I've done both, paint protection film and ceramic coating, to all my vehicles. The benefits this video shows are not over exaggerated. The ease of keeping my vehicles clean and looking like new as well as the protection from not getting rock chips and swirls, is worth every penny.
If you put ceramic coating on a whiteboard it won't work anymore? You'd probably try to use it but it would seem as though all your markers are dead, even brand new ones. This would result in confusion by those who didn't know that the whiteboard has been ceramic coated. As a TA and tutor, for whom whiteboard markers are the tool of my trade, I think I see a prank coming on...
As a professional detailer (and once an authorized installer) who has been installing ceramic coatings for half a decade - this is the best video I have seen outside of our industry (and even some inside the industry. Well done.
hi mate, how can i know if the paint shop really put some ceramic coat on my car? i just had a ceramic paint protection and looks like the same and not gloss as seen in this videos..i paid $900 for application..i felt they rip me of😣😣😣
In the Land Cruiser group on Facebook, many people swear by Fluid Film. I haven’t tried it myself. My Land Cruiser has built in rust protection (it leaks oil).
I had the Opti Coat Pro plus coating applied to my black Nissan 370Z sport coupe over all the exterior surfaces, including the wheels and brake calipers, and the results are really amazing. The installers had a challenging time working with the Nissan "Scratch Shield" self-healing clear coat, having to do two separate compounding stages to let the clearcoat stabilize before doing the second stage. After the final polishing stages the surface was like a glass mirror and was ready for the silicon carbide base coat, followed by the silicon dioxide top layer. It will take a full month before the coating is fully cured and reaches its full hardness and gloss, but already, after a week, it's incredibly glossy and resists almost all debris that tries to stick to it. Surface dust and dirt blow off when I drive it and bird droppings slide off when I hit them with water. It was not cheap, >$2,000, but I think it was a worthwhile thing to do for a very nice car that I plan to keep and want to keep looking nice. One nice thing about it is that it can go for much longer periods before needing to be washed and when I do wash it it is much easier and faster to clean.
Wow, that's fascinating that the self-healing of the film still works. That was one of the things I wondered about when I got ceramic on the Bullitt on top of the XPEL. Thanks for the info Jason!
Yeah, I probably did that little scratch test like 10 times, and kept saying "huh?!" The audio of the native clip is hilarious cuz it's just me baffled again and again haha. Wild that the healing still works!
There are SOOOO MANY choices, I don't know which one to select. How about explaining the difference between a $69 DIY ceramic coating and a $1,000 professional ceramic coating with paint correction? Some reviews on Amazon say some brands only last 3 months or less.
Let’s say you run over someone, it’s nice that there will be less evidence on the car, but won’t it leave a ceramic coating “fingerprint” on the victim? I’m asking for a friend.
I've recently done ceramic coatings on my Audi's and my mother in law's Chevy. It's a chore but well worth it. Since I didn't have a pro set up, the full cleaning, decontamination, correction and 3 layers of coating took about 3 days. A few days after doing my S6, we took a trip to Washington from AZ. We drove through "a butterfly migration of biblical proportions" as one article put it and the car was absolutely painted yellow from bug splatters. We got back 5 days later and used nothing more than the pressure sprayer from a corner carwash and everything came off! If you love your car, this should be on your list. FULL equipment will run around $400 to do it yourself and there are a ton of how to videos. I used CQuarts UK 3.0, Gliss and Delux on the trim. It's almost magical.
One thing you didn't mention is UV protection. Many ceramic coatings tout this. Anecdotally, I vinyl wrapped my car with cheap ebay vinyl, and the sun almost immediately burned the gloss away. I re-wrapped the roof and hood and coated it with Hydrosilex (not even a 'real' ceramic coating, but has similar properties), and the gloss has remained for 8-plus months. So there does seem to be UV protection with that product.
I work at a carwash and I can say this stuff works when applied by the pros. Rust Check and Eco Rust Tech is always sloppy no matter who puts it on, and it gets dirt stuck in it that never washes out. If it started clean when you added the coating, it'll still trap dirt and make your vehicle look 10 years older and lose a lot of value. They put a sticker with the year they applied Rust Check, and I find it lasts around 3 years. On top of that, people apply Rust Check to brand-new vehicles, which don't need protection, as they don't have any scratches in the paint or coatings.
