Famous molecules in perfumery - Coumarin

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My perfumery course: www.perfumerystudent.com/
Shop perfumery supplies: thefragrancefoundry.com/
Download my perfumery app for free: formulair.app/
My perfume brand: zur.ai/
IFRA Standards library: ifrafragrance.org/safe-use/li...
Timestamps:
00:00 - Intro
00:30 - History of coumarin
01:30 - Coumarin in Fougères
02:35 - Usage in perfumery
04:05 - Safety & how to find the IFRA limit
07:16 - Bicyclononalactone / Octahydrocoumarin alternative
08:33 - Evaluations
12:09 - Outro
Join our community of perfume makers on discord to share tips on perfume making: / discord
Listen to the video as a podcast: anchor.fm/sam-macer
Instagram accounts:
@sam.macer - / sam.macer
@zurai.official - / zurai.official
@thefragrancefoundry - / thefragrancefoundry
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Опубликовано:

2 июл 2024

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Комментарии : 61

@dwsel 2 года назад

I love the in depth way you explain things. Huge perfumery career ahead of you.

@sammacer 2 года назад

Thank you!

@cryptidsNstuff 7 месяцев назад

Sam, you are my fav youtuber.

@andyrnb4923 2 года назад

Great video Sam. You made me reexamine bicyclononalactone as I thought I hated it. To me it was like C18 without the coconut - the waxy dry part. I've just compared the two and I think you are right about it being between coumarin and C18. I now see the dry herbaceous woody aspect. I think originally I was unhappy with it as I had been aiming for coconut. Look forward to seeing your coumarin formulas. I recently used it to produce a powdery woody male talc-like accord with ethyl vanillin, sandalore, timbersilk, lyral and ethylene brassylate.

@sammacer 2 года назад

Glad that this prompted you to revisit it! Nothing better than finding a new aspect to a raw material you previously decided you didn't like.

@joshadams1551 2 года назад

Great video man, love the history!

@sammacer 2 года назад

Cheers

@bergsveinnolafsson8101 2 года назад

Greetings Sam, I absolutely love your videos and your passion to share your knowledge. You make the world a better place! Watching the video I got inspired to investigate the chemical compound of different citruses by first downloading chemical analysis of different citrus EO's and then buying those AC's available. Start blending, building, and by that learning more about citrusses. Taking into account that the ratio of AC in EO's vary from different region in addition from year to year I think this might be an interesting project to pursue.

@sammacer 2 года назад

Thank you! That sounds like a nice project. You should check out my video on making a bergamot accord if you didn't already as I looked at that to some degree. Let me know how it goes!

@Inisiarev Год назад

The scent of coumarin is awesome. I love it and with labdanum they are my favourite notes. The IFRA is a bummer. The sweetness nowadays is done by exchanging coumarin with ethyl maltol in a lot of cases. Sweet as well, however not even close. Ps. the proposed bicyclononalactone + benzaldehyde smells great too.

@sammacer Год назад

I’ll have to try that combo, thanks! I can see it working

@Sergiotejido 6 месяцев назад

Am learning a lot from your videos. thanks for this information.

@SchoolofScent Год назад

Comprehensive video, loved the structure and topics covered, thanks for sharing! Coumarin usually comes in powder form, do you know why this is and how long can it be 'kept' once diluted with perfumers alcohol?

@sammacer Год назад

Thank you! Yes, just some raw materials are naturally solids; think of it more as there is no reason they must be a liquid. There’s no way to know how long something will keep in alcohol without testing it but many things will keep for well over a year.

@superaak 2 года назад

Good information. Thank you.

@sammacer 2 года назад

No problem

@trebila64 2 года назад

Hello Sam, thank you for all your videos always touch on interesting and useful topics. most formulas have many components and it is not possible to have them all at hand, I wonder if you will have some list of substitutes because I have not been able to get information about it. thank you in advance for your help.

@sammacer 2 года назад

Thanks Javier. Unfortunately I don't have such a list. I don't think there's ever an ideal substitute but sometimes there can be fairly good ones. I don't use formulas I find online myself very often at all and this is one of the reasons. The only advice I can give is to focus on your own creations with what you have instead of making formulas you find.

@trebila64 2 года назад

@@sammacer thanks 👍

@meghayadav9774 2 года назад

I am big fan of perfume and big fan of you 😊💫

@sammacer 2 года назад

Thank you!!

@texasfan8892 2 года назад

Thank you so much for pointing out which of the IFRA categories to go by. I like to use coumarin in my blends but I never understood which of the IFRA categories to go by so I would always go with the most stringent just to be safe. It seems that I could've used a lot more.

@sammacer 2 года назад

Yep - it says deep in the guide somewhere 😅

@mybad4101 2 года назад

I'm a Coumarin junkie! I love Alexandria II, which is full of it. Bycyclo is not my cup of tea, still looking for a good way to use it.

@sammacer 2 года назад

Yeah I knows what you mean - it is pretty different, probably the closest we have though unfortunately

@tessselllate 5 месяцев назад

Funnily enough the specific fern you showed actually does have a scent! It's a hay fern and smells kind of like hay if you crush it up in your hand.

@sammacer 5 месяцев назад

Oh cool - obviously I just got an image from the internet. When I smell crushed ferns I find them to be very green.

@thiagoribeiropereira3229 2 года назад

To avoid problems and work more easily I always use coumarin diluted to 1%.

@sammacer 2 года назад

Yeah me too, I completely agree

@nams37 2 года назад

Thank you

@estudiopaoloremedy 2 года назад

Gracias !

@mastermaly1 Год назад

Dzięki:)

@Audreylalaland Год назад

I think I’m in love . Do you sell courses ?

@sammacer Год назад

Not at the moment - but maybe in the future!

@generic_cat 2 года назад

Hello I was wondering if you know of any website that has perfumery ingredients and can tell you all known binary relationships between other ingredients (if it goes well with them or not) Something like a network of ingredients, maybe there could be voting on the relationships from other users. That would be really cool. Just imagine you could put the ingredients you have into the website, and it would tell you which things go well with each other. Thanks for letting me know if there's something like this available publicly.

@sammacer 2 года назад

I don't know of anything like this that exists already. It's a great idea though. I think something like this would be cool to add in a website version of Formulair in the future if the current app gains enough traction

@5wm562 Год назад

Not sure how the IFRA site is supposed to work but on my mobile it doesn't seem to. If you do get any hits on a search term the site will say so but doesn't display them. What am I doing wrong?

@sammacer Год назад

Strange, have you tried the desktop version?

@5wm562 Год назад

@@sammacer Yep. ya did. Missed that one! :P