Ercoupe Aircraft Annual Inspection 

Ha, I left a hole in the story there, oh dear. I actually bought a starter off eBay, with a perfectly serviceable mounting plate. Then I got two new $15 bolts from Spruce, and a new seal. Good question!

James Good - I know aircraft are expensive but Helicoils shouldn’t ever be allowed and an aircraft even for a starter mount. It’s ok for a plug hole on a VW Bug! That was my first install! Great question.

I think all aircraft owners should be involved with their annuals and not just calling in an inspector! Grate job. I use cloth tie bags for fasteners and tie them to each panel or aircraft section. You can’t kick them over on the ground or bench. Also you can mark the flap piece attached to the bag to identify where the parts go! Cheap too! Keep an eye on the lower push rod tubes you will be changing them next. Cheers James...

@@MrWATCHthisWAY A proper Helicoil repair is certainly stronger than the original aluminum.

Kenny Phillips - it’s on standard temperature materials. But with different coefficient materials and experiencing high temps and add in vibrations they are not for ever application. For a starter housing it should be ok. But it’s only temporary in an aircraft when constantly removing the bolt and should be replaced under proper maintenance especially for a starter plate access point coils tend to loosen over repeated bolt removal applications. One A&P’s opinion.

@Zeke and Opie - are you looking to purchase one?

Hey John, thank you! It's a clever little machine, for sure.

Merry Christmas!

We love both of them!

That's great to hear! I would love to see your build. Let me know if you need any particular pics. ercoupetv@jamesgood.com for email.

Thank you very much, Dannie! I appreciate the note.

Pretty sure that's a Chevy Nomad, based on the chrome strips on the back. Not certain of the year, though.

Ha! Thank you, Terry.

Thanks for the tip, Gino.

Thanks, Douglas. I will get a visual on that, and make sure that's on the list for next year.

Thanks, Steve.

I'm lucky to have true professionals around me!

Thanks, Smitty! Yes, simplicity is key to these aero engines. Redundancy as well. Doesn't catch everything, but I'm sure it helps.

@@JamesGood - Hear hear - I agree!

Hey Jaylen, was nice to talk!

Sounds like a valid point on the 5-second thing. I'll try and remember to do that! I don't polish it enough, maybe once a year, maybe 1/4 at a time. Not sure about high-temp nuts on the oil tank; I've never touched them, yet.

Hey Chris, no not too much use out of the overalls. They also get washed fairly regularly! Doug's wagon is a '56 Chevy Nomad.

Haha - was just funning you about the overalls! Can't remember the Nomad but certainly some likeness to an early Mercury from 50's. Love the old classics. Best to you and Dianne. :)

Glad you enjoyed! That's a good point you make. I'll have another look when I'm up the airport next, and also ask my IA's opinion. I think it's been like that for a long time, but always good to question these things!

It does have an O-200, yes. And thank you!

Thanks, Joe. Yes, that little cowl prop is very useful. How do you keep yours open? My IA and I are keeping a close eye on the engine right now. It's doing good, but we are weary of the field overhaul that was done about 800 hours ago. We're watching on the oil analysis to keep an eye on the internals. Everything checks good, but a 'factory overhaul' is coming up at some point....

Well, I have to use a bungee from one side over the top to the other side cowl, a PIB. I’d love to see a closeup of how that little “arm” is attached. Your compressions and oil use are very good, so I’d not get too excited unless oil analysts say otherwise. I do realize mine is a C85 so not exactly the same engine but similar. I’m alway picky about the cleanliness under the hood, it seems to reflect the overall frame of mind of how an owner takes care of their airplane. And you obviously do a great job. Love the vids a lot.

They have done in the past. I'll try and get them enthused again!

I can do something about that in a future video. Will put it on the menu!

Those were probably from the push rod tubes. They were fixed in a later annual when it was discovered that an exhaust valve was sticking, and we changed the number 1 cylinder for a new one. I don't think it's possible to fix all leaks from these engines, BTW!

Harold Wolfe, maybe? He just sold his last year. 2015 was when I started spending time up there, so you were a little before my time. Was Lee Ocker there then?

Lee was my Lt, then later in our career Maj while I was in, and boss while at the airport. Hope that 150 Aerobat isn't still sitting outside and corroding away. Like watching the scenery in your videos, miss that area, then landing at BAFB, my old stomping ground.

I need to learn these things from the masters, like Doug. An hour to two here and there in Doug's hangar is time very well spent!

@@JamesGood Hi, operated for many years a O200 engine in a CP301. Pls. verify your oil consumption, it seems impossible to me, but interesting anyhow.

Push rod tube leaks. They are apparently quite common on these engines. A few drips in a flight is not really significant; measurable quantities certainly would be.

