For anyone that wants to try Alumilite Amazing Clear cast (Epoxy I use) click this link to get 10% off! www.alumilite.com/resins/amazing-clear-cast-plus/?aff=130
great vid. i used to use etex, then switched to the kbs. i wanted to try the dip-n-done clearcoat, and, i'd get the fish-eyes now and again with the etex, and the kbs apparently never has a problem. it definitely sticks to anything, and never fish-eyes or anything, it's always a perfect coating. but, like you mentioned, it's definitely not as hard. also, it's fumes are extremely hazardous. wearing the proper mask and having ventilation are a must. and for my lures, i don't have an eye at the rear, mine's on the belly. so the hang 'em and leave 'em luxury, wasn't there. i'd have to sit and dab the accumulating drops at the bottom of the lure as they hung. so that kinda negated the benefits of the dip-n-done aspect, for me anyway. it was great, not having to mix up the clearcoat. and, simply dipping the lure and hanging it, as opposed to brushing on the epoxy and then turning for hours. the time didn't really matter, as they'd sit all night regardless. but my batch of kbs is done now, so i'm going back to epoxy, for the harder finish. i guess i'll see which i prefer now, as i've tried both. maybe i'm forgetting things that i didn't like about the epoxy, i don't know. and besides, my turner i made has been taking up too much room and getting dusty, so i might as well put it back to use.
This is my new favorite channel!!! I'm just getting started making musky / pike / striper baits! I watch a LOT of channels but I like how you explain stuff
Thanks for the video! I was very surprised to see you apply coats so quickly to each other. I do understand the chemical bond is necessary for a strong durable finish. I always worry about the first coat not drying enough before the second coat covers it and making a sticky bait. I guess this isn’t the case?
Nice info. I have a question, I am not using epoxy for lures, but as a glue mostly and spreading it over a larger surface area, so if I get Devcon 2 ton epoxy 30min would a foam brush be good at spreading it and not pulling off chunks of the foam? Last time I used art brush and the epoxy pulled out hair everywhere.
Great video! Lots of good info. Thanks!! I've been fixing up some old baits and am giving this stuff a try. Made a bait turner out of a rotisserie. Only question is approximately how long do you let them turn?
Using an epoxy like amazing clear cast / Envirotex lite or Trucoat , I usually let them rotate over night. But as long as the room they are rotating in is a normal temperature (Not a cold garage in winter PS. they would never fully cure in that condition) and as long as the humidity isn't super high in the room it usually take around 3-4 around for it to be cured enough to turn the wheel off. then id say baits for personal use i usually wait around 24 hours before letting them touch water. Baits for customer at least 48 hours before I handle them and add hooks.
Hi,i didnt use this one but i was use envirotex lite,i am not happy with bcz many scratches.So, wich is the best epoxy for you?mean clear coat,no scratches,really strong?Thanks
I have dowels with screws on the ends and also dowels with eyelets (like we use for baits) on the end. 90% of my baits get tails on them after they are done, so they all the a piece of wire in the butt end as a guide for putting on tails. So I simply Pre-drill that hole where the wire will go and screw the dowels into that hole in order to secure them for painting and epoxy. Once the epoxy coats are all dry i unscrew them and epoxy my piece of wire into the hole. Hope that helps bud. If you need a visual and of all that let me know! DJ🤙🇺🇸
Great video. Making my first musky baits. How long after I coat a bait should I wait before the second coat. My goal is to do 3 coats without scuffing. Should the bait be sticky or almost dry before second coat?
