I really should of bought this saw or one like it years ago.... It really does make the metal prep for a welding project more pleasant. So far I have about 80 cuts with the saw on various metal stock sizes and it's holding up well. I'll make sure to keep yall updated with the longevity of this saw as I use it. If yall are interested in buying the saw; here is the link - Evolution Cold Cut Chop Saw (R355CPS) - amzn.to/3hP0NSm
Well done review. My brother-in-law bought one of these and has been very happy with it. I have read that the blades wear pretty quickly, I hope you will let us know how they wear, because they are pricey.
I did a similar review of the Wen cold cut saw a little while ago. It had identical features to the Evolution but was a bit cheaper. The best part of the cold cutting saws that the abrasive saws can’t do it thick stock. I cut a 1”x4” solid bar in my test and it was perfectly straight. I wouldn’t even attempt that with an abrasive saw! 👍
One thing I don't think you mentioned, (and it was the biggest reason I made the same switch as you), is precision of angled cuts. The abrasive style traditional blade has a tendency to warp as it cuts, which makes crooked miter cuts. The steel blade on the cold cut saws cut perfectly every time. I've had mine for about a year and would NEVER go back.
Amazing machine. Have it for a year now at work. Cuts everything in seconds. One disclaimer though :don't cut stainless steel withe that blade or the blue steel blade. It will nock all the carbide theeth off. They have a special blade for stainless steel.
@@nahumkivshani4575 mine came with the orange Multipurpose blade But I wasn’t sure if I was able to use the blue blade instead of buying the orange one again
I just bought a chopsaw from porter cable the other week. Needed to be able to make straighter cuts for this Revolution grinder that has taken over my life.
I simply didnt know I couldnt make straight cuts with what I had. I am looking at some saw blades for, and they cost anywhere from half the saws price to almost twice the saws price. I sure hope people like the knives I'm making, theres a heckuva buy-in if you arent interested in struggling.
I have this saw and they're known to not cut true. The gate sets at nearly 92° instead of 90° and the deck on the base isn't flat. Run a straight edge over it and you'll see that the right side of the deck sits 1/32-1/16" higher than the rest of the deck. I was able to fix mine by grinding the right side down flat and bending the gate to 90° and welding in braces. It cuts extremely precise now but be aware there are a lot of complaints out there of what I just mentioned.
Off-topic: I would like to see you figure out how to add a SAK-style tweezers and toothpick to a bushcraft knife you made yourself. There is a firestarter rod that fits in one of those slots, too. I think this is well within your capabilities to both do, and show others how to do. A suggestion.
Thanks so Much for the video. I am just stepping into welding and metal fabrication. Can you please elaborate why I cannot use a standard mitre saw for cutting tube steel, L shaped steel, knives bar stock or flat stock? I was recently Given a second mitre saw and was planning on using it for metal. Thanks for all you do for the community!
@@RedBeardOps welcome :) I shot the same blade within a month cutting just iron and mild steel, then swapped to the blue one. Thanks for the content of your channel ;)
I have an odd question. I want to cut bigger dimension wood and was thinking I could use my chop saw. Only 14" blades for it that would cut wood are rated at about 1400 RPM, and the chop saw runs over 3500. can the lower RPM rated blade be run in the faster saw?
you forgot to mention the price difference between an abrasive blade and a metal blade. The abrasive blade is approx $5 at HF compared to $70+ per blade and not sure how long the sharpness of the metal blade will last. If the heat, time, and burrs are the issues with an abrasive blade, then I will settle with the abrasive due to the price per metal blade. For business-type work than would be worth having the metal blade but for personal use abrasive blade is more than adequate use.
Yeah, I'm not sure how many cuts you get out of the metal blade. But I would be willing to bet you'll be equal or ahead on dollars. Like you said, if the person makes that many cuts.
hello, i found a oblem withflexing on the back plate when you are tightening the materials to be cut, another was the tedious fact of moving the screw in and out, or debry on the threads just not falling off, have you experienced that?
I have experienced both the flex in the back plate and the slow movement of the screw. I think these are the limitations of the cheaper model here... their upper end model fixes these issues from what I can tell. To combat this I normally clamp with just enough pressure to hold the piece but not so much that I get a ton of flex. On the screw I think it's just a time consuming thing that we'll have to deal with.
How much quieter is it? Didn’t mention that. Abrasive saws are extremely loud (as my dewalt is). I’d imagine a lower rpm motor and the non abrasive blade would be quieter.. kinda like a bandsaw versus a cut of disk. Another point is that the revolutions don’t change resulting in faster cuts. Abrasives wear down making the disk smaller, has more torque but doesn’t cut as fast.
Hey Erik, I didn't measure the sound differences and wore hearing protection for most of the testing. I would think this saw is a little quieter. Good point on the abrasive disc changing size!
hey man, great stuff. I love watching you work. I have a similar shop (only add a tire hammer and a horizontal bandsaw). Your forge is nicer (I built my own, with a blower, but i used the rig from High temp tools. I am sure you know what I mean, since you probably considered it when you decided on which path to go). Forgive the ramble. I am also from Texas, but I am displaced up to CT. I miss Texas. It is very different in space, and spirit, from CT. Here is my point - I sometimes have trouble using the Evo on forged steel. I think it is because I am always using W2 or 80CrV2 or L6. I never have trouble with 1075 or 15N20. So, I think it is the vanadium and/or chromium carbides that have aggregated during forging. Plus, the L6 and 80CrV2 may be able to air harden in some spots. I find myself cycling just below critical two or three times, or if I have the time - like if it is the last forging round of the day - I put the steel in a kiln and give it a subcritical anneal. Then, I can cut the stock to length, and mill the opposing faces flat and square. Please let me know your thoughts and experiences. This seems like a small issue, but it eats up a lot of time (I don't have a cold cut chop saw, I hate the mess).
Great Video, I am looking for one for quite a while. Unfortunately Amazon US charges 180 bucks just for shipping and fees....🤦♂️ so please excuse If I don‘t use your affiliate link....😜
Man, there are some use cases where I'd grab the abrasive over the cold cut, but I gotta say I wish I would of bought one of these cold cuts a while ago!
