ESS Supercharger Install and Review 

That's awesome that you are there in AZ where they are made. The power really shows the capability of the blower. It is a great kit and that's cool that you have had it for a while with no issues. Thanks for the comment.

I have the same set up as you . I have my car already for like 7 months was purchased from the original tuner for ess tuning . I think my car was the g3 try out car . How many mpg u gething n what soark plug gap u using ? I have 1200cc injectors . Im trying to go stock now do to my i want to daily drive now

@@jesusm4 that's awesome man. I'm still running 1000cc injectors on my G3. Only getting 8.8 average mpg, sucks. That's E85 life for ya. Gap is .44 for the plugs fyi.

@@BoostJunkieMedia If you don’t mind what brand oil filler cap do you have

Hey man, I’m currently running G3 kit on my 2021 5.0. Its got FIC 1000cc injectors, FBP and the 120mm pulley tuned for 91 with boostane. Car doesn’t feel a whole lot faster & definitely not like 720whp or even close to it.. kinda frustrated, anyway I can get more power out of the kit without having to run E85 or any big upgrades??

You will love it. It loves RPM for sure. Coming from the PD world of blowers they feel pretty strong even hitting it at 3000 rpm, the centri though likes 5000 rpm on up which makes sense based on their boost curve.

I ordered mine Monday hopefully it get here soon 😁

@@nick5pointoh565 That's awesome. Mine was 16 days from the day I ordered it when it arrived.

@zander13 I had a feeling you would go centri didn't think it would be ess... I'm excited to see that journey. I'm going to order one soon.

@@pistolgrip500 😉🙏🙏

That sounds killer man. Hope it all goes well for you. If you do a video on it or anything send me a link on the progress.

Thanks. i got it from here. www.c-f-m.com/performanceparts/pc/Valve-Cover-Breathers-c744.htm

Cars have come a long way with all forms of forced induction and fuel injection. It's incredible.

Yes the UPR catch can has a one way valve so that the crankcase does not get pressurized with boost. I also run the breather on the oil fill neck and that breather has a check ball that will allow crankcase pressure out under boost but not suck unmetered air in under vacuum. A good vented non boosted crankcase is always a good thing.

@@BoostJunkieMedia thank you

The intercooler upgrade is the main reason to go with the G3 in my opinion unless you are looking to go E85 and make 800 HP + one day.

@@BoostJunkieMedia thanks for the reply man! I ended up buying the G3 with the G4 larger inter cooler, FIC 1000 injectors and a FBP haha so far pretty happy with it kit 😂

This is the same setup I used on my whipple 2015 for over 4 years. When I sold the car I took the blower off and sold it and it was completely clean with zero oil in the intake tract/head unit. The passenger side on these cars is the one that is really bad about sucking oil out of the top of the heads. I run the CSS from UPR on the drive side which is a separator so it doesn't pull oil into the suction side of the supercharger. The air is allowed to get out but any oil residue stays in the motor. If you have a part number of the UPR kit you are talking about I'd love to take a look but I've had no issues running this setup in well over 4 years of boosted applications. Thanks for the comment, I am always looking for ways to improve the setup so I appreciate the info.

@@BoostJunkieMedia I run UPR Dual Valve Catch Can (with checkvalves) and the UPR crankcase oil cap breather you have on the passenger side.

No you do not. The only brace you remove temporarily is the bumper support. Once the intercooler is in the bumper support goes back.

Mine was one of the early kits and only the impeller was a selectable option and I got the standard impeller. There was no option for the gear cut at that time. Whatever the standard option is for the gear cut is what mine is I am sure.

I don't think I mentioned it so thanks for the question. This is the standard quiet gear set, not the straight cut but as you can hear in the video you can definitely hear a whistle from the BOV pretty much at all times. Its not obnoxious but there is definitely some whistle/whine.

@@BoostJunkieMedia yea it sounds really good. Trying to make up my mind. Thanks

These are the stock quieter gears. The BOV is pretty noisy with a distinct whistle so it’s still pretty loud.

Thats awesome. You’ll love it. Going to be a rocket ship in a light weight fox for sure.

Sorry for the late response. Yes it probably is possible but I don't like it looks. I prefer to see the engine. I am still on the OEM drive shaft yes.

I’m sure it’s possible that this could happen on any kit. Just have to be sure when installing the tubes to keep them away from metal parts or isolate them. I have not had this issue so far.

Also do I need 2 catch cans? I have one on the passenger side but was thinking about getting for the drivers side as well? And have you ever heard of MMR head cooling unit for the #7 and #8 cylinder heads? I have read forums of people having issues with those heads and this kit is supposed to help with that. It’s like $150-$200 I’m thinking of getting it.

You can run 2 catch cans if you want it won’t hurt anything. My setup is using a CSS or clean side separator on the driver side with a catch can on the passenger side. This seems to work very well as it’s the same setup I had on my 2015 whipple car with no issues and the inside of the whipple was pristine when I pulled it off to sell it. I think I’ve heard of the cylinder head cooling thing you are talking about however, I don’t really feel that it is super necessary. It probably really depends on what you are going to do with the car. If you are going to be out racing it and beating on it and getting it really hot then something like that probably could be a good thing. I never had an issue on my gen two car with the Whipple or on this gen three car so far as far as cooling. I did change to 170° thermostat though and the tune from Palm Beach Dyno adjusts the temperature that the fans come on to match the thermostat.

Yes basic hand tools will be fine. Just take your time and follow the manual and video that came on the thumb drive.