it can very. But id say its safe to apply a second coat 1 hour - 2.5 hours after the first. You dont want to wait to long to apply the next coat. You want to apply the next coat while to chemical process is still in motion from the first coat so that they will bond together and not just be 1 coat laying ontop of the other. put your 1st coat on, let it go for an hour, and it should be tight enough to go ahead and lay the next coat. repeat until the boat is coated how youd like. Its 100% better to do the process this way rather than scuffing. Good luck brotha! hope this helps
Andrew S thanks for watching brotha! Here’s the link where I bought it! Dayton 52JE17 AC Gear Motor, Nameplate 4 RPM, 0.32 Amp, 115V www.amazon.com/dp/B01N18GDB2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_N8ejFbYTEVY5C
Thank you I started using Alumilite and it works great but please can you help me with this question. I build wood fishing lures for the love of it I'm not a business but I wood like to sign my lures. How do you do it. Thank you for your time.
paint pens work the best for me . u can also use sharpies but they bleed some times when applying epoxy. best best is a paint pen like the one ill link here , then once u sign ur name (after paint and before finish coats of epoxy) hit it with a heat gun for a second to dry the signature. Hope this helps! www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003W0XT7G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_image?ie=UTF8&th=1
DJ I’ve never painted a Hard bait before but I’m interested in starting, i’ve been watching some videos on using the aluminum tape to create details on a hard bait and was wondering once I start that what is the best Apoxsee to seal that in before painting them Any advice would be helpful thank you so much I just found your video and subscribed Danny
heck yea brotha, Its a lot of fun. 1st on the Aluminum tape, I've used all diff kinds as well as just using aluminum foil and adhering it with spray adhesive (huge pain in the ass) but both have there upsides and downsides. The tape is easier to get the pattern you are looking for. I've done patterns by hand as well as using a cricket craft machine to imprint what ever pattern I wanted. But the problem I always run into with the tape is when you peel the tape off the backing once you've got your pattern on it, it tends to mess the pattern up some. straight aluminum foil with spray adhesive works good but it can be a damn mess and doesn't always adhere like you'd you like it to. the best way ive found to do it is peel the tape of the backing a couple time and basically make is less sticky (I know seems counter productive) but here me out. Once you've done that a few time stick it back onto the tape backing and proceed to create your pattern how ever you plan to do so. then when you peel it off it will not wreck your pattern that you just spent and hour doing. and from there spray a bit of adhesive or 5 minute epoxy and lay it on the bait. As far as epoxy goes I personally like amazing clear cast. I've used tons of epoxy's and I've found nothing that compares. I have never tried trucoat which some bait guys use, and I do know the owner and he's a good dude. If I had to guess I'd think it works just as good as amazing clear cast. 1 last thing regarding the foil , Either do that entire process with gloves on to prevent oil from your hands getting on the foil and bait (very difficult with gloves on to do lol) or as I have always done, simply clean it with Windex or something once you have it attached to the bait. If you leave the oil from your hands on the foil the epoxy will not adhere in those spots. And being that foil is super smooth, epoxy already has a tough time creating some kind of chemical bond. Sorry for writing a book lol. Hope that all makes sense and helps! let me know if there's anything else I can help you with! DJ 🤙 🤙 🤙 🤙
Hey DJ, enjoyed the video & would love to see you airbrushing & applying the lure tape .What type of lure tape do you use? I've been hard-core tying saltwater flies for 40 years and I have an application I'd like to use the tape on. Foam "Crease-Flies." 2mm & 3mm polyethelene white foam is used for the fly's body. I tie them from very small to 12" and have designed a Tube system for them, along with articulated Flag Tails. I've been using Holographic Transfer Foil, adhered with 2-Way Scrapbook tape (6" wide super rolls). I'd like to try the lure tape. Also just getting interested in airbrushing. Would love to ask you some questions on that. Are you on facebook?
Hey, whats up? I noticed in an earlier video that we use the same hobby lobby. I guess we are from the same area. I also make baits. Keep up the great work!
The best looking baits i have seen. Thanks making these videos. Can i use the same kind of epoxy used for bar tops? I have a bunch of that so if that stuff works i want to use it. Wish i could buy your lures.
