The proper way to remove the flywheel in order to service the electronics. One of a series of tips. Please comment if you find it useful information. If you found my content useful, please consider a donation at paypal.me/spee...
Excellent advice! Have 3 (all 15 hp), one I inherited from my father, still runs perfectly and two with good compression I just couldn’t resist buying because its such a great outboard. Just 27 kilo’s , and integrated carrying handle give you 10 or 15 hp, with just minor difference in carb and exhaust. Typically a modern 4 stroke will be more than 50. Just a great little engine.
You are sooo right, so much bad information on the old interweb, "everyone is an expert" for sure, online! Those flywheels must be removed with a puller for all the reasons you mentioned. Although I do recommend using the OMC puller for many reasons, although I realize most DIY guys are probably not going to invest the big bucks for the OMC puller kit. The OMC puller kit comes with super hardened pieces, including the screws. The screws are also shouldered to prevent running regular screws too far down inside and possibly damaging ignition components. The impact gun is surely the way to remove the flywheel nut, but should not be used to reinstall it. I can't over emphasize how important it is to properly torque that flywheel nut during installation. Too loose, the flywheel key will shear which damages the crank/flywheel tapers. Too tight can actually distort the flywheel, driving it too far down on the tapers destroying it and ignition components. Impact guns should not be used to install flywheel nuts. You really need a large strap wrench to secure that flywheel so the nut can be accurately torqued in place. Don't forget to replace that plastic mag plate bushing (#322435), and lube it properly, during any ignition service work. You are right, these were great engines indeed, impossible to replace today. Rugged, reliable, and plenty of power in a small/light package.
Ok , I have to make a comment. Its obvious you had that flywheel oof before video. How do I know? I have 1990 6 hp Johnson and I just removed flywheel for the first time in 32 years. The first puller, like you were using, couldn't get job done. No way hold with tight wrench. Even with long screw drive its to hard. So next I used wheel puller 3 prong and braced with pry bar from twisting. It was Scary for sure! And when it went it was like a bomb went off! Wow! Its amazing how tight it was without nut holding it? Nothing damaged but sure scared hell out of me? They do not come off like yours in video No Way! And you know when you did it first time its an explosion! People watching this be very careful. Ty
Thanks for the comment. My real point was to show the correct method. I have seen where people ruin good parts because they don't know the proper tools to use. Yes, sometimes they can be a bitch, especially saltwater motors.
this is very helpful, thanks for the video. will the impact gun work for reinstalling it?? are there any special considerations when reinstalling the flywheel??
Make sure the shaft is clean and the key is in proper position. Place flywheel on shaft and torque to manufacturer specs. Keep the flywheel from turning by putting bolts in the holes you tapped and hold with a pry bar.
Only a couple minutes. You could try spraying a little "Blaster" on it and letting it sit a day or so if it is corroded on. Be sure to put lube on the center bolt of the puller, both on the threads and the contact tip. I used an impact driver on a properly fitting socket and it zipped off in a couple seconds. Using a wrench is hard to do because you just can't hold everything... Good luck friend. LMK how it turns out....
@@digitaloverdrivesystems I finally got the damn thing off,all is good now,Why isn't that little throttle cam made from aluminum it would save a lot of trouble that's for sure!
