attack but I'm using most of the time Model Master Acryl. My million dollars question is what would be the best thinner for it. It doesn't like water, IPA is tricky amd I haven't tried the unicorn tears 😂😂😂. Next video you need to do to compliment this one is, what to use to thin those paint 👍. Keep up the good work. Cheer
I have seen a lot of these explanations on paint 🎨 yours is very thorough Gangster bro ...only thing is at the end of the day they all lay down a certain color at a certain longevity and hardness factor . Let the paint wars begin cause I not paying $7 a bottle for paint.
Great info, I always thought AK real colors was a lacquer.? Yes I too like the lacquer paint and Tamiya Alcohol based paint mixed with a lacquer thinner is the strongest bonding paint.
Hey, have you ever tried Genesis oil paints? They cure when heat is applied. Wonder if that’s just a gimmick that can be achieved with traditional oils under certain circumstances or if they’re something unique.
Quite a few modelers are using food dehydrators as a "paint baking oven" as the temps can be set to a level that helps cure the paint but will not damage the plastics. I do not have one yet but it is on my list as a near future purchase for my car modeling hobby.
Paints are made up of three components: a pigment (gives paint its color), a vehicle (material that bonds to pigment and remains on the surface once the paint dries), and a solvent (any liquid that dissolves the vehicle to make paint liquid). There are only 2 general classifications of paint: - enamel: both dries and cures once applied to a surface. As the solvent evaporates, the vehicle undergoes a chemical reaction making it harder and less soluble than the liquid paint. - lacquer: only dries it does not cure. The solvent evaporates with no chemical reaction. "Acrylic” refers to the vehicle used in paint and not with how the paint reacts once it is applied. The vehicle in acrylic paint is a form of plastic and there are both “acrylic enamels” and “acrylic lacquers”. "For years, modelers, hobbyshop owners, and even “experts”, have referred to modeling paints as either enamel/lacquer (meaning that the paint uses a chemical solvent) or acrylic (meaning that water is the solvent). This is just plain wrong and only adds to the confusion". Now, I did not invent the above. I simply copy-pasted it from the following source: textilescommittee.nic.in/writereaddata/files/Lacquering%20and%20Paint.pdf. This file contains a lot more interesting information. Highly recommended reading.
Will whats your opinion on purchasing the following colors from Winsor & Newton Artist colors oils for someone who only builds aircraft with the occasional AFV kit - Davy's Gray,Charcoal Gray,Blue Black, Mars Black, Zinc White, Soft Mixing White??? I do fully understand with just the 3 primary colors + white all colors are produced from just these 4 paints including black and yes some would say its a waste of $$$ and it could be better spent on other tools/supplies but I prefer the idea of having several pre made standard colors that if needed or wanted can be tweaked by simply adding just a touch of primary color to produce a unique color for my current build. Since I mostly build planes the color range I think I should be using are more along the gray/brown spectrum (for the most part but always exceptions). I already have the basics Burnt Umber/Sienna , Sienna Napels Yellow, Cadmium Yellow/Red, Cobalt Blue,Ultramarine Blue,Titanium White,Unbleached Titanium White , Lamp Black and a few secondary colors ( greens, oranges ,violets). Can you please list the colors of oils you have and use the most when building aircraft?? also what are the most valuable oil colors I should get in your opinion that I haven't listed?? Great video as always Will you are educating us all one video at a time and for that I'm forever grateful. Almost forgot to mention I do not plan on going out and buying all this at once but when I make a trip to Hobby Lobby using their 40% off coupon to pick up a single tube at a time as I'm in no rush and can easily wait the few months it would take for me to eventually get all the wanted colors.
@@barpfoto Thank you Will I have looked and looked for other modelers to mention it and you are the first - I wasn't sure from the product label and never seeing other modelers talking about it.
Very informative, are enamels and oil paints the only paints that can be re activated? This type of information makes my models look better, thank you.
@@barpfoto This is why I need your videos, my modeling has improved immensely and I enjoy them more because I am more satisfied with the out come. I appreciate your content, thank you.
