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etrailer | Curt T-Connector Vehicle Wiring Harness Installation - 2020 Jeep Renegade 

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Hi there, Jeep owners. Today on your 2020 Jeep Renegade, we're going to be taking a look at and showing you how to install CURT's four-pole vehicle wiring harness. And this is what our wiring harness looks like when it's installed. That's right. You can't even tell that it's there because this harness is designed to live inside the vehicle. So we keep it stored inside of our storage compartment in the back.
And when we're ready to use it, we can just drape it down over the back. And it will pinch in between our weatherstripping, holding it in place. The only thing you want to avoid is the striker here, because the weatherstripping is not going to damage it, but the striker could potentially.We now have our four-pole end outside the vehicle. That's going to provide us with all of the necessary lighting for our trailer, which includes our left turn signal, right turn signal, tail lamps, and brake lamps, ensuring people behind you know your intentions when you're going down the road and keeping you DOT compliant and it's legal in all states. What I like about this harness is that it's custom designed for our Renegade here.
So it plugs directly in line behind our factory tail lights. And it has a module in line with that harness that comes included with it. It's made onto it, and it uses the module to monitor the lights that goes to each of our taillight assemblies. And in the module, we'll see what signal it was and reproduce that signal and send it out to our four-pole. What's nice about that is that if there's any faults on our trailer, our module can detect those faults and shut down the circuit.And in the event that it is unable to shut down the circuit in time.
It has its own dedicated power circuit with the fuse. It'll just open up that fuse and not affect any of the wiring on your Jeep. You can then repair your trailer and replace the fuse for your module, and you're back up and running again. Whether it be in custom fit for our vehicle, it's fairly easy to install. We do have to remove a few panels from the back of our vehicle here to access the connectors we need, but it shouldn't go relatively quickly.
Why don't you follow along with me so you can have the confidence to do it at homeWe'll begin our installation here at the back of the vehicle by pulling out any mats and trays that you've got there, coverings here. We'll then remove both of our cargo hooks, put the hook up and then you can pop it up from this side, you'll see a little notch that your screwdriver will fit in and that'll go underneath of it and pop it up. And then we'll remove the torque's bolt using a T40 torque socket. There's one just like this. On the other side, we're also going to take that out. On the inside of our panel now, just as we roll around on the inside, there's going to be three screws we'll take out with a Phillips screwdriver, one on each side and one in the middle.We can then grab our paneling and just pull upward on it. We're just going to work our way down and then we'll lift the panel out and set it aside. If any of the clips stay behind, you can take your trim panel tool or a screwdriver and get up underneath of those. And this is just going to slide right back in place. We'll then need to remove our upper panel here. Located up here, you'll have a small cover. We'll pop that out with our screwdriver. I'm just going to pop this little plastic piece out right here. Just get behind it and then just pop out of there. Well, then take a five millimeter Allen key to remove the bolt located behind the cupboard.If the bolt stays in there, it's not a huge deal. If you can fish it out, great. If not, you can always grab it later. We'll then pull our weatherstripping back and we can go ahead and pull it back all the way down because we are going to be having to pull this bottom panel out some. But before we can even remove part of the bottom panel to access our connector, the top one here has to come out because it's hiding some fasteners. So we're just going to start pulling it away. I like to use the trim panel tool to assist me, to make sure I can pry at the furthest point in to ensure that nothing breaks and we get it to pop out.Now that we've got this pulled out some, we only needed to be pulled out far enough to where we can actually get our wires down and fed out of it because we can actually access the connector through the door located here. It's just that once you get to it from this door here, we've got no way to route the wires. That's why we had to take our panels loose. If we look just inside of this opening, you'll see right here is our connector wire. So we're ju

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16 окт 2024

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Комментарии : 2   
@stevenbillington1753
@stevenbillington1753 6 месяцев назад
Great video! Here’s a few things I did different for future viewers, total install took me like ten minutes. 1) I didn’t remove any of the interior side panels or weather stripping. I removed the base plate where those cargo hooks are and then simply fished the trailer wiring up both sides behind the panel. There is a ton of room there, probably the easiest wires I have ever fished in my life. 2) instead of drilling a hole in the floor of the trunk and running a power wire up under the hood I simply installed a fuse tap in the fuse box right there where the trailer wire grounded too. Super simple changes that save a lot of time.
@etrailer
@etrailer 6 месяцев назад
We definitely agree with your first point, however we don't recommend making that power connection anywhere other than at the positive battery terminal. Getting power from anywhere else can leave your vehicle's electrical system vulnerable to any short circuits that might occur in the trailer wiring. Which would be bad! www.etrailer.com/Custom-Fit-Vehicle-Wiring/CURT/C56274.html