Just bought this saw and was slightly confused by some of the features but this video has cleared everything up for me, especially the sacrificial rubber on the track. Thanks for taking the time to explain everything, excellent review.
Brilliant. Thank you so much. Just bought one today because I keep cutting wonky with a mini hand circular saw. The manual didn't help me but you've covered it all so well for me.
Purchased this saw today and instead of reading instructions I reviewed your video . This video gave me a good understanding of everything . Now I will read instructions to see if they have any more info that is essential . Looking forward to your after use video . I agree that the Allen key for blade change is better removed from cable as it makes access to turn knobs a bit more difficult . I have to look at rail adjustment knobs on base to get them snugged into best position . Thanks for upload .
I have just bought this saw and fitted a kitchen with it. It’s spot on. Not sure about the anti kick back leaver it’s a little annoying. I’m glad it’s there for safety. Overall I’m very impressed with it. It kept it sharpness after cutting through 40mm worktops and end panels etc. One of my better buys.
Great saw for the money. I just got myself 2 of them. Handy havin the extra 2 tracks for cuttin full sheets. First ones on the way out got over a year out of it so well happy with it
Fantastic video on this saw. Thank you so much for taking the time to explain everything in an easy to understand manner. I make these how to videos myself so I know how much time they take. Thanks again, Jimmy the mower 👍
I have just bought this saw and found the instructions confusing too much flicking through the instruction manual. This video really help me set up and use the saw for the first time. Very clear instruction... Thank you so, so much. :)
Biggest problem is the wobble, i placed 2 shims (0,15mm) on both sides of the pivot point, out of the box mine was not aligned correct, from base to blade and 90 degree was 88,5 degree. Great video m8, thanks!
The other knob on the saw base plate isn't a second anti kick back, it's a tilt hold like makita's. Pull knob up and twist when it's on the track when your cutting a bevel cut.
Brilliant mate thank you... Been looking at these Erbauer tools and so glad to see you do the track saw. Looks a good unit at the price... Ive milwaukee drills but nearly went for the Erbauer drills... Not sure if i will carry on with them cos will be out a fortune.... Please do a Mitre Saw review! Keep up the good work will be watching
A couple of things worth knowing. The depth setting has a flip stop on it which lets you set the depth with the saw down on the workpeice without the track, flipping the stop out of the way increase the cut depth to allow for the additional thickness of the track. In the base there are two grub screws which are the stops to set the blade at 90 degrees, these aren't necessarily set accurately out of the box and can move with time and vibration.
Thank you for your detailed review. I am debating myself if I buy this one or the Schepparch PL55 from Screwfix. I am not going to rip much, but to cut pieces those I cannot put through my Table Saw due to the space inside my Man Cave. Nevertheless, thank you for your review, as I believe *_Our World_* is a *_Shared Experience_* ... Remember, *_Life_* is *_Short_* so *_Live Long_* and *_Prosper_* ... 🖖 Cheers...
Hi There, just wondering what your follow up was on this after using it for awhile…did you find it still worth the money? I know if you “buy something cheap you buy it twice” Just wondering as I would like to have one that I could get a few years out of it. Would you recommend rather going for one for a little more money to get more life Span or is yours still going strong? Thank you for the feedback
Have you had any issues with the saw stopping? In theory there is plenty of power, but I've struggled to make cuts in ply without the saw grinding to a halt. Could this be to do with the anti-kickback device? I think the design of the front can has changed since you did your video
Hi no issues with binding. Can't see it being the anti kick back as that only prevents the saw being pushed backwards. Try slowing ur speed forward a little if that doesn't help I'd change the saw may be a fault
I've had this exact problem and as an amateur DIY'er thought it was something I was doing wrong - despite a few ruined cuts its good to know it wasn't me!
@@docsworld9707 Thanks. I’ve tried replacing the saw too. I bought the first saw from B&Q and returned it. Had to get a replacement from Screwfix at £10 higher cost. Should therefore be a different batch, but same thing happened. I removed the anti kick back device, which improved matters
Can I ask a question. The individual track is 700mm. A door is 762 wide. So the track doesn't fit to do a cross cut to height the door. If I use both tracks I have no where to clamp one end of the track it's in thin air. If I use one track I have to off set the track. Is this OK to use as the blade does not cut the back edge of the door until the saw is fully engaged on the track?
Hi I've not had a problem with standard size doors. The saw will run past the track a little to finish the cut as long as you keep half of tye saw I tye track. This is upto you obviously. You could just clamp a straight edge to the door and run the saw along it if your not happy to run it past a little or purchase a cheap 800 track from ebay.
Just bought one and the blade rubs the edge on one side, making it difficult to even plunge without catching the edge. Haven’t dared turn it on. Is there a way of adjusting the blade alignment? Or should i return it?
I trimmed mine by joining the 2 rails together and plunging the saw approximately half way along the length of the first rail and trimming to near the end of the 2nd rail. Be careful not to get too close to the end because the saw will run off line if you do. Then separate the rails and reverse them so rail 2 becomes rail 1 and vice versa and reconnect the rails together. You will see that the rubber is trimmed along the whole length except for where the 2 rails are connected. Plunge your saw halfway along rail 1 and trim to halfway along rail 2. The rubber strip is now trimmed the whole length of each rail. It possibly sounds more complicated than it is but in practise it takes about 5 minutes to do.
mine burnt out after two years of occasional use. motor not strong enough for prolonged w/top cutting may be ok on thinner materials, other than the motor was very useful bit of kit
This video is wrong , sorry m8 you only connected the tacks by one conector, you use both one goes underneath in the clamping groves ( since your never going to use the clamps in the center of the track there is room) PS this is the old version of the tracks for the same saw , the new version has a second plastic conector that goes at the front edge of the track its a clear plastic ""wedge"" its a terrible fit and its why i watched this video but your saw does not have it ( 2 year old video at my time of watching it) they have changed the design slightly.
The video was not an instructional one on how to use the saw and rail. It was a review of my own personal opinion of it. Yes the two connectors are to be used but any competent user would know this. Sorry but your wrong by comparing an older model with your own which is obviously a newer one. Thanks for the comments though