Hello Will, my name is David from Mexico, maybe you can help me, the question is, I can paint a model with enamels and acrylics paints? I mean, I have 36118 by Model Master and 36320 by Vallejo, can I used in the same model? Thank you
(The most well known emulsion is milk. Just people don't know what is it really.) AK Real Color is an odd thing, and not in the good way. The first batches were great, just as Tamiya and Gunze acrylics. Those were durable and stable paints, smelled almost exactly like Tamiya. And were as versatile as those. But AK modified the formula at least 2 times since. First of all, the never AK RCs can't thin with thinners that contain water. You may try it, but it become a mush, turd. So you must use lacquer thinners only. And those are smell as rotten enamel. Still usable, durable paints, but the quality have fallen, inconsistent from color to color. The next modification retain all of these bad properties. But the paints became almost unresilient to anything. Those paints chipping from the plastic or primer. Liquid masks peel them off, BlueTac remove a lot of pigments from them, making harsh discolorations. And another thing with these last batches (presented in some colors in the second batches too, such as the NATO BLACK (light gray component separating from the black), but now almost every of them): they fell apart in the paintcup of the airbrush. And the different pigments have different density, so your paints color change according to the air pressure you use. Good luck using it for marble coating. And these paints sit comfortably in the tip of the needle, regardless of the thinning. Quality is almost non existent in the term of consistency. Still varying from color to color, but now from can to can too. I bought a NATO camo set (RC080, RC081, RC082, second batch) and after that a SEA Camo set (Paint Set 47, third batch) after the good experiences with the IDF Sinai Grey (RC094, first batch). I wrote about the NATO Black, but at least that paints well, just as the NATO Brown. The NATO Green became dark green speckled all the time, regardless of thinning and pressure. Still usable paint though. But the SEA set... Four paint, four different viscosity. The grey and tan not that bad, but the greens. The RC083 Green is almost like pudding, while the RC027 Forest Green is like honey. You can thin them to hell, but that make them extremely fragile. And all of them, except the grey, separating in the cup. I have an ADC Grey for my F-106, I hope it won't ruin that model. Its second batch, so there is hope. Summary: AK Real Color started great, and became one of the crappiest paints on the market. Almost as inconsistent and bad as Revell acrilycs. I never buy any paint from AK again. At the end I take from the bottom of my drower the 25 years old Model Master enamels, and painted the upper camo with them. (1742 Dark Tan, 1713 Medium Green and 1710 Dark Green) Those old paints still works much better, then the new and super-duper AK manure. (The MM 1710 was almost dead, what you can smell in a MM enamel. But I can revive it with lacquer thinner, and it sprays fine.)
Awesome video.. iam a paint Nerd also iam such a paint Nerd I have my son do research on paints for me at his lab at the university of Michigan .I model fulltime and go through lots of paint right now my favorite paint is mr.color I do like MRP paint but I go through it very fast so sometimes its hard to get the Military colors that I use for German ww2 vehicles and airplanes but if they could get bigger bottles like 2 oz. Or 6oz that would help me out a lot ..but i love the mr.color paints to me its a awesome paint and I have no complaints I also get it at a very good price. I test new paint every week I think I have over 1000 bottles of paint Seriously .I am also a glue nerd I keep a Refrigerator full of Cyanoacrylate glue I do a lot of Photo etched work. I solder the big stuff and glue small stuff. But iam always looking for the next greatest paint or glue. For me the only primer that I use is stynylrez hand down I get it in 32oz bottles just because they don't sell it in Gallons. I've tested primers for years its performance is It's perfect for me I don't do a lot of sanding after I prime at all . So I do not look for a primer that I can sand .
Oh - I completely disagree - word of the chemistry of these things needs to spread. I can't tell you how many times someone needs help trying to figure out why their $100 dollar dream model kit melted and set fire to itself because they had no idea what they were using on it. Nice video, by the way. I've personally classified and categorized these paints to try to distinguish them. As you've pointed out, it can be real difficult to do so just from the branding alone, let alone the different flavors of chemicals. For instance, a lot of people assume that Tamiya spray cans are acrylics because most of their paint lines are acrylics.
This comes because of the experts in forums like SMCG that say this or that paint is not acrylic, but a polymerase pork chop grease and crayon chips suspended in brake fluid. I find these paint 'splainers tiresome.
