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Most users forget that just like a road car, your sim racing gear needs maintenance. From your sim rig to your wheel rim, sometimes they must resist a lot of stress (force). So always check on regular bases your equipment. Video's like yours are great, they point out where to dubble check your equipment.
While I partially agree here, the CSL DD is a brand new product and shouldn't be suffering from such issues. The Fanatec DD1 and DD2 also suffer from similar QR problems such as random jolting and clicking on brand new units. On top of that, competing products like the Simucube 2 wheelbases don't require maintenance, it just works.
also many people steer the wrong way. In real racing, you push the wheel forward to steer (like if you gonna turn right, your left hand is pushing the wheel to turn right). If you pull the wheel (which many people do) you will get tired in your arms, and there is a possibility that you move the shaft out a few micrometers every time until it disconnects.
I found that using a little lithium grease on the motor spindle and inside the QR stops all the unsettling creaks and knocks from happening. The binding of the plastic against the shaft will also create extra stress as it releases its grip and jolts. Since lubricating the joint it's felt perfectly solid.
Thats right, I tried to tighten the screws on qr-steering wheel but that didnt helped so I add some silicon spray grease inside that part of qr which turn around and also on the metal shaft of the base and now its quiet.
@@MowadHobby It fixed it for me immediately, the difference is amazing, not had a single knock or creak since. It was a very worrying feeling and sound given the reddit posts showing broken QR's. Not overtightening is still good advice to follow, but a little grease on the motor shat to eliminate binding can't hurt.
It feels like a completly new experience. Much smoother and no noise at all. Thank you mate, really good tip. Do you mind if I cover this in a follow-up video, I want to give credits to you on this.
Great video, Fanatec should include these tips with their product. I own a few Fanatec products, including the CSL DD with Boost and the McClaren GT3 wheel with plastic release, and a wheel with the metal QR. I just follow Fanatec’s instructions on the GT3 wheel and don’t overtighten. I used a silver sharpie to mark the sweet spot on the top of the QR release and never go beyond. I think the tendency is to over-tighten it because its easy to do and seems necessary on a DD wheel. I mounted mine to a Sim Lab TR1 rig and it does not vibrate or budge. By the look of your desk setup, there’s WAY too much movement. I liken that to driving fast down a pot-hole filled road for miles and expecting that the car’s suspension wont be affected.
Brilliant! Solved my problem! Shaft had come out of CSL DD clamp slightly. Undid clamp, pushed back in and all is working again. Thank you for this video :)
Placing a small strip of electrical tape down the center of the CSL DD wheel base shaft, where the indent is, perhaps that is a quarter of an inch wide and 3/4 of an inch long, is one of the better fixes for the creaking feel on QR-1 Lite (plastic quick release) when going into corners, this is not a noise it a feeling. This has been covered on Fanatec's own forum, and people have used it as an excuse to RMA, or if unable to RMA due to out of warranty they stick with the electrical tape mod fix. It should only be noticeable using the 8nm Boost Kit on the CSL DD with any wheel.
I saw a video of a guy who tripped over the brake pedal cable and pulled out the pedal port on the base, so a tip: Don't trip over the wires, make sure you manage the cables, the ports on these things seem to be very weak.
Working in Engineering and seeing what aluminium costs, it’s an absolute liberty in 2022 that Fanatec are not providing metal QRs with every wheel as standard. They are penny pinching just like with the £25 PSU and it shows. This company needs competition to keep standards high but drive down pricing.
Ill be damn happy to test one of those things if they ll ever accept sending me one unit for a review. Price / quality looks really good. Do you like it?
Yeah. The only concern would be the long term use of the product and the support that they can provide. We laugh a lot at Fanatec but they’re an established brand, and even though many says their customer support sucks I think they’re way ahead of new brands because of the different types or situations they experienced in the past. But as I said, the chinese product looks promising as hell!
Did everything on your videos and nothing was working until I noticed the bolts on my quick release were loose 😅😅😅 thank God nothing broke. Now with the adjustment and your tips feels awesome. Also I did put some electrical tape on the shaft groove, that helped a lot with the clunking noise I used to have. Great stuff!!
I use a piece of electrical tape stuck down onto the centre groove. This removes the very tiny amount of slop in the fitting that causes the wheel rim to knock slightly when turning hard one way and then hard the other. Probably only an issue for 8Nm users.
@@ptr805 sorry missed this. It is very obvious where to put the tape. When you remove the wheel from the shaft you can see a obvious groove in the aluminium. Just cut a length of electrical tape and place it along the length of the groove.
