Wonder who made the castings? I have made numerous model engines from scratch(bar stock), but never from a casting kit. Looked like some nice castings. I’m jealous of your pallet you bolted to the angle plate. 😊 Nice job!!
I totally enjoyed watching you. Your knowledge is obvious. I take it that it doesn't need piston rings. Please do keep on making more like this. I love the peaceful environment. No crappy music. Excellent content. I will share your channel.
I will probably end up making one but not sure when it will get done. The amount of editing along to make this video was a lot and took some time. But I will hopefully have that sometime this year.
Nice job! The copper wedge on the crank was really clever. Love your grooving tool. Your angle plate and fixture plate for it are insane! Clever idea putting the die in the chuck and stock in the tail. Really nice fit of the flywheel on the crankshaft. The only thing I was disappointed was misunderstanding your video thumbnail. I was hoping to see you design the machine first as I’m doing a similar project designing and making patterns then machining a vertical steam engine starting from only a 1896 steam engine design textbook.
Id like to build one something like this, only using roller bearings and possibly casting from old aluminum car rims and cylinder heads, lawnmower engine blocks. Weld up a crank from 3" hollow bar, and 1/2" x4" flat bar, possibly build a flywheel from the same flat bar, bent into a 24"-30" hoop. With spokes made from the same bar. 3 spokes, possibly at a angle to move air, and bolt on like modern flywheels. Using 1/2" grade 8 bolts 2" long, with a concentric hub, and dowel to fit one location. Fir balance. Braze or solder steel tubes inside the crank to pass oil to the rod bearings. And squirt the poston pins 1" heavy wall tubing, ,2" on a larger engine,, id like to build two. Being two cylinder, opposed twin, the small having a 4" bore, with 6" possibly 8" stroke with a large enginehaving 8"bores, and 12"-16" stroke. And having a head wuth 2.25" valves, and a flame deck head, with a piston with a scoop out of the center beng the combustion chamber, with about 195-215 psi compression the combustion chamber being about 5" across and deep enough to clear the valves opening .750-.850" and duration as needed, using a head mounted cam per valve, so the overlap and timing events can be adjusted for optimum efficiency. The opposed pistons should keep the balance near perfect with both pistons st BDC at the same time , id also like to attempt a diesel/waste oil burner build similar. Using a extreme air pressure injection system. compressing air in multiple stages up to 5-6 including the injection piston. Bring about 15-25 mm, and working like a Venturi the fast moving high-pressure air pulling the fuel into the cylinder through the nozzle, from a chamber outside the nozzle, governed by a dose like throttle, the more throttle, the more fuel delivered to the injector. With this amount limited by RPM. The air system having a storage made from a high pressure gas bottle holding 600psi plus, the plunger o rings backed by steel rings , similar to. Piston rings, in the injector. With two bting back to back, with gaps on opposite sides, with a oring behind or in the middle of the plunger with two rings each side with a pair of o-rings with a oil in/out between the two actung as a oil ring, holding oil, and wiping oil the injector cylinder filled with the high pressure air, milliseconds before the plunger is to ram the air and fuel into the cylinder the nozzle havibg a internal check valve about 2mm ball sealing a tube, with a spring pulling it closed the. Plunger and air pressure overcomes the spring as the plunger injects the fuel. It should be more efficient than modern ijection systems as far as the combustion effiency. Even the used engine oil AS fuel should be atomized into a near vapor as its injected with hot air into a hot chamber, with a compression ratio in the 24:1 range , 300psi. Possibly higher, enough to pressure to heat the air ti to about 400-550°f and possibly use a fuel heater and glow plugs, for easy starting, i cold weather, the oil shoujd be kept cool enough to not break down gumming the internals. The injection into hot o2 dense cylinder it should ignite instantly spraying over roughly 60° of rotation. Burnung until BDC as the exhaust valve opens just before. Spinning at upto 300-400 RPM the normal speed should be 150-200, i want the engine ti generate power to charge batteries for my off-grid home, i want to convert tires and plastic to fuel, as well as using waste oils. Id like a gas burner also to run on wood gas , and ethanol methanol what ever that liquid is that comes from tires when distilled. Have the ability to lower compressionby altering the cam timing, drop the compression to 7.5:1, or optimized to get nearly 10:1 using the enging to spin 150 amp 30v alternators to charge batteries when the sun isnt doing it. Sorry to ramble , i got carried away! It would be a heck of a project!! Have a awesome day!
@cruddycornstalks I also really like your Clinton content, it really inspired me to tackle and fix up the Clinton engines I have on my channel! I'm from Iowa as well, in the southern half
@@davidsrandr glad to here it! I kinda swayed away from making Clinton content because they never did very well and started keeping a lot of it to myself. But maybe I should start doing more of it again!
I think you did a Great Job, wow that was alot of Machine work for sure, did the kit come with any instructions and guidance for the job, what type of Steel did you use for making the valves? Again Awesome job Bud👍🏻
@@cruddycornstalks I was just curious about the valve steel, anyway it was a Awesome job you did building it, your Father must be proud of you and the work you do with engines 👍🏻
Hey im not a machinist but i am handy with tools and when i need something done i have a Japanese co worker that helps out. That job is a work of art comrade. Greetings from Chicago.
Good looking engine! The muffler is threaded into the wrong hole, the hole the muffler is in is for a cylinder drip oiler. Muffler threads into the cylinder head hole for exhaust valve
You did good work it turned out pretty good. I'm 72 years old master degree in mechanical engineering design. I know how it is working with something that small.
@@cruddycornstalks ... your skills are good I would make one suggestion after cleaning and machining the parts paint the areas not machined for better appearance
I'm desperately hopeful that you let a caster take a set of molds off that before you machined any of it. It would be a damned shame if it couldn't be reproduced in the future.
@pauld2672 as you were so desperately hoping that a set of patterns were made prior to maching, I am interested to know how much of your own time and money you would have contributed if such a pattern making exercise was necessary?
You can tell when I started using a little magnet light on some of the parts but I couldn't reshoot the parts I did without it. And. Then now I have a studio light to buy hot it after it was all said and done. Was my first time using the macro lens I got for this video to and I was way off on all my settings when it started. But not much I can do now.