FAIL - Lunchbox Locker Install 

Great job! But never use grease to hold the shimms in place, just a thin layer of 80w90 will do. Grease is too thick and will not measure properly...

That extra 0.001 was the 6 different applications of grease

Here's an idea. Fit everything dry then do your measurement. Then take everything back out and lubricate it.

Guess you ain't done this before cause you',re guessing. Spartan are the only ones I use. Those shim washers are omitted in Spartain install. Why is your video labled "fail" ?? You only lightly lube with oil not grease on the drive gears. I think these tutorial videos should be sharing knowledge. Not guessing. Hope you learn. Bye

My butchery.....used d30 ring and pinion....all used bearings and shims...even reused the pinion seal. No dial indicator. Set clearance and all on pinion and diff by hand. Installed lock rite no measuring. It lived and i drove the hell out of it.i figured worst case? 150 bux here for a whole d30 from junkyard. I had to have been in the ballpark on all of it. Never blew up, burned up of failed. Lmao true story

Would mocking it up without the grease just to check your tolerances and then reassemble with grease once you are sure you are in spec be a better idea?

HAHAHAHA "AvE machinist type."

Where’s the rest of the locker this would never turn the wheels 🤦‍♂️

Is no one gonna acknowledge that the way it was installed wouldn’t even have turned the axles at all!

Mechanical come to the lord moment: *throws hands up "fuck this shit I don't know what I'm doing!" - been there dood.

Just gonna grease these lightly... half tube of grease later.

You don't use the factory thrust washers when using this style locker!!!!.

It's way better to be to small of a gap than to big u would have been fine to run it the people who have problems are the ones that have a way to big of a gap then it can jump teeth and destroy it I have put them together that was so tight I had to drive the pin in with a hammer and they work way good just don't ratchet as ez

AvE would have been proud at how you "machined" your shims it's under the "scumbag offsets" page on his channel😂

I honestly beleive if you just would have installed it with everything like it was it would have worked fine. Think about it you were adding clearance by thinning the spacers. And just my opinion it would be more likely to round the teeth if it was looser in that area . I would feel more comfortable with it being too tight. And yes i have installed a locker like that in a gm 12 bolt though. Either way good video its educational to see what issues someone has when doing something like this. Im watching locker installs because im about to put a spartan locker in the front of my samurai.

Good find! Can’t wait to see how an actual working automatic rear locker performs! Thanks for the shout out man! Huge thanks!

Wait, you were making it a point that those "spacers", thrush washers had to go back on the same side in the same orientation, then you sanded them down. I can tell you the thrush washers don't care where they go, they are meant to keep the two hard surfaces from rubbing against each other, they are sacrificial, thus you are sanding them down.Also don't these things have springs? Seems like you are overthinking it.

Did you ever install lockers? I couldn’t find a video showing it so just checking in via the squawk box. I want to know if they’re too loud, and if I should just invest in other style lockers. Thanks! 🐞❤️🐞

If you would have put it together like that it would have been fine. Too tight is better than loose on lunch box lockers.

13 minutes gone with no helpful information gained. 👎

I bet if you had did a dry fit with no grease on any surfaces it would have measured 1 or 2 thousandths bigger and been in spec.

You know those teeth have to engage with something, right. That's not how this works.

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Well now I know what locker not to use. Seems like a Spartan locker that is already all together would be the way to go. It actually has teeth on the gears. But I guess that's the difference in a 70 dallor locker verses a 250. dallor locker. Good luck to you man. All of us that know how to work on our own trucks have all been in a similar situation.

I did not use the Thrush washers on my install.locker works fine without washers.

Place the locking collar in with it at the same time Do the ring gear side first then rotating the right side lock ring so the pin wholes can line up then rotate to ware you can insert the pin and locking bolt Now check the clearance between the locking rings

Yap it was going great until the pin was put in ahead of the horse Those locking rings need to be placed in before the pin and before you check anything

Keep it secret, keep it safe klauss. Wtf is going on here klauss. Ur grease was .001 klauss. What in the name of all good and holy is going on here klauss.

The lucnhbox locker I installed 20 years ago said NOT to use the side shims.

.005” - .020” is pretty wide open... I wouldn’t have sweated the loss of .001” with those tolerances. It was most likely the application of the grease that put it over max allowance. The use of the power sander was a big no-no lol. I’ll have to check the next video.

I have lost rear diffs in trucks , that’s why a real truck had 4wd ! Lock them hubs ! LoL

So, what does this Locker do when it gets installed properly?

Soy de costa rica hay quien lo distribuya este loker san jose costa rica Franco, lobo

Have you tried measuring the clearances without the thrust bearings? I've used Spartan lockers in the past. With those ones... It says you don't need the thrust bearings. I threw them in without checking them and they did great. I probably should have checked the clearances but I didn't.

I'm glad now you crawled around the wet floor cause I'll never get that time back lol git !!!!! At least I know never to add a locker to mine bro 😂😂😂just a thought though why not reduce the spacer down 🤔🤔🤔🤔? Your thoughts ?

As a genuine machinist, sometimes you just gotta do what you gotta do.

Yeah loose the grease

First mistake was putting an autolocker on a snow and ice rig.

Where is the follow up video?? Did you ever install it?

looked like you were measuring it wrong

Oh and should have gone with an Aussie locker lol that’s what I have in the rear of my JK

That would been fine and geuratnee you de grease it all and it would been in spec

If one wheel stuck, how acting this type locker. Actually I want to know can I install this locker with cutting break( Fiddle break).

any machinist could have taken a few thou off the new gears where it mates to the thrust washer

Glad to see someone else has commented on the use of grease. Just hydro lock things with gear oil.