Just got my DD pro and i noticed this. Good to know im not alone and that its just the adapter. I was worried my wheelbase was defective and that it was on its way to the grave cause i heard fanatec sent out a bad batch of wheelbases recently 😅
I also found that my mounting screws came loose over time. Mine came loose mainly because the table clamp sucks. After fixing that, I found my QR lite screws loose just before a race, so I scrambled to tighten them just before an endurance race. CHECK THEM REGULARLY!
I've been using the QR1 Lite since launch without issue, there's less shaft/wheel wobble than the QR1, plus its lighter and feels more responsive. Also there's no messing about with screws and such. I did replace the shaft clamp with a two part clamp, I've had no issues with the shaft coming out. I think there's a wide range of tolerances on these various parts, you're not always going to get a pairing that's the best possible fit.
When they announced those cheap plastic things I wasn’t happy gotta buy a metal quick release from them, if you want high torque mode on your Big DD you have to have the metal quick release
I have the same issue. Received the same info with video and photos from Fanatec’s technical support, but the issue remains. I also have the power button flashing blue/ Play Station mode/ and the back of the wheel base becomes hot together with the disconnection, after less than 1 minute of play. Also I smell lite burning smell when I get close my nose to the upper part of the back of the wheel base. No smoke, just smell. I don’t even change steering wheels, I use the ClubSport 320 only with the metal QR1 and safety screw always in. Running 7.2Nm FFB either not the full 8NM and everything is mounted to a solid rig, no play anywhere. Waiting on Fanatec’s next step, but I am very frustrated . I didn’t spent $2000 for equipment to play engineer, I have spent them to play racing, otherwise I could’ve buy a LEGO!
I had some slack between the wheel and the shaft I turned the screw a 180 degrees more which is not how it's supposed to work but it will tighten the wheel far better and now there is no more slack in the wheel. Be cautious though. Overtightening it could damage the qr1
Also dont forget with the metal QR1, you need to use the safety screw that came with the wheel cause so it won't disconnect after a few MMs of movement from racing
Thank you!! I came across your vid after my WRC wheel did what happened to you I had no idea what was going on 😅 Now I'm back in business I'm afraid I'm inadvertently pulling the wheel towards me in tight corners
I have been using my two QR lite connectors for over a year. You are doing something wrong if you break the connector. I swap my wheels at least 6 times a day for over a year. Turn your ffb down or spend the $99 and buy the metal one. Stop using your wheel to haul your butt in and out of your rig. That will fix 99% of the problem.
My new CSL DD comes yesterday and alignment is broken. Pins from CSL P1 V2 don't go deep enough into the base slot. I tested it by removing quick release and connecting wheel directly to the base. Everything works fine. When I add quick release and try to connect it to the base pins are touching slot just slightly causing bug in software. Fanatec control panel goes into 'No fanatec device found' mode and I cant do anything. Cant event change mode on base. Only fix is to restart it. I tested it in an additional way by again removing quick release and trying to connect wheel to the base just slightly and boom again the same issue - 'No fanatec device found'. The problem can be caused by three things. Male socket on wheel side is to short / female socket od shaft in base is pushed too much / quick release create too much space between wheel and base. I wrote to support but I'm still waiting for a response
Is this a wheel that can get issues or might not be reliable? I know fanatecs quality is really good and all but I just ordered a csl dd and am wondering if it might be anything like thrustmaster wheels which can get problems or break.
We cant know for sure how good is the csl dd reliability since its not even been an year from the official launch, however I dont think you should worry about this because only a small minority have had nasty issues with it. As you saw in the video some of those can be avoided, and, in case there’s some unusual problem with your wheel, Fanatec will replace it. So don’t fret, my advice would be to make sure you re aware of the common issues until your wheel arrives so you’ll know how to avoid them if possible and thats it. Also be aware that many people bricked their csl dd while flashing the firmware update. Pay extra attention to that!
I have CSW v2.5 and never ever before any problem with FFB and overall with wheel. About month ago I decided sell my F1 wheel because I really like maclaren wheel dimensions and because I'm racing ACC was just must have wheel. That was big mistake 😞 When wheel arrive to me I have massive issue with FFB, literlly gone every lap for second or two and slowly back. I opened ticket for issue and after two weeks mailing with support one of the pin snapped and shifters stop working at all. Fanatec trying to move some responsibility on my side, they say my CSW is used equipment so they need inspect it. This is ridiculous because I never ever has any problem with my F1 wheel. If I decide send only wheel to fix they not cover warranty any more if problem back in the future. Now I'm stuck with broken wheel and I'm waiting, I'm waiting because fanatec support don't have enough people on board to respond for emails. Another week and still waiting. I'm very disappointed, support is not exist basically.
