One of the few vlogs for which I shut down everything else, go full-screen mode, and watch like kid's cartoons on a Saturday morning. Thanks for sharing. Go Berringer!
Hello, congratulations for these videos and for showing us the entire process of covering the aircraft that you are building, I appreciate that you share this valuable knowledge with many fans, I wish you all the success and I look forward to seeing the aircraft fly.
Thanks Bryan with continuing to so the progress. Hoping you will show more on your approach with developing your own Apex engine mount. Your wife must be quite understanding for you to spend a lot of time in the shop getting your build completed.
Hi Bryan, I am so grateful to have found your Project Kitfox site. Viewing your videos has been great on multiple fronts: Never having built an airplane before, I am getting more and more confidence by watching you do it, your build processes are good information, and it is satisfying my desire to be doing something and getting going on the project. I have an 7SS on order, and due to the backlog, the current delivery is April 2021. I live in Boise, so I have good access to the factory in Homedale, and in fact toured the factory before I ordered. Brandon showed my son and I around and we were very impressed with cleanliness, organization, etc. I plan on building in my one car garage, so I have some space considerations to manage. I think I can get most of the initial build done in that space, and I may need to find a larger space to do the final assembly - firewall forward, etc. Keep up the good work. The Apex piece of the project is very exciting.
Hi Dave, I'm located in Caldwell and have been considering building a Kitfox as well. Might be good if we connected to share info. You can reach me at vavalencia@gmail.com.
Glad you picked up on the glue on first, then MEK to reactivate. By accident, I discovered that method 30 years ago. If done properly, you can actually forget about rib stitching. It is not going to come loose. I am sure you have already noticed that it is almost impossible to tear the fabric loose where you used this method. Great video.
Fantastic video documentation of your Kitfox build...I just subscribed and LOVE watching your videos! Your personality is perfect for presenting the builder side of kitplane building...keep up the great job! I flew the AH-1S Cobra back in the day before working for 3 major airlines. I'm looking forward to my next kitplane build starting in January 2020...watching your videos is making me anxious to start! LOL!
I see you got the issue with the iron sorted. And, from the start, I like, I subscribe, I tell the bell to ring, ring, ring, Bryan. As for telling others, I started flying over six decades ago and most of the aviators I knew have long since made their final approach and exited the active, alas. 😉
When you redo the old adhesive, do the center first. Let it dry and then do the outer edge. There is tension in the fabric. If the rebonding loosens the outer edge you can get a pull away on the outer edge if you do it all at once. If the fabric hasn't been ironed and shrunk, then there is no problem.
We did the same coupe of years ago. apply the "glue", then dry fabric on top and i brush it with what i believe was a "thin" mix of thinner and "glue". Was only helping out so i can't remember the products we used but the thinner at the time was acetone. I'm sure there are better chemicals around these days for a good reason. BTW you can use you phone headset mic to record your talking via your smartphone.
When you apply the glue to the entire fuel tank and leading edge, you hold the fabric in place, preventing it from moving, but you also prevent it from shrinking and you will notice you r wrinkles may not disappear, and the fabric may not tighten up like it should. That's why they say not to coat the entire tank and leading edge. It could work out for you, but that's the reason for no glue.
Yes no poly tac in those places, but you do use the poly brush under the fabric, let it dry, shrink and then apply the poly brush over the top to join the two layers. I will show that process in the next video.
Definitely thinking about a tail dragger for myself since I occasionally get to climb into a couple from the thirties & forties. Just not sure if I want to build or pick up a used Kitfox.
@@kevdupuis I am building, it is one of my dreams to build my own, helped my dad build one a plane but never got to fly it. It was all metal since he was in sheet metal shop at Lockheed for 51 years. it was a Pazmany PL-4A
Seems like Oratex is getting way more popular with these kit builds lot of people don't have access to the paint booths live in tract homes where can't really use toxic smelling chemicals.
Hi Bryan, did you by any chance put any strengthening tubes in the trailing edge of your wings, if so what did you opt for ? Apparently it's so you can heat the fabric more for extra strength. Thanks. Jez.
Thanks for posting great videos! I myself building a SS7 and you have been a great help. One question: it has just occurred to me that, if you’re building a high wing airplane, would it be better to cover the top of the wing followed by the bottom? That way the seams would be less visible as you look at it standing on the ground...
The finishing tapes will cover it either way, but Kitfox said they are doing the bottom first on the STI wing and the standard wing with the composite leading edge, I will get in to this issue a lot more in the part 3 video.
Hey Bryan, very nice work on the wing...I'm sure "the final stretch" is both a relief and a lot of satisfaction simultaneously... I'm curious though, why no pre-wire or at least a pull string for guidance of the electrical in the wings?
I have a question. When ironing the covering tight is it possible to get a twist in the wing? I have picked up a kit fox 2 that I'm going to rebuild. I'm really enjoying you videos so keep up the good work.
