What an unimaginably full life Doug Scott led. Thousands of children survived childhood mortality due to his lifelong work with CAN. A thoroughly good man. RIP
I love these old films.. So real so raw none of the bells whistles and drama of today.. When man just climbed and endured.. All respect to the sberpas true King's of the mountain
Gotta remember, no gortex, no plastic double boots at half the weight of leather. No modern lightweight oxygen systems, The sherpas back then moved loads up fixed ropes but NEVER Fixed the ropes as nowadays. A good effort.
@@Tommy2shoe811 Chris Bonington is a legendary climber; there were very few people qualified to lead an Everest expedition back in the 70's, he was one of them. Idk where you get the idea he's a moron; he was literally awarded Commander of the Order of the British Empire for this expedition.
It seems that this was the start of the circus. Barclays Bank International payed 400 porters and 100 Sherpas to get four drunk Brits to the summit and back. Two died and they called it a success? Modern travel agencies have a better rate than that and the tourists pay for themselves. Respect!
@@caravaggio31 Everest became a circus in 1978, with all the media hype surrounding Messner and Habeler. Now "everybody" wanted to climb Everest without supplemental oxygen, and a lot of tragedy followed. That is my opinion, and you can disagree all you want.
1:06:15 Peter Boardman. Seven years later Pete went back to Everest and tried to climb the north side of the mountain. He died on the way up. His body is still up there.
Petey was a skilled mountaineer and a talented writer. I love his book The Shining Mountain and i ve read it so many Times since my childhood years Rest in Peace,brother
Maybe , the mountain was less polluted and less explored. But I think I’d much prefer to have the modern equipment of today. it’s still an achievement today, I think permits must be limited though . Hopefully one day I’ll climb it , I’d like to climb from Tibet via the North. Maybe if I start training and saving now I can go in 15-20 years.
I am deeply impressed by the ability and fortitude of the Sherpa. Some of the greatest human beings on this earth without a doubt. I’ve been on minor expeditions around the world and have a small understanding of how harsh and hard life can become in extreme environments such as the desserts and mountains. They do it better than anyone. Brilliant stuff.
The expedition was very bittersweet. Although they fulfilled the task, they lost a brilliant cameraman Mick Burke, whose footages are used here too. The tragic story is told 1:06:40. To the bitter irony of fate, the story is told by Peter Boardman, who himself was to be killed on the same mountain 7 years later with another skilled cameraman Joe Tasker.
Mountaineering before Everest tourism despoiled the place. It was still relatively few actual mountaineers going on meaningful exploratory expeditions.
I've known mountaineers. A lot of them love to drink and seem to have an unusual superpower to drink while doing extremely hard things, on and off the mountain. Don't try it at home kids. I went to a memorial service for a mountaineer friend -death totally unrelated to mountaineering or alcohol. A story was told about how on an extreme and very cold trip the booze bottle got smashed. I guess it was in plastic or something because they still had it but mixed with broken glass. With classic inventiveness they strained it through a snotty mitten so they could drink it. Serious determination. Lol. He was a fun, incredibly playful,warm, loving and delightful guy. Not an egomaniac. Just wired differently but in a nice way. I'm not a mountaineer and never would be, but I have appreciated my contact with these "different animals" I've encountered. And I'm talking real mountaineers. Not ultra wealthy people who think they can play at being one without courting disaster.
The tobacco smoking is a stimulant first, a hunger suppressant second, and has a calming effect on the cortisol released through the fight or flight response to long term stress and adrenaline built up daily. The whiskey, is a suppressant designed to induce relaxation in your muscles and your mind which is in a constant state of alert, and helps to induce good sleep. It has been my experience in several high altitude mountain climbing expeditions over several continents. However it is not shared by every high altitude climbers.
I worked with a doctor (2004 - 2006) who had been on two Everest expeditions with Ranulph Fiennes. He wasn't a regular smoker but he would smoke as part of his pre Everest preparations. He said it raised the production of red cells, which improved oxygen carriage, very helpful to combat the effects of altitude. N.B. we were working on a Coronary Care Unit !
@@LadyPercy. Thank you for your obvious experience and knowledge into this anomaly! You are correct about the increase in red blood cells as that information is usually too far over most peoples heads. In my original comments I used 3 easily understood uses thag I had 1st hand experience with as a way for most people to understand why tobacco use was sometimes used by high alpine climbers and mountaineers! I very much appreciate you contributing your know and expertise to this rather unusual subject matter @Jacqueline Devonshire! I would be fascinated to sit down for a longer, deeper, and more detailed conversation with you to learn more about your experiences, knowledge and expertise, as you clearly have something to share and impart to others!
