what a gorgeous engine when its done! this is a 1910s 2 1/2hp lauson built for DeLaval. a lot of parts where broken and I managed to break several others. hope you guys enjoy!
You certainly got it going but obviously have a lot to learn on using the correct types of tools to correctly approach the job in hand. Something of this age requires an amount of respect.
@@SiaVids I agree and disagree at the same time I work on them damn near daily there is some respect to be had but a crescent wrench is plenty of respectful if you're careful with it. And this is a relatively common engine in the general spectrum of things so the only rare thing about it that is worth being really careful with is the paint job as there isn't a lot of nice originals like this left out there
Most folks don't know the correct way to use an adjustable wrench. I see them pulling against the moveable jaw all the time and that's what makes things go badly. Always pull against the fixed jaw.
if that's what you want to think, good for you. glad they include valve seat cutters , industrial welders, a lathe, a mill, valve grinder, magneto magnet charger, and all the other tools I used to make this engine run and to make this video. it wasn't a restoration I don't know where your getting that from. amazing how naïve some people can be about something they don't know much about. had a couple goals in the video get the engine running and get it running well as well as taking any slop out of all loose components and both where achieved and nothing was ruined or hurt that wasn't already bad or broken . "restoring" as a lot of RU-vid binge watchers say, would be a waste of what this engine is as a piece of history. I only want to preserve the patina the engine has while making it mechanically sound and tuning it till it runs as best it can. anyone complaining about my methods or what tools I used is either not experiences in antique engines or just a keyboard warrior looking for a argument to act like they know better. no nuts where rounded, no bolts striped, no good parts ruined, all original paint and history saved, and the engine runs better now than in the past 80+ years of its life. so maybe rethink your judgement.
@@thepotterer3726 why do people hate a crescent wrench so much. If your rounding bolts off with one your using it wrong. They have easily enough grip to break the bolt before rounding it off so I still don't get why people hate them so much. They are a very useful tool that only novices say don't work especially in the old engine world.
@@cruddycornstalks personally it's because it's big as fuck, it's easy to round bolt because they tend to have a lot of play and in general, they look like something that does the job badly i personally woun't use it, but i mean, it's not me working on that, and it clearly worked good enought to do the job. i think hammering straight into the valve might be worse than any wrench. again no hate, of course, i just want to discussion, but hammering into a stuck valve seems a good way to fuck stuff up
thanks! original paint is by far more expensive and harder to get then any repaint you can ever do to an engine. the decades of wear and age make a patina and color you cannot make from any spray can or brush! people that say otherwise don't respect a machines history or age. now if its been repainted its free game!
Oh look, an engine that you can actually repair without patented tools and a computer that can only be reset by the manufacturer and is obsolete as soon as the manufacturer goes bankrupt
Варвар!!! Мало знать работу!!!! Главное понимать, что делать, как и чем!!! Варвар!!! Отобрать инструменты!!! И никогда больше не подпускать даже близко!!!
@@SharkRoadssure don't seem like you have delt with very many hit and miss engines. Do some learning before you make assumptions. And it isn't a restoration never said it was. 90% of people call repainting and engine a restoration. And I find the word over used and useless.
Yep. Not only was he a goon with a Crescent Wrench but he held it backwards on the Nuts. Then used it for a hammer. Oh boy. Sure ran good. I don’t know how
@@squarefour1 and what did it do? Nothing worked perfectly fine. No rounded heads no problems with the wrench what so ever but people still complain like it is causing problems. And it ran because I did the work it needed to run.
Das mucha "envidia buena" como decimos en el idioma español. Es muy divertido y gratificante poner a funcionar cosas antiguas; en mi casa tenemos un Renault 4 de 1977 que estuvo abandonado casi 15 años y ahora lo tenemos andando. Puede que técnicamente se puedan hacer las cosas mejor pero el trabajo que has hecho es muy bonito.
@@ShawnColorado thanks! At least John deere mags are around. I was worried I wouldn't find another splitdorf but a friend found me one and I was saved. I didn't mention it in the video but the windings in mine where also bad so the parts one came it twice as handy.
Bring back a lot of memories for me. When I was a teenager my friends Dad owned an antique shop and had a lot of old engines similar to this one and we started bringing them back and cleaning them up and getting to run again. This included some very old Tractors too!
