I like how you show details! Alot of these guys act like we already know everything, like the one guy that fast forwards half his videos on disassembly and re assembly. Many viewers watch these videos because they don't know how things come apart or where things are located inside and I think it's great how you show it all! 👍
Thank you for telling everyone to turn the shaft clockwise. I watched 5 other videos. No one mentioned turning the shaft when putting the impeller cop on the impeller
I can't help myself, just got to lay some sealant on those gaskets and dielectric grease in the spark plug booths ... but that's me ! May I suggest that yiu do a video on a complete lubing / greasing of that motor as it is so critical in insuring its longevity. Stay safe and be merry !
As a 5 time OMC master tech, that is not how you do a water pump on a 4.5 to 8 hp Evinrude or Johnson. You need Adhesive M (847) on the gaskets. The impeller goes into the housing and liner first, then the gasket with Adhesive M (847) on the housing then the assy slides down over the Driveshaft and key. Gasket sealing compound or grease on the bolts.
These later models were nice because they had much stronger connecting rods than the earlier models with the aluminum rods, these engines really pack alot of power/speed considering their small size. These later models used a double seal setup on the lower seal to protect the driveshaft splines, which is why there is no groove for the driveshaft oring, because it isn't used. Nonetheless, rusted/seized splines are still an issue. It is so important to remove these gearcases once a year in salt water to clean and relube the splines. OMC used those non shoulder 7/16 head screws for awhile, probably a cost cutting measure. The shoulder screws work much better because the shoulder helps seal water out of the threads. Those screws looked dark in color, never seen that before. Some of these later model gearcases use a ball set up instead of the clutch dog, this was a failure, they eventually went back to the clutch dog. OMC ruined the most simple/rugged part on these engines, the carburetor. These modular carburetors were a cost cutting measure and unreliable when compared to the ultra simple carbs with the steel bowl. I was never a fan of these front shift/center mounted tiller set ups, the shifters were very touchy, too easy to jump from one gear to the other without stopping in neutral. Not a fan of the cheesy/cheap looking plastic engine cover and the flimsy latch either. But, I am "old fashioned" I guess. In spite of a few unforgiveable engineering/cost cutting flaws, these engines are great runners and develop plenty of power for their small size. This one had the same strange extension on the overboard water indicator hose, was it owned by the same person that owned the last one you worked on???
i just did one of these without any video and it doesnt work. ive also got gear oil coming out of it so i need to tear it down again and put all new gaskets in it. mines a 1984 but its the same thing from the looks of it. the instructions say to use gasket sealant on the two gaskets below the impeller housing so i used that. the motor runs with just half a pull of the cord. hope the lower end isnt screwed.
I removed the lower gear case from a 2000 8 hp Johnson but the drive shaft is still stuck in the power head. Any suggestions of how to remove it, as it is very stuck?
How is the shifting rod/connection set up on this engine? I find it takes more time to disconnect and then when assembly comes around to properly reconnect the shifting mechanism and associated linkage than any other part of separating the lower unit from the midsection in order to do this work.
I guess that depends in good parrt on storage conditions but over the years, I've found those impeller fins degrade more rapidly from prolonged storage (they set at a given angle and don't spring back anymore) then from use. Regards.
Same with me, I run a 2 cycle 15hp Yamaha in salt water. I get maybe 6 weeks of use out of the engine in the summer. After that short season the engine gets thoroughly winterized and stored for then next 10-10 1/2 months. Usually when I break it out the following season and start it up I end up having to change out the impeller again as it doesn't pump water. If I used mine year around I would expect to get several year use out of it. On outboards, regarding reliability, hard frequent use with minimal maintenance works out much better than letting them sit for years. That being said most of my problems come from the fuel, and fuel system (old and/or dirty fuel will cause headaches).
The water pump normally does not just quit. Most of the time it just pumps less and less water. This is one of the things to keep track of in the maintenance