This is a quick fix to prevent Theft light flashing and causing a no start condition. When it’s cold it still happens so the next video on the subject I hope to diagnose for the complete fix but for now she’s good to go!
I was taught when taken apart the switch you frist disconnect the battery so the air bag doesn't go off while taken apart the column and switch. Safty first.
I know this is a old video but is there any chance you could tell me what that black ring is called? There’s a white sensor that goes under it into the cylinder and mine is broke so I’m trying to figure out how to fix it.
What’s up Jacob, I’m not sure what it’s specifically called, I believe its part is the key sensing system for anti-theft; what I would do is try and find a parts diagram online or most likely will have to call a local Ford Dealer to have them help you track down a part number etc
Trying to figure out my 2002 Ford Ranger..no turn over at switch, all lights work ect. I currently have battery charger on but once I turn the key enough for starter to engage..nothing, the clock on radio goes away like a weak battery yet I can hit both posts on starter it will turn but not hit...once I turn the key switch enough to try to engage the starter the anti theft light blinks 3 times as faster than normal....any suggestions would be greatly appreciated
It sounds like the antitheft system is disabling cranking, did you recently have a new key made or anything else that happened recently related to key, ignition switch or has anyone tried to steal the vehicle? Inside the key is a chip that communicates with the security system. If the key is original, it might be the key itself or possibly sensor in ignition switch not being able to communicate with key. You can try calling your local Ford dealer to see if there are any technical service bulletins related to the issue you’re having as well.
My 98 expedition also does this. Its extremely annoying. Fortunately i have another vehicle to drive aswell. But still i want to get this addressed Asap.
Does this affect the steering wheel too because I just took that apart and now my steering wheel is like locked it like turns a little bit then it locks and the key cylinder doesn’t go all the way back now but the car starts that’s why I’m confused
The ignition lock cylinder, with the correct key installed should unlock the steering wheel; It’s either the key, the ignition lock cylinder, or the mechanical side on steering wheel.
Sounds like if you just took it apart and back together steering wheel stays locked possibly incorrect reinstallation or something broke? Get a good flashlight and look around to see if something may have busted in the process? Just some ideas, let us know how it goes !
Hi Lindsay, I’m not sure what it’s called but if you call your local Ford dealership they should be able to you identify the part; I’ll do some research to see if I can come up with something
Check I hope I say this right I have a 1998 ford expedition I was driving it and it just died when I was coming up to a light And it will not start I got no spark to my coils My anti-theft light on my dash dus not come on at all the bulb is good soo can you help me please and give a yeah which way to go
First check your battery charge level and quality of connections, if you have a scan tool see if there are any set trouble codes or pending. You should see some anti theft codes pop up if it has to do with that. The first step is to rule out your anti theft system, have you had new keys made for it lately or had any work done near steering column etc? I would try and find an electrical diagram of the anti theft system and make sure you’re getting voltage to light , that’s odd it doesn’t light up at all. Aside from any anti theft issues check into the crank/cam sensor to see if it’s working to let ECM know that engine is rotating to start etc. If you’re not getting spark, check to see if you’re injectors are operating, if they aren’t then something electrical is inhibiting start up. Just a couple ideas I wish I could help more, keep us posted!
@@LastFrontierGarage that second hole under the column on the right side .is the lock cylinder release tab( the hole next to the last screw he took out )without taking anything apart A pointy screwdriver and the ignition turned like you had it would save you Smith of time ..just push it in . my god you gotta work smart it hard
How about checking for a code but you need to get rid of the too ton of keys you mite just have a bad relay or a bad fuse .You didn't show the truck run so we don't know if you fixed the problem you tore into it with out diagnosing the problem.
This was happening with the previous owner as well, good point with keys though and as far as codes I didn’t have a scan tool capable of communication with anti-theft system. What I did to the metal tang did provide a temporary fix but I never claimed to providea complete diagnosis and/or repair, it has happened since a couple of times so it does need more diagnosis, but this was a year and a half ago so it’s been something we haven't worried about; if you’ve made a complete diagnosis video already please point everyone to it! This video has taken off a bit for some reason and I've been wondering so far if someone was going to ask about that, appreciate you tuning in @tony cotta !!
@@LastFrontierGarage If you wait till the light stops blinking it will give you a code it could be a code 11 to 17 but you have to wait till stops blinking.
Hey Billy, sorry about that, this is an old video and the quick fix I did in video does work in some situations; do you have any questions that I could try and help with?
Don't waste your time on this video. The first 10 minutes taking off a panel that never needed to be taken off then not having the proper tools to do it. Ridiculous video.😊