@@MARRANCA2 if you think a crescent wrench is a bad tool you either Don't know how to use one or have never used one properly to begin with. There's no harm in in using a crescent wrench. If using it correctly you can snap the bolt off before it would ever round the head.
BITCH PLEASE...I've been a Field Technician probably longer than you've been alive. But please...tell me about myself while you're using crap tools. Hahahaha. You're a joke.
a field technician isn't a hit and miss engine mechanic. between me and my father we have about 60 years in antique farm machinery repair, and we aren't going to tell you how to be a field technician , because there are almost completely unalike. if you haven't worked on antique engines maybe you shouldn't talk about how someone works on them.
@@cruddycornstalks my grandfather had one a third smaller it had a brass handle that when started folded into the flywheel . He had a washing machine water pump (think late 40s-early 50s) and a pair of pullies and old fan belt and he used it as an irrigation system for his trees , he showed me how to start it and it just popped along.
@@cruddycornstalks monkey sees monkey does, this is the trouble. There is alot of young people who learn off RU-vid before they attempt. They copy these bad practices.
You redeemed yourself for me when you remagnetized magneto . Hammering te valve head was not a great start. You were lucky with the cast iron weld too .
I used to threaten my engineers with the sack if they used an adjustable spanner as their main tool. They can have their uses, but round off the corners of nuts at a high rate.
@@elaref7225 if your crescent wrench is rounding your nuts off you are using it wrong it will break the bolt it's on before rounding the head if you use them correctly
@@cruddycornstalks using them correctly is the problem My old boss was a patternmaker. When he started he company he supplied the machine setters, a toolkit of mallet, 10" adjustable & a tape measure. Most of the machine bolts were 6mm with heads for a 10mm spanner.. So, yes, they twisted the heads off on the odd occasion they adjusted it correctly!
@@elaref7225 yep. There should not be flak on the crescent wrench but the lack of using it correctly because I have never rounded a botl off with one ever unless someone gave me a cheap china wrench that would not stay tight
If it works it’ll be a miracle. Lots of rusty components I apologize, it’s a miracle. It speaks volumes about the quality of the products built by master engineers ❤❤❤❤❤❤
a few before me had wacked on it for a good minute the stem was crushed to almost twice its thickness. so I had a replacement in line and had no reason to worry about breaking it, though it wasn't really expected. but hoh boy do people seem mad that I broke a valve that I had a replacement for ! and they seem to act like they know how to fix the world!
I guess Delaval was the same company as Alfa laval ,which is familiar to me as makers of milk separators for dairy farmers. A huge company once. The little motor was typical on small farms for running the milking plant and separator.
Nunca me paso de ver una restauración tan mediocre, con golpes innecesarios al punto de romper una válvula, y nada prolijo al trabajar, una vergüenza como reparador
You are a far better mechanic than I am. However, I'm disappointed that 1) you did not use sockets or at least open end wrenches to remove the nuts, 2) you didn't take the valve assembly to your anvil, and use something a bit less drastic to hit on the valve so it did not shatter, 3) once you had everything apart, you took each assembly to first a cleaning station to remove the old gunk, then to a sandblasting to make everything look at least clean. Yes, you were able to make the engine work again, and if that was your only goal, you accomplished that. I suppose I'm used to restoration folks totally cleaning, stripping, re lubing, and repainting everything so it looked nearly new. I suppose I was expecting more.
thank you. for once a polite and honest critique. but! 1) a crescent does no harm to any nut or bolt when used correctly and it didn't, as well as it fits some old bolts better then any socket will since they have rusted smaller over time and aren't standard anymore, 2) had no major care for saving the valve since I had replacements ready and it was bashed in hard from many people before me trying, 3) I cleaned the grease off generally and plan to clean it farther by hand, but I would never sand blast this engine or its parts as the paint and its patina is part of its history and far harder to obtain then any type of paint you can spray at it. it took that paint over a hundred year to get that way and people want to spend a few hours taking it off and putting something anyone can buy at a store on it, no thank you. I did a bunch of little mechanical reworking to remove slop and make the engine run as best as it can and succeeded . when it comes to antique farm machinery it is far more desirable to preserve the nice original paint, then "restore it" . if you have the paint to preserve. thank you for your comment and your thoughts!