Tip for coated cars: You can use an air blower if you have one, to blow the majority of water off the car after washing and rinsing. This will allow you to easily dry the car with a single drying towel and reduce the amount you are rubbing the paintwork with towels(less swirls in paint). You can also blow out the mirrors and other drippy areas to prevent drip marks. Also like he said in the video. If you park your black Nissan outside all the time, it is going to get water marked. If you wash your car with dirty water, or dirty sponges and dry it with an old sham, it is going to get swirls. Nothing other than good car care can prevent those things.
If you are getting a new car get a coating immediately. Like make it part of the buying process. Get the car and drive it straight to a detailer. New car paint is becoming insanely thin and is close to making correction impossible.
I had my car (2011 Porsche Panamera) professionally ceramic coated with Feynlabs Heal Lite. It has self-healing capabilities without the paint protection film. A few months later I had a small mishap with my garage and the self-healing capabilities worked. I was amazed at how well it worked. As the video said you still have to wash your car, but washing is much easier now and the car always looks great. If it is not too dirty you can do a "waterless wash" which is super fast and easy. I am really glad I had my car professionally ceramic coated.
As a detailer I can say that there’s no “miracle product” and that preparation and the skill of the installer is much more important than brand of product.
I've seen them posted. A good ceramic with a top coat is better. Big difference is the carnuba will drop of signifagantly after a few washes (or even one with a strong detergent) and the ceramic keeps going and going and going...
First there was wax, then came film, and then came ceramic coating. Now, film+ceramic coating is what every detailer locally recommends. At this rate, next will be bubble wrap with viewing glass! and no driving...
@@percynjpn4615 what if my '21 truck receives coating and is kept outside (no carport) but with a good quality car / truck cover? Does that delay sun damage significantly?
Yep; everything in this video is true. I have this on my vehicle and it makes cleaning a breeze, not to mention my stress level is lower knowing that bug, skat and sap droppings can be cleaned within a reasonable amount of time w/o any issues. 👍 I like the level of detail in this video. _Jason, you're really loving that Tesla and going all out. Not that I blame ya ;)_
The protection of ceramic coating lasts for years. The repelancy can fall off somewhat after a few months. Then all it needs is a spray booster and 5 minutes to restore it. He did mention that in the video.
The film seems ridiculously overpriced for what it is. Can't cost that much to manufacture? Labor cost I can understand since the film is tricky and time consuming to install on contoured surfaces.
Think of the healing as residual stresses within the material that allow it to return to its “known” form/link when excited by heat/energy. If you want more info, I can ask; a close friend got his degrees in plastics engineering, chemistry, and molecular science
Simple question - if there is a real benefit to these coatings and films, why don't car makers offer them as factory options? It would be far easier and cheaper to apply films and coatings to car panels *before* final assembly. Why would they bypass such lucrative opportunity to undercut these aftermarket dealers?
Afaik, you can't really scale it. No matter how big the company, it is still a labor intensive work. So it is easier to cut it, unless you are buying something pretty exclusive, then the company will do pretty much anything you want.
I’m sorry to write this... but this video was more of an infomercial than an informative video. I would like more info on the composition and how it react with surface and when curing. Etc.
This looks exactly like CarPro's CQuartz. Right down to the "booster" being a milky-white SiO2 product. Got to say my days of work on prep was worth it for my CQuartz application. It really comes down to having a perfect surface to put your ceramic coating on. That's where you will pay and hopefully find someone who knows their stuff. You won't get good results on an old car unless you correct the paint first. I did my first ceramic coat when I bought the car and after doing a full polish and glaze cycle on the entire car. When I switched to CQuartz after seeing the superiority of the finish compared to what I was using, I had to do the same polish and glaze cycle again. The results are superb, but the car still gets filthy and looks terrible if not washed. One thing that isn't mentioned in the video is that while coatings have a hydrophobic property, much rainwater and spray on the roads has chemicals and particulates which do stick to the surface and cause a dirty appearance. In the Atlanta area my car will look filthy if I drive in the rain. Simple hose water is not enough to clean it, and I need to do a full wash if I want the car to look "clean" again. As for paint protective film, IMO it is a bit of a waste unless you have lots of money or a free/low cost way of replacing it regularly. It tears, oxidizes (turns yellow), and generally looks bad far more quickly than the paint. True it does have a sacrificial protection against rocks or other debris, but the hassle of replacing it is a non-zero cost. It doesn't make financial sense, either if you are planning to use it to preserve resale value. The paint condition is an almost insignificant (barring conspicuous damage) portion of your car's value. If you are trying to sell a car, if it is a commodity like 99% of cars (including anything Tesla makes) the only things that materially affect price are age and mileage. Film is basically a bad investment. You could easily get a respray of the bumper clip and hood for the same price as some film installs and get a perfect restoration as opposed to a constantly degrading bit of vinyl on top of your finish. I'm not paid or compensated in any way from CarPro. I simply like their products.
