Some of them are really tight and stuck. Most people use a big air impact. If that doesnt break them loos you might have to use a litle heat on them, but have to be careful not to damage anything.
Yes this kit will help you with your low end. It will give it a little more stall and better back shifting with the different setting on the secondary.
Yes we do advise you to change the wet clutch springs to give you the extra stall but if you don't change them it will have the stock stall and might not come off the line as hard but other than that everything will work as it should.
hello I had the secondary variator pulley bushings or bushing machined, since one of the bushings was not there and the other had a lot of play that made the pulley wobble, I wanted to know if I can compress the secondary spring as it is in the video fix variator overheating causing belts to break ,, Thank you Abrir en Google Traductor • Comentarios Traductor de Google
I have the 2014 model does it have a wet clutch as well? I’m asking because I wanted to use 0w-40 European car formula , it was the api sm cert that the manual recommends
Is this the "Economy Clutch Kit" (WE437076)? Will this help me get some more low end grunt? I'm going to put 27inch wheels on my XC450i and I am afraid I will loose power in the lower RPMs...
Know this old but i have a 2002 vinson and for the life of me i can't get the secondary clutch nut off I'm turning it lefty loosie if i use an impact what size i a 1000 ftlb and the nut wont budge like i said im turning it to the left unless it has reverse threads some help would be appreciated
Been a while since I did one of those but the secondary nut should be a 32mm and e the normal right hand threads. The only part that should be left hand thread is the nut on the internal wet clutch (24mm). If its still not coming off someone must have way over torqued it or put a lot of loctite or something on it. They can be tight and hard to get off but if you have that big of impact it should come off. You could try applying a little heat, but you have to be careful.
si quelqu'un peux faire une brève traduction sur ce qui se passe dans cette vidéo, ça serait pas mal. Il fait quoi au juste ? Une démo de démontage et remontage d'un vario ? ou c'est autre chose ?
Great video! I do have a question. I also have the same model Arctic Cat and I plan on replacing the rollers. What causes the rollers and dampers to melt in the Primary?
Usually excessive heat from hard and aggressive driving, or working the machine hard like pulling a heavy trailer or mudding. Dirty or worn clutches and belt will magnify the heat issue. If you can ride easier that will help the most, vary speeds and rpms up and down more often and if your riding hard try to ride hard for a little bit, back off a little bit for things to help cool and then ride harder again if needed.
Hi Alex, We haven't tested any of the newer 400's. But would guess that it would work, but unfortunately cant tell you for sure being we haven't tested it.
One more question before I order, i would also like to change my weights in my clutch I know the stock ones are 18grams, what would you recommend changing them to? I was thinking 16, and would you have a link or product number to weights that work in that clutch? I should also inform you I plan on machining my primary sheaves as well about 2.5mm
We don't have the weights for the 450. Our kit for that machine is a economy kit that includes new wet clutch springs and instructions on how to reset the secondary spring. The kit will still work if you machine your sheaves.
Actual engine hp stays the same, but it takes the hp and gets more of it to the ground. This kit will give you more low end and midrange power, and faster throttle response. Top end stays the same.
I have that same secondary on my 366 cat would doing the back spring preload thing help it with bottom end like you said and how does that affect the normal driving on it
if you preload the spring a little more that will normally help the clutch backshift or downshift faster and help grip the belt a little better. If it gets to stiff it will start hurting your top end speed and your acceleration up to it.
in most cases that means the clutches got really hot and that can cause a flat spot on the rollers. Once it gets a little flat spot it will get stuck on the flat spot and eventually instead of rolling they will start sliding and wearing down the roller.
It is pretty much the same process. We also have a video on the older 700 Arctic Cat which would be really similar. You can find it at our website at www.epiperformance.com and then go to tech and videos or you should be abel to find on our youtube. Hope that helps. Thanks
Usually we recommend the OE oil. You can run aftermarket oil but it must be designed for wet clutches. It should say on the back of the conatiner. A lot of the automotive oils are not designed for wet clutches.
Hello, on all the ones I have done there has always been at least one threaded hole. IF it doesn't have any then you are going to have to fight the belt on there which im guessing will be hard to do.
+william carroll WE still haven't been able to get a hold of one of these machines. As soon as we can we will test it. The hard part is if you don't get it done in the two to threes weeks we wont be able to test until spring because our ground will be frozen and covered with snow.
+william carroll Yeah that would have worked awesome. We do some testing in Texas during Mud Nationals and we head south to test our sand kits in Glamis so there is a small chance we would get it done but more likely not until spring.
We are not sure, we haven't been able to test a 2013 500 XT yet. There is a good chance it would but we could tell you for sure until we got a chance to test it.
