Mine was working fine, then I had to replace a breaker in the system. When I powered things back up, I must have connected the panels first, then the battery. I heard something, which turned out to be the two 30a fuses. Thank you for posting or I would probably have scrapped it and started over. I'm a tad surprised that the fuses were soldered? in! I added remote fuse holders as you did and everything is good again. Thanks again for posting!
Good idea to pop some fuse carriers in, but try to keep the cable length both short and the same length for each one to ensure the fuses carry equal load. To blow 60 amps of fusing (which will probably carry 80amps for a bit) something has gone a bit wrong. Was this fused or connected to a breaker externally?
I shortened the longer cable to match the other shorter one, was a bit tricky to fit the fuse holders in there. I really don't know what went wrong, I did have a breaker in the line. I think I'll only run one panel on it now, just in case. I'm setting up a new 12v system. Stay tuned😁 Thanks Adam ☺
Do you know if the terminal blocks can be replaced on these? One of mine has fried due to a loose connection. And if so, how do you get them out? Thanks.
Hi, I had to watch my video back, that was a little while ago. I suspect that you could, I imagine you would have to remove the entire pcb from the case and have a look at the other side of the board. 'm not sure exactly sorry. Hopefully there's another video somewhere that can help you out 👍🏼
@offgriddreaming5403 thank you. If I figure it out, I'll let you know! Those screws are so poor, they sometimes don't tighten properly and lead to loose connections. Then they heat up and melt the casing!
I’d love to know if there’s an internal fuse for the load output. Ive had only good luck with two epever controllers, but after the recent hurricane close call we had, in Florida, which knocked the roof top mooring light off the boat, i arrived to find the positive and negative load wires contacting each other, with a load warning signal. After correcting the wiring, my load still wont illuminate a small LED. The controllers are cheap enough to replace this malfunctioning unit, but with severe coastal damage it’s not likely Ill be able to visit our boat again soon, and will hate to leave a roof light permanently illuminated, I guess I’ve been spoiled by the lights functioning automatically for the past several years.
Hmm, so any idea what blew the fuses or what is connected behind them? Could be something on the load side that shorted maybe? If not, it might break on you again when you start connecting the solar panels and/or load to it.. Cool system you got there anyway :). And nice to hear some of the birds in the background too haha. Gives it a nice vibe.
I am really not sure what made them blow. I'll be keeping a close eye on it when I set it up again! I'll be using less solar as well. Thanks for the positive comment 😊 We have a lot of birds where I live, they make a great soundtrack, glad you enjoyed them.
Never run these at their max rated voltage. I found ~75pvdc to be their limit. They work best when you use multiple chargers rather than 1 big one. So like 1 for every 2-3 solar panels.
You mentioned it was working fine, then you setup your 48v system, and plugged it back in. Are you implying that you plugged this into a 48v battery? If so that was you problem. The 30a tracers only do up to 24v
Hi there, how was it getting the fuse out? Looked at mine, the fuse seems flush with the board and no way of accessing it from underneath. Hoping to change the fuse as it's blown, please help!!
Hi From memory it wasn't that close to the board on mine. Can you get some small snips in there? If not you may need to desolder from back of board and add some short pieces of wire then fuse. Good luck
Mine still powers but not charging. Changed a diode it worked for another 2 weeks and now, Diode is ok, powers is on but not charging. Now it's confusing.
I have a 20amp tracer that shows battery as not charging and a 12v battery voltage reading on the charge controller reads 45v. Plugging the battery on a multi meter reads 12.8 volts and the inverter doesn't complain about over voltage. What could be the cause?
I asked for a line with the output of the temperature meter with a positive line of solar energy and the device stopped working and the display of the meter meter mt50 is in contact and comment on it is there a possibility to repair it thanks
@@offgriddreaming5403 thank you for that information. I had a Renogy charge controller with the same issue. It was almost impossible for a mortal like myself to get to the fuses. At least this one has access.
i have a problem with the mppt epever tracer controller, the problem is the screen on the lcd has no indicator image but the lcd screen light remains on, is there a solution to fix it, thanks