I’ve been learning English watching all Everest stories, and this guys accent is the best one I’ve ever heard. I also enjoy listening Messner, his German accent sounds fascinating. Probably this effect caused by the reason that they both are great climbers and very wise people
@@johnforealdoe8999 He has an English accent: specifically RP (received pronunciation), which is a well-spoken English accent from England, hence RP English accent. British accents are English, Welsh, Scottish, and Northern Irish; but they each sound completely different, so to say someone has a 'British accent' is a misnomer and makes no sense. Which 'British accent'? Is their 'British accent' English, Welsh, Scottish, or Northern Irish? Also, is the British person English, Welsh, Scottish, or Northern Irish? English = belonging to or relating to England, or its people: Englishwoman, Englishman. British = belonging to or relating to the United Kingdom, or to its people (English, Scottish, Welsh, and Northern Irish) or its culture. Great Britain = large (hence great) geographical island in the British Isles containing three small countries: England, Scotland, and Wales. United Kingdom = country, the kingdom consisting of four smaller countries: England, Wales, Scotland, and Northern Ireland. Englishwoman = me. Hope this helps. xx
It astounds me that these expeditions were ever successful, when one considers the quality of the clothes and equipment, and the weight of these items 46 years ago!
Really enjoyed this historic record, thank you. The accompanying book is excellent also, good to see both. It’s the first time I read it ( and watched this) since I summited the normal route myself in 2008, and I appreciate their achievements all the more!
Thank you for normal posts .really there's a fact checker here? Wtf .just watch or go away .really don't need the b.s lessons on ssherpas. It's not easy if rich or poor . B. S. Is the reality from the know it alls. Congrats all who attempt
Always amusing is the number of climbers on the British Everest expeditions who smoked. Don Whillins and Mick Burke come to mind. Certainly, there were others since the expedition manifest lists several hundred cartons. Not only for personal consumption but for barter as well.
If that were true, no pro mountaineers or Sherpas would die ,but in fact with the best equipment and circumstances they do in fact die climbing Everest. Be well✌️
I just read the entire book of the same name by Chris Bonington at my cabin , within one day. Took most of the day , but I was rapt. It's a very complete narrative of the expedition. Just starting the video, and it looks very true to form of the book. It's nice to see the original video that was shot. I'm looking forward to watching the entire video as I know the book was extremely informative, complete with several appendices giving a breakdown of absolutely everything from the type, brand and quantity of all gear used, reasons for individual team member selection, transportation, communication and even the contents of their daily rations. As usual, there is a bit more of a complete telling /explanation of the whole process/story. This video surely will be a welcome addition to my understanding of this expedition as I finished the book approximately 13 hrs ago. Some of the numbers vary significantly, but I guess that depends on the point of view of the person relating the story? Thanks for posting this video. Fabulous story Edit: read the book!
Ya it did. Some of them that knew him felt really bad and weren't sure what to do. All in all, I think they had to carry on because there was nothing they could do about it and they couldn't stop this huge expedition. Death is just a part of these journeys
@hello sweetheart There are 2 full pages about the incident, and the book is dedicated to him (and Mick Burke). The account mentions the large search operation for him; Doug found him and wept uncontrollably at his loss, (he was fond of the lad and had got to know him on a previous expedition and had also helped him carry his loads) and Chris also wept with Doug when he found him.
@@hellosweetheart3350Christ here we go ....maybe STFU already with your other savior complex.....they're not gods. And stop acting like anyone that ISNT is some monster Christ so sickening and WRONG.
But the book speaks in depth about the film crew being present. He even states that the filming was highly successful. Were you reading it with your eyes closed? 🤣*Jokes
@@upsidedahead Buddy, I wouldn't know. I read the book decades ago and I've read hundreds since. Not the kind of detail I would remember nor the thing that struck me most about the story.
Really enjoy watching anything Everest...always so fascinating! I've not seen this b4...great documentary... How is it that this was posted 8 mo ago & just now finding it?!🤔 Thank you for posting!
As a fact checker, I must point out that many of the older expeditions included climbers that were indeed wealthy. Climbers came from highly-educated backgrounds and wealthy families , which enabled them to climb many months out of each year around the globe.
@@icecreamforcrowhurst In the other video from 71 there were students that worked and schooled full time. One saved for 3 yrs to go. The expedition was only 500 then.