Hi there... I. M about to start rebuilding my two wings of my kitfox 2.. And I wonder if you can give me some tips in how to build it the way it should be... I. M training to get motivate. Because I having fly in 2 years.... I really like your videos... They are very helpful...... Thanks for that.. My nane is Edwin ... I. M from Costa Rica.... .I don't know your nane.... Thanks again...
Does the humidity make a difference in cure time as far as the glueing process? Could see in the time lapse on the video the polycoat dried quite fast. Great info Brian, looking great as well.
I did a temporary covering on the model 5 with duct tape to test the airspeed gains and so no improvement. I like having them uncovered so that I can use the cross bar as a step, but I think I will cover the legs on the model 7.
@@BowenAero Thanks for the reply, I was thinking more in terms of looks than aero, but if it's practical the way it is, so be it! Thanks for the content, keep up the good work
I just wonder about something here. Would it not be better to glue the fabric around the outer ends ( leading and trailng edges and root and tip areas ), shrink the fabric first and then apply the glue on the ribs etc. I have an idea that glueing the ribs first then shrink the fabric may put strain on the glued areas when the fabric shrinks. Shrinking the fabric before gluing it should allow the fabric to move freely until the shrinking is done and you'd have a relaxed glue joint. Just a thought. Any input would be appreciated. I have never done this so I'm just curious.
Jim has suggested the same thing. I will try that on the right wing, however, this is not how the manual suggest it be done. Instead the manual has you go over all the cemented areas after 15 minutes at 250 degrees, this accomplishes the same thing as the method you suggest, to release unequal tension.
It could be a concern if you don't follow the shrinking procedures. The manual covers the pattern to do the shrinking and also the temperature increases. If you follow those you shouldn't have a problem. I think it would be more of a concern on less robust wings like on ultralights.
Apparently you did not carefully read the Polyfiber manual AND the Kitfox manual section on covering because that method of precoating the ribs and tank and then reactivating later with thinned Polytak or Polybrush is explained in detail. One other thing, it would have been better if you had waited until after the first heat stage of preshrink to activate the rib glue with the thinned Polytak. When all the perimeter edges are securely glued down, then do a first stage shrink to remove all wrinkles and sags; this equalizes the tension uniformly all over the wing. THEN go through and reactivate the rib glue to stick them down. Its probably not a huge deal, but the way you did it you end up with a bunch of independently glued and shrunk panels instead of one big one. A panel with more sag or wrinkles in it compared to the one next door will end up with less tension in it than its neighbor, which then can cause a transverse pull across the rib. One last caution-make sure the bottom fabric is securely glued to the ribs; due to the slight undercamber of these ribs it may require some weights to hold the fabric against the ribs while the reactivated glue is drying.
Jim, I did read the manual carefully and I'm trying to share the techniques with others. I appreciate constructive feedback, but not condescension. The use of two coats of poly brush is referred to on the leading edge not the fuel tank, in the Poly-Fiber manual. They do not mention doing the same thing with Poly-tak. The Kitfox manual does state to put one coat of Poly-brush on the tank not 2. The tip I'm giving is to put at least 2 coats on the fiberglass fuel tank and the composite leading edge on the Kitfox. This is because of inadequate bonding that I have experienced with the fuel tank on my model 5. The thinned Poly-tak tip for cutting clean lines is in the manual, but using it over the fabric to bond the glue underneath is not. They actually state not to do that specifically if the bottom glue is still drying in this note "Don't brush more Poly-Tak over the top surface of drying cement seam. Resist this temptation! Doing so could hurt the bond. The top coat will dry before the original bottom coat, impeding drying of the bottom coat." So the method described to me should only be done after the bottom coat has had time to dry. The Kitfox manual says to pre-coat each rib cap strip with Poly-Tak but does not follow that direction with the use of the thinned Poly-Tak over the top of the fabric.This is in section B page 8 if you would like to review. I appreciate the tip to do the initial shrink before reactivating the glue on the internal ribs, since it is not in either manual. However, this is not how the manual suggest it be done. Instead the manual has you go over all the cemented areas after 15 minutes at 250 degrees, this accomplishes the same thing as your method, to release unequal tension. When using the thinned Poly-Tak to reactivate the bond on the ribs, I will try your method on the right wing to see if it works better and then share that tip.
@@BowenAero Sorry if I came across too strong, and the Polytak precoating instructions in the Polyfiber manual might be easy to miss. They are on page 99, Appendix C, Concave-Bottom Wing, which does apply to the Kitfox. It explains precoating with Polytak and then reactivating with MEK thinned Polytak. Since you are a popular RU-vid site and many people will be following you because you are doing such a good job of sharing your build techniques, I think people should know that most of these techniques are straight out of the manuals and not just tips that you were lucky to ask and find out about. Keep up the good work!
Yep, and my previous Kitfox it was not attached to the tank and it would lift creating enormous drag. Do it the way you want, but it is much better attached to the tank with poly brush not poly tax.
I think Bryan mentioned before that the kit came with the fabric and all the cans of chemicals being used, so it would have been an additional cost. Plus the oratex isn't painted afterwards so your final product is whatever the initial color starts as. 🤔
