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etrailer | Trailer Wiring Harness Installation - 2010 Toyota RAV4 

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Today on our 2010 Toyota RAV4, we'll be installing the Curt T-Connector with the Vehicle Wiring Harness 4-Flat Trailer connector part number C56165. Now to begin our install, we'll go ahead and open up the rear door. We'll remove the rear cargo cover and the rear cargo door. Next we'll remove the rear threshold. We'll use a flat blade screwdriver a trim panel tool to pop the panel up, releasing the fasteners underneath. Then we'll go ahead and remove the secondary cargo cover.
Once we removed that cargo cover, we need to remove the cargo tray. There are a total of 4 fasteners that will need to be removed. Now we'll move behind the tail light assembly. We'll remove the 4th panel and the trim panel. We need to remove the fasteners that secure the side panels. To do that, there are multiple fasteners we'll simply start removing them.
We'll also need to remove the rear cargo hook. Once we have the fasteners and cargo hook out, we can pull the panel out. Here we can gain access to the wiring to the access panel. We'll go ahead and separate the manufacturer's connector. Now we've gained access to our wiring. We're going to go ahead and take the 4-pole connector and the red and green wire connector and route them behind the paneling over towards the passenger side.
Next, I'll take the yellow wire connector, matching the T-connector up with the manufactured wiring and plugging it into the wiring harness on one side and the tail light assembly on the other. Next, we'll take the white wire with the pre-attached ring terminal. This will be the ground wire for our converter box and 4-pole harness. We're going to go ahead and route it behind the paneling towards the threshold. We'll use a self-tapping screw provided with our install kit. Go ahead and secure it now.
Now I'll move over to the passenger side and remove the necessary fasteners so that we can route our wiring behind the passenger side tail light assembly. Now we have the panel free, we'll go ahead and take our T-connector, route it behind the paneling and up behind the tail light assembly. Again, we'll separate the manufacturer's connectors and plug in line with the manufacturer's wiring. Now with our wiring installed, we'll go ahead and reinstall our paneling and fasteners. Now once you have your wiring in place, we can go ahead and use the zip ties provided with our install kit to secure it as necessary, behind the paneling. Now our 4-pole harness will stay here in the rear cargo area and we can reinstall the rear threshold. Here on the driver side, there's a manufacturer's grommet that we can route through. Moving underneath the vehicle, we'll use a utility knife to cut a small slice in the grommet and then run the extra length of wire provided with the install kit up to the grommet. Once we have it into the inside compartment, we'll go ahead and strip it back and add the yellow bud connector provided with our install kit. Next, we'll take the black wire that comes from the converter box, attach it to the other side of our bud connector and the key part connection clean from the dirt, dust, debris of moisture, we'll go ahead and wrap it up with some black electrical tape. Now we're ready to go ahead and mount our converter box. Before you mount the converter box, we're looking for a clean, flat surface, preferably sheet metal. To mount it, we'll use a 2-way adhesive provided with the install kit. We'll remove one side of the adhesive cover and attach it to the converter box. Remove the second side of the adhesive and attach the converter box here below the driver side tail light assembly. Once we find a good mounting location, we're firmly pressing it into place so it gets a good cohesive connection. Now once we've gone ahead and cleaned up our install look, we'll go ahead and reinstall the paneling and into your trim component. Next, we'll go back underneath the vehicle. We need to take the extra length of power wire that we've added to the converter box and route it underneath the vehicle and all the way up into the engine compartment. Keep in mind when routing any of your wires, there would be moving components, gearing and suspensions or excessive heat such as the exhaust. As we route our power wire, we'll also use the zip ties to secure it as necessary. Now once we move up into the engine compartment, we're going to route it towards the battery. I want to go ahead and check my length as I route it and note we're going to cut it a little short as we're going to add the inline fuse holder that's provided with our install kit. Check our length and strip back our power wire. We'll then go ahead and prepare the

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25 авг 2024

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Комментарии : 3   
@marshallohio5512
@marshallohio5512 4 года назад
Installation was straight forward for me. I ran the hot wire down the driver's side fender well behind splash panel. I then fed the hot wire through the lower door jam channel where pinch welds are. I continue running the hot wire up and over the driver's side rear tire well behind panels, and finally up through rear of the Rav4. I was able to finish all connections without removing all those panels within video. I ended up with a very clean and functional install. The install videos make the install of harness more work than needed, Sloppy way of running hot wire under Rav4.
@timt2268
@timt2268 4 года назад
I would like to run the connector under the vehicle like most installations. I don’t like the idea of running it through the door when I want to tow a trailer.
@marshallohio5512
@marshallohio5512 4 года назад
@@timt2268 No Worries, the way I ran the hot wire worked fine for me, but others might prefer a different way of choice. I made sure there was no wire chaffing with my wire install, and for some reason there was an issue, then reroute the wire a different way. All fine for now !! Cheers
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