Kind of agree... I don’t think these “modern climbers” know how lucky they are... laders put up for them... ropes put there for them.. there tents put up for them, the list goes on... are you a mountain climber if you use ladders at every hurdle 🧐 and have everything done for you 👀
@Wyatt Judah I wish you'd keep your medal-worthy accomplishments to yourself. There's enough trolls phishing for our private information JUST because we didn't agree with them about something. Putting out information like you do is putting PEOPLE'S PERSONAL AND PHYSICAL SAFETY at risk - and I've told you this several TIMES BEFORE. But you don't give a 💩 do you.
Everest the hard way was the first mountaineering book I ever read and still a great read. I’d never seen the documentary however. Much of the film would have been shot by BBC cameraman Mick Burke who died whilst attempting to summit.
I'm the same way my dad was- I've gotta be in control. Avalanches, collapsing seracs, embolisms, freak storms. Who lives or dies is luck of the draw. I'd go nuts up there.
How much things have changed on The Mountain...Could you imagine having the whole hill all to yourself - just one expedition! And there's no one there in August/September. Now it's rotations throughout March, April and a summit push in early May. That is the norm now...and traffic jams. The Mountain was a different place in 1975.
He was amazing. One detail from the book left out of the film - it took two Sherpas just to carry the cigarettes he chain-smoked ... while front-pointing ... at extreme altitude. And the cigarettes weren't any "light", smooth blend with a filter, they were Gitanes, (or Gauloises), French for tar in a wrapper.
@@samaelcoral7297 Wow, i first didn't believe the first comment that it took two Sherpas to carry the cigarettes he chain-smoked but then a different person, you, talking about a different expedition giving cigarettes numbers that confirms it. I realize it's true. In a way that explains why he took a bigger risk to summit. I must have known that he was running life on the 'fast lane'.
Such a different time ..I got pictures of my pops hanging from a hammock on El Capitan smoking a joint...it was in 79 while my mom was at home pregnant with me
He did, but after the 82 try on the North east face when they lost Peter Boardman and Joe Tasker it really was hard on Chris. Very sad we lost some fine mountaineers
Was that the music on the outro? If so, it caught my attention as being unusually appropriate for the mood at the close of this documentary, it was just the right touch. I had to go look it up though, never heard it before. Very good stuff, I'm not even sure what kind of music it is, but it sounds awesome.
Reinhold Messner did it the hard way - alone, without oxygen and during the monsoon in 1980. However, his attempt to do it barefoot without ropes failed.
In his last months he led a climb Everest on your stairs. Many of his peers followed. He raised several funds for Nepalese villages in need of basic sanitation.
@@heiroot It is not a question of figuring it out. It is a question of being able to afford infrastructure we take for granted, adapted to some of the most unique terrain on earth. It also has to do with resources being lifted out of that general region of the world for some 300 years by those who built their way out of not having basic sanitation and said infrastructure by the riches taken through colonialism. London 400 years ago lacked basic sanitation, as did many places in Europe. The Pilgrims EXACTLY 401 years ago this November had to have their turkey bacon saved by Native Americans because they couldn't figure out how to grow their crops. A lot of figuring for people of European descent has come at the expense of the people of the Global East and South... so no need to look down on the Nepalese.
@@hymnodyhands I'm sure if they were born and raised in one of the poorest places on earth, where everything you do gets wiped out by a fucking monsoon by spring, they'd be digging wells, designing irrigation systems, and working on their PhD.
@@hymnodyhands Don't lump everybody with the anglo saxon way. French for example did not impose their ways to indians but shared it. You're a hegemonic anglo who assumes the world is what you know. Big news you don't know much at all.
A neat bracing shot of whiskey suits me fine on a cold, snowy day! (Ciggies and cannabis, not so much. I smoke only on rare social occasions and haven’t had cannabis since my first year of college. To give you a clue how long ago, we called it pot and worried very little about getting VD, because a shot of penicillin would take care of it.).
Sir Chris bonington visited brammah 1 6416mtrs in 1973 which hasn't been recorded yet and not even in last 5 decades..we wish climbers will turn towards this conical peak in kibber valley of kishtwar himalayas
beeble2003 --- Yup, that's inflation for you. Seems mad people that lived through the times, but younger people, today don't notice the odd difference in pricing. Same for us and our parents generation.
Beer was 20p/pint in 1975 in pubs in the UK so £1 was quite pricy. Beer I'm sure was a luxury and fair play to the locals making some money out of the rich britishers.
Let me add that I live in Manila in 2020 and can buy a 33cl bottle of beer in a bar for £1. Thats 45 years later than 1975 although not a 568cl pint bottle.
Bonington is still alive. He is 86. Dougal Haston sadly died in a avalanche just two years after this expedition. Doug Scott just died a couple of years ago.