Subbed, Quick, no bullshit rebuild, so many people nowadays are scared of elbow grease, and treat things like they are made of wet toilet paper. good job
I want to build a similar enging from molten metal. Make lost foam castings , possibly some lodt pla using 3D prints. Then build a engine, to be used to generate power to charge batteries for a off grid home. NOT a replica.. more of a look at one of these, and say "Hey! I can build one of these!" Type of thing.. i have work on engines since I was a kid. But i want to actually cast and weld Making the parts for a engine. I would really like to build a few for different fuels. Build a steam engine to burn used engine oil in the boiler, id like to make it from stainless steel about the size of two 55 gallon drums on the outside. The inside, the actual boiler bring roughly the size of 1.5-1.7 , 40 gallon drums. Uses 1/2" plate, (two of them) drill (and ream) about 60 holes for the 1.25" stainless 18 gauge tubes. Placed in the steel end caps then wrapped eith a 1/4" sheet or possibly. 2-3 1/8" sheets. Eith the steam fully welded, (full penetration welds) then grind and Polish the area. And nickel plate ( heavily on the inside) weld in a ring about 1/2 x 1/2" with a groove for a copper o-ring, the ring inside the outer hoop of plate steel. Tig welded to kerp it in place and sealed. The o-ring seals the end plates. Them having oval holes to sccess the tubes. the fire box only about 12"-24" made from two layers of plate. A 1/4" plate with a 2" spacer, from 1/4" plate. Then another plate of 1/16" or 1/8" with several 2" pipes eith plugs, to allow the inner of the sides to be filled with fine sand, the inner most plated in nickel, with a 20 gauge stainless sheet metal deflector polished to reflect heat. With a 18 gauge sheet on top with holes matching the tubes or depend on the nickel plating. For protection. With a series of rings of tubes 1.5"-2" eith multiple 3/4" tubes coming from it. About 4"-6" long with a leaf blower connected to the big tube. it habing a Small piece of tubing inside with used oil under about 5-10 psi the tubing 3/8" with 3/16 pieces running up the 3/4-1" tubes with about 6-8 tiny holes neat the end of the 3/16" tube with bit plugged. The only outlet being the tiny holes them spraying into a 3/8-1/2" tube about 2" long. Making a nozzle anout 12 of them . With a tiny vhrst plug for each. With insulation protecting the wire, probably switch to nichrome wire, using the tubing as the conductor of current. With 12,v, 30 amps or so have a hot wire over the nozzle with the blower on low, slowly turn on the fuel, maybe use propane to start it. But the red hot wire should start thr oil. Slowly turn up the fuel to grt a fire, then the blower until it doesn't smoke. It should have 60-80 psi in no time. With the glame on a steel plate on a fire btick, for each nozzle, it should heat the fire box to near 1000°f with the tubes bring ,600°f (the air moving through them!) with the water ABOUT 300°-380° maybe run a steam pipe through the box to super heat the steam through a triple pass 2" pipe. Then to the stem engine. Hopefully enough to generate 3kw atleast, 750watts bring roughly 1hp, so 1.25×3=3.75 HP. With losses it vould require up to 7.5-8hp to produce 2800-3kw. Depending on losses and efficiency. A efficient generator could require as little as 4-4.5 hp i would like to produce up to 20 kw eventually, require up to 40 HP. That bring up the other engines, a gas or propane, wood gas engine. Having two cylinders with 8" bores and a12" stroke being a opposed cylinder engine , the balance should be great. Spin up to 1200 rpm max. But normally be 400-600 RPM. With the pistons both up at the same time , but giring one sfter the other. It should run near silent with the long stroke. Thr combustion should be over when the valve opens. Just a whoosh sound with the intake vslve opening just as the woosh is almost over. To help fill the cylinder with air fuel. Making more power. With roughly 9:1-10:1 compression, 2-3 times or more compression than the old engines had! Should produce more power. By about the same multiplier. A tiny 3.5 hp engine with a better cam, more compression, better fuel. 3.5 hp should get to 6-7 easily, the TQ should be greater atleast. And better balance should allow higher RPM is equivalent to much more power!!.... Sorry to ramble! Have a awesome day!
I agree with some people, the last thing to use is adjustable wrench. But most of the people who watch this don't know how to restore an engine or the process of it.