@@JamesGood My Coupe, a 1950 G model, I have the Real Gasket Push rod tubes STC on mine, no more leaking push rod tubes

Hi Donald. N94805 is a 1948 E model. It originally had fabric covered wings, but they were 'metalized' in the 60's. I don't believe any Ercoupe's have fabric covered vertical surfaces, they were always metal.

James, ours was also the same year. We bought it with sever storm damage. We replaced the entire tail boom and built a new horizontal stabilizer. The vertical stabilizer parts were good. This was 45 years ago. It was sold in 1981 and now lives in Tennessee last we heard. When we restored it we recovered the wings with Fabric. I wish I could send photos but all I can do is send text through here. This was my senior year project at the Votech school in Salina, Kansas.

Hey Keith. I actually check them every few flights, I really have to keep that nose tyre exactly at the correct pressure. It's more prone to shimmy, if it gets away from the correct number. But yes, that was another thing I left out!

@@JamesGood I was looking at my tires (American English - LOL) the other day and can't find the pressure for the nose gear tire. I have a shimmy that I'm thinking is inflation more so than balance because it didn't have it a month ago. What TP do you use?

​@@randybranson1009​ Hey Randy, I use between 15-17 on mine. 16 is about the best for no shimmy on mine. What pressure is yours at?

@@JamesGood I think it's around 18-19 maybe (my guage is crappy)

Thank you, Gene!

I love that Nomad! So nice.

Mine is not LSA, so I need an IA sign off.

sorry > Barnstormers.com

Thanks, Larry!

I can understand that. I really want to put a new tube kit on there with spring seals.

Barry, I'm like you (I used to hang around C130s and C141s...they leaked on my ramp all the time). I hate the oil drips that lead to oil streaks in my Coupe. My IA says to deal with it..."ain't leaking, it ain't running". I'm with James, I want spring seals.

Aircraft Spruce are pretty quick, that's who I use for most things. Normally comes within a week.

Ya I noticed that also, so cool. Haven't seen one for ages.

Gary, I actually trained with Sunshine Flyers in Auburn, in my own Ercoupe. He would probably train in your Ercoupe.

Yep, those are where it's at. Very strong. They don't give those away, unfortunately. My kit I bought 20 years ago cost $500 back then. I can only imagine what they are now ...

John, All 8 plugs were replaced in Feb 2018, 230 hours ago. They were cleaned and rotated in 2019. I find it interesting that 2 of them were so much worse than the other 6. Any comment on that? From now on, I will be removing them and checking every 50 hours, when I change my oil. BTW, as can be seen in the video, I only reused the very clean looking ones that came off the top. I put 4 brand new ones into the bottom positions.

The biggest issue I see is that you are running Champion plugs. A Few years ago, they outsourced their component manufacturing to China and subsequently their quality control went into the toilet. The primary issue is the center resistor (suppressor). Ideally, this resistor should have a nominal value of 2500 ohms +/- 1000 ohms measured from the well of the plug to the center electrode. With Champion plugs, this resistance can vary from 0 (leading to radio noise and increased electrode wear) to 1M + ohms (leading to arcing damage in the magneto). Anytime a Champion plug comes off, it should be checked with a multimeter. Discard any plug with resistance below 600ohms and above 5000ohms. The typical plug “bomb” tester will still fire a plug with resistance outside of the recommended values, so be sure to check resistance. Or better yet, buy a set of Tempest plugs. Their massive electrode plugs have much better resistance stability over the operating temperatures of the engine and they are cheaper than champion’s crappy plugs.

Rotate your plugs top to bottom to even out the electrode wear.

John Van Camp Thank you for your plug explanation, he did not show the end of one of the new plugs. I was wondering if the center started out oblong or it wore away.

@@fattyman9133 Why would the bottom ones wear more? Any idea? I can't think why that is? More oil on them? Lead deposits?

Why not, Kai?

@@JamesGood well aside from time and money I’m worried all the work I’ve done to it will be rejected, the more I’ve been seeing in this hobby it seems like only IA’s or ect’s can do the work so that’s my worry and I have been teaching myself entirely and I just don’t know if they will accept any of it because I’m willing to admit I know almost 0about airplanes ✈️ work on cars and am an industrial tech

That's true. I'll try and do a more complete coverage for the next one! And funnily enough, I currently have a slow puncture on my nose wheel, so I have a new inner tube on it's way to me right now.

If you're offering... :) I've always been wary of electric screwdrivers on the aircraft, but I'm coming around to the idea. I should probably invest in one.

@@JamesGood I prefer to break fasteners loose manually, then power them out. On tightening, gently running them in just snug with power, then manually tighten to completion.

Factory did one, gained about 10 mph in cruise-alas ran out of $$.

Port is to the Left......