Not familiar with how the film works. You make a valid point about the cost of repainting vs replacing the coating. Wondering If the film yellows on garage kept vehicles? Also it depends on the cost of your paint job. If your paying 10k initially you might be willing/find it cost effective to drop much less than that to protect it. Especially if it cannot be matched or blended easily. Also if you are anal about the appearance of your vehicle than I also see benefit in the film. You can restore your car to showroom finish in 5 minutes ( from what this video says) vs at least an hour buffing and polishing which then degrades the coating. While I may be satisfied with a respray every year or so not every one may aggree.
That seems rather high. I trust you know better than I just wondering were the cost comes from materials, equipment or labor? Regardless even if it lasted only a year before having to redo the ppf from my understanding it protects against 90% of the normal front damage small chips and scratches. If you are anal about you cars appearance to the tune of 10k a year than it is probably worth it because within a week to a month you will most likely have a chip or scratch that the ppf would prevent and could not be buffed out. To say nothing of cost effectiveness, it's just not practical to paint your car monthly. Maybe no one is that anal but if I was inclined to pay over 100k for a car I probably would be that anal. If I could hose it off and heat it up rather than go to the body shop it would be worth every penny.
@@iangreene2063 I think 3-5 years is more typical of PPF lifespan. But yeah I've seen a number of people on YT getting full PPF wraps and saying that's how much it costs, which is pretty crazy IMHO.
@@iangreene2063 no more yellowing on PPF. That was just old, shitty glue they used to use that did that. Doesn't happen anymore no matter how long it lasts
@Andrew Delashaw I just went on xpel and added up the cost for a 2014 Mustang. Just the film itself not including installation is $3600. So I disagree with ur figure. Show me where i can get full xpel film for the price u quoted
@@Garebare1 You can't. A complete vehicle PPF wrapped is in excess of $7000+. To have someone who truly knows what they're doing, is charging upwards of $10000+. For some, protecting their paint for 7+ years is more valuable than repainting the entire car. So yes, while a complete correction, wrap and coating is probably gonna run you $10000 for the entire car to be done, it's the benefits of the protection and permanently save the paint from oxidation, rock chips, swirls and scratches.
@@Jackieletits That's just way too much money for paint protection, imo. God forbid your car gets involved in a hit and run, or hit a deer, or gets keyed up by some hater. $10,000 right down the drain. I'll stick to waxing my car 4 times a year.
All shown is 10 years old tech. Xpel is so late on the market with this. Both Geyon and CQuartz have specific coating for PPF with biffed up UV protection to avoid yellowing, but you can easily drop their 'regular' coatings and have great results. Removing does NOT need sanding. A one step polish (I use Sonax 04-06) easily removes it all on an orange pad with 4 passes. I have my DD coated and every spring I have to retouch few areas due to Canada winter and parking lots bumps etc. You can't touch a 'professional' coating lol $$$
Taking my Jeep Gladiator straight to a shop as soon as I pull it off the lot to get the paint corrected and prepped then have the film and coating applied. I drive an 08 Silverado right now and the paint has been ruined for the passed 4 years. Scratches and swirl marks everywhere, clear coat pealing on the hood and roof, paint rubbed off on the door handles. Not happening this time. I’m protecting my $65k investment.
I can only wish for nice paint... When I had a new car I was overly paranoid, then I bought a used 09 Honda in 2011 and just took care of it but didn't hyperventilate if it chipped, which is good because the clear coat failed on the entire car and it is all flaking off now... I just let it go and pressure wash the clearcoat chips off :) ir's still not scratched or dented :) haha
Wax 4× a year with Meguiar gold class carnauba plus premium paste wax ....trust me ! It would be the best 24 dollars you will ever spent on your car ..available at Wal-Mart
They're removable. You just have to polish it off. I put CQuartz on my vehicle and screwed up a few small areas and I was able to hit it with a little CarPro Essence and my polisher and reapply the coating. Came out perfect after that. The DIY kits are a lot less expensive. But only last around 2 years vs the 4 - 5 years you get warrantied at the professional shops.