The glory days for climbing and for Everest; gone forever now in a rush of greed and idiocy. Nonentities paying thousands of dollars to be pulled up the mountain by the Sherpas. Tragic.
Irish King to be fair the porters only carried load to the bottom base camp the climbers seem to fix all there own lines ladders and camps only using the Sherpas as labourers. Now a days the Sherpas do everything for the client right up until the summit. There’s a documentary on YT called Sherpas the true hero’s of Everest
@@gratefulant2489 The sherpas did most of the work here too for £ 1 per day. 100 sherpas - more than 12 sherpas per climber! Most of the porters were women. The rest were children. The porter wage was extremely low.
@@fuglbird £1 (In 1975) day equates to about 1,300 Nepali rupees today, three times the Nepali minimum wage. Aprox a weeks wage bonus for each trip to camp five, a fortnight's wage bonus per trip to camp 6.
Wow, you are a grumpy old man, aren't you. Not gonna lie, I'm feelin that energy. I get along very well with grumpy old men- I just be like mm-hm, and agree with everything 🤣
Had this conversation with my wife the other day. I get up go to work, pay the bloody bills rinse and repeat. I've run a few marathons and served my country. Have two kids who are highly intelligent and that's where I found my joy. I hope you feel better and find a way through it all. I totally understand. All the best.
?? Hahahahah well, obviously, if ur to dumb to know the difference between weather and climate, well u should prob be in a nursing home! Good luck! Lol
Climate change (like the real thing) was noticed in the 50s and ignored. The ice age thing was made more of than there was. People didn't really worry about the ice agd just like they don't worry nearly enough about climate change now😶🌫️
@@annnee6818 Are you deliberately ironic joking? Climate hysteria was wrong back then and it's WRONG NOW, entirely unscientific and clickbait media driven. Climate Alarmists have NO IDEA what they are talking about.
I had to chuckle when I heard Chris Bonington was asked to keep a small tape recorder as an audio diary. Tape recorders were pretty big back then! Must have been a bit cumbersome! Anyway, this group reminds me more of the groups that went up before the war than the climbers nowadays.
The book about the expedition is a must have; it explains/shows nicely how Nick found the way out of the left gully and onto the yellow band. An avoidable tragedy losing Mick Burke; he should have turned back and maybe have a second try. His commitment to film the second summit bid was the trigger that lead to his death
The deteriorating weather led to his death. He also had prescription glasses under his goggles which would have hindered his vision in the whiteout. Filming was his job as a climbing cameraman for the BBC, so I would hardly say it was the trigger.
I’ve been aware of Mick Burke since I saw this on television when it first came out in the 1970s. I dedicated a painting to him (not that anyone will ever see it). I was also a cameraman in a past life. I suspect Mick Burke was feeling the pressure to get it done. Not much point going to Everest if you don’t get the money shot. I think he probably knew the window of opportunity was closing and he had to balance the risk. Unfortunately it didn’t end well. Let’s not forget the young Sherpa who died either.
I meet a few young guys from Nepal and those areas, they look like small figure, but extremely powerful, I can’t carry 5 kg backpack for more than 1h in a flat road, what they doing is unimaginable hard ..
@@michaeljones7372 you would be surprised at the amount of climbers eat temple balls of hash and sometimes opium in the Himalayas I should add, likely not on summit day,
It was September when they were going up the mountain and all the snow is because they were in the tail end of the monsoon season. Bonnington mentions that the winter winds will be starting soon
@@geneappeal plus it's misleading cus most of the footage is from the southwest face that most people haven't seen before so it's hard to compare. They weren't showing the typical South Col or North side routes etc
See how the Sherpas were beaming when the pair that bivvied got back? They must have been certain that those guys were done for... But nope... back next morn for tea and biscuits!
@@silverliteway Indeed, In those days Andrzej Zawada was polish Chris Bonington and Jerzy Kukuczka was like Doug Scott. Today Krzysztof Wielicki is chairman of polish himalayan sport administration. I would say these two, Kukuczka and Wielicki are most famous in Poland. Kukuczka climbed Dhaulagiri and Czo Oju in one winter (January/February 1985) and Wielicki climbed Broad Peak solo in 21 hours in 1984 (base camp -> summit -> base camp) as first man ever in 1 try. You can check Jerzy Kukuczka and Krzysztof Wielicki on wikipedia. Cheers
Wow that image that starts around 1:14:00 is majestic and kinda frightening at the same time. If you didn't know what it was you would think you're looking at a demon or the gates to the afterlife or something.
because it was Europeans who introduced the Sherpas to climbing and taught them how to do it... Sherpas only do it now because people pay to them- in the same way that the guides in the Alps are European- because its in Europe.