Hi Cessna. Yes, I understand the list of things I can do as preventative maintenance. I do my own oil changes, spark plugs, tires, etc. My IA is super awesome, and I just like to involve him (and learn from him) as much as I can. I shudder to think of the time when he stops working at the airport.

Indeed... as owner /operator he can remove ANYTHING... but he has to have the IA present to put things back togeather... also... as to modifying the engine... one must have the manufactures approval... while 43.13 allows a lot of leeway... if you go modifying anything... you need manufactures approval... and it goes into the log book as part of the work performed... Remember all work must be approved by the grand aukie thumper... (administrator) or the manufacture... those are the only two who really authorize work to be perfromed... we IA's and inspector are just field reps.. so to speak... that are deligated the power to return aircraft to service if and when the work performed is to the approved standards... Our job is to keep YOU alive and safe... and not a case of attitude and power... we hate to see people crash and burn.. kinda thing.. as most of us too enjoy the flying... I have had a lot of owners IAs just put... gave the aircraft a 100 hr /annual inspection... atttt that is not good enough.. i.e the first question I ask as a inspector is... oh you didn't have to do any work on the plane... I see you only have the compression no's... amazing no other parts needed or work done... really??? SO indeed you need to put what was found.. what work was accomplished... what was approved... and what was inspected IN the logbook or a related work order No. before return to service /flight.... anything less and its not a complete annual... after all what the law people want to see is what YOU did... we want to see the work performed... to make the aircraft airworthy as in the FARs... and ....you can only make the aircraft as good as or better than the manufactured .... as mechanics and owners .. you may not modify it..to your liking... and with a plane this old... because the manufacture is no longer around... if you modify it you have to again do more paperwork... submit it and get approval from the FAA in the form of 337 MAJOR REPAIR & ALTERATION (Airframe, Powerplant, Propeller, or Appliance) before return to service/flight. So lots to be conserned about... in addition anything added such as a new radio or inst. you must also make the statement that it was found to conform (weight and balance)and not interfear with other parts systems of the plane or its operation... ... after all pilots that jump in... hate mechanical suprises... that put them into the trees... So don't look at the annual as a "I have to do it because the regs say so" remember the fAR's and AD's are written in blood... someone died ... and they are their to keep you safe and alive... Something I noticed also.... is the altimeter was bouncing around... you should have noted that to the IA and have it removed and tested for hysteresis... play in the readings.. by a certified inst shop.... they are not supposed to be jumping around 100 ft or more... Just some other observations.... that will keep ya safe and long life... as you have fun with the plane... be safe...

Hey John. The original ERCO machines were all 'Ercoupe's. Mine was made by Sanders, in the original factory, and was also an Ercoupe. When Forney bought the rights in '55, they changed the name to Aircoupe. I think both ways of pronunciation are acceptable to most people!

To many young pilots, it's not an Ercoupe,or Aircoupe, it's a What the heck is that?

True, Douglas!

Thanks for the comment. I'm about the take the plugs off again, so will see if I can see what you mean about the ignition wires twisting. Thanks. Lots of the annual left out, it's very hard to document and do work at the same time, plus other things were done by my IA when I wasn't there. The video is intended to be entertainment, not a how-to or educational resource! As an owner/operator, there's a lot I can do without my IA, I follow those rules carefully. I will be checking the the right gear wobble.

@@JamesGood You are right James

Port is Left..... Nice try though.

And port and starboard remain the same whether you look toward the nose or the tail.

I think port and starboard seem appropriate, more exact than left and right. Lots of nautical terms in aviation... Left and right is quicker, and less confused, when talking to ATC. I've only just learned which side port/starboard are, I'm going to use them now, even if it don't strictly have to!

@@JamesGood when I was learning nautical (Dad made us use the correct nautical terms as kids), the way I remembered which was which is that Port is 4 letters...so is left. Right has more letters, so does starboard. Heehee.

@@randybranson1009 ha! I know which wing light is red (it's on my left), and port=red like port wine.

Your statement may be true, not sure it's scary though. A little sad (innovation, refinement, technology stopped/slowed down). One thing that's good about this old tech, is that nearly every single part can be easily repaired. Unlike my modern car. Mixed blessings, I guess.

@@JamesGood That's why my "toy" is a '65 Porsche 356C. There isn't anything on it that I can't repair myself, including a complete engine rebuild a few years ago. Not so on my more modern vehicles.

I think the tire manufacturer says 'no shine compounds'. Not sure how real the risk is. I've never used one, although you are right, they would look better...

What my wife insists and what I really do are two different things. I just keep them wiped off clean but at the same time I'm really checking for nicks or gouges from soft field landings.

Properly calibrated (easy to do) why would it bother you?

@@UncleKennysPlace because they stay in calibration for about 10 minutes. Run a beam torque wrench on half a dozen bolts, put it back in its container in your toolbox then open and close the drawer five or six times. Now go back and check how close the torque values are.