Pretty sure the "ceramic" word is for marketing and defnintely doesn't have anything to do with your bathroom tiles or kitchen china. These coatings (there are many of them) are essentially silicone, similar to silicone sealent or adhesive. Sure, they are all silicon (without the "e") based, but that makes them hardly what you'd call a ceramic (even if the chemical composition might be similar). Ever wiped silicone sealent or adhesive over a surface by accident? Gets you the exact same effect of being hydrophobic and being almost impossible to remove execpt by mechanical means. Obviously products indended as coating have a different consistency and solvent to make them easier to apply.
|*** QUESTION ***| Was there ANY wax on the non-ceramic side of the Subaru ? It looks as thought there was not. What I would like to know...how much BETTER is the ceramic side compared to a freshly waxed side? I don't mind waxing my vehicles. With that in mind, does the ceramic cost still justify its' worth?
@@BlackyBrownDestruction9337 well it wouldnt be wise to change it up unless your hub spacer adapts to stud centric for a specific set of wheels. Usually those are only used for bead locks.
Hey, nice video. I think it should be mensioned that if you apply the coating on glass, many people dont like the "new" feeling of water moving permanently even at low speeds because of the minor friction of the windshield. My experience in the past , as i put some of those lotus effect stuff on my windshield , was that my wipers had to do even more work cause of the perma-moving water all over the windshield. Maybe a matter of taste , i dont know.... Have a nice day !
very confusing. so are you saying it is good or bad in your experience, that the wipers are now have to more work which beats the purpose. doesnt make any sense
any protection against bugs? Where is live we have long farm side boring roads, when is easy to go up to 180kmh.. but the bugs laters.. is a pain to remove them, is there any product to help with this?
Don't confuse silicon with silicone. Silicon Dioxide is a ceramic, a very hard ceramic. Titanium Dioxide is also used, also a very hard ceramic. Different companies use different formulas but SiO2 is the most common.
Just after watching this video, I drove home through a blizzard, having trouble with my windows getting covered with snow on the outside and fogging up on the inside. It is mentioned that this can be used on windows - would it help prevent snow and ice accumulating on windows? Would putting it on the inside help with preventing them fogging up?
McG, in the video he mentioned polishing it OFF with deep abrasive compound. I would recommend 1. Wash, 2. clay, 3. product stripper (clean slate- it preps paint for the following products), 4. polishing compound (then remove comp residue w/paint surface cleaner), 5. paint sealant (liquid), 6. Wax (liquid). Check out Chemical Guys, Dallas paint correction, Pan the organizer, ammo NYC. Thank you.
Jesus Hernandez Mmm, do you really need all that prior removing a ceramic coating? I would just wash it, then use a cleaner wax or compound, the pad may have to be trashed afterwards but it might save a ton of time.
when it breaks down you don‘t see anything. The only thing you will notice is that you lose the water repelling effect which you can revive by re-applyin the coating
They have products that remove any sealant or coating. It's not that hard. My car is coated with simoniz glass coat. It's a "ceramic" coating, but I've been told it's just a paint sealant. I was losing the hydrophobic properties since it's been like 3 years now, but I recently applied the meguiars ceramic detailer to it and the beading is insane. It brought back all the hydrophobic properties and it cleared up my paint.
What is the eventual failure mechanism of ceramic coatings? I know they don't just be there one day and then are completely absent the next day, so there must be areas of the exterior where the coating thickness becomes thinner and thinner. Can the product be reapplied with good results? If so, what is the reapplication procedure? Is the preparation different?
this video clears so many things regarding both Protective Films and Coating. But, what about the Ceramic Coating in a very hot and harsh weather like (Middle East)?
@@Phrancis5 The si02 main ingredient in these ceramic products and sealants is available on the open market for roughly a dollar per pound...you do the math. Not to mention that many of these ceramic coatings are very prone to water spotting and require yet an additional coating on top of them that has to be reapplied every few months to prevent it. Now why do you need a coating for your coating if the first coating is supposed to be a superior choice?
What I see often is people thinking you never have to wash the car with a mitt.... FALSE! It does stay cleaner longer and cleans up far easier but you still have to wash it with a mitt at some point if you want it truly clean.
anywhere from 5K to 10K for full PPF, depending on car size and how complicated the body shapes are. In some cases it might actually be cheaper to just have a body panel repainted instead of applying film, which eventually will have to be peeled off and replaced.