Thanks man! Really appreciate the kind words! I have put bait making on pause for 2 years now so I don’t have anything for sale. But to answer your question yes you can. It works perfectly fine for lures. Amazing clear cast which I use, is also used for table top pours often.
@DJCustomBaits thanks for the reply. I can't stop looking and watching videos of these lures. I just want all of them to hang up in my house. Real works of art. Hope all is well, take care.
I usually will use 5 minute epoxy to glue them in. main reason is because it dries quickly and makes it less likely that they will shift or become off center before they dry. Then i usually go back in and fill any extra open space around the lip (do to me not being perfect and not always making perfect clean cuts) with all purpose bondo. It Dries very very hard and acts as another safety mechanism to keep them solid in place. Then I will drill holes and pin them with finishing nails as an extra assurance they wont come loose. I have also done in in a diff order that works as well. using super glue simpy the keep them in place while i pin then using finishing nails. Then once pinned I use 5 or 15 minute epoxy and secure them in perfectly. Then obviously when you do your base coats of epoxy and finish coats of epoxy, they will secure them even more. hope this helps brotha!
Sorry for the late reply brotha, Its a Dayton 52JE17 AC Gear Motor, Nameplate 4 RPM, 0.32 Amp, 115V . www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N18GDB2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Hey DJ... This is the first video I have seen of yours.. I started making some wood baits but gave up. Getting the weight right and location never worked out yet. So I started painting plastic blanks... I'm not up to your quality yet for sure but I'm getting there.. So my question is... Do all 30 min epoxy's react the same ?... I would mix and right away brush on... the results were always hit or miss... On curing ...Funny thing though.. My last batch before I hit the road had some bad ones that I did not sell... Left them on my turner... I came home 4 months later and they were cured... LOL.. Learned something there that they WILL cure given enough time. So I should wait like 8 min ? before I brush ? I only use 1 coat on my plastic lures... Any help would be great... I'm digging your work my man
I haven't worked with 30 minute epoxy too much, but its the same concept as another other epoxy. My advice would be get the best 30 minute epoxy you can get. or even try something like this , This is amazing clear cast quick coat (see link i've attached below) . (i use the original amazing clear cast, which take about 24 hours to cure) this "quick coat" amazing clear cast claims its fully cured in as little as 4 hours, which tells me its probably relatively similar to 30 minute epoxy. And if i had to guess , id say it will give u 5 times as nice of a finish as any 30 minute epoxy you can buy from a hardware store or craft store. Biggest things for me with having the drying be consistent is 1. always mixing it up really really well. 2. Humidity ( probably the biggest factor for getting baits cured properly. That and temperature.) if your curing them in a relatively normal temperature like in your house, then id say get a dehumidifier and when ever you have baits drying run that sucker on high the entire time. Your baits will dry twice as quick and twice as hard. I absolutely CANNOT epoxy baits and let them dry in my house without running a dehumidifier. they will take FOREVER to cure completely and in some instances will even still be softish to the touch a day later. once i started running the dehumidifier i never had that problem ever again. Hope this helps! -DJ www.alumilite.com/products/resins/amazing-quick-coat/
either one is fine. I usually use high, just make sure to keep it moving quickly. You want to pop any bubbles. not thin the epoxy out so much that its running off before you can get it to the drying rack.
Hey dj, I have a complete hack question. I have a mike bucca bull shad that I used permanent marker on (I’m a complete hack) that I actually caught a 46-48 tiger musky on(my biggest musky by a lot). Is there a spray coating I can spray on to somewhat protect the coloring? Your baits are absolutely amazing, hope you and Matt had/have a good musky tournament.
Patrick Fahie thanks brotha! And yes there is, here is the link to the stuff I would use. Just make sure to tape off ur joints so they don’t lock up on ya haha www.denniskirk.com/kbs-coatings/gloss-clear-diamond-finish-top-coat-8114.p314610.prd/314610.sku
Hey mate wondering if you’ve used the regular amazing clear cast not the plus and would it yellow or still be okay? Very hard to find the plus in Nz, cheers dude wicked vid 👌🏻
i used the regular 90% of the time ive been making baits. and honestly i kinda like the regular better than the plus. Both work great, dont yellow and get nice and hard!
