Is it possible to swap the Facelift i30N’s headunit into the Pre-facelift i30N? I find out for myself. Post Edit Note: Rev Matching Can’t be toggled On or Off in N Custom Mode
Great video mate saved me a good bit of trial and error , ive just got hold of a 2017 i30n performance with 21 facelift front end , having trouble trying to get the lights to work at the minute , if you have any knowledge on how to get these 21 lights working on the 17 model I'd really appreciate it
hi, can you tell me if I can replace from 8 to 10.25 units on kona 2022 and if plug & play only (from 8 without navi to 10.25 with navi from other kona). I need specific connector? thank, I hope you help me.
If I have the smaller head unit (~5") without CarPlay (from a less featured 2017 i30 without the 8" unit or newer you show here), can I replace it to gain Apple CarPlay? I would absolutely love that! But don't know if it needs any code(s) entered or other setup requirement. Ideas?
@@jamesfrazer4 I managed to replace it with succes, together with the USB plug. Didn't require any codes. Just worked. But a rewiring was needed. Apple CarPlay working fine.
Hey mate, I did the upgrade on my Premium NA 2.0 4 CYLINDER i30 from 8 inch to 10.25inch. It works perfectly fine the annoying (battery discharging thing will come up) I also have an issue where my car interior light went completely off while driving on the highway and it came back on after turn the car off and on. The reverse camera is blurry compared to factory 8inch. Recently had an issue where the under revved when I turned it on and started shaking. I’m suspicious the 10.25 inch stereo is consuming too much power/ electricity compared to 8inch normal ones. I’ll keep you posted, I’m going to Hyundai dealer tomorrow to talk about the issues and I’m heading to battery shop to check battery condition, because i bought a brand new battery 2 months ago.
Have you found a solution for that? I'm starting to investigate it, for sure we have GPS antenna/module missing, but do you know if there is anything more?
@@Choobaka 1. When choosing the frame, make sure it’s also from the facelift model. If it’s pre-facelift, the hazard/lock buttons have a different shape. 2. Android Auto/Carplay won’t work without changing the USB/AUX module. Cars with AA and Carplay have a different module with different connectors and cables at the back. Make sure to buy a new cable for this module, running directly from the module to the stereo. Additionally, you’ll lose the aux functionality and the illumination on the USB module. 3. Some functions won’t work plug and play. For instance, you’ll get an intermittent error related to the car battery. This is because a pin’s position changed, and the navigation system thinks the battery is low. It can be resolved from the navigation system’s service menu. 4. Cars with built-in navigation also have a different GPS antenna. Those without it won’t display the time on the navigation system (set via GPS). After starting the car, you’ll see the last position on the map before the navigation was disconnected. It recovers in a few seconds as it gets the location from the phone. In summary, besides the navigation, here’s what you need for full functionality: 1. Purchase a USB module + a special cable for Android Auto. 2. Get an aftermarket GPS antenna with an Fakra connector; it will function just like the original. 3. Buy a male-to-female adapter with pins specially designed for Hyundai from AliExpress.
I did the swap too, but have no sound 😢 I think the bigger screen models in Australia need an amp to run.. they have a “Infintity” premium audio logo on them.
@@beaumunroe1827 yeah I think the premium Models have have different audio specs which has an amp. I gave up and swapped back when I saw the price of the amp from the wreckers.
@jacekim98 apart from the DCT related issues (i.e. Not able to set rev matching in N mode, acceleration timer not working, gear box temp not working etc) everything works. Can still adjust all aspects of N mode but rev matching. Blue link kinda works but not really and you get the battery drain warning when stationary. My guess is you won't have these issues if you swap a manual headunit instead
@@aSidney ah ok yes that’s not too bad. In fact I’ve found my amplifiers stay powered up for 2 mins after turning the car off so I’d say it’s the same circuitry involved
Bluelink initially didn't work but a few weeks after the last software update it randomly started working but it's function is limited: I've set it up but I cannot link my account to the profile as it can't send an SMS with a code to link them, and I can't use the remote control features to control the car's functions to lock and unlock or any of similar other functions