In my experience after a couple years with ceramic sealants on my cars, the clay is not needed because contaminants can't get through. The paint feels as smooth as the day it was clayed and the ceramic applied, even in typical trouble spots like above the exhaust on the bumper. You can still use clay (or I prefer Nano Skin) to remove little blemishes without apparently harming the ceramic.
I had a paint correction and ceramic coating installed the other day. There are massive swirls from previous car wash scratches still. They used a paint pen and half a$$ed repaired it but actually newly chipped my brand new hood. There was also paint missing where my license plate vibrated and rubbed through. They didn't even remove the plate. It cost me $1500!
Hey, this is all great but I was hoping to find an answer to a question that has always been going through my mind...what if I have to respray or partially respray a panel or worse, blend in a repair, and the car is ceramic coated??is the paint going to stick? If the bodyshop has to spend hours making sure that the coating is removed (without being 100%sure of it), that is going to be expensive!
I just got my 2024 Lexus RX350 at Pembroke Pines Fl. , financing department told it was included in the price. then A guy came to pick up the keys of the car and told us it should only take 20 minutes. when it was ready I noticed the car had dirty mug spots, like the car was dirty. So asked the several people and they no is just drying it looks dirty. Then someone told me the should have been completely clean if ceramic coating was applied. So I asked the guy who did the job and he spry ceramic coating again in the spots and wiped right away. Then no one told anything me about curing time. so I drove away. and my car is usually park out in the open. and after seeing this video I know they didn't do it right and Yet after reading my contract I found out Lexus charged me $2000 for it. What can IO top now? can anyone advised me?
Do ceramic coatings provide some UV protection like waxes do? Or is the ceramic coating purely providing a slippery hydrophobic coating for repelling dirt?
So about 2k to coat my Model S. Seems extreme. I'd rather wax my car twice a year. (Whole care once and just the top areas twice) The protective wrap makes sense but only to the front, hood, mirrors and partial top of car as that's what gets hit on my highway commutes and that's about 1k. I'm a car guy, waxing is part of the game. But if you do t like waxing and have 2k laying around... thats alot of tires!
Jason please address the question of how to remove the ceramic coating. Because as far as I can work out; magnetic tool to measure paint thickness gives false positive for extra paint when the surface is ceramic coated. This can be a huge deal breaker when selling the car. Please reply to this and thanks in advance.
I was a skeptic until I saw an example of this. Thing is, you'll need paint protection first before this application, which will make the total cost very expensive. I got quoted $1500 for the highest level application BEFORE the paint correction.
Paint correction* (not protection, if you have paint protection on your car you won't need correction). I asked XPEL about pricing, they said $800-$1000 before paint correction. But of course will vary by shop/location/etc.
Do you really have to sell out to whatever company wants you to hawk their crap or snake oil? You have done so many times from motor oils to this. I can buy a $4 bottle of spray wax I use every 4th wash that will keep my paint just as hydrophobic as any expensive “ceramic” treatment just like their expensive “booster” does. You’re just helping promote a total rip off for your own gain. I just unsubscribed. You’ve gone from educator to shameless selfish promoter. Boo.
Maybe someday i'll get a car i care about how good it looks. As it is, i need it only as a personal transportation vehicle and little else. Paint is all messed up....don't care... I do however care very much about the windows. I'll have to take a good long look at how good this works on glass, and if i can get if professionally installed/applied around here. To have a truly good, long lasting hydrophobic coating on my windows with no haziness, now THAT i do give great importance to.
I really wish there were some facts here. no coating or wax is ever touching the paint, unless your car is from the 1950's. it's the clear coat, fun fact, clear coat was invented to, you guessed it, protect the paint, it even has UV blockers. And for the price, I just clay bar and wax twice a year. My clear coat looks great.
Good question! Mentioned the health concerns a bit in the video, but here's a link to their safety data sheet if you'd like to know more: www.xpel.com/web-assets/downloads/XPEL-FUSION-PLUS-SDS-V1.1.pdf
I really need to get a ppf for the front of my car but the only place near me still hasn't e-mailed me back. Not to mention college has me pretty tied up, oh well I guess I will have to pay a bit extra to have things cleaned up a bit before application.
Give them a call or just show up to the shop! The place I had my stuff done (XPEL Boise) people walk in all the time to ask about different options, have a look at the car's paint condition, etc.