Lil Mock I buy the dowels in long sections from Home Depot. cut them to length and either screw my clamps to them or cut a slit for a screw or eyelet in them then I epoxy them into the dowels so they are solid. Pretty easy to do but it does take some time to make 100 of them like I have haha.
Sorry more questions, hope they are not giving away your secrets. How did you get the holographic tape on and then paint over it? Do u need to coat the tape with anything. Best lures ever
I just bought some cheap ones off Amazon. Just google “pillow back bearing (shaft size your using). Any of them will work and honestly they are not necessarily needed. But they do help for a smoother rotation.
Scared a subscribe out of me with that curse. Seriously though, awesome info for a new bait maker. I use KBS on the small crankbaits but needed some help on the bigger hand carved musky lures. Thanks!
Sorry for the late reply, and the cuss word. My time in the Military and owning a trucking company have been tough on my vocab lol. Sometimes my Military mouth overtakes my Christian mind.
my heat gun is simply on or off. the temp is not extremely important. keeping the heat gun moving and not hitting a single spot for more then a second at a time or so is the most important part. you wanna thin the epoxy and pop the bubbles.but not burn it
if you are talking wooden baits with a little bit of weight to them, i usually do 2 base coats of epoxy, one dry i scum epoxy and then paint. Then 3 finish coats of epoxy. For stuff like plastic little bass crank baits id recommend using something lighter like Alumilite UV or Diamond clear coat. Hope that helps!
I sealed them with sanding sealer. ( I will link it at the end of this comment) I would pour the sanding sealer into a larger container and let the baits soak for a minute or less. then hand them to dry. then lightly sand the dried sealed baits before doing the base coats of epoxy. once the base coats of epoxy is done and dry scuff the baits with scotch brite. clean with Windex or what ever works. Paint and do your finish coats of epoxy and you are good to go. The sealing coat is simply to prevent any water absorption from happening in the wood in the case the epoxy gets cracked or through the eyelets. Hope this helps! DJ www.amazon.com/Minwax-657000000-Water-Based-Sanding-Sealer/dp/B004Y6TTKI/ref=asc_df_B004Y6TTKI?tag=bngsmtphsnus-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=80814222102136&hvnetw=s&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4584413749812196&th=1
@@vectorponder yes it soaks in much better than a superglue. and makes its sealed to outside moisture. not exactly harder. thats what the base coat of epoxy are for.
Colton Holler main reason is because those are cheap. And I get one use per brush. I could use a larger more expensive brush and clean it with acetone afterwards, I’ve done it before . But it’s a pain and they still don’t last very long.
No problem bud! And honestly I have not checked , although it has no smell. The amount of baits I’ve done up to now, if it was harmful I’d be dead or at least have some cancer going on haha
You are not laying thick enough coats then, would be my guess... I’m sorry if ya disagree. But 2 coats of properly done alumillite can take a 45” muskie. And I don’t mean that to be disrespectful, I have 0 ties to them or any company . I’m simply speaking from experience and what I’ve seen. But by all means my friend use what works best for you. I’m not the worlds best bait builder and everyone has things that work for them. Also environment can hinder outcomes of epoxy . My environment IE humidity , temp, so on could work well for this epoxy and yours could possibly not. Not gonna knock KBS, Iots of people love it. But I’ve personally never used another clear coat that works like Alumillite. And withstands what I’ve put my baits through. But again, use what works for u my dude. 🤙🤙
For example this video, this is a bait i simply epoxied to seal and test. No paint . Straight wood. Got eaten and barely had a scratch. I’m sure situations are diff. But as long as u seal your wood before you epoxy it I’ve always had good results. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-pfmTX6eOlHs.html