I think your plan sounds like a pretty good one. I would verify with a tuner that you will be okay with the LU47 injectors at that power level but you would probably be fine with the BAP. You should absolutely be okay with 93 and probably 91 if you just let Lund know so they can adjust your timing accordingly for the lower octane. As far as the cutting the connector my goal when installing this kit was to make it 100% reversible so I did not want to cut that connector off. The kit comes with a white vacuum adapter that you use at that location to shove the rubber hose on each end to connect the rubber hoses. I took that vacuum adapter and shaved it down so that it created a ridge on the adapter in just the right spot. This way the vacuum adapter will fit into the factory push lock connector and the little gripper piece inside grabs onto that ridge that I shaved down on the adapter. It worked very well and if you don't want to cut that off I recommend doing something similar. If that doesn't help or make sense I can do another short video on that part exactly and show what I did. Let me know if that would be helpful. Thanks for the great questions and comments and thanks for watching and good luck with the install.

@@BoostJunkieMedia thanks for the reply, appreciate it a lot. I will check with lund, i think i should be okay. and yes that’s exactly what i want to do, have something where i can reverse it completely to stock if need be, i sorta understand what you’re saying, i’m sure if i had it in front of me i would grasp it more, but yes if you could make a video on that, i would appreciate that so much, no rush obviously. i’m sure others will find use of that too cause the directions are kinda vague on the specific part, thank you man

@@coyoteaustin17 you can get 700-800 whp on LU47’s because of the Gen 3 direct injection 👍🏻 you’ll be fine with those

@@defi5 yea i hear they tune better too compared to a deatschwerks 95 or whatever else,

@@coyoteaustin17 I ordered a G2 kit a couple weeks ago I can’t wait. I’m doing OPG and crank sprocket too I’m shooting for 700 whp on 93 I’ll probably be a little higher

Here is the one that I purchased and I added the check valve. www.uprproducts.com/18-22-mustang-gt-plug-n-play-sc-oil-catch-can-separator/ This is the valve cover breather but depending on the year of your car if its an 18+ the oil filler neck extension piece needs to be removed. When you remove it a piece on the filler tube can break off and fall into the filler neck so you need to be very careful. I felt comfortable doing it but just a warning. www.c-f-m.com/performanceparts/pc/CFM-Baffled-Billet-Valve-Cover-Breather-Kit-for-2019-2020-Mustang-Bullitt-847p6599.htm

Yes I can do a video and show that part. I will try to explain it here though. I tee'd into the vacuum line that goes to the blow off valve by the supercharger. That line runs up and follows the factory hood release cable. It comes back behind the booster and then down the firewall and goes into the hole where the sound tube was. I took the black plug that was in that hole and drilled a small hole in it just big enough for the vacuum tube to fit through. Once the vacuum line is inside the car I just zip tied the P3 gauge controller where the vacuum nipple is up above the pedal area and ran that vacuum line to that nipple. I connected it and used a zip tie to make sure that vacuum line is secure. Hopefully that makes sense but I can show it on video. I will do another video showing this setup as well as how I did not have to cut off the factory quick disconnect fitting near the throttle body. Thanks for the great question and good luck on your install.

I’m running the ID 1050x injectors on my setup. They have worked great so far.

I do not have long tubes on the car.

I did not no.

One of the videos on my channel is a stream of the actual install. It’s very self explanatory and they send a video that was already done of the install. Another full explanation of every step would be redundant and a waste of time.

I am running ID 1050X injectors and a Lethal Performance BAP.

@@BoostJunkieMedia thanks man and what programer u used for the kit ? Cus the one i looked dosent came with one

I’m using the hptuners RTD device with palm beach doing the tuning.

@@BoostJunkieMedia thanks man im on the way to supercharge my 18 too and looking to do something like yours

Awesome, good luck with it. You will love it for sure.

Thank you for the comment. Style of blower has nothing to do with it. I’ve got experience installing whipple, Paxton and now ESS and I’m merely sharing my thoughts on the the kits. As I said bang for buck, ESS can’t be beat and I never said stay away because the kit is bad. I did however say that form and fitment of the whipple is unmatched. The area on the passenger side where the silicone tube slides through, there is a lot of crap right there like an A/C line and a ECU connector snd the connector for the radiator fans. The tubing sits pretty much right on top of the first two items and the fan connector has to be moved so the tubing can even fit. The tubing sitting on top of those items may not cause an issue now but 2, 3, or 4 years down the road who knows if it will or not. These are the items I’m talking about. Nothing on the whipple kits are like this where items are jammed into one another.

@@BoostJunkieMedia I've been a mechanic for over 20 years mate. The style of blower has everything to do with it. Roots don't need cooler piping to run around the bay for a front mount, as an example, just significantly smaller coolant lines for the heat exchanger at the front. To compare a roots install vs a centrifugal as you referrenced is comparing apples an oranges. At the end of the day, you have a fantastic costing kit, with the brand getting great reviews, and you're getting great numbers. I've seen installs with these where other owners have trimmed their air damn pieces to fit around the piping, as their choice. I hope at the end of the day, the kit serves you well, and that you enjoy every mile of that extra boost.

@@pheonixfps9248 Thank you for the good comments. I appreciate the perspective. I too have been working on cars and racing for 20 years and I just see it differently and we will have to agree to disagree on some small points. I do agree though for the money it is a good kit and does make good numbers. I never said otherwise. Thanks again!

I believe UPR sells them now. It helps alleviate crankcase pressure due to ring blow by in a boosted application. You can also run a vented dual inlet catch can and do the same thing. I will be making a new video on that this week.