@@christopherrobinkivisild5309 they sure seem like it's the worst thing to ever touch this engine like some of the nuts haven't been taken off with a chisel and hammer before.
new sub here, great rebuild, keep rebuilding and i will be back for sure, thanks for the content. Just a tiny bit of advise, flood the hell out of your camera shots with lighting for fine detail. Thanks again for the rebuild!
Those “pot metal” parts are quite toxic… it’s usually a mixture of zinc, lead and aluminium. The ratio of metals can vary, that’s why some batches last and others rot away.
thanks! alot of labor went into the filming and the editing to make the video nice and short. and everyone that doesn't understand that is saying i missed steps and did it wrong
IF YOUR GOING TO TAKE THE TIME TO TEAR IT DOWN' A SMART PERSON WILL CLEAN ALL PARTS AND SAND BLAST THE WHOLE THING. THEN PROCEED TO DO A FILING FOR BLEMISHES. AND SURFACE SAND ALL THE SHAFTS.. AND YES I CRINGED WHEN THE HAMMER CAME OUT...
@@richardkitchen2469 what sick person would sand blast something like this? Destroying all of the age and history it has and the original paint that's made it 110 plus years in the world. That sounds like someone that's never worked on preserving history very much. Let's save it by removing half of what makes it old and painting it with cheap paint that any one can put on anything, seems like a flawless plan. If you ever find an engine in this condition find someone else to save it because it sounds like you'd like to destroy half it's history.
It's worth bearing in mind that: a) he's entitled to do it any old way he pleases. b) purists are tiresome. c) you are anally retentive. Now, perhaps you can direct us to your restoration channel, I'm sure it's something to behold.
been tested by many people both perform very similar. and wd40 was on sale. and I always get like halfway through something and remember that penetrant exists and is helpful!
@@cruddycornstalks I’m an industrial mechanic for 20ish years, and I have the option to use WD 40 or PB, and it’ll be PB every time, and I even hate the smell of PB. It really works better.
@@nikolaivanov8208 And he has wrenches he just uses the adjustable wrench to save time going back and forth to the tool box and have to dig for the right size
@@enginecrzy thank you! someday when I have more time down the line I'd love to get it completely spotless in the crankcase too but I had time restraints so I skipped that part.
@@Mariano.Bernacki basically no hit and miss engine had an air filter. They just sucked crud in and spar crud out. That's why you can find a lot of them completely worn out from inhaling corn dust and the like for decades.
@@rogerstephens8019 crescent wrench is a proper wrench it turned the bolts with no damage or issue. aswell as has the benefit of fitting odd sized bolts and nuts that are either machines that way or rotted that way and has less chance of rounding them off then a standard wrench does. Something you learn after working on a few hundred of them. If you round bolts off with a crescent your using it wrong, or have a cheap china wrench that is to sloppy to stay tight to the bolt.
He visto dos motores asi en un antiguo sistema de bombeo para agua potable, uno es LISTER y el otro creo que es Fairbanks Morse aunque esta ultima también fabricaban bombas y motores eléctricos verticales
@@Michael-ul8bv good to know the person calling me a hack doesn't even know what I broke and what was already broken. Or the fact both had replacement parts waiting. Maybe go learn about something before you try to act like you know better.
That's a cool old engine, got an IH LA engine myself, but I cringe when you break out the crescent wrench and hammer, if you would take the time to use the proper tools and leave the hammer in the toolbox you would save yourself a lot of headaches
I don't know what people expect you to get the valve out with other then a hammer. A press would have a good chance of breaking a cast iron head valve and or bending it as well. And only people that don't know how to use an adjustable wrench don't like an adjustable wrench.
There is no need there's nothing in this engine sensitive enough to care nor in most engines from that time. The lead in fuel wasn't as much for a lubricant or dampener then it was an octane booster as there wasn't ever metal lead in gas only tetra ethyl lead and that has no major help over modern octane boosters and oils.
Sooooo, it cruises at 500 rpm....and the ignitor kicks it as the speed declines....?...Every now and then.....Must be very economic on gasoline....🤔😏🇬🇧... Here in the UK, these engines tended to be Diesel, or compression ignition but the exact same idea, slave engines.....😀😏🇬🇧
