I agree on the tire marks, looks like something I would love when I was 12. I got a CSL elite a while ago with the intent of having it as a backup wheel, and its surprisingly good in my opinion.
So far as I can see (maybe I am wrong) this is from a practical perspective the replacement for the old Xbox Elite wheel that I have with the differences only being cosmetic and the new quick release versus the old "oil filter wrench" method (my terminology). I am after a replacement for my five year old Elite because the alcantara is totally worn (and yes I wear gloves but all that means is that the glove wears the alcantara out as it does on real racing wheels with the same covering).
Yer Douglas the original quick release that comes with the wheel does have 4 longer and 2 shorter screws, also says in the quick guide which ones go where. Can't tell you exactly how long they are though as I just screwed them in, but from memory the short ones looked to be about 8/10mm thread length rather than the long screws that were about 16/18mm. Got a Clubsport QR on order so will be swapping them over when it arrives so I'll update this comment with exact measurements then. Cheers Andy
The display, when I first got mine I thought it was distracting too, however after a few hours I got used to it, in the Sims I use it usually displays gear and the rev indicator/ shift light. It is quite plasticky tho'.
Great video man! I’d probably go for the McLaren GT3 wheel myself because I’d be more of a formula 1 and GT racing fan in general and am a bit more competent at track racing (mainly F1 2020 and Assetto Corsa Competizione) as well, but I always end up spending a lot of time on Dirt Rally 2.0 and WRC9 just because it’s so fun to drive sometimes! Always driving as Craig Breen because I’m Irish 😂
Hey Finn, glad your checking out some more of my videos! Always appreciated! Knowing you are more of an F1 guy have you checked into the other lower priced Direct drive wheelbases from simagic, accuforce, VRS etc.? You might want to look into those because you won't get Formula quality FFB torque without getting into the 12nm+ range.
@@DouglasThompson That is actually interesting because if I’m being honest I didn’t really consider that I would need that much torque. I have looked at other manufacturers before but I never came across those companies surprisingly (although I didn’t go looking very hard for other manufacturers). The only big limitation that I may have is that I use my Xbox for my racing, because as you can understand €300 is much more affordable than a PC for someone like me who can’t afford to spend too much. I feel like my best next step is definitely to improve my wheel but do you know if any of those other brands would support Xbox? Thanks a lot for the feedback because I hadn’t really even considered those companies until you said so! (My ideal budget for wheel, base and pedals would be about €800 or $973 so I don’t really know where to go!)
@@DouglasThompson I was just looking at a few of the manufacturers you suggested and some are compatible with my Xbox. I am actually really thankful to you for sharing these to me because to be honest I wouldn’t of known and could of gotten sucked straight into Fanatec. I’m still interested to see how the CSL DD will perform as it does seem budget friendly but I will definitely be considering some other brands now. If I had to spend a little more for a considerable performance boost then it wouldn’t be too bad. Thank you!
The QR1 Lite isn't a bad quick release, it grips the shaft more than the regular QR1 and there's noticeably less movement or wobble on the shaft. I'm don't know for sure but would assume that it's lighter than the QR1 which if used on the CSL DD is going to pay dividends. Shifters are also pretty decent (altho' a magnetic shifter mod would be welcome) I'm not one for chopping and changing my wheel, I find one I like and stick with it, the CSL DD is replacing my TS-PC/F488 Challenge wheel, they're actually pretty similar altho' the F488 wheel has more buttons and rotary switches, the WRC has better shifter's but in other respects the wheels are very similar in construction and quality. This is a very comfortable wheel and is a decent size (300mm) and weighs in at around a kilo, it's perfect for the CSL DD 8Nm, a comfortable grip and works well with all classes of cars. The gear change indicator is ok, and the display displays gear or mph & possibly RPM (using the Fanalab software) If you want a reasonably priced round wheel and wear gloves while racing, I think this is a pleasant enough in use wheel, worthy of consideration. 2 years after filming, no sharp edges on 2 examples I've used, both purchased in the last 6 months. Agree 100% about the tyre tread decal, but it's not a toy, honest 😉
i may sound dumb here, im looking to buy my first sim rig, i want to get the wrc fanatec wheel, can i use this wheel for other games like assetto corsa ??????
Do you recommend this WRC Wheel or the new Fanatec GT Wheel (based on 918RSR) for driving rally at CSL DD with Boostkit? Losest weight better then everything else?
fanatec.com/us-en/steering-wheels/clubsport-steering-wheel-rs If this is what you are referring to, definitely get this over the WRC wheel. The wrc wheel is great for a budget and has awesome features but the clubsport series wheels are a huge step up in quality. I used the heavier bmw gt2 wheel with my CSL elite and it worked just fine. Both wheesl in question here are lighter than the BMW gt2 wheel so I'd say go for the one I linked if that's what you had your eyes on.
@@DouglasThompson Yes, that‘s the wheel I‘ve my eyes on. Many thanks for your clear advice as a rally driver. Although the RIM Design is on the market since 2013/14 there are not many comments in relationship drive Rally / drifting which can be found in the web. And in these comments it is mentioned that bumping the rev indicator can be really uncomfortable and thumbs can get cought in the recesses at 3 and 9 o‘clock. And the Wheel will be Slim and glitchy but my Hands are on the smaller Side (Gloves=9,5). What do you think - can this be issues or irrelevant with the right driving technic). In order to the only 8 Nm (Realitic Racing Car Simulation will begin with 12Nm I Heard) I thought the rim has to be as light as possible for the best Force Feedback specially in rally driving. Yes, this Wheel is the lightest ClubSport Wheel, With the same QR1 Adapter 300g over the WRC. But I dont know how the Settings relevate this. From your response I guess the fun and driving experience is not only based on that but justified in the better ClubSport line. Your advice is Important for me because you are active in rally driving. The Wheel is generally very high recommendet. Thank you very much, Douglas.
If anything gets caught on your hands or gloves during driving, that would definitely be a significant problem. I don't agree with people saying 12nm is the baseline for realistic ffb levels. It really depends on what cars you are trying to replicate and if they have power steering assistance or not. Rally cars specifically should not be hard to turn the wheel in any driving situation. Not only is a lot of the driving on loose surfaces which further makes a steering wheel easier to turn but with how quickly the drivers have to respond to surface changes and tight courses, it would be unrealistic to have too much ffb. Watch video of rally drivers when they lose power steering, that's the equivalent of what most people think is realistic ffb. That being said, having the extra headroom allows certain games to better replicate a cars handling after a crash and the power steering goes out or maybe a wheel and tire is missing etc.
Also to add, having a lighter weight wheel will definitely allow the wheelbase to work easier but not so much so it ruins the bases ability to perform well.