Great video Eric!

I would have done these measurements without the grease. Just clean.

Why don't you start with putting the rest of the locker in before you go to grinding shims and bolting in the center pin?

Get rid of this video,please.

I installed a similar style locking mechanism in a Honda transmission probably around 15 years ago.. the spider gears had a casting line on them that kept the parts from fitting. I literally took them to the belt sander and smoothed them out. Took my time and got them "eyeball" perfect. Trans is still running to this day. Funny thing is I was picturing sanding those "rings" on the bench like you did with the shim. LOL.

Your are no suppose to use spacers

Did u try and measure it without any grease on it ? Also if you’re gonna have to sand something down flat try putting your sandpaper on a thick piece of glass on a flat surface and wetting the sandpaper

I installed an Aussie locker in my Dana 30 with a new carrier and used the stock shims (.003). My clearance between my spacer and pin is .028/.026. so I'm puzzled on assembly when it calls for .006 to .020. any suggestions?

I got this this kit when I built my Dana 60 its not cheap but for what you pay for this they should include the spacer shims (thrust washers) , I was just a bit over the max tolerance .I called the tech line which itself was a task to find !!! I think max clearance between the pin was .170 of an inch and mine was like 175 ,they said yeah that's a bit it much you have to replace them, I said why don't you included a set with the kit? Max thickness for the dana 60 you can get is 30 th and I would and like to get.35th thick for mine. I was told the thickest is 30th and if that doesn't work maybe your carrier is worn! So you basically get 15th a side to be within spec.? I said they made tons of these dana 60s ! no two castings can be exact ? dana has tolerances too when they are cast ! anyway I finally found .30 shims new and that got me around .163 and in spec , but you pay almost 500.00 for this kit and they cant give you shim sets? I'm a few months away from getting this build on the road and then we can see how good this kit is. BUT is I was to do this over I would have just called someone like Moser and I could have had a brand new rear built drum to drum complete for under 3000,00 !!! But the time I found an old dana 60 , then buy new gears. Bearings ,axles tubes,ends,drum kit and locker ....and all the labor and time it took to build this from scratch I'm probably cost me more !!! and I would have not used this stupid power trax kit !!!

Glad you came to your senses!

A lot of times less undesirable work is better than more desirable work. Kind of like driving past 3 gas stations, 6 miles away, just to save 2 cents per gallon on fuel haha

Hello it is a AMC20?

You should have been good but that layer of geese was the diff. Also you’ll never get a true “honing” if that spacer with sand paper... better buy a kit or spacers if needed but I don’t think you needed new ones just less grease. Good luck and thanks for the video that you CAN do this without pulling the diff!!!!

I have a Factory LSD Chrysler 8.25 (27 spline) in my 94 XJ with a little over 200k Miles. I use it for winter driving with some rare mudding. It's needing a refresh, Would you recommend keeping it with new Clutches or switching to a locker?

Great attempt man, good thinking to pull the plug when you did. The way you were going at that grinder, I was hoping that we wouldn’t see your fingers releasing the red schmoo all over your workbench 😉

I 100% recommend a Lincoln Lock if you decide to go that way it flat out works IF done right......

Every kit I've seen they lose the thrust bearings all together. You don't need em. That's why you're just outside of tolerances

no washers

I bet you put that locker in and have no problems. Dry fit. Dry fit. Dry fit.

I have a Chinese van DFSK, can you place that differential? Or directly I change it for another one that has autoblocante?

I installed a LockRight into a Geo Tracker and it needed thinner shims. I wish they would have made them to where the stock shims work. Guarantee you that some guys just run no shims .

you could have pulled the carrier out and put it on the bench.....no? and dude, sanding the spacer like that is so bad. it will not be perfectly flat when your done. Thanks for sharing thou.

Don't know about Jokka, but it sure looks like Richmond Gear PowerTrax which is junk. Wears out in a couple years. Just outside the warranty period. If you care about you money don't buy their junk!

well did you do it? you do not need those spacers

how did you remove the pin? my molten pin touches the teeth of the crown

it's a good idea to have a variety of shims

Interesting I just watched the dude that trashed the used locker just before I watched yours.... Good luck getting it going... But I've never needed lockers to plow with my 03 ram 1500??

Does anyone know how to put in the yellow little locker springs to hold the spider gears?

Does this really work

a pinch of salt

Should have left the thrust washers alone and adjust the face of the spacer that mates to driven gear. Mine spec'd out nicely and has been running strong in my Mountaineer for over 3 years now.

Tolerances are super important glad JTM could help you he is a really awesome guy with a great channel.

you are missing parts

PLOW JEEP? WTH? Locker? WTH? I need to be your neighbor! I have so much to learn! Excellent information sir.

Did you ever end up doing it? I can't find the video

You are crazy man! Can't wait to see what else you do to your plow jeep

There is a reason why people usually put them in the front. They are noisy and are generally horrible to daily drive. If you tow with it, it will take some getting used to the involuntary lane changes while accelerating. A much better option is the Torsen style locker. You get the best of both worlds with that style locker. Costs a bit more and you do replace the carrier, so it would take a next level wrench rating to install but well worth it. I have one in my Camaro and my Yukon and absolutely love it. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-JEiSTzK-A2A.html . I have a "lunch box" locker in the front on my Yukon. If I didn't have locking hubs I would NOT install one of these in front either because of the handling problems. I would opt for the much more expensive OX or ARB. I love the locking hubs too bad modern manufactures had to dumb it down for the soccer moms.