Just got my CSL with the plastic QR. There is a knocking noise when changing direction, it’s because there is a little bit of play between the wheel base channel where the wheel slides into. Do you think this will be an issue? I’m worried about it breaking the pins.
Explain a bit about the noise. When does it happen? (At each turn / specific turns), provide as many details as you can if you can. In my case the noise happens just at high ffb turns
If you have some lithium grease (like supplied in the brake performance kit) apply a small amount to the motor spindle and the inside of the QR. This will stop the binding and unsettling releasing sensation of the plastic against the shaft. It will also reduce stress caused to the QR. Since lubricating the shaft mine has felt perfect, no creaks, nice and solid.
@@rossimessi1 I'd rather use lubrication than tape. Making the shaft fit more tightly is having the same effect as overtightening in relation to adding extra stress to the plastic QR. After using a small amount of grease and removing the binding between on connection and feeling the difference, it's comparable to the change from 5nm to 8nm. Honestly, I went from being slightly disappointed to being amazed.
I forgot to take a look at the clamp bolt before I reposition the shaft for the first time. so now I don’t know how tight should I tighten it. I don’t wanna damage the bolt or even worse the nut inside the clamp. Are these bolts and nuts user replaceable?
I have a question. I am moving from my Logitech g29 as I am very bored of its FFB and want to move to a dd wheel but all these issues are pushing me away from fanatec and towards other brands like moza, however the fanatec is cheaper and provides me with an upgrade path (8NM boost kit) but seems to have all these problems (which I cannot be bothered to deal with and probably break) and also reports of the software not being very beginner friendly. Any advice will be welcome.
HELP: Im having ffb drop mid race then coming back in 2 seconds or so just like you explained however this is happening on my csw v2.5. that has no shaft clamp so im not sure what to do to fix this. ive tried tightening the wheel and base screws, ive tried usb 3.0 and 2.0 ports. no im not using a usb hub. i tried grounding the base to my rig.
I just sent my Logitech G920 back to Amazon as it stopped giving force feedback. I was going to get the Fanatec CSL DD but hearing too many bad things. Maybe I will just go for the Logitech G923.
I have a problem that sometimes (once a week or two) steering wheel stop working and none of the button works like on one of your videos (except that I cant steer the car, and ffb still works then). Even keyboard doesnt work. But the game is still working, just cant do anyhing with the car or exit to windows (only pedals works fine). All I can do is to turn off computer by button on PC case. When computer turns on again everything works fine by a few days.
Ok, thats good, avoid using usb hubs as well. If nothing else works at this point I would do a fresh windows install, it will solve it for sure if its a software issue.
@@GitGudRacing before I do that I wrote to fanatec support. I noticed that plastic QR bends a bit when I fight with steereing wheel and high ffb, maybe then it disconnects sometimes. It happens only when I turn, never on straights so I think it is possible.
My wheel keeps disconnecting and tightening the shaft fixed it for a moment but I cannot finish even 1 race without it moving a few millimeters and disconnecting again. I just ordered a proper tool so I can tighten it more. Do you know if the QR2 would fix this? It is really annoying because I cannot play anything :/
0:57 if you want a long term relationship with this thing you'll have to be gentile. 2:58 inspect your shaft frequently. 3:40 WTF the movement! is that dd balanced on your shaft. Jk tbf some quality advice there bud, just waiting for mine, thx for the tips.
The biggest issue I have is the wheel with the QR lite. It is loose and is really annoying when driving. I have tried the tape on top but it doesn’t seem to work. Help me please.
Quick question tho. You didnt mention this issue but on high torque moments the slit at the top has a little bit of play and kan make a little clicking sound and haptically feel a click. It's really annoying, I've seen users online with this issue and they said that with the qr1 lite shipped after August 2021 this will not happen. I just received my qr1 lite and mclaren gt3v2 and it still does :/. Some people tape mod this but that would make switching wheels basically impossible. Any1 got a fix for this? I'll call Fanatec tomorrow about this and about my csl dd powersupply having massive coil whine. Hopefully they send me a new psu and a new qr1 lite. From what I've heard you can keep the old quick release adapter but youre supposed to send back the Powersupply
@@MiPDarnok as far as the coil whine goes, it disappeared in like a week so its fine now. The issue with the qr1 lite was too annoying for me so I eventually just bought the clubsport quick release. At the end of the day we are using fairly premium products, so cheaping out on a core component doesnt make sense to me. I'd rather buy the proper product. The clubsport QR is also not perfect but a lot better.
Very disappointed in the quality of my DD Pro because of this type of issue. My G29 is like new after two years of same use, and this more expensive wheel started having this issue after just a few months. I would have waited and bought the new Logitech DD wheel if I ever anticipated such problems.
Still using my G25 bought in 2006!! Ordered a CSL DD as a replacement, dreading the potential issues already I still can cancel the order and maybe opting for the Moza R5/R9...
If we change to the metal one, is there any issues? I’m asking myself to change my G29 to the dd pro or the Moza R9… but I really don’t know which one to take
I dont have any issues with the metal QR mate. Don't know about monza, on paper seems like a better choice, higher ffb and that formula wheel looks stunning!
@@GitGudRacing thank you. I really like the Moza , but in term of sensation, you have a better feeling of the car, compatibility , easy setup and switch through games with the Fanatec dd pro but a better road feeling with the moza (and better quality materials…). The thing I really love on the Moza is the quick release. That’s why I’m keep thinking of which one to take… any idea?
I prefer the old red qr from my v2 f1 wheel, much better then this plastic and no weird noises, this is below fanatec standards they should introduce a quick release like asetek simsports.
what if the problem is not my clamp!? for me its still disconecting randomly even after 1hr of use, clamp still tight as alwaya even more wierd, i never had this issue with PS5. only when playing AC
my shit turned off for 20 minutes last night out not turn back on no matter what plug i put it in or how many times i recconect the tables, the power supply light was on but the wheel was not powering on until it randomly just turned on and works now
My shaft ... ahhgemm.. on my CSL Elite is loose :/ I had to tie a shoelace extremely tight around it but it still wiggles loose after awhile ... no idea how to fix it permanently, seems like the plastic is just worn out and won't keep the wheel tight anymore
@@btdubs03 Darn. That really sucks. I would assume you got a dud or something. Did you try getting it returned on the warranty? (Too late now but back when you noticed the problem)
@@OneRedKraken well I was able to fix it like the guy said in this video but it’s tiring to keep on doing it for something that’s this expensive. So I told them about it when it happened the other day and currently waiting for a response
@@GitGudRacing LOL, keep up the humour seems more people need a laugh than ever these days. and thanks for the videos my DD is starting to play up only a month old. any tips for Formular v2 wheel base shifter miss fire?
Yeah you too mate, I’d try first to open fanatec control pannel and see if the miss fire can be seen there as well - in order to be 100% sure there’s nothing else interfering (the game / other apps) - if you’re on PC just boot up and try that. If its still on warranty just do the RMA, otherwise I’d suggest the subredit Fanatec, i am sure there are some enthusiasts there who picked it apart and could point you in a direction in order to fix it yourself.
I noticed another "flaw" in the CSL DD wheelbase. When switched on and Idle I can hear a high pitched sound what sounds like an old 56 k modem making connection to the internet coming from inside of the wheelbase. When very slowly rotate the wheel you can feel that frequency as ffb. Also when usb cable is unplugged. Anybody noticed this or have the same issue? Is this normal?
@@GitGudRacing I am 100% sure it's coming from inside the wheelbase. It's like the base is getting a really light input signal making the motor or coil squeak. I noticed it with no ambient noise
@@GitGudRacing I was curious if this is normal. Performance wise nothing wrong but personally I don't expect this from a quality product. I will contact Fanatec and see what they say.
I had a similar issue when i got myn..i could feel a buzzing in the wheel even when not plugged into the computer. I went through the long rma process and my new base is fine. You might have a dud mate. Do you feel anything through the shaft?
I inspect my shaft all the time up and down and up, but after a few mins of messing with my shaft then this white lube comes out!!!!!!! how do you fix this!!!!!!!!!!!!!🤣🤣🤣🤣
@@GitGudRacing I know some people and streamers like @tiametmarduk who had to change his CSL elite 3 times for problems on disconecting cable all the time. Fanatec covered his garrantee 2 times and on 3rd time they sent him a rig and a DD2. He used to play on a Stand chaking all over the place. When he changes to a better rig the problem was over. Aparently on CSL DD cables (USB C) the problem can be even worst. so be careful.. Besides, you are losing a lot of feed back because of this shake's, and probably this is why you are having problems. I recomend something rigid like Simlab P1-x, belive me, really worths the money.
Thanks, however the rig is quite rigid, its made out of steel and did not have any issues at all with USB C cable. The only downsides are the adjustability, I cant set a perfect seating position. Will consider though the rig you mentioned